We slept like two little babies on our first night. Perhaps it was due to the fact we were awake for over 24 hours. Or more likely it was due to the fact that we are both extremely lazy people and all that walking tired our bodies out. Doesn’t matter though because we woke up refreshed and full of energy.
At 7:30 in the morning, the sky was still a bit dark and the sun hadn’t fully risen. The days really are shorter in Paris!
Today’s agenda was light. A visit to Montparnasse Cimetière to see Danièle, and without the Porto I wanted to share with her. We would be meeting Jean Denis and Marie at the cemetery. I guess Bonaparte didn’t want them to know how truly twisted I am! He also most likely did not want me drinking Porto early in the day! Also on our agenda was to stop by Zazi Films to pick up some family paintings and the invite to the Avant Premiere of “Demain Tout Commence”. And lastly, attending the film’s premiere later in the evening.
However, the most important and biggest must, was a morning trip to my mecca of skincare and beauty. My girly heaven. My favorite shop in Paris—CityPharma!
Armed with well-rested feet, two small cameras and a cell phone, we hit the pavement in search of….basically whatever came before us!
And today, armed with a trench coat over my blazer. This was my three-day uniform!
Our first stop was up the street to Rue Bonaparte and the corner of Rue Jacob. After all, we did need to fuel our bodies the way we load up our cars with gas or petrol! Funny thing, this walking around. For years—and I mean years, we passed by the bistrot on this corner of Rues Bonaparte and Jacob and never entered. We were always driving.
Elegant and discreetly decorated trees stood where customers would normally be seated during warmer months at Le Pré aux Clercs.
This morning would prove different and have us wondering just why we never stopped before. Le Pré aux Clercs is a charming place to stop and have a quick breakfast. We had café crème at the counter, and Bonaparte had his usual croissant. The service was great. The café crèmes were strong and the price was incredibly cheap. 3€ per cup. We were fully loaded and ready to take off.
Better than my beloved Starbucks, the cafe creme at Le Pre aux Clercs was delicious, strong and dirt cheap. Look how pretty the cup is. Look how lovely my morning beverage is served!
A sign of the cold weather –tables and chairs stacked indoors..
Lonely for now, but come summer these chairs will long to be back inside.
….and the cafe is beautifully embellished for Christmas!
The walk to City Pharma was easy and casual; and along the way we found some entertaining photo ops!
Is this not the most beautiful window display of all time? Proof that despite the tackiness of yesterdays Christmas Marche, true elegance is created in Paris! I am having this photo that I took blown up and framed!
A more creative window display at a gallery. When you have nothing to wear in Paris you go with the flow. I though the sculpture on the far left was a real person. I was willing to give her my coat!
I was moved to tears of joy when we spotted this on an exterior wall of a building off of Rue Bonaparte. Yet another reason to love the French! #jamaistrump
Laduree all dressed up in Christmas greenery!
A bustling scene…
A hotel named after guess who!
I love the way the shops are so elegantly decorated!
I also found two more Wallace Fountains! One was directly in front of the school that Bonaparte attended when growing up. When I asked him why he never mentioned there was a Wallace Fountain in front of the building he just shrugged and said “Eh. I nev-ahr no-ee-zt eet“.
I find it amazing that Bonaparte went to school at the site of this Wallace Fountain. But then again, Bonaparte doesn’t like water–he drinks only wine!
So much for the French being nonchalant!
This really IS “old school” in every way!
The second Wallace Fountain of the day was at Place Saint-Sulpice..
Attention to detail. Saint-Sulpice is being cleaned. Check out how clean the left-hand side of the church is compared to the middle.
More decorated trees on the street…
..and more. And I remain fascinated that nobody vandalizes them!
And as we made our way up Rue Bonaparte it came into view. My one and only important shopping venture. CityPharma!
Ladies. It is virtually impossible to NOT be able to find CityPharma. As all roads lead to Rome, in Paris–all roads lead to CityPharma!
Be still my heart. When I arrive at the corner of Rue Bonaparte and Rue du Four I become overwhelmed!
Those sly devils at CityPharna have little display bins at ever corner–temptation abound!
Aisles upon aisles of the best prices on all items skin care!
Look at this intelligent packaging. Open the box and instructions how to properly apply this cream! I want to marry this.
Some of my CityPharma haul. Bonaparte needed Advil because he had a headache from the throngs of women in CityPharma..
Look! Hot Toddy makings in a jar. I love this place!
At 4 euros, I’ve never seen Patchouli oil this inexpensive. At home, the cheapest I’ve seen it is ten bucks or more. You know I bought this–I love the scent of patchouli oil!
On the way out, I mentioned to Bonaparte that if I lived in Paris, I would be at CityPharma every day. The woman, who was on the line behind me, was also behind me when I said this. She nudged me, winked, smiled and was on her way. We understood each other!
We passed by Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Pres, last time we were here was for Daniele’s funeral. Looks like the church has started to be cleaned, the tower is nice and bright!
Our walk to Montparnasse was brisk—mostly because it was still rather cold. And I thanked the Lord that I wore a thick fake hair because it kept my head warm!
Say bonjour to my little French friend. I asked him his name and he looked at me, shrugged his little shoulders and said “Le Woof”.
We were to meet Jean Denis and Marie at the cimetiere at noon. And we arrived three minutes to so we sat on a sun-drenched bench while our French counterparts arrived exactly on time.
Resting my feet. Again. I would have died without these boots. They were both warm AND comfortable.
Off to see Danièle, and her husband, Yves Robert, the four of us walked merrily up the path that led to the graves. Oh..and I do mean merrily. We were laughing and remembering funny things about Daniéle rather than going to visit her in a somber and depressing way!
Jean Denis gave us buttons to place on his dad’s side of the grave. In remembrance of the film “La Guerre des Boutons” one of Yves Robert’s most famous movies.
This was also a chance for Bonaparte to visit with his favorite cousin, Zazi.
I need to say something here. You don’t know what fun is until you’ve gone to a French cimetière. Seriously. I am fully aware of those who seek intellectual stimulation by visiting the graves of really, really smart people like Jean-Paul Sartre. But after our visit with Danièle, we took on a more “joie de vivre” outlook at the resting place of the dead.
We went on a little tour of the headstone sculptures!
This is definitely museum quality sculpture. They just don’t make headstones like this anymore! (SMH)
I was a bit disappointed that the family of Andre Citroen didn’t have a headstone of a Citroen car to watch over their spirits!
“If there is paradise, paradise will exist only if I am welcomed there by my dogs and cats”. Proof that the Sigre family not only loved their pets, but they had a sense of humor as well!
I have no idea what this means….
..but I can tell you, hands down, THIS is the best cemetery sculpture of all time. All. Time.
I was so enamored and fascinated by Charles Pigeon’s family grave that I wanted to get in between Mr. and Mrs. P and cuddle with them. Oh if I lived in Paris, I would show up with some strong cleanser and make this grave spankin’ clean and sparkling! This deserves an award!
Living people come here to sit on a bench and enjoy a good book—or a bagged lunch to dine al fresco—or just to sit and reflect and even to enjoy the museum-quality sculptures that date back to 1824. In Paris and want to perfect your skill as a flaneur or flaneuse? Visit either Montparnasse or Père Lachaise cemetaries. They are pretty lively places and you won’t find any deadbeats—except those who’ve passed on—and most of them are pretty entertaining!
We spent many late afternoons at this gallery…
..the walls filled with various works of art and now it was our final closure–and that was a good thing!
After a couple of hours perusing the many artful headstones and family graves, we headed over to the Galerie Andre Girard. After Danièle’s death, it was decided to close the gallery. And seeing it empty was our last sign of closure. We came to terms that our future visits to Paris would be completely different with her passing. She gave us subtle signs that we really needed to move on.
Although not a Michelin star restaurant, this bistrot was a perfect place to enjoy lunch.
And move on we did! To a light lunch at “le Lithographe Bistrot” on Blvd . Raspail. Because we drank an enormous amount of wine the night before at Jean Denis’ and Marie’s, we passed on the red and went for regular tap water—which was fine. Bonaparte and I both had Croque Monsieurs. Marie had a quiche and salad, and Jean Denis ate ultra-light with a bit of cheese topped with honey—he was having a colonoscopy the next day! (Which was very successful—he’s in fine health!)
I happened to enjoy this Croque Monsieur because it wasn’t greasy. I’ll worry about my weight when I get home…
The quiche and salad looked very appetizing!
Even though I’m not a condiment person–and I cannot stand ketsup, I thought this was a much better presentation of the red stuff than a basic Heinz bottle.
More jolt fuel after lunch and we were ready to bust a move!
We discussed life in Paris vs. life in America, real estate and Hugo’s films. I don’t know what it is but whenever we are with Jean Denis and Marie we just have a really great time! If Bonaparte and I lived in Paris, I know we would be spending a lot of fun times with them!
Bonaparte’s feet were really cold at this point and he decided to cab it to the office of Zazi Films. A chance stroke of luck was found in the form of Yohan—the owner of the G-7 cab!! Young and very French looking with glasses and that hipster stubble, Bob Marley tunes were giving me a feeling of summertime! Bonaparte asked Yohan if he would mind waiting for us as we would not be long—we would be carrying paintings with us that would prove nearly impossible to walk with. Our cab waited and drove us back.
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