This week in Postcard, Marjorie Lopes recommends Ethiopia
Splendorous mountains cutting through lush National Park, centuries old medieval rock-hewn churches, diverse cultural manifestations and a vibrant atmosphere combining modernity and ancient customs; there are more than enough reasons to visit Ethiopia. My five-week long journey was divided between visiting the north, the east and the south and I spent the first three weeks following an itinerary often chosen by most travellers exploring the region, rightfully called the “Historical Route”. Ethiopia offers such a wide range of activities and opportunities to travellers, that choosing where to go can be a challenge of its own, and even more for those with a limited amount of time. Fortunately, I chose to take quite a few internal flights and managed to maximise my stay, seeing nearly everything I was hoping to, including the country’s vibrant capital, Addis Ababa; Bahir Dar, home of the Blue Nile Falls, Lake Tana and its and many ancient monasteries; the Simien Mountains National Park, home of the largest population of the very unique gelada monkeys, before finally reaching the ancient city of Axum, and its many obelisks from the ancient Aksumite civilisation. I continued towards Tigray, world famous for its rock-carved churches, but it wasn’t until I reached the dusty rural town of Lalibela that my jaw dropped in disbelief upon spotting one of Ethiopia’s best treasures, an astounding sacred site of 11 churches, each carved entirely out of a single block of granite, which are worth a visit to the country alone.
My favourite place:
Spending time breathing mountain fresh air on the top of the Simien Mountains could only really be topped by doing so while in the company of the gelada monkeys. These rare monkeys are well known and studied by researchers for having very different behaviour to other monkeys, and they are friendly and approachable. There were countless groups of monkeys everywhere we trekked, reaching altitudes of over 3,500 metres above sea level.
Highlights:
Visiting the rock-hewn churches of Tigray was a big highlight of this trip, not only for their remoteness and historical value, but for the challenge to get there. Some of them are so difficult to reach that many visitors require assistance, being pulled up by a rope at the most strenuous points. The Ethiopian cuisine was definitely another big highlight! Many traditional restaurants serve an array of the most exquisite food at tables in front of a stage, where visitors enjoy music and dance acts. Once the meal is finished, there is often a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony. Costs are very low, making such restaurants affordable to all ranges of travellers. Finally, observing the very religious Ethiopians making their way to church on a Sunday morning, all dressed in white, was a very inspiring sight to see. All around their many religious sites, ancient rites can be observed, and their devotion is captivating, even for people of different faiths or practices.
Lowlights:
The level of hassle coming from touts (trying to serve as drivers, tour guides or trying to sell something) was very high and almost constant. This, unfortunately, really does take away from the experience, as many visitors get tired of being constantly approached and treated as a “walking cash machine”. It is worth mentioning though, that the country is extremely safe. Travelling overland can be very time consuming as road conditions leave a lot to be desired. Internal flights are affordable and highly recommended to save time.
Souvenirs:
Coffee, coffee and more coffee. It is by far the best thing to be purchased in Ethiopia. The Harar coffee brand is the most famous of them all, and can be easily purchased from most hotels or souvenir shops. Textiles such as linen dresses and cotton scarves are also very popular items often sold at most shops as well.
Where to stay:
The Gheralta Lodge in Hawzen (near some of the rock church clusters), located in the heart of the Historical Circuit in Tigray, is such an incredible lodge that visitors make reservations months in advance. Surrounded by mountains, the peaceful environment provides high quality standards for very affordable rates when compared to similar properties in other parts of the world. Another top spot is the Simien Lodge, the highest hotel in Africa, located at 3,260 metres above sea level, surrounded by wildlife and awe-inspiring scenery.
Top five things to do:
Explore the UNESCO World Heritage Sites at Lalibela
Haggle at some of Africa’s largest outdoor markets
Sample some of the many delicious dishes at an Ethiopian restaurant
Visit the Blue Nile Falls
Venture into the Simien Mountains for amazing hiking opportunities