THE CONSTANT DEMAND for the “next best thing” in skin care keeps researchers on a never-ending quest for new products and treatments to restore skin to its youthful state. Science and technology have become invaluable in the development of active skin care ingredients, with plant-derived stem cells as leaders in this cutting-edge market.
Before addressing plant stem cells, we must first address the role that our own stem cells play in the skin. Stem cells are the cells from which all animal, human and plant life are born. Cutaneous stem cells reside in the basal layer of the skin and are responsible for healing wounds and the renewal and regeneration of skin. When a stem cell divides, the daughter cells have the potential to remain a stem cell or to differentiate into progenitor cells, with a more specialized function.
COSMETIC STARS
The stem cells in our skin have a limited life expectancy due to DNA damage, aging and oxidative stress. Plant stem cells, on the other hand, have been shown to offer protection of our own stem cells in order to delay the natural aging process.
Why plant stem cells? - Plant stem cell technology represents a major advancement in regenerative and anti-aging skin care. Unlike human stem cells that can only differentiate into another type of cell, plant-derived stem cells are totipotent and have the ability to create an entirely new plant. Plant cells are an excellent source of active compounds, which possess versatile restorative properties, making them valuable for use in cosmetic formulations.
How are they obtained? - To harvest stem cells, companies wound a plant so that some of the cells around the wound revert into stem cells. This wound healing tissue is called a callus. Once harvested, the plant stem cell tissue is grown in a culture medium to obtain the active ingredients that are rich in the specific desired compounds.
The question most people ask is: “Which stem cells should you use to address which conditions?”
What are their unique attributes?
Products containing stem cells actually contain the growth factors and signaling molecules that have been extracted from the stem cells, not the whole stem cells themselves. These specialized extracts have substantial antioxidant activity and have been shown to help protect skin stem cells from UV-induced oxidative stress, inhibit inflammation, neutralize free radicals, reverse the effects of photoaging and more. The question most people ask is: “Which stem cells should you use to address which conditions?” Consider the following cosmetic superpowers…
1 — AN APPLE A DAY KEEPS THE WRINKLES AWAY
Mallus domestica fruit cell culture, better known as apple stem cells, was one of the first plant stem cells available on the market. Apple stem cells are extracted from a rare Swiss apple called Uttwiler Spätlauber, first recorded in the 18th century, well-known for its ability to be stored for long periods without shriveling. Malus domestica stem cells are rich in phytonutrients and proteins and have been studied for their potential benefit in improving the survival and replication of epidermal progenitor cells.
Benefits: Swiss apple stem cells have been clinically shown to improve wrinkles, protect against oxidative stress, prolong dermal fibroblast survival and improve DNA repair of the skin.
2 — BOOSTING UV PROTECTION
Vitis Vinifera fruit cell culture is sourced from a rare, red-flesh grape. While most varieties of red grapes have red skin with white flesh and juice, the rare grape cultivar of Gamay is one of the few varieties that have red flesh and also red juice. The redness of the flesh and juice is due to an extremely high anthocyanin content. Anthocyanins are powerful antioxidants and free radical scavengers. They are said to act as a “sunscreen” by absorbing UV radiation.
Benefits: Studies show grape stem cells help protect epidermal skin stem cells against the stresses caused by UV exposure, fight photoaging and help skin stem cells maintain the characteristics of stem cells.
3 — POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANTS
Leontopodium alpinum, derived from Alpine Edelweiss, is yet another stem cell powerhouse. Edelweiss is an herbaceous plant that grows spontaneously on mountain ranges from the Pyrenees and the Alps to the Himalayas. It is a rare and strictly protected plant. Edelweiss has developed many defensive mechanisms in order to survive the extreme heights and protect itself from a high level of exposure to solar radiation.
Benefits: Studies have discovered the presence of powerful antioxidants and other substances with anti-inflammatory and cytoprotective properties in the plant. Leontopodium alpinum stems have also been shown to inhibit hyaluronidase and collagenase, limiting collagen and hyaluronic acid degradation.
4 — GET YOUR BEAUTY SLEEP
Leucojum Aestivum is derived from the Summer Snowflake Flower. This flower has developed the ability to survive in extreme climates. Flower bulbs go dormant through the winter (like the ultimate “beauty sleep”) and awaken or blossom in the spring.
Benefits: In clinical studies, Snowflake Flower stem cells have been shown to slow aging by slowing cell proliferation. Snowflake Flower stems also boast skin lightening abilities by decreasing melanocyte proliferation and melanin synthesis. Unique to these stem cells is the Botox-like effect on muscle contractions, allowing them to smooth the skin and reducing wrinkles by relaxing muscle cells.
5 — DERMAL REJUVENATION
Argania Spinosa (Argan) stem cells are derived from the Argan tree. This tree can grow up to 24 to 30 feet high, lives for 150 to 200 years and belongs to the oldest species in the world, which is about 80 million years old. Argan trees are able to resist extreme droughts and withstand very high temperatures exceeding 122°F. During prolonged droughts, the trees dry out and can remain in a state of dormancy for several years. When the humidity level rises and the conditions are favorable, the tree suddenly returns to life.
Benefits: Argan stem cells penetrate into the dermal papilla, where the dermal stem cell pool is located at the base of the hair follicle. These stem cells have been shown to help increase collagen and elastin production by stimulating dermal stem cell turnover. They also combat chronological aging, fight wrinkles and help prevent loss of skin firmness.
Are plant stem cells the future of skin care? - The use of plant-derived stem cells is not limited to spas. It has also become popular in esthetic medicine and anti-aging procedures. These superhero ingredients allow practitioners to create noticeable changes when it comes to increasing volume, healing wounds and addressing wrinkles, pigmentation and rosacea — without adding to the potential risks some procedures can pose.
Stem cell technology is perpetually evolving. In the future scientists may reach a point where cosmeceuticals actually replace damaged skin cells rather than just repair them. With ongoing research and development it is clear that these types of extracts will continue to play a key role in future skin care formulations.
By developing a greater understanding of today’s advanced product formulations and ingredient mechanisms of action, especially those that include plant stem cells, physicians and skin care professionals alike will be better able to prescribe comprehensive skin care regimens in order to provide the best possible solutions for each patient.
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