Lots of people go gaga over the first sighting of ramps (aka wild leeks), and I'll admit, I'm right up there with the best of them (call me a ramp fanatic). But there's so much more to get excited about this time of year than the revered ramp. One vegetable in particular that I highly anticipate -- fresh spring fava beans.
When fava are young and fresh, they have a buttery, tender, melt-in-your-mouth quality to them. Later in the season, they can be dry and chalky (not so appealing). There's a short window in which to enjoy these guys (and perhaps this fleeting window is one aspect that makes them so special). Seek them out from late-April/early-March to May (possibly later, depending on the weather and where you live).
To reach the edible part of the fava, you must peel them not once, but twice. Yes, they are a bit labor intensive, which may deter some cooks out there. Do not be dissuaded; prepping fava requires a few easy steps: 1) first you peel the fava from their pod, 2) drop the shelled beans into a pot of boiling water for a couple minutes; transfer to an ice water bath to stop the cooking process, and 3) peel the thick light green skin around each bean (the fava should slide right out with a little pinch).
A tender, buttery, bright green bean awaits.
From there, fava are versatile. They are a welcome addition to salads, pasta, rice, or risotto. Mash or smash them into a dip or spread. Incorporate them into soups, stews (scafata), dumplings, this dish, or this one. No shortage of ways that fava can be enjoyed.
I stumbled upon this recipe from Yotam Ottelenghi (the aficionado of interesting salads, among other things) while looking for a new recipe that featured fava beans. This salad, a combination of wild and basmati rice, with plenty of herbs (dill, parsley, and mint), a nice amount of citrus (lemon and lime), and pistachios for crunch, would be a sublime addition to any spring meal or picnic. The mint and roasted (versus raw) pistachios were a couple of minor tweaks on my part.
Served this salad alongside sauteed garlic shrimp (with a sprinkling of smoked Spanish paprika) and a big bunch of (garlicky) sauteed lacinato kale to lunch guests last weekend. Simple and satisfying.
Fava beans can be cooked and peeled two days ahead; cover and chill. Wild and basmati rice can be cooked two days ahead; cover and chill. Once these ingredients are prepared and ready to go, the rest of the salad is a snap.
Rice Salad with Fava Beans and Pistachios
Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi
Serves 6
1/2 cup wild rice
sea salt
1 cup basmati rice
1 cup fresh shelled fava beans (from about 1 pound pods)
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup roasted pistachios
1/4 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
Cook the wild rice in a medium pot of boiling salted water until tender and grains start to split, 35 to 40 minutes. Drain. Let cool.
Combine the basmati rice and 1 1/2 cups water in a medium saucepan, season with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and fluff with a fork. Cover and let sit, about 5 minutes. Let cool.
Drop the shelled fava beans in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain. Transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain and peel.
Toss the wild rice, basmati rice, dill, parsley, mint, pistachios, olive oil, lemon zest and juice, lime zest, and fava beans in a large bowl. Season with sea salt.