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My identify is Nick Black, and I am the founding father of PROTOS; the belief of my obsession with creating the ‘good’ automated dive watch. Initially from Scotland, I have been an avid watch collector (learn: geek) for years. Throughout a decade dwelling and dealing in Asia I added scuba diving to my listing of hobbies. I moved to Dubai in 2014 to be able to additional my coaching and expertise in diving, whereas pursuing my dream: creating the ‘perfect’ dive watch.
In each subject there are iconic designs that pervade the boundary of their class, and may affect common tradition for generations. Within the automotive world the Porsche 911 is an apparent instance. In furnishings design, we’d decide the Eames lounge chair. In males’s style, maybe the Burberry trench coat. On the planet of watches there are a number of key examples, from the Cartier Tank and the AP Royal Oak, proper by way of to the Casio G-SHOCK. For me, nevertheless, absolutely the benchmark in iconic watch design all the time goes again to the unique Rolex Submariners of the 1950’s. This type was perfected (in my humble opinion) with the 5510 reference from 1959, with its Massive Crown, 37mm case, pink triangle bezel, and gilt dial markings.
It was through the quest to supply myself an ideal instance of this watch that I made a decision to problem myself past merely satisfying an itch on my wrist, and as an alternative embark on a mission to create a contemporary and reasonably priced interpretation of an icon.
The truth was I might neither discover (nor it transpired, afford), my grail watch in something approaching good situation. What additional annoyed me was the extra check of discovering a up to date timepiece that emulated the easiest design elements of the unique watch reference I used to be pursuing.
I ought to qualify this with the disclaimer that there’s not at all a scarcity of top of the range, nicely executed micro-manufacturers on the market. Many implausible new watch manufacturers are persistently delivering wonderful watches in interesting designs. That stated, I discovered the market tendencies in the direction of bigger case sizes (virtually all the time 42mm or above), and trendy dial variations (the incorrect palms!… not these dial markings!), to be glitches that my Watch Fool Savant mind had problem overcoming.
On the similar time this drawback was tumbling round in my thoughts, I used to be working and dwelling in Shanghai, and it dawned on me that the answer was proper in entrance of me. In watch-geek phrases it was type of a calling. With my imaginative and prescient full the stage was set. I might design and construct the ‘good’ dive watch – and nail these features of the long-lasting Rolex reference, utilizing the easiest of recent supplies. And importantly, I might hold it beneath the candy spot worth of $500. This was purported to be enjoyable in any case!
I got down to produce a contemporary, solidly constructed automated dive watch that appears the best way it ought to. A wonderfully sized 40mm case, rated water-immune to 300m which you could truly use for diving, be it the stormy North Sea off the coast of Scotland, the sunny Maldives, and even your desk at work. A dive watch with a motion that you could set and overlook, and need not fear about. A grail watch we will all afford. The PROTOS Automated Dive Watch was born from this obsession and creating it has been my ardour undertaking since 2013. This journey has taken me throughout three continents and I’ve deliberate, sketched, perfected and now produced the ultimate watch.
After locking down the design parts (proper right down to the size of the Mercedes palms and the Pantone paint combine used to create the gilt patina impact), high quality turned my subsequent preoccupation. Many famend watch corporations (with pricing into the a number of hundreds), nonetheless use supplies which are frankly defunct and must be relegated to the historical past of watchmaking – aluminum bezels are a working example. Typically that is as a way to protect their differentiated product strains and keep away from cannibalizing their very own model gross sales. For me it was all about the perfect obtainable elements: ceramic bezels, domed sapphire crystals, prime grade 316L chrome steel. Swiss lume, maxi palms with metallic surrounds, and large crowns! Crucially, although the watch had an previous soul, it clearly needed to have a younger coronary heart! One thing dependable that required little or no upkeep. Rolex apart and actuality verify in place, I’ve all the time beloved and admired Seiko divers. For me they persistently tick so many packing containers – solidly made, strong automated motion, timeless designs. I made a decision on the Seiko caliber NH35a motion for PROTOS as an unseen tribute to what has been my every day watch model of selection through the years.
The germination of an concept has grown into an unbiased watch model. With a concentrate on utilizing trendy supplies to interpret basic iconic designs from the 1950’s and onwards, PROTOS goals to supply the highest quality dive watches in its worth bracket.
Making It Occur
Again in 2013 my analysis initially started as a pastime. Through the discovery course of I turned engrossed, deconstructing how the watch business operates. Why model mark ups have been so excessive when threerd celebration actions have been getting used, how a handful of key factories made watches for a number of manufacturers, the really worldwide nature of the watch provide chain. Exploring the place particular person elements truly got here from, I targeted on sourcing probably the most trendy spec supplies and was decided to get the small print proper. By stripping away layers of the availability chain and dealing direct with the supply, coupled with adopting a direct to shopper gross sales mannequin, I used to be additionally capable of scale back the beneficial retail worth (RRP) of the watch and cross financial savings onto the buyer with out sacrificing high quality requirements.
The journey hasn’t been straightforward. Working with factories in Asia is a irritating, time consuming, typically disheartening and sometimes fruitless expertise. One of many causes for the size of time it has taken me to convey the completed watch to market, is the necessity to repeat the identical product design and manufacturing cycle with a number of suppliers, till the proper companion can ship precisely the fitting product. Including a language barrier (I converse intermediate Mandarin, and 0 Japanese), to the truth that numerous comply with up is carried out lengthy distance by way of e-mail or telephone, you quickly develop a Zen Masters endurance.
My first ever prototype again in 2014 adopted months of design tweaks and manufacturing delays by a manufacturing unit, just for me to obtain a mediocre watch with “PPOTOS” on the dial! For sure I discovered from the expertise and did extra groundwork. At occasions, I needed to put the venture on maintain solely for lengthy durations, like once I relocated from China to Dubai, obtained married, modified corporations, making an attempt and dropping suppliers on the best way. These have been the unanticipated challenges of making an attempt to construct a micro-model from scratch.
Thankfully my persistence paid off. The result’s I now have full confidence in PROTOS, having partnered with confirmed, dependable producers skilled in watchmaking in China, Hong Kong and Japan. Every was chosen following three years of analysis and the aforementioned robust trial and error durations, solely turning into a associate after assembly strict prototype standards, a number of pattern supply, and high quality management for each single watch produced (we check each watch, some corporations solely check a pattern proportion of what’s produced).
Not all factories are created equal! My companions all function underneath exacting internationally accepted QC tips as they primarily export to EU and US markets. That is mirrored within the 12 months guarantee I present with each watch.
Finally, a $500 micro-model dive watch doesn’t compete immediately with a $5000 watch from a luxurious model. PROTOS just isn’t COSC licensed, your mates haven’t heard of it and you may’t go to your native AD and check out it on before you purchase. However then, this isn’t a watch to spice up your social standing from a model perspective. As an alternative, it should make you are feeling nice. And also you don’t must be valuable with it. This can be a software watch you possibly can put on with confidence. It’s solidly made. It seems to be the enterprise. There’s a tangible high quality to the general timepiece right here that permits it to compete with watches twice and even three occasions the worth. It seems to be excessive finish and feels costly.
Having got down to make my very own grail watch, I really feel like that is solely the start. What I can conclude having taken this primary step, is that I’m genuinely glad with the end result. I’ve been sporting the PROTOS for six weeks now and I adore it. It will get extra wrist time than my 114060 Submariner, and will get simply as many seems to be. The bezel glints and the crystal is flawless. The clicks on the bezel really feel superior. And that lume! Take a look at the lume pic on this article, it’s unimaginable. My private favourite contact might be probably the most polarizing for watch lovers: the gilt patina re-created on the dial and palms. To me, that is what makes the watch stand out from the gang, and I can’t cease glancing at my wrist. Certainly that’s the true check!
What’s Subsequent?
With the ultimate prototype full and having handed all design and efficiency necessities, I’m now elevating funds by way of Indiegogo to start the primary spherical of producing. The funds raised by the marketing campaign shall be used to buy uncooked supplies for the instances and bracelets, the crystals, watch elements and the watch actions. We will then lastly start manufacturing the primary full manufacturing run of watches and meet minimal amount necessities. Any further funds will probably be used to supply extra watches. If the funding aim is met on deadline we’ll begin delivery watches in early December.
That is the place you guys are available. As a lot as a platform to inform my story to love-minded watch fanatics, I’m additionally utilizing this discussion board as a name to motion! In case you share my ardour for classic dive watches, this can be a probability to help a brand new era of watches that salute the icons. Constructed to trendy requirements and designed to be worn day by day. I’m decided to make the perfect watch potential in its class, for all of us to take pleasure in.
Take a look at the specs under for extra particulars on the watch so you possibly can determine for your self. For an in-depth take a look at the specs please hit the Indiegogo hyperlink under.
SPECIFICATIONS
CASE SIZE: 40mm Diameter, 15.4mm Peak (together with case again and crystal), 20mm Lug Width, 47mm Lug-to-Lug
CASE MATERIAL: 316L Marine Grade Stainless Metal, Matte Brushed with Polished Sides, Strong Metal Case Again
DIAL: Matte Black, Utilized Maxi Hour Markers, Yellow Metallic Surrounds, Hand Utilized Lume
HANDS: Maxi Mercedes Arms, Yellow Metallic Surrounds, Hand Utilized Lume
CRYSTAL: Domed Sapphire, AR Coating on Inside
CROWN: 8mm Massive Crown with Embossed Emblem
BEZEL: Black Gloss Ceramic with Pink Triangle and Lume Pip at 12, Indented White Indices, Uni-Directional one hundred twenty Clicks
LUME: Swiss C3 SuperLuminova on Palms and Hour Markings and Bezel Pip
WATER RESISTANCE: Examined to one thousand ft / 300 Meters / 30 Atmospheres
MOVEMENT: NH35a Japanese Motion by Seiko
BRACELET: 316L Stainless Metal Oyster Fashion (20mm tapered to 16mm), Matte Brushed End, Polished Strong Finish Hyperlinks, Double Locking Security Clasp with Debossed Emblem
Wrist photographs on Instagram: @protoswatches
You possibly can pledge your help by backing Protos on Indiegogo, and Early Birds get the watch on their wrist for US$390 together with worldwide delivery. (RRP after that’s US$490). protos.watch
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