TUSCANY - LA DOLCE VITA
“I will have a few weeks off work in May, can we drive somewhere south with the van?”, asks my girlfriend out of the blue. “Yes, sure! Let’s go to Brittany”, I answer. “Brittany is west not south and anyway it’s too cold there.” “What about Ireland?” – no answer. Then she said, “I thought about somewhere like Italy. They have good wine, delicious food, ice-cream, Florence..” Hmmmmm, “and wind?”, I asked. “I am sure the wind is strong enough for me!”, she smiled back in answer. I realize I’ve lost this argument, probably before it even started.
Words Leon Jamaer //
Photos Franziska Doose & Leon Jamaer
This feature was originally published in the November/December 2016 issue.
Things go her way and a few weeks later we are crossing the Alps, a quick stop at Lake Garda and then further into the heart of Tuscany. At least the wind forecast is not as bad as I imagined; a storm is on its way and unbeknownst to my girlfriend I have brought my small sails. While we cruise in summer like weather through the curvy roads there is not much sign of any storm though. The stunning scenery invites us to do Cappuccino stops behind every road bend or to explore castle after castle. When it gets too hot we jump in one of the many streams to cool down. By late afternoon we arrive in Livorno at the Mediterranean Sea. The ocean’s surface is like a mirror and the water is amazingly clear – the calm before the storm. As it starts to get dark, black clouds appear on the horizon. Full of excitement for the coming day, I fall asleep.
The next morning the weather has changed, onshore winds have swirled the sea. During the next few hours the wind picks up further and within no time I am looking at solid but chaotic three to four metre waves. My first try is a spot right in Livorno called Tre Ponti. The locals are excited but the wind is too onshore to enjoy the wind and waves. After a short and rather disappointing session we drive further south. Along the coastal road, cars stop everywhere to photograph the exaggerated sea. Even though I couldn´t find a suitable spot yet, I am thankful my girlfriend took me here. A look at her face tells me I better not tell her so. My next try is a spot called Vada. And again the wind is almost dead onshore. It has got even windier and I doubt I can hold my smallest sail, a 4.2. Also the water colour is strangely white. Before I can spend any thought on that, Roberto, who has a surf school a few hundred meters north, speaks to me. He says the coast makes a little bend right where his school is. The problem is there is no parking so I would have to sail along the coast and around a little jetty to get there. All my hope is in his words so I trim the 4.2 as flat as possible and sail up the coast towards Lillatro. He was right, the coast does make a tiny bend, which is enough to create pretty decent Pozo-esque conditions – just with bigger and better waves. When I return completely exhausted to the beach, Roberto proudly shows me his surf school. “Many people leave their gear here as they mostly sail at this spot anyway”, he says. “And what about the water colour?”, I ask. “Ah, that is because of the run-off of the big factory. But it’s not too bad, we are in this water for decades already.”
The next day the wind has dropped quite a bit and turned further north too. Roberto sends me a message, “Today Marina de Cecina is the place to be!” By the time I arrive there are a few guys out already, enjoying the mellow 5.3 starboard-tack conditions. Not my favourite type of sailing but the atmosphere in front of the pine trees is great so I give it a go. I have a fun session but the wind drops even more and a few kilometres up the coast is a beautiful beginner spot where my girlfriend can practice beach starts and planing. More and more familiar faces appear on the beach. Most of them I have only seen a few times at the parking lot in Haagkat in South Africa, nonetheless, a moment later we are invited for dinner. The happy crew demonstrates how to live La Dolce Vita, the sweet life. Delicious meals and wine are served and stories of mystic down-the-line spots close by are told. I had never expected to be welcomed here so warmly as the parking separation of Germans and Italians at South African spots is rather strict. The guys explain where else we should go on our trip and which places we definitely need to see. First of all, we ought to spend the night at the beach and park our van right next to the surf school – “It’s the best place you can find!” They are right and I realize I haven´t really missed cold wind, Guinness or crepes since we hit the road. The remaining time of our stay we cruise up and down the coast, find remote bays for freeride sailing or swimming, explore ancient towns like Volterra, Bolgheri and Sienna or join the tourist crowd in Florence. By the time we drive back home I have understood that once in a while it can be good to listen to your girlfriend!
General Info
Getting there
The Tuscan coastline stretches roughly from La Spezia to Grosetto, which is 100 kilometres north of Rome. The easiest way to get there is by car. There are some great places like Lake Garda or Lake Comer to stop for a day or two while driving south. Italian roads are decent and most highways have an affordable toll. Coming through Switzerland, Austria and Italy you can plan for approximately 70€ per way. Once you are there it’s worth it to have your own car and all the freedom and mobility that comes with it. The Italian’s driving can be a bit hectic but as you are on holiday – relax! Of course you can also fly to the region with affordable charter airlines available.
Weather
The Tuscan spots have sailable conditions all year around. High-season is in July and August and not recommended for two reasons – first, almost all of Italy is on holiday which leads to crowded beaches and higher prices. Second, the steady Azores high-pressure, which is common in these months, blocks storms and allows normally only a light thermal breeze. If you bring bigger freeride sails than these thermal winds can be fun, although they hardly ever reach 20 knots. In summer water temperatures rise to 24 degrees and a shorty will do. The best combination of consistent wind, warm temperatures and empty beaches can be found from September to December and from March to June. During these periods the Tuscan coast is frequented by low-pressure systems and there is enough wind to plane more than 40 percent of the days. Good waves are more likely this time of year too. Water and air temperatures in October are around 20 degrees. The water temperature does not drop below 12 degrees the whole winter so it’s sailable with a good suit, booties and hood. ‘Scirocco’ wind from the southeast is quite common during this time of the year. ‘Scirocco’ wind will blow when low-pressure systems move in from the west. The wind normally comes with warm air and good waves. If the system moves a little bit further north, Italians call the resulting southwest to west wind ‘Libbecchio’, and is also associated with good waves. ‘Mistral’ winds from the west to northwest come from the south of France and can get stormy, especially during winter. As the wind often turns quite westerly, waves can be blocked by Corsica.
Living and camping
One can easily find a place to stay for any kind of budget. Apartments are best to find via the internet and especially in off-season there is a broad variety of options. A classier offering is the Agritourismo farms that carry all the charm of Tuscany with beautiful gardens and rustic interiors. Wild camping is not allowed and in high season a fine from 100-500€ is not uncommon. However, the region has plenty of official caravan parks. Here is a list of several camping sites close to the spots:
Viareggio: www.campingversiliamare.it
Marina de Pisa: www.campeggiointernazionale.com
Calambrone: www.camping-pineta.it; www.campingmareesole.it
Vada: www.campingtripesce.it; www.radatrusca.it; www.baiadelmarinaio.it; www.campingmolinoafuoco.com
Le Gorette: www.campingmareblu.com
Marina de Cecina: www.boccadicecina.it
Baratti: www.santalbinia.it
Perelli: www.pappasole.it
Punta Ala: www.campingpuntala.it
Centres
Normally you would want to bring you own gear so you are flexible in choosing the right spot for the day. However, there are several rental options.
Viareggio: Windsurfing Toskana (www.laversilia.it)
Calambrone: Oasi del Mare (www.oasidelmare.it)
Livorno: Centro Windsurf 3 Ponti (www.windsurflivorno.it)
Vada: Centro Windsurf Vada (www.centrowindsurfvada.it)
Le Gorette/Cecina: Spot1 (www.spot1.it)
Punta Ala: Punta Ala Water Sport (www.puntaalawatersport.it)
Shops
Vada Spot 1 (www.spot1.it)
Alternative program
Tuscany is culturally very diverse and offers a lot of possibilities to enjoy days off the water. Besides the stunning nature that can be explored by bike, foot or car, the cities attract a lot of tourists. Lucca, Florence, Sienna or Pisa are the highlights that you don´t want to miss. In one of the many museums you can find out all about the most important characters of the Renaissance like Leonardo da Vinci or Michelangelo. For foodies the Tuscan cuisne is a highlight itself: wine, cheese, ham and, of course, the beautiful olive oil.
Darksides
Crime is not that big of a deal in this region. Nonetheless, you should never leave valuables within the car. Furthermore, It is recommended to park in a paid and secured parking area just to be sure your car is still there when you come back from a great Pizza dinner.
Spots
Forte dei Marmi / Viareggio
From Forte dei Marmi to Viareggio stretches a long sandy beach in a north west to south east direction. During summer this area is populated by thousands of tourists and swimmers. Though, if you can find a parking lot and the water is free of people, the beach can be good for mellow wavesailing too. South to south west wind is side to side onshore. The further you drive south the more sideshore it gets. The cleanest waves are just north of the harbour in Viareggio. North west wind comes close to Forte dei Marmi more side shore and can also produce relaxed free ride conditions. Beach access is granted through a Bagni (private beach club) almost everywhere. Therefore infrastructure (Toilet,
Shower, Café) is normally decent.
Conditions – Wind: S-NNW, freeride, mellow waveriding, bump and jump.
Marina de Vecchiano
Marina de Vecchiano is located a little bit further off the beaten track and just north of the river Serchio. The access road is narrow and cars more than 1.90 metres are officially not allowed. During summer the spot gets busy with sunbathers and parking can get difficult. However, in off-season, you can have the beach almost to yourself. In all westerly wind directions small waves break along the beach, perfect for jumps. Straight south or north winds are side shore. The chilled atmosphere and steady winds also welcome free riders warmly. As there are no jetties you can cruise along the beach in a straight west wind and really enjoy the view. If the wind doesn´t show up at all, Pisa is just a few kilometres away.
Conditions – Wind: S-N (westerly sector), freeride, mellow waveriding, bump and jump.
Calambrone
Calambrone sits north of the industrial harbour of Livorno. Therefore, water quality is not the best. Because of the flat vegetation the wind is normally very steady. Even south east can be sailed; in strong south or south west it is time to unpack the wave board. The mellow waves break on sand. Calamvrone is mostly known for its relaxed beginner and free ride conditions. The windsurf, kite and catamaran school – Oasi del Mare – provides a good setup if you need a lesson or equipment.
Conditions – Wind: E-W, freeride, mellow waveriding.
Livorno / Tre Ponti
The city spot of Livorno, Tre Ponti, is located two kilometres south of the harbour. When you drive past the spot and the conditions are not there you would not expect that this little rock formation can live up to its name as a regional classic. Especially in Scirocco winds from south east to south, Tre Ponti turns on with side to side off conditions and powerful waves that peel over a rocky shelf. The water access is not that easy: ten metres from shore are shallow rocks that can only be passed through a tiny channel that is marked by buoys. Best is to ask locals for advice before you enter the water. You can park at the main street and rig on the green area next to the spot. Due to the obstacles within the water and the powerful waves, Tre Ponti attracts more experienced wave sailors.
Conditions – Wind: SE-S, waveriding, down-the-line.
Lillatro / Spiagge Bianche
The beach’s colour differs from the normal dark Tuscan beach: it is white! A soda factory’s run-off water has simply bleached the sand over the last decades. No one really knows if the discharge is an actual threat to humans. However, families, swimmers, surfers, kiters, windsurfers are all frequently coming here to enjoy the pristine conditions. On the north side of the bay towards Lillatro are several reef breaks that excel in north west wind. Rocks and surfers mean it is experienced riders only! Further south and into the bay the conditions are mellower. During summer thermal northwest conditions mean this area is frequented a lot. Strong south wind will produce nice port tack conditions. A lot of options for everyone, always worth checking out!
Conditions – Wind: S and NW, waveriding, freeride.
Vada
The surf spot Vada sits between the huge factory and the village and is known for its broad variety of conditions. North of the little jetty in front of the ‘Centro Kite-Windsurf Vada’ strong south to south west winds will create solid side to side onshore conditions. The further you travel north into the bay the smaller and mellower the waves get. Even when Vada is big it is still rather easy to sail as the beach runs smoothly underneath the surface. Between the jetty and the long pier, conditions are even more user friendly. All the big waves break far outside and in the inside the small waves that come through are ideal for freestyle or bump and jump. In thermal north west winds Vada is also great for free riding as the wind is a bit stronger than at other places. Vada is a regional classic and you will always find other windsurfers here, only parking is limited!
Conditions – Wind: N to S (westerly sector), waveriding, bump and jump, freestyle, freeride.
Le Gorette
Just a few kilometres south of Vada you will find Le Gorette with two different spots: North of the harbour is the surf station Spot 1 with easy conditions for beginners to advanced sailors in westerly winds. In stormy south west winds you need to drive a few kilometres further north to where nice side-shore conditions can be found. Le Gorette has it all: friendly atmosphere, beginner lessons, wave riding and a bar to buy beer for the sundowner. Parking is normally available for free; only in summer it can prove difficult and one might need to park behind the pine woods.
Conditions – Wind: SE to NNW (westerly sector), wave riding, bump and jump, beginner, freeride.
Marina de Cecina
Close to Le Gorette you will find Marina de Cecina just south of the harbour where the long beach begins to the south. When the wind turns to west or northwest Cecina offers starboard tack wave riding conditions with nice waves that break in between the jetties. Access can be a little difficult as the wind is gusty up front and the shore break can be solid too. Nonetheless, you can have a lot of fun on the water and after a session the restaurant La Capannina is a must: seafood or pizza with a sea view! It doesn´t get much better.
Conditions – Wind: W-NW, wave riding, bump and jump.
Baratti
The beautiful bay of Baratti offers superb beginner and freeride conditions. Southerly winds can be a little gusty as they come over the hills, on the other hand they smoothen the surface nicely. In strong north west to north winds Baratti can even produce decent starboard tack bump and jump conditions.
Conditions – Wind: E-S, WSW-NNW, freeride, bump and jump.
Perelli
Perelli is famous for its steady thermal summer winds and frequented mostly by freeriders. Although, if a low pressure system creates waves and the wind comes from the east, Perelli turns into a top wave spot. Corsica and Elba block some of the swell and normally the waves are smaller than up the coast. In strong south or south east wind it is too onshore to have fun here. In that case better to move to Carbonifeira where it can get good for jumping. Strong west is also good for starboard tack. A lot of options in this area!
Conditions – Wind: E-S, WSW-NNW, wave riding, bump and jump, freeride.
Follonica
Follonica is, like Perelli, known for its steady summer winds. North west is ideal for free riders as the water is smooth. Only swimmers and tourists can be distracting you from all the pleasure. In stronger winds it can also be a good place to get into wave riding.
Conditions – Wind: W-NW, freeride and wave.
Punta Ala
Punta Ala is a great place in all wind directions from south to north east. In northerly wind you should go further to the south and in southerly winds to the north to get the steadiest wind. The shallow water is ideal for beginners and learners. If the wind does not come through, Punta Ala is a great place to hang around in. Nature is all around you and if gets too hot, one can hide under the pines.
Conditions – Wind: S-NE, freeride.
“ Tuscany is culturally very diverse and offers a lot of possibilities to enjoy days off the water ”
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