Today's post 1940′s Men’s Shoes from Vintage Dancer.
1940′s Men’s Shoes – Pin This!
Check out those two tone shoes!
From the 1920′s to the 1950′s men’s shoes had an overall similar style and color palate. Lace up dress shoes were the most practical while boots were worn for work, sneakers for sports, sandals in the summer, and loafers for at home. The choice of colors were brown, black, white or a two tone combination of these colors. What marks each vintage fashion decade different from the next is in the details. The shape of the toe, thickness of the heel, and decorative details define each era. For men’s shoes in the 1940′s the style was stuck between the ornamented 1930′s men’s shoes and the colorful 1950′s men’s shoes. Sturdy but elegant dress shoes, casual yet stylish leisure shoes, men’s 1940′s shoes have their place in men’s fashion history.
Shoes During the War- 1940′s Shoe History
1944 Men’s basic boots or lace up oxford shoes
1940′s mens fashion in the early years was directly affected by WW2. Because leather was in such short supply for civilians, men’s shoes were very expensive to purchase. A single pair of leather Oxford could use up half a family’s ration stamp for an entire month. Unlike women’s shoes men were not fond of shoes made from reptile skins or synthetic materials. The only non-leather shoes they accepted were fabric Oxford made of cotton canvas in either brown or grey.
Fabric shoes were not rationed
Fabric shoes were not rationed and not very expensive but they did not last long either. Other experiments to cheapen men’s shoes were the use of wood soles. They could not withstand the elements very well nor were they comfortable. After the war most leather Oxford were fashioned with rubber soles that were easy for a cobbler to re-sole. This made shoes last longer and worth the extra cost. A single pair of well-made Oxford, even with leather soles, replaced yearly could last the duration of the war.
The 1940′s Men’s Oxford Shoes
1946 Mens Oxford Shoes
The most common 1940s shoes for men were lace up dress shoes, also known as Oxfords. These shoes became common starting in the 1900′s and have remained popular dress shoes for men today. What makes them unique to the 1940′s is the material, heel and top stitch detailing.
Overall, mens shoes in the 1940′s appeared chunky or heavy with thick stacked heels, thick soles, wide toes and top stitching details with heavy thread. Formal shoes often had a pointed toe. By the later years the new boxy square toe was making waves in 1940s mens fashion. The wide shoes balance out mens wide suits too.
Men’s shoes had to be durable. With the war in the early 40′s limiting leather, men’s shoes had to stand up to daily wear for years. Even after the war leather supplies took a long time to recuperate. While women’s shoes featured non-leather materials, men’s shoes were nearly all made of leather or suede making them an expensive purchase for the average man. Re-soling shoes was an economical alternative to buying new shoes.
1943 Lace Up Oxford Shoes in a smooth, un-decorated finish.
The lace up oxford was very popular in shades of a medium brown called Mellow Brown, often called saddle brown today. Its milk chocolate brown tone is one of the few distinctions of men’s shoes from the 30′s and 50′s. Matte black and dark brown oxfords were alternatives to the standard mellow brown. White oxfords graced the feet of men in the summer months and were considered an upper class luxury.
1940′s Men’s White Oxfords
Decorative details were more minimalist than they were in the prior two decades. Small holes, called brogue, which were prevalent on 1930′s shoes were nearly extinct by the mid 1940′s. Top stitching around the tongue and heel dressed up very plain shoes while brogue perforations on toe caps or wingtips made for dressier footwear.
One unique variation that was not minimalist was a weave pattern all over the shoe (see below.) They were breathable which also made them ideal in tropical climates.
Comparing men’s early shoes and late 40′s shoe you can clearly see a progression back to more ornate designs. The same trend was happening with 1940 attire for men too.
1949 Woven Oxford Shoes
The 1940′s Men’s Two Tone Shoes
1940′s Men’s Two Tone Shoes (1947)
Men’s Two Tone Sport Shoes
The favorite shoe of the 1940′s for re-enactors, swing dancers, and theatrical costumers today is the two-tone shoe. Nothing screams vintage quite like black and white or brown and white men’s shoes. In the 40′s all variations and styles of men’s shoes came in two-tone combinations. Basic lace ups, fancy wingtips, slip-ons and occasionally boots all came in two-tone varieties. The 30′s two tone shoe was a swirl of pattern while the 40′s and 50′s two tone shoes featured large blocks of light on dark.
In the 1920′s they were only worn for sporty occasions but by the mid 30′s and into the 1940′s two tone shoes were acceptable to wear with suits (see man at the top of the page). Men who wore two tone shoes took pride is keeping them looking smart. A bottle of white shoe polish traveled with him everywhere.
1940s Vintage Inspired Two Toned Mens Shoes
The 1940′s Men’s Saddle Shoe
1940′s Mens saddle, two-tone, wingtip, woven oxford, and white two-tone shoes
When I think of saddle shoes I think of the 1950′s teens wearing black and white oxfords to school. I was surprised to find saddle shoes appearing in the 1940′s and even as early as the 1920′s. The distinctive black center on white, or brown on tan combinations give a very vintage look to men’s shoes. They are an icon of 1940′s men’s fashion as well as the 1950′s. Saddle shoes have reemerged today with more colors and tones to choose from. Nearly any of them will give you a vintage 1940s look. Learn more about the history of saddle shoes.
1940′s Style Men’s Saddle Shoes
More 1940′s Men’s Shoe Styles
While the Oxford with its many colors and varieties were the most common men’s shoes a few other styles did appear.
1940′s Military Style Shoes- Mens Half Boot
Half boots or ankle boots were military inspired shoes with a clean smooth surface, maybe a cap toe, and minimal 4 or 5 hole laces. These boots were common work boots although patent leather varieties could be worn by business men.
1943 Mens Monk Strap Shoes
Monk strap shoes are mostly associated with 1950′s but they got their start in the 1940′s. The detail was all in the buckle strap with the rest of the shoe made of smooth leather in browns, blacks and whites.
Oxford and Moccasin Shoes
Moccasins were slip on shoes with or without two eyelet lace, a strap and buckle to the outside, or penny loafer styles. Toes were either smooth or round or outlined in crimped leather. Inside they were lined in comfortable wool felt fabrics for winter or cotton for summer. They were much more casual then any men’s shoes had been before. It was perfectly acceptable to wear moccasins with your sporting attire and possibly business suit for lower class positions.
1947 Topsider shoes with tie
The slip-on shoe was a favorite for men’s house shoes. Not quite slippers and not as fancy as the 1950′s penny loafers, the 1940′s slip-on was simple, sleek and casual. Featuring a plain undecorated apron front or elaborate weave, short tongue and stacked heel.
Topsider shoes were popular slip on shoes with young men. They were moccasin style with a lace that wove all around the shoes and a bow tied on the tongue. These became associated with the sport of boating in the 1930′s and were also called deck shoes or boat shoes.
1940s Style Men’s Slip On Loafer
1940 Men’s Sandals
Sandals were another leisure shoe for summer. Made of all leather the straps were woven across the vamp and around the heel with usually just one buckle. The T strap up the center was very popular throughout the decade. They usually came only in black, brown and white.
The idea of men wearing sandals was still a bit to foreign to many men so it took most of the 1940s to gain the popular status that they were in the 1950′s.
Tennis shoes
1947 Men’s Sport shoes
Boys and men who played sports had to have tennis shoes or sneakers. The ‘40s versions resembled Keds or Converse, with cotton or leather canvas uppers and thick 1-inch rubber soles. In fact classic All Star Converse sneakers were invented in 1917 and have been mostly unchanged in design since then. White converse high tops were official men’s training shoes during the war and were equally popular with Olympic athletes. They came in both low and high tops done in navy, brown and white with white laces. The classic black and white combination didn’t come about till the 50’s. Read all about the history of 1940′s sport shoes here.
19940′s Men’s Work Boots
1944 men’s work boots
For hardy work jobs such as farming, railroading, and mechanics men wore sturdy work boots. With very thick heavy rubber soles and high leather bodies that rose above the ankle to provide support and stability for long days. They laced up part way and hook and looped the rest. Various grades of leather determined the quality of work boots. Elk hide was the softest and appropriate for light, indoor work such as in a factory. Tanned cowhide was tougher with a coating of rubbed oil to make them water proof and better suited for the outdoors. Kangaroo leather imported from Australia was advertised as 17% stronger than cowhide. They were some of the top of the line work boots a man could buy.
Buying Vintage Inspired 1940′s Mens Shoes
Whenever possible wearing vintage 1940′s mens shoes is the best choice for recreating 1940s mens fashion, however when the style, size, or color you want isn’t available in vintage footwear consider new shoes. Many new oxfords, two-tone wingtips, saddles shoes, boots and slip ons exist on the modern shoe market. To make finding these shoes easier I have put together a 1940′s mens shoes shopping page. New styles are added frequently from multiple shoe retailers to make your shopping easier. Here they are as well: (Best viewed in web browser)
Stacy Adams - Dayton - 1940s Mens Shoes
$95.00
Buy at: Zappos.com
Aris Allen Men's 1950s Spectator Wingtip Dance Shoe
$84.95
Buy at: DanceStore.com
1940s Mens Bonds Wing Tip Shoes
$89.99
Buy at: Jos. A. Bank
Brown Clarence Calf Semi-Brogue Mens Shoes
$199.00
Buy at: Charles Tyrwhitt
Woven 1940's Mens Loafer Shoes
$155.00
Buy at: Jos. A. Bank
Dr. Scholl's Vintage Style Slippers
$26.99
Buy at: AmeriMark.com
Allen Edmonds Broadstreet Wingtips Two Tone Mens Shoes
$365.00
Buy at: Allen Edmonds
Aris Allen Men's Brown 1950s Mesh Wingtip Dance Shoes
$84.95
Buy at: DanceStore.com
Aris Allen White Men's 1950s Wingtip Dance Shoe
$84.95
Buy at: DanceStore.com
Frye Men's Sully Woven Shoes (Cognac)
$150.40
Buy at: Shoes.com
Sperry Top-Sider Men's Seaside Woven Shoes (Tan)
$87.50
Buy at: Shoes.com
Frye Men's West Woven Driver Shoes (Cognac)
$142.40
Buy at: Shoes.com
A. Testoni - Moc Toe Lace Up Oxford (Calf Nero) - Footwear
$515.00
Buy at: Zappos.com
Aris Allen Men's 1930s Black and White Spat Style Wingtip Dance Shoe
$79.95
Buy at: DanceStore.com
Stacy Adams Spectator Dress Shoes
$49.99
Buy at: Blair
Dayton Stacy Adams Dayton 00613 mens wingtip shoes
$160.00
Buy at: stacyadams.com (Weyco Gro
Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip Oxfords 6235 Walnut Calf 10 2A
$365.00
Buy at: Allen Edmonds
Vintage Shoe Company - Lilly (Cork Natural Suede) - Footwear
$185.99
Buy at: Zappos.com
Allen Edmonds Strawfut Wingtip Oxfords 5505 Brown Calf/Linen - ONLINE
$247.00
Buy at: Allen Edmonds
Dayton Stacy Adams Dayton 00611 mens wingtip shoes
$160.00
Buy at: stacyadams.com (Weyco Gro
Wolverine '1883 - Horace' Wingtip
$125.00
Buy at: NORDSTROM.com
Geox 'Claudio' Wingtip
$109.96
Buy at: NORDSTROM.com
Rockport Men's Fairwood2 Wingtip Shoes (Light Tan)
$129.99
Buy at: Famous Footwear
Italian Leather & Suede Wingtip Loafer
$180.00
Buy at: Paul Fredrick MenStyle
Wolverine - Horace Wingtip Brogue (Men's) - Taupe/Brown
$119.95
Buy at: Shoebuy.com
Sperry Top-Sider - Gold Oxford Wingtip ASV (Men's) - Tan/Ivory Leather
$159.95
Buy at: Shoebuy.com
Allen Edmonds Hudson Wingtip Oxfords
$73.74
Buy at: Shoesxl.com(Casual Male)
Cole Haan - Air Madison Monk (British Tan) - Footwear
$248.00
Buy at: Zappos.com
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