1/25
Shehla Chatoor by Shehla Chatoor
Karachi’s go-to designer for undiluted glamour, Chatoor admits to being inspired by history and different cultures. “My design ethos is buoyed by intensive research into historical or cultural milieus,” she says. Chatoor is known for creating vintage revivalist bridal collections. “I believe in creating bridals that are rich in history, timeless, heirloom-worthy but imbued with a modern-day aura.
Shehla Chatoor by Shehla Chatoor
My emphasis has always been to create bridal ensembles which can be deconstructed and paired as elegant and on-trend separates later on,” she says. For the upcoming season, she’s all about vibrant colours. “Think jewel tones of burgundy and emerald juxtaposed with champagne and ivory hues paired with our high quality craftsmanship.”
Contact: Info.shehlachatoor
@gmail.com
Fahad Hussayn by Fahad Hussayn
“When it comes to bridal couture, the piece must resonate with the bride even years later, never losing its appeal. I like my bridals to be over-detailed, to portray a certain exuberance of spirit. I believe that when you’re investing in expensive couture, it should be able to serve you for a lifetime,” says Hussayn.
Fahad Hussayn by Fahad Hussayn
He loves to work with brides who are open to ideas. “There’s an engineered fabric we’ve gotten made this time that lends itself to cut-work really well, which is what we’re incorporating into a lot of our bridals. We’re also offering two dupattas as opposed to the usual single piece to give women more room to play with the styling,” he adds.
Contact: 0092-3218448988
House of Kamiar Rokni by Kamiar Rokni, Rehan Bashir and Tia Noon
A triumvirate of pure genius, no discourse on Pakistani bridal couture is complete without mentioning Kamiar Rokni, Rehan Bashir and Tia Noon’s contributions. The trio is famous for not creating mood boards, thus eliminating any possibility of external influences seeping into their work.
House of Kamiar Rokni by Kamiar Rokni, Rehan Bashir and Tia Noon
“Our philosophy is an amalgamation of art, culture and imagination in apparel. We work with our rich legacy of craft, aiming to take it further,” says Rokni. Jackets seem to be their pick of the season, in varying lengths and silhouettes. Our bride “is interested in art and culture; we’d term her genteel. She’s not afraid to embrace colour,” he adds.
Contact: 0092-4235961055
Rano’s Heirlooms by Rano Usman
Aptly titled Heirlooms, Rano Usman’s creations are all about reviving old-world craft and reimagining a space for them in the modern world. Usman prides herself on bringing back techniques that the world seems to have forgotten, and for the longevity of her pieces. “Stay away from prevalent fashion trends.
Rano’s Heirlooms by Rano Usman
Dig deep into the roots and once you’re there, stay, inspire, revive and reinterpret,” she says. Each garment from her bridal collection can be worn as separates, a fact she is rather proud of. “Our bride possesses personal style and believes in the value of traditional craft.”
Contact: 0092-4235755914
Sana Safinaz by Sana Safinaz
Sana Safinaz is possibly Pakistan’s most popular fashion brand. Established by Sana Hashwani and Safinaz Muneer, the duo’s pieces are ageless. “Our design philosophy is to push beyond the traditional boundaries of bridal wear. We aim to strike a balance between timeless elegance and current trends,” says Muneer.
Sana Safinaz by Sana Safinaz
From their latest collection, expect heavily worked lehengas with bias cut shirts, cholis and dramatic floor-sweeping coats. “We are excited to see more structured silhouettes this year. As a result, the embroidery and embellishment will also evolve to accommodate these cuts and silhouettes that always go hand-in-hand.”
Sanasafinaz.com
Ammara Khan by Ammara Khan
Founded in 2002, Ammara Khan has dressed many well-heeled brides and is known for her delicate approach to design and a love for the ornate. “The women I dress have a strong sense of aesthetic, almost an artistic sensibility,” she says.
Ammara Khan by Ammara Khan
And what will she be dressing the country’s leading names in this year? “From bridal lehengas with short shirts and a modernised pishwas with Dhaka pajamas to a cropped, fully-worked pant suit, our bridal couture collection this year is as exciting and glamourous as always.”
Contact:0092-3008246305
HSY by Hassan Shehryar Yasin
Hassan Shehryar Yasin is larger than life. Whether you talk about the man himself or the empire he’s single-handedly created in the last two decades; no one can take away from HSY’s grandeur. “Glamorous, timeless and elegant. Like the women we design for. She has a strong sense of family and what she wears on her wedding represents where she’s coming from and also the direction she’s headed in her new life.”
HSY by Hassan Shehryar Yasin
For the season ahead, he’s looking West. “There are a lot of European influences ranging from Rome to Berlin but the aesthetic is still classically traditional. We’re working with some of the best fabric developers in Florence to create this lavish jacquard that’s going to be the hero this time.”
Hsystudio.com
Faraz Manan by Faraz Manan
Faraz Manan is known for his love of crystal embellishments. “Classic and glamorous yet slightly understated and experimental,” he says about his trademarks. “I take inspiration from travel, lifestyle, architecture, interiors and meeting new people. My forte lies in clever detailing of thread work, delicate embellishments, layering, cut, colour and fusion tailoring.” For the season ahead, he talks about playing with length.
Faraz Manan by Faraz Manan
“We’re doing a variety of knee- and floor-length jackets, embellished pearl and crystal work belts to add that extra punch, paired with some Western flair to create balance. Off- shoulders still reign supreme. Pastels are always elegant, so there’s going to be a lot of ice blues, nude pinks and blush.”
Farazmanan.com
Bunto Kazmi by Bunto Kazmi
Bunto Kazmi is in a class of her own, and is arguably the country’s boldface name when it comes to couture. Notoriously media-shy, dead-set against advertising and using traditional methods of showcasing her work, Kazmi has never produced seasonal collections. The couturier has been creating bridal wear for over four decades now, carrying forward her mother-in-law’s legacy. Everything that comes through her atelier is bespoke. From her fabric, which Kazmi commissions herself, to the stitches in her embroidery, it’s all customised and designed in-house. A puritan who is vocally against using crystals or sewn-on embellishment, she champions hand embroidery and classic craft, resulting in a waiting period of at least eight months, if not more. Her pieces are ornate, excruciatingly detailed and cannot be duplicated.
Contact:0092-134543906
Ali Xeeshan by Ali Xeeshan
Ali Xeeshan is known for his intrepid personality as much as he is for his clothes. Xeeshan approaches fashion with an irreverence that is refreshing and is reflected in his dramatic, instantly identifiable designs. His flair for drama is unmatched, which makes his clothes extremely fun to wear and Xeeshan prides himself on being unpredictable, on and off the runway.
Ali Xeeshan by Ali Xeeshan
“My design philosophy is taking unorthodox pieces and putting them together. I like incorporating techniques that designers would normally eschew for bridal wear. I take inspiration from our heritage but give it my own twist. The flavour is well-recognised but the seasoning is my own special blend.” This season, he’s looking at long dupattas, nearly four to five metres, which will allow the bride to drape them in various ways. “I’m excited about layering—it’s essential for creating opulent outfits. You can start with a shorter skirt, add a sheer overlay and pair it with a crop top, jacket and dupatta for added pizzazz.”
Contact: 0092-4236684433
Nomi Ansari by Nomi Ansari
Known for his dexterity with colour, Nomi Ansari can include every hue of the rainbow in an outfit without making it look garish. Ansari’s couture is intricately worked on, with a focus on embellishment. “We love fusing traditional with contemporary, moving with the zeitgeist yet retaining an aura of old-world glamour with our signature burst of colour,” he says.
Nomi Ansari by Nomi Ansari
His brides, he adds, are not afraid to step out of the box. “Life is too short to wear boring clothes. Most of our pieces have a pop colour element. For our latest collection, we’re playing with organza and sheer, handwoven Benarasi tissue as well as scalloped tulle for texture. The lehengas are going to be floral printed and then embroidered.”
Nomiansari.com.pk
Saniya Maskatiya by Sania Maskatiya
Maskatiya’s approach to couture can be best described as sophisticated. Fuss-free, embellished with fashion-forward cuts and a leaning towards print, there’s something charming about her aesthetic. “We are known for our versatile, specialised prints, textile design based on pure fabrics, unique colours and fine craftsmanship, and each collaboration between the bride and our design team is unique.” her latest collection ‘Afsaneh’ draws inspiration from the grandeur of bygone eras and celebrates the subcontinent’s rich cultural heritage by combining centuries-old embroidery techniques with luxurious fabrics.
Saniya Maskatiya by Sania Maskatiya
‘Afsaneh’ consists of intricate thread work techniques of zardozi, aari, and shimmering textures of sequins and beadwork. For the autumn/winter 2016 season, she recommends more non-traditional silhouettes like “peplum, tunics, crop tops with ghaghras, floor length worked maxis and even bridal trousseau ensembles that comprise draped separates that can be dressed up or down to suit any occasion.”
Saniamaskatiya.com
Elan by Khadija Shah
The undisputed queen of bridal designs, you would be hard-pressed to find a Pakistani wedding without spotting Elan pieces on everyone—from the bride to friends and family. Shah approaches couture with the same measured restraint that characterises her in real life, though that doesn’t mean her designs aren’t luxurious. “Our design ethos is timeless, decadent and, most importantly, feminine,” she says.
Elan by Khadija Shah
For her latest collection, she plays with high low silhouettes and focuses on feminine cuts. “We’ve gone beyond pastels and silver work and laid special emphasis on subverting traditional motifs and reinterpreting them in a manner that’s contemporary yet classic. We’re experimenting with frills, peplum and front slits.” Her designs are not for the demure bride—from sindoor red lehenga cholis to aqua and lime, colour is at the forefront of her new collection.
Elan.pk
The post These Pakistan designers redefine traditional couture for Indian brides appeared first on VOGUE India.