We’ve followed the hordes on a quest to find the holy grail of pizza. Not the biggest, nor the most top-heavy, not the most exotic, simply the most authentic, the highest ‘appellation’ of pizza: Napoletana.
It’s finally here… Queensland’s first true Neapolitan style pizza, accredited by Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN).
In July 2015 Double Zero in Broadbeach was accredited by Vera Pizza Napoletana Association as the very first pizzeria in Queensland serving the true Neapolitan style pizza.
Double Zero emanates a quiet European sophistication, mirroring the young owners themselves. Matthew Slivonik and Martina Jahodova are charming hosts, welcoming guests, knowledgeable yet humble about their achievements.
Surprisingly, the opening of their restaurant was part of a journey that began with disappointment. Coming to the Gold Coast to study at university, they found little traditional pizza here. To them, as Czechs who had often holidayed in Italy, thick crusts of dough laden with meat, cheese and pineapple did not comprise real ‘pizza’! Passionate about food, Matthew and Martina saw an opportunity to make pizza the way it has been made for centuries in Naples, the true home of pizza.
”Producing the right pizza comes from the heart… Real Neapolitan – style pizza is just a beautiful thing.” Johnny Di Francesco
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Double Zero has the feel of a working kitchen. Decked out by designer Jason Pate (whose other projects include Hellenika and The Fishouse) it’s elemental in wood and whitewashed bricks, mixed on a palette of earth and stone. It’s the white-tiled dome of the handmade Stefano Ferrara M 130 oven that oversees the restaurant, blessing its kitchen like a Madonna. Renowned throughout Europe over the past 150 years, the Ferrara is fired only by wood, building to the 400-degree heat essential to the making of a true Napoletana pizza. ‘Be true to your origins,’ it whispers, ‘true to who you are.’
Although pizza was first documented in 997AD, it was not until 1984 that the ‘Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana’ (True Neapolitan Pizza Association) was founded to protect and promote authentic Napoletana pizza. In December 2009, the ‘pizza napoletana’ was granted Traditional Specialty Guaranteed status by the European Union. Around the world, pizzerias strive to gain V.P.N. accreditation for their pizzas. Australia is no exception, yet there are only thirteen restaurants in Australia that have been granted that status.
“We opened Double Zero with the idea of getting accreditation. In May 2014 we started the process with Head Pizza Chef Nicola Masci, and now we have a second pizza chef, Fabio Rullo,” Matthew tells us.
“The process took over a year. We visited the master of Australian pizza, Chef Johnny Di Francesco, owner of ‘400 Gradi’ and ’90 Secondi’ in Melbourne, Captain of the Australian Pizza team and ranked 8th best pizza maker in the world, to learn the finer details of making a Pizza Napoletana.”
The first Australian to be Naples trained and inducted into the V.P.N., Di Francesco, familiarly known as the ‘Mr Pizza’ of Melbourne, was eager to pass on what he had learned. The association sets out the specific rules that must be followed to make an authentic Neapolitan pizza.
The base must be made from certified ‘00’ flour (hence the restaurant’s name ‘Double Zero’) to a specific recipe, hand kneaded (rather than rolled with a rolling pin), rested for a certain period of time. Using only San Marzano tomatoes grown in the only ‘DOP’ region on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius for topping, the pizza must be of specific dimensions and, (very importantly), be baked in a wood-fired domed oven at 400 degrees Celsius for no more than 90 seconds.
Certified ‘00’ flour and Costantini tomatoes
Pizza Chefs
Arancini Balls
Mushroom and Truffle Pizza
“Making pizza is a science,” Matthew tells us.
“And from the beginning we have crafted our pizzas as they would be made in Naples.
“It’s all about the quality of ingredients, and the attention to detail. Our Costantini tomatoes are already twice cooked. They’re expensive but their flavor is so important.
“We only use accredited ‘00’ flour, and our chef Nicola is an accredited pizzaoili! In fact, everyone who works in the kitchen is Italian,” he says.
We begin our dinner with a couple of regional Italian favourites as starters to share: Arancini with homemade Arrabiata sauce, and Vitello Tonnato (braised veal served cold with homemade tuna mayo, capers and gherkins).
You can accompany your meal with a drink from Double Zero’s bar, a place of both tradition and reinvention. There’s Pilsner Urquell, a Czech beer on tap, served in its own imported glasses, a concise but well-chosen range of Australian boutique wines, as well as lots of traditional Italian drinks on offer, complete with a modern twist! Barman Michael Kleinert, who trained in Phenomen, one of the best bars in Europe, concocts his own syrups and nectars to make some of the best cocktails in town! Check out the Rhubarb martini for an interesting take on a sweet sour combination.
Margherita Pizza
Then it’s onto the main event: a Margherita Verace, allegedly named after Queen Margherita of Italy. It’s the ‘little black dress’ of pizza, beautiful in its simplicity. Simply ripped apart and folded, as it would be eaten in Naples, the crust is light and a little chewy, subtly smoked in flavour from the red gum fire, melting and luscious in the centre. The sweetness of tomato and creamy saltiness of buffalo mozzarella are perfectly balanced on the palate, the base light and easy to digest because of its low yeast content. Simply delicious!
“The great thing about receiving the accreditation is that people know what to expect. It’s a seal of approval that says that we make pizza in the true Napoletana way. There’s consistency. Of course every pizzeria makes pizza in a slightly different way, but they’re all of the same standard. Japanese people are particularly passionate about their food, with many young Japanese chefs travelling to Napoli to be trained. Many people from Italy, the US and Japan seek out Vera Pizza Napoletana, and accreditation is booming!”
So, what’s next for the Double Zero team?
“In August we’re going to Napoli to meet the directors of the association. In September we will begin masterclasses for up to ten people on the first Saturday of every month,” he says.
“Nicola and Fabio will help the class make their own dough and pizza, they’ll enjoy eating the pizza they made for lunch, and we’ll talk about how they can make it at home.
“It’s a way that we can educate people about real pizza,” says Martina.
Double Zero’s accreditation as the first V.P.N. pizzeria in Queensland has been earned through hard work and respect for tradition. We’re reminded that it takes commitment, quality ingredients, knowledge, skill and an eye for detail to transform a simple dish into something great. Most of all, it takes passion! At Double Zero, there’s plenty of that!
Where: 2/2715 Gold Coast Highway, Broadbeach, Queensland 4218
Open: Lunch Sat & Sun: 12pm – 2.30pm; Dinner Sun – Thurs: 5.30pm – 10pm, Fri & Sat: 5.30pm – late
Contact: Ph: 5526 8635
Rhubarb martini
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