2016-10-20

The Carney brothers, owners of Gemelli and Gemellini talk to us about meals from the family kitchen.

Nobby’s ‘Little Twin’, as the name means, is a more relaxed and intimate venue than its older more worldly-wise Broadbeach sibling.

Feeling fashionably well-established, the venue yawns back lazily from the street, a deep narrow space which stretches in past the bar and high-seat dining to more comfortable tables towards the back.

As tribute to its heritage, all eyes are drawn to the kitchen rather than the bar, the huge pizza oven vying for focal point with an overhead charcuterie cabinet holding legs of prosciutto that hang languidly from its roof.

Charcuterie cabinet holding legs of prosciutto



The 'specials board' makes it hard to choose which delicious dish to choose



Funghi Bianca, topped with Fior de latte, marinated mushrooms and white truffle oil



Bruschetta and Arrosticini

In a carefully age-adjusted venue, a modern take on the established Italian eateries of capital cities, the illuminated still life of hanging smallgoods is a stroke of brilliance. It’s a visual reminder that food is the priority here, accompanied by wine (rather than the other way around). You can even sit at the pressed metal fronted chef’s bar, watching the action in the kitchen.

Divided into Antipasti, Pizze, Pasta and Dulce, the one-page menu carries no grand surprises. Then again, it doesn’t set out to do that. It’s essentially a pizzeria, pimped up with the Italian regional favourites we’ve come to love, cooked from the brothers’ nonna’s recipes.

“This is the food we grew up with,” Paul tells us,

“meals from the family kitchen.”

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Approachable and not too fancy, it’s food freshly made with love. Here we see the place heritage holds in their hearts: arrosticini from Abruzzo (their grandparents’ birthplace), polenta topped with 8-hour-cooked Angus beef cheek ragu; magnificent arancini filled with asparagus, pea and reggiano, served with a piquant salsa verde…we could dine very well on the antipasti alone.

But as the aromas of Italy float out of the kitchen to bind our conversations together, we know that our lust for pizza must be satisfied. From the dozen or so pizzas on the menu, we choose the deceptively simple Funghi Bianca. Topped with Fior de latte, marinated mushrooms and white truffle oil, it’s an indulgent treat to share. The traditional creamy-topped pizza packed with flavour is perfectly matched with a smooth glass of Pizzini’s ‘Nonna Gisella’ Sangiovese from Victoria’s King Valley. It’s one of the Italian varietals on the carefully curated wine list, also featuring Australian grown Nebbiola and Montepulciano; the exception being Lombardy’s Bellavista Franciacorta, the Italian version of champagne.

With wine and pizza in hand, somehow the world seems a whole lot more grounded and wholesome. The couple beside us are tucking into a slow-cooked bolognese-topped pasta. We’ve chosen Spaghetti Pescatore, one of our favourite dishes, this version crammed with king prawns, fish, vongole and calamari, lightly dressed with olive oil and a touch of chilli.

There’s just a little room left for dessert. We skip over the inter-regional Ricotta and lemon tart to try Bomboloni – not the tiny ping pongs we’re expecting but great big fluffy balls of donut spilling over with a Nutella and mascarpone filling. Thankfully we share one! Even polishing off my half, I think I’ve died and gone to heaven. Absolutely breathtakingly yummo! Dripping down my fingers, around my mouth, not a drip of the chocolate goes to waste.

Arancini

Bomboloni, balls of donut spilling over with a Nutella and mascarpone filling.

Eating is a very personal, intimate experience, especially shared with the one we love, and Gemellini captures that spirit beautifully. Lowered black ceilings, dimmed lights, sexy leather apron-clad waiters, and delicious modern Italian favourites served with grace and style in a timeless setting… We’re whisked away to times past when extended families ate such a meal around communal tables, as we are enjoying it now. It’s the best type of comfort eating.

Our appetites and senses appeased, life is as it should be.

How could we not fall in love with Gemellini!

details

Located at 2247 Gold Coast Highway, Mermaid Beach.

For reservations phone 07 5575 1418

Open:

Wed – Sat 5pm – late

Sun 12 midday to 4pm, 6pm – 11pm,

Mon 5pm –11pm

Tuesdays, walk in’s only 6-9pm all you can eat pizza! $20

Note Gluten-free pizza is available upon request. Vegetarian dishes are clearly marked on the menu.

Gemellini delivery available Nobbys, Mermaid Beach, Mermaid Waters, Miami and Burleigh Heads

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