This week in Postcard, Nichola Holgate-Smith recommends Dubrovnik, Croatia
For decades now, Spain’s Costa Del Sol, the Italian Riviera and the French Riviera were favourites of tourists seeking a beach haven to spend their summer days. But in recent years they have been joined by another contender; a real gem hidden among the shores of the Adriatic Ocean. Croatia captures the essence of both the Eastern and Western subcontinents of Europe. While the city of Dubrovnik (the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’) may not be the country’s capital, it definitely radiates culture and charm. Its historical beauty has been preserved, with medieval forts and commanding city walls still standing. Surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site in a city that provides a perfect break for sightseers, shoppers and sun-seekers alike.
My Favourite Place
Dubrovnik’s history is vast and complex: it is believed to have been founded in the seventh century on Laus, a rocky island that provided shelter for refugees from the nearby city of Epidaurum. Throughout the Middle Ages and beyond, it developed as a centre of trade between Europe and Asia but suffered a major economic crisis in shipping, and a catastrophic earthquake in 1667. So whether or not history is your forte, it’s difficult to avoid in this tremendous city, which has maintained its integrity in spite of these hardships. Many guides recommend perusing the medieval limestone city walls that really bring the city’s story to life. Standing at a metre thick and with four fortifications and 14 towers, they really are an impressive sight and also offer a stunning panorama of the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture of the city. Being the budding little adventurer that I am, I chose a more active method of exploring and hired a sea kayak to take in Dubrovnik’s awesome defence system. Not only could I appreciate the magnificence of this Croatian structure from the ocean, I could also keep cool in the Adriatic’s azure waters. We even paddled to Lokrum island – just 600m away from Dubrovnik’s coast – for a much-needed ice cream. The island is uninhabited although it is visited daily by tourists exploring the ruins of the monastery. You can also enjoy wandering among the peacocks in the botanical gardens and diping your feet in the waters. Our guide was not only an avid kayaker but was very knowledgeable on all the laws of the land (as well as being clued up on where to go and what to do from a local’s point of view).
Highlights
Not only does Dubrovnik offer its own beauty, but as a coastal port there are lots of opportunities to explore other parts of Croatia: the luscious, green national park on the island of Mljet, the pleasant harbour at Cavtat, the beaches of the Elaphiti Islands and the beautiful town of Ploče are all easily accessible on day trips. These can be organised through ticket offices just outside the walls of Dubrovnik’s Old Town at reasonable prices, thanks to the fact that Croatia has not adopted the euro and still uses its kuna currency. There is also the option to travel slightly farther afield to Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Lowlights
Dubrovnik is probably more popular with older tourists but the city appears to be embracing a wider demographic. Yet while the destination is still undergoing developments as a must-see holiday destination, lively, younger crowds may find it less to their liking than other Mediterranean hotspots.
Souvenirs
Many of Dubrovnik’s treats are made by local craftsmen. You’ll find leather workers crafting sandals and handbags, goldsmiths fashioning original jewellery for ladies and buttonholes for gents; the Dubrovnik goldsmiths Vierda, Kraljevic and Jurišic can all be recommended as they still make valuable jewellery using traditional methods.
Where to stay
As with many destinations, Dubrovnik offers an array of hotels from one to five stars. For myself and the six other women I was holidaying with, Hotel Lero was ideal. This midrange hotel was about a 15-minute walk from the Old Town. It had an extensive breakfast buffet and a swimming pool. For those who want a bit more luxury, Hotel Excelsior (five-star) and the Grand Villa Argentina (four-star) are among the most famous. Most accommodation is located outside of the city walls and you’ll find the small handful that are inside the Old Town more expensive.
Top five things to do:
1. Bike through the olive trees in the local countryside
2. Sea kayak around the city walls for some stunning views
3. Take a walking tour of the Old Town
4. Swim in the turquoise waters of the Dalmatian Coast
5. Visit the island of Lokrum