We finally decided to do it. We’re bringing you a list of our favorite 100 watches that we believe are worthy of your attention. Presented in a three-part series in alphabetical order and hand-picked by J.A. Shapira, this is the ultimate compilation of timepieces and one that we hope you’ll thoroughly enjoy. Of course, such a list will create positive and negative feedback but as gentlemen it is fun to discuss these things.
We’ve presented the top low budget, medium budget and high budget watches worth their salt. Now we’ve compiled the ultimate list. All price ranges, from all regions and from a wide variety of manufacturers. You may notice some manufacturers receive multiple mentions, but it’s only because they’re just that good. You might also see your favorite watch didn’t make the cut. That’s not to suggest that it’s inferior by any means, but out of thousands of timepieces produced, it is actually a relatively difficult task to narrow it down to what we believe are the top hundred.
The Top One Hundred (in alphabetical order)
A. Favre & Fils Phoenix 10.1
1. A. Favre & Fils Phoenix 10.1
Priced between CHF 35,000 and CHF 40,000, This manual wind timepiece from A. Favre & Fils offers a significantly longer power reserve at a full 84 hours which blows most of the competition out of the water. The movement is an in-house caliber DB1334/1 with a dial featuring a new date indicator that’s large and easy to read with a contemporary appeal that still retains elegance. The movement is breathtakingly beautiful and despite being a relatively young brand (don’t let the name fool you), they’ve managed to achieve an artistic appeal that drips of old world charm. Overall, it’s an exceptional timepiece and well worth the price tag.
A. Lange & Sohne Double Split
2. A. Lange & Sohne Double Split
Priced at just under 100,000 euros, this flyback chronograph is an industry first with its double-rattrapante chronograph that’s superlatively executed with style and grace. The movement is extraordinary and despite its sporty appearance, the watch is slim enough that it passes the cuff test and has just enough elegance to work as a dress watch when your Calatrava is in for cleaning. An absolute gem of a timepiece, the proprietary L001.1 movement is exacting with only one flaw: the power reserve is just a little too basic for the price. Click here to read more about A. Lange & Sohne.
3. A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph
One of my favorite models to come from the pinnacle of German watchmakers, the 1815 Chronograph is a testament to everything good that comes with a timer. Priced right around 35,000 euros based on the model, it features the in-house L951.5 movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It’s very classic appearance is perfectly balanced with the sportiness of a chronograph, and it’s an absolute pleasure to operate with its soft push buttons. The only drawback to the watch is A. Lange’s far-too-often small crown that is tough for those with larger hands to operate.
A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite”
4. A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite”
One of the most innovative timepieces from the manufacturer and certainly my favorite, the Pour Le Merite is a testament to all things holy in horology. The constant force with fusee and chain gives the wearer an exact understanding of the time. More precise than the standard tourbillon, the watch can maintain impeccable time throughout its reserve. The biggest innovation of the watch is arguably its stop-seconds and zero-reset function but in reality the entire watch is a masterpiece both inside and out. The only negatives are the short 36-hour power reserve and the unfortunate lack of inward angles that one expects on a timepiece in this price category. Priced right around 150,000 euros for the rose gold model, it’s a perfect addition to any collection.
5. A. Lange & Sohne Lange I Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Handwerkskunst”
Short of a Sky Moon Tourbillon, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful timepiece and at just 250,000 euros, this watch is outstanding. It features the complicated L082.1 movement with multiple complications including moon phase, a retrograde tourbillon, day/night, large date indicator, a perpetual calendar, and stop-seconds. My favorite part of this watch is despite the complications; each indicator is very easy to read. There’s no overlapping of the indicators and A. Lange took its classic German humility and finally gave us a watch that hides the tourbillon. It’s a limited edition timepiece in platinum and offers a breathtaking movement design. If I had to pick just one drawback, it would be that it’s impossible to read at night and that the calendar ‘s hard to adjust.
6. A. Lange & Sohne Datograph “Up/Down”
It’s unique design is what really differentiates it from the 1815 Up/Down. It’s like moving from a Toyota into a Lexus. Everything we love about the 1815 was just made that much better. At right around 50,000 euros, this timepiece is a little larger than one might expect but offers a clean and elegant look for a large date chronograph. Slightly overpriced, it’s still worth its weight in gold due to the L951.6 movement and ease of use.
A. Lange & Sohne Lange I
7. A. Lange & Sohne Lange I
Arguably one of the most popular models produced by the manufacturer, the Lange I is a timepiece that’s as close to perfection as you’re going to get. Well priced between 25,000 and 35,000 euros, the watch is available in platinum, and yellow or rose gold. The 38mm timepiece is a quintessential dress watch with that contemporary Eastern European flair. The new models have a larger balance wheel than the predecessor (which in my opinion was a better watch) and gives a more accurate reading. The only issue I really have with the Lange I is that they need to move the time indicator to the other side of the watch since it will almost always require a lift of the cuff to see it. Overall, an exemplary timepiece.
Andreas Strehler Sauterelle a Lune eternelle
8. Andreas Strehler Sauterelle a Lune eternelle
Priced right around CHF 90,000, this timepiece is known for having the most accurate moon phase indicator of any watch. It’s constant force in combination with it allows the manufacturer bragging rights to just one day of deviation every 2 million+ years. Unlike the Lange I listed above, Andreas Strehler was smart and placed the time indicator on the right side of the timepiece making it easy to read at a glance. The biggest selling point of the watch is that every single one is handmade by Andreas Strehler himself. If you have the chance to pick up one of these limited edition watches, don’t hesitate. Take out a second mortgage if you must.
Andreas Strehler Papillon
9. Andreas Strehler Papillon
An artistic masterpiece, the Papillon is another watch handcrafted by Andreas Strehler. The inward angles of the movement are delicate and divine. The movement is crisp and accurate and the watch’s unusually elegant butterfly appearance is elegant and one that continues to draw the eyes of admirers. Available in limited quantities, it’s priced right around 110,000 euro.
Antoine Martin Slow Runner
10. Antoine Martin Slow Runner
It’s oversized balance wheel beats low and beautiful, it’s aesthetic appeal is unparalleled and the price is almost too low at a starting rate of just CHF 18,000. Slightly large for my liking at 42mm, the watch is slightly bulky but is more of a show than a watch. You’ll be mesmerized at first glance and you won’t be able to turn away. In fact, it might be more dangerous to drive with this watch than with your cellphone. Be forewarned.
Armin Strom One Week Collection
11. Armin Strom One Week Collection
Like a window to heaven, the partially skeletonized dial offers a glimpse into the architecture and artistry of the ARM09 movement within. Like a perfected aria, the beauty of this timepiece is magnetic. As elegant as the movement is, the case is a little chunky giving that retro appeal. Priced between CHF 22,000 and 32,000, the only big drawback is that the watch deserves to come with a nicer strap.
Artisan d’Horlogerie d’Art Voutilainen Vingt-8
12. Artisan d’Horlogerie d’Art Voutilainen Vingt-8
As rare as beluga caviar, as revered as a Rolls Royce, this timepiece is about as superlative as it gets. What’s exceptionally unique and attractive about this offering is that despite it’s complicated architecture, it’s capable of being serviced by any watchmaker worth their salt. The movement is exception, the aesthetics unsurpassed. It’s one of those watches you’ll want to lock away in a vault if you ever have the opportunity to acquire one. Reasonably priced at just under CHF 80,000, it’s worth every penny.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo
13. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo
In the spirit of full disclosure, I have to admit that I’ve never been a fan of the Royal Oaks. I’ll be honest; I think they’re ugly. I won’t sugar coat it. They’re clunky, their too funky and they are far too often embellished with diamonds and worn in music videos by rappers downing Cristal and talking about women in ways my wife would slap me for if I even ever thought it. Aside from that, the reason this watch made the list is because, all things considered, it is a remarkable innovative timepiece. It has the industry’s slimmest automatic movement with a central rotor and it’s the movement that’s made this watch a coveted timepiece for collectors. Most men consider this a versatile watch that can be paired with any attire. We disagree. This is not a dress watch and despite rumors it can’t withstand water either. But in our opinion, if you’re wearing chinos and a polo to the movies, this watch is as perfect as it gets and it’s one that’s iconic and will absolutely get you noticed.
14. Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars “Jumping Hours Repetition”
One of the most classic and elegant timepieces produced by Audemars Piguet, it’s undeniable proof why AP is considered a member of the holy trinity of watchmakers. Stunning aesthetics blended with a world-class proprietary movement, the jumping hours repetition is brilliant in all ways. One of my favorite features is the repeaters ability to be used as an auxiliary time zone making it perfect for jet-setters. Priced right between CHF 265,000 and 285,000, this timepiece is a steal for what you’re getting.
Badollet Ivresse
15. Badollet Ivresse
It curves around your wrist like a bracelet and has an ultra modern movement with a contemporary, yet graceful appearance. Gracefully curved, the movement is designed by David Candaux as a rectangle to perfectly fit within the case and is truly a masterpiece. Priced at 188,000 euros, this elegant timepiece is the perfect statement for the dot-com billionaire.
16. Blacksand Stratographe
Designed by Frederic Garinaud who is the brain behind the Harry Winston OPVS8, this timepiece, respectably priced at under CHF 40,000, houses a custom integrated column-wheel mono-pusher chronograph and offers the owner the unique opportunity to select between a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. An excellent selection for any gentleman, the one drawback is it’s exceptionally bulky case measuring in at 46mm. However, despite that, it’s still surprisingly comfortable on a larger wrist.
17. Blancpain 50 Fathoms “X Fathoms”
Forget the standard Submariner and Seamaster by Rolex and Omega, the X Fathoms by Blancpain is arguably the most eligible dive watch for deep sea, unchartered waters-style dives. The decompression valve is easy to use, it offers a double depth gauge and a retrograde five minute sub-counter. Easy to read with maximum depth memory, it’s only downfall is that the advertised ‘orange’ glow disappears after the fifty-foot mark. However, if you plan to go past fifty feet, it’s probably worth your while to bring a flashlight because otherwise the only light you’re going to see is a bright one after you get lost or eaten. And we really don’t want that. After all, it would mean one less ‘Like’ on Facebook for us. By the way, follow us on Facebook.
Bovet Dimier Recital 12
18. Bovet Dimier Recital 12
In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful timepieces on the market. A limited edition, it’s priced reasonably at CHF 38,000. It is arguably the most coveted watch ever produced by Bovet and it’s not just because of it’s stunning aesthetics. Bovet must have realized they were lacking compared to their competition and upped their game by introducing this masterpiece. A manual seven day movement, it uses the in-house Virtuoso 2 movement. There are a few negatives but none that really affect the value or collectability of this timepiece. Overall, it’s not just the best watch from Bovet, but one of the best watches produced by any brand, ever.
19. Breguet Classique Chronométrie
This is one of those watches that Breguet should be charging double for. Priced far too low at under CHF 35,000, it’s a stunning piece of horological ingenuity. The in-house 574DR movement gives the watch an exceptional drive. It’s silicon double hairspring, magnetic pivot and design make it worthy of any collector’s attention and it’s one watch that should certainly be a favorite of yours.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Messidor
20. Breguet Classique Tourbillon Messidor
My favorite Breguet timepiece, the skeleton dial is what every other watchmaker should strive for. Undeniably beautiful with a movement that matches if not exceeds its aesthetic appeal, this timepiece is a true collectible for the aficionado. Priced right under CHF 275,000 for the rose gold model, this is probably one of my top ten favorite watches on this list.
21. Bvlgari Daniel Roth Grande Sonnerie Quantieme Perpetual
For whatever reason, many collectors tend to look down at Bvlgari. Granted some of their watches are an insult to horology, this particular timepiece is easily one of the finest wristwatches on the market. Priced respectably at CHF 980,000, the in-house movement offers separate power reserves for the movement and the Sonnerie. Worth noting, is that the Westminster Grande Sonnerie is the the most difficult complication to produce and Bvlgari has done it so well it seems effortless. The automatic perpetual movement uses a tourbillon for added precision and makes this timepiece worth the almost million dollar price tag. On top of that it’s spectacularly beautiful.
Cabestan Trapezium
22. Cabestan Trapezium
You’ll either love it or hate it but the Trapezium is an architectural masterpiece. Surprisingly readable, the timepiece uses two separate crowns for winding and setting and is a style statement that can only be worn by the few who can pull it off. Priced just under CHF 190,000, the Trapezium is one of the most unique offerings to hit the market this century.
Cartier Rotonde Repetition Minutes Tourbillon Volant
23. Cartier Rotonde Repetition Minutes Tourbillon Volant
Many might be upset or disheartened that I didn’t include the Tank on this list. Let’s face it, the Tank is one of the most quintessential luxury timepieces but it’s also fairly entry-level. It’s a wonderful watch, it just doesn’t deserve a place in the Top 100. However, this particular timepiece from Cartier certainly does. Priced at 238,000 euros, it features an AP Renaud & Papi 9402MC movement that uses a pusher rather than a slide to operate the repetition. It’s titanium case is ideal for the repeater and one that watch critics have been requesting for some time. The only downside is more of a personal irk and it’s that the watch bears the Geneve seal despite the movement being from Le Locle. Otherwise, it’s a brilliant piece and one worthy of any Top 100 list.
Chopard L.U.C. “Perpetual T”
24. Chopard L.U.C. “Perpetual T”
Another brand that receives similar cynicism like Bvlgari, Chopard has really stepped up the game with the L.U.C. Perpetual T. I personally think the Perpetual T is the most resplendent timepiece ever produced by Chopard but aside from its beauty, the reason it made this list is because of the quality of the movement and its unique offerings. A pairing of the tourbillon and perpetual calendar combined with the ability to set the watch backwards, makes the L.U.C. Perpetual T a standout from the crowd. Combine it’s finishes, movement and complications with undeniable beauty and Chopard has crafted a winning timepiece that can go head-to-head with any other horological masterpiece.
Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Real Moon Joure Rush Hour at the Moon
25. Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Real Moon Joure Rush Hour at the Moon
For the true stargazer, this ode-to-the-astronaut timepiece is an artistic expression with a true 3D moon phase complication. Adjusted using the crown, it’s a testament to state-of-the-art technology that’s brilliantly paired with old-world craftsmanship. Priced at just under CHF 50,000, this is a perfect timepiece for any astronaut that wants something more elegant than an Omega on his wrist. I just wouldn’t recommend taking it to space.
Christophe Claret Maestoso
26. Christophe Claret Maestoso
Priced between 178,000 CHF and 186,000 CHF, the Maestoso is a seductively impressive timepiece from the renowned manufacturer. With a proprietary DTC07 movement, it’s a relatively large watch at 44mm with a thickness of 13.59mm. The finishes on the timepiece are exemplary, and the constant force system that keeps it ticking is more efficient and maintains superior accuracy when compared to the tourbillon found in most watches at this price range. Unlike many watches at this price, the Maestoso deserves its tag and despite the lack of a power reserve indicator, we really can’t think of any other flaw in this magnificent timepiece.
Christophe Claret X-TREM-I Chocolate
27. Christophe Claret X-TREM-I Chocolate
Provocative, contemporary and stylish, the X-TREM-I is another Christophe Claret timepiece worthy of our power 100 list. The watch is stunning and priced reasonably between 268,000 CHF and 288,000. Using the FlyII movement, it uses magnetic spheres to give you an accurate reading of the time and is still easy-to-read at night. A new and inspiring way to tell time, the lateral indicators are a technological achievement in horology which is why this timepiece made our list.
Corum Ti-Bridge Power Reserve
28. Corum Ti-Bridge Power Reserve
Priced at just 16,388 CHF, this model from the Ti-Bridge series is our favorite of the bunch. Using Corum’s CO107 movement, the 42.5mm wristwatch is one of those rare timepieces we believe will be iconic over the next fifty years. The architecture is unique, and the finishes are breathtaking. The timepiece is different from many you’ll find on the market and because of its unique case, it is sure to be the opening to many conversations. At this price you really can’t go wrong and that’s why it made our list of the top 100 watches.
D. Dornbluth Sohn Regulator
29. D. Dornbluth & Sohn Regulator
One of the most reasonably priced timepieces in this list, the Regulator is priced at a mere 5,800 Euros. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have its own movement inside, but instead opted to use the ETA 6498 with a power reserve indicator that is a very nice feature for the movement. This watch is an ideal timepiece to give as a gift as they left room on the movement for an engraving that can be easily seen but isn’t in your face. The detailing is superb and the entire watch – including the movement finishes – is completed by hand. When we take into consideration the quality of the workmanship, the complications and the architecture, we begin to see that this is one timepiece most collectors would happily spend more than just the asking price on.
De Bethune Digitale
30. De Bethune Digitale
Priced just under 90,000 CHF, the only other watch that has ever produced a timepiece with three indicators on the same line is a pocket watch kept under lock and key at the Audemars Piguet Museum. This timepiece from De Bethune is truly a work of art. Never has such a simple dial captured attention like this. The aesthetics are dreamy, and the movement is extraordinary. With a moon phase on the back, this is a museum-quality timepiece that absolutely deserves a spot on this list for its ingenuity in design.
De Bethune DBS Tourbillon
31. De Bethune DBS Tourbillon
At 195,000 CHF, the DBS features the world’s lightest tourbillon cage at just 0.18gr. The timepiece is remarkable, and the quality of the workmanship and attention to detail is unsurpassed. Despite not being able to read the time in the dark, this watch is competitively priced and well worth the investment. It’s a horological marvel and one that deserves your utmost respect.
32. DeMonaco Quantieme Perpetual
Most watch collectors know the hassle of having to change between functions and that’s why Ateliers DeMonaco created this perpetual timepiece that changes between time – date- day – week – month – and year with a simple push of the crown. Once the wearer has selected the desired function, they can turn the grown to adjust it. The ease of use is unparalleled. A limited run of just 88 pieces, this perpetual calendar, is patented and created in-house. A highlight at BaselWorld, it’s available in 18k rose or white gold as well as in titanium.
FP Journe Octa Calendrier
33. F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier
Priced fairly between 47,565 CHF and 100,650, this 120-hour automatic features the in-house 1300.3 movement. Despite being a complication, the watch has no correctors on the case and like the timepiece above is managed using the crown. The watch breathes an air of sophistication and uses windows and a retrograde to showcase the annual calendar. The one drawback is that because of this method of showcasing information, the timepiece is difficult to travel with as you can’t reverse the calendar if traveling westbound.
FP Journe Octa Perpetuelle
34. F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle
In our opinion, this is one timepiece that should be priced higher. At just 65,000 CHF, the Perpetuelle uses the same movement as the Calendrier. Made from titanium, this is a limited edition run of just 99 pieces that features an innovative leap year indicator to set it apart. The vast majority of the calendar information is showcased in its series of windows, and the craftsmanship and architecture of the watch is exquisite. Unfortunately, like the watch listed above, it is also difficult to travel with, especially when heading west.
Frederique Constant Manufacture Heart Beat
35. Frederique Constant Manufacture Heart Beat
Like most timepieces from Frederique Constant, this watch is very reasonably priced and starts at just 4,950 Euros to buy. Powered by the FC-945 engine, Frederique Constant uses its proprietary heart beat to keep the watch accurate. The innovative movement with silicium escape is what truly sets this watch apart. When combined with the low price, it’s not hard to see why this new watchmaker deserves a spot on our list.
36. Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement
Masculine and yet still refined, the Constant Escapement comes it at around 115,000 CHF. One of the most innovative watches to come from GP, they created a movement that uses constant torque on the balance wheel without the use of a tourbillon. The watch is exceptionally large at 48mm, yet maintains its consistency throughout all its proportions. In other words, this isn’t a watch for men with slight wrists and small hands.
Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
37. Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
Starting at just 20,750 Euros, this is a highly praised timepiece featuring Glashutte’s in-house chronometer movement with a zero-reset seconds hand. The zero-reset works by pulling the crown which sets the seconds to 60 and the minute hand at the exact minute marker. The architecture of this watch is beautiful, and the finish on the dial is truly remarkable which is why this watch deserves its spot on our top 100 list.
38. Grand Seiko Diashock “130th Anniversary”
There are a few different models ranging from a relatively quintessential dress watch to one model that screams it’s a sport watch. A limited edition, the watch is one of the best bangs for your buck that you can find in today’s market. A solid collector’s piece, the simple dress versions of the watch offer a beautiful vintage appearance yet uses the most technologically advanced watchmaking inside the case. This is truly a watch worthy of any collection.
Greubel Forsey Quantieme Perpetual a Equation
39. Greubel Forsey Quantieme Perpetual a Equation
One of our top rated timepieces in this list, this GF watch comes priced at 670,000 CHF and is well worth every penny. The architecture and finishings on this watch are spectacular, and every complication is easy to read and takes little effort to adjust. This is arguably one of the finest watches ever released by Greubel Forsey. Unfortunately, they only make five a year.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain
40. Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes “Contemporain”
Another incredible piece from the renowned manufacturer, this watch comes priced at 410,000 CHF and yet again, is worth its price tag. The proprietary GF0Ic that powers it is nothing short of a horological masterpiece. What really sets this timepiece apart is its three-dimensional design that offers incredible depth and beautiful lines. The tourbillon is well made and prolific in this watch’s design and with luminous material on the hands, it’s easy to read at night. The only unfortunate flaw is the thickness of the watch because of the angle of the tourbillon.
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30 Degrees Technique
41. Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30 Degrees Technique
With a starting price of just 510,000 CHF, this timepiece is another masterpiece from Greubel Forsey. Distinctive and robust, it is soundly perfect in finish and design and offers an incredible dimension of depth and character. One of our top picks, the quality of this timepiece is exemplary, and it is one that will cause heads to turn as they see it walk by on your wrist.
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