The last few years have seen a resurgence of vintage weaves, with several prominent designers lending their design acumen to bring forth the skills of Benares’s master craftsmen. Vogue teams up with six dynamic women to show you how to incorporate this intrinsically rich fabric in your everyday life.
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Sanam Sippy
Director, restaurant and lounge Asilo
Having moved to India from Dubai quite recently, Sippy’s exposure to traditional textiles and weaves is fairly new. “My favourite designers include Krishna Mehta and Payal Singhal; both have participated in a fashion property I curated, called ‘Couture Cabanas’. Krishna’s vibrancy was portrayed through the reupholstered Benarasi couches within the cabana,” she says.
On Sippy: Handloom Benarasi silk brocade skirt, Amoh by Jade. Denim shirt, ASOS. ‘Save It’ bracelet, Louis Vuitton. Diamond and gold bracelet, Vajrayan. ‘Solita’ shoes, Rupert Sanderson
Pooja Makhija
Consulting nutritionist
“For me, Benarasi has always meant a wedding or a puja. I love that it is so formal,” says Makhija. Hand-me-downs from her mum (including a sari that she “stole” from her) and mother-in-law form a special part of her wardrobe. “There’s nothing more sensual than a gorgeous handwoven sari. Our generation needs to step up and support our weavers. Honestly, there’s no better way to honour our roots and be exquisitely different, even on the red carpet,” she says.
On Makhija: Kimkhab brocade double-breasted jacket, Kimkhab brocade culottes; both Rajesh Pratap Singh. Shoes, Kenneth Cole. Watch, Bulgari. ‘Lady Dior’ mini bag, ‘Wild In Dior’ bracelet; both Dior
Vanika Choudhary
Founder, Sequel Bistro & Juice Bar
“I love wearing traditional fabrics, especially when they’re given a contemporary twist,” says Choudhary. Growing up watching her mum wear Benarasi saris, some dating back 40 years, her love for traditional textiles began early. “I plan to wear one from mum’s collection at my wedding,” she reveals. “It’s unfortunate that our beautiful crafts are dying. It’s important for designers to give such weaves a contemporary feel, so more of us can wear it on an everyday basis, not just at special occasions,” she says.
On Choudhary: Silk leher Benarasi sari, Ritu Kumar. Egyptian cotton shirt with hand bead detailing, Paridhi Jaipuria. Belt, BCBG Max Azria. Watch, Tag Heuer
Priya Ailawadi Nathani
Proprietor, fashion boutique, The Oak Tree
While her grandmum’s heavily patterned traditional silk saris continue to hold pride of place, it’s the lighter variety worn by her mum that really drew her in. “Her Benarasi saris have such beautiful gold borders with intricately done jaal work and butis all over,” she adds. “This craft is an important part of our rich heritage. We have to keep this tradition alive and bring back the popularity it enjoyed in our grandparents’ time,” she says.
On Nathani: ‘Ruqaiya’ handwoven and quilted jacket in silk, Raw Mango. Denim shorts, T-shirt; both H&M. ‘Shower Drop’ multi-crystal cross necklace, ‘Y-Shape’ cross necklace; both Butler & Wilson. Crinkled lambskin and canvas boots, Dior
Anupama Chopra
Film critic
A big fan of traditional weaves, Chopra’s association with Benarasi textiles is more about gold and brocade that are uniquely Indian. “I have this gold and off-white sari… it’s gorgeous,” she adds. “Bollywood exists because we, as consumers, love watching our movies. Similarly, we need to embrace our weaves, our heritage, for it to sustain. Honestly, it’s not such an effort to support our craftsmen as the work is so beautiful,” she says.
On Chopra: Silk brocade kurta dress, Payal Khandwala. 1980s vintage Givenchy link collar, Susan Caplan. ‘Diorever Squad’ bag, Dior. ‘Essential V’ bracelet, ‘Spirit’ bracelet; both Louis Vuitton
Kanika Kapoor
Singer and composer
One of her prized heirlooms is an old Benarasi sari that her grandmum gifted her. “It’s timeless and beautiful and showcases the sweat and toil of our weavers,” she says. “As a young creative individual, I whole-heartedly support and respect the sheer hard work and labour of the craftsmen who create pieces of such classical beauty,” she says.
On Kapoor: Handwoven lehenga; bustier jacket, SVA by Sonam and Paras Modi. Belt, Salvatore Ferragamo. ‘Ori’ earrings in 18K gold vermeil, Susan Caplan
Photographed by: Taras Taraporvala. Styled by: Priyanka Kapadia. Hair: Anchal Morwani. Make-up: Aarti Nayar. Location courtesy Blu Estate and Club, One Indiabulls Worli, Mumbai
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