2017-01-24

Today's post 1930s Fashion Colors, Clothing & Fabric from VintageDancer.com.

At the moment 1930s reproduction clothing is limited in choices. I expect a 1930s revival to happen in the next few years but for now, it is a forgotten decade. If you want to create a 1930s outfit you will either need to buy vintage (ouch$$) or sew your own. The first steps to sewing your own 1930s clothes is to pick out a sewing pattern and then the fun part really begins: the 1930s fashion fabric! The following is a guide to popular 1930s fashion colors, fabrics and prints that should help you locate a good thirties fashion fabric to begin your project.

1930s Fashion Colors



1930s Fashion Colors for All Seasons

There was little change in fashion colors during the 1930s. In spring and summer women gravitated towards saturated pastels such as peach, rose pink, lilac, sunny yellow, sky blue, and sea green. Add to that year round colors of red, navy, emerald green, orange and mustard.  For winter chocolate brown, grey, tan, rust, and black were warm and rich.



1934, note the amount of white in the cotton prints and white eyelet embroidery on the batiste.

1930s fashion color combinations were often contrasting but rarely as clashing as the 1920s. Blue and pink, yellow and green and tonal variations such as red and pink or brown and tan. There was one color, however, which was combined with all other colors: white. White was the base for many pattern fabrics from gingham checks to stripes and floral. Red flowers outlined in white, blue dots on white, white embroidery on a solid net. This wasn’t something I noticed until I began to look through the many examples of fabrics sold in the 1930s.

White was everywhere. Perhaps is was an economical way to save on dying white fabric. Or perhaps white gave hope during difficult times. If a solid color was worn you bet an accessory of white gloves, belt, purse and hat was worn too. White collars on dresses and blouses and white trim around cuffs and necklines were also added to most house dresses and many afternoon dresses. White wasn’t just for spring and summer either. White was a year round color.

1930s Fashion Fabrics



1938 floral prints and more

With the stock market crash limiting budgets, modesty back in style, and home sewing being the most common way to acquire new fashions, women turned to the department store or mail order catalog for fabrics. The cost of materials was usually much lower than the cost of ready made clothing. For example a basic cotton print was 25 cents per yard in 1934 which is about $4.48 USD today. Assuming 3 yards of fabric is needed the total cost for the dress fabric is about $15.  A new ready made simple house dress cost $1.29 or about $23 today.  The savings is not great but combined with upcyling old dresses and reusing old trim a new homemade dress could and did mean substantial savings.

1930s Summer Fabrics: Light and breathable

Most fabrics for summer and winter were light and airy. Cotton, rayon, and silk were each woven into fabrics that were quite often sheer enough to require a full slip or a lining to be used.  Cotton voile was one of the cheapest of the nice options costing about $2.88 today. Rayon was a little pricier at $7.80 a yard. Silk was about $15 a yard. Crepe, the favorite fabric of the decade ranged from $10-20 a yard.

Orange Cotton

Cotton:  Cotton came in an assortment of different weights. As a natural fiber it took dye and printing well, was washable, durable, and breathable in hot weather. It was prone to shrinking and fading in the sun. Types of cotton available were broadcloth, cotton suiting, foulard, covert, percale, lawn, batiste, and pique.

1930 Cotton Fabrics

1937 Cotton Prints

Dimity: Is a simi sheer, lightweight cotton made into dresses and bed linens. It has a slight texture of rows (called corded below.) It takes a nice fine print well, especially on a white background. It is prone to wrinkling but that gives it some personality as well.

Dimity

1937 Corded Dimity Fabrics

1930 solid linen

Linen: Linen is one of the best summer fabrics for its breath-ability. It is a heavier weight compared to most summer cottons and it can wrinkle very badly but in hot climates it is a must. Linen is  always a solid print in a light color such as this butter yellow with white embroidered flowers.

Linen

1934 “Silk Linen”

Crepe:  Crepe was the perfect ’30s fabric. It was light, flowing and draped nicely but it was also thick enough to avoid the sheerness issues of cheaper fabrics. It had many subtle textures from smooth (flat crepe) or pebbled. It could be made of rayon, silk or cotton or more likely a blend of them. Crepe fabric came in solid prints and floral prints in rich colors.

Several of my 1930s catalogs included swatches of crepe.

Crepe prints

Small floral print blue crepe fabric swatch

Three textures of crepe

1934 flat crepe swatch

Pongee: Silk pongee also called tissue silk or Japanese silk is a lightly textured fine silk most often used in lingerie, pajamas, blouses, Japanese kimonos and robes. Cotton pongee was also available but not as fine as silk.  Solid colors in light pastels and pretty prints make this a dreamy fabric for the boudoir.

Silk Pongee Print

Ivory Silk Pongee

Voile Print

Voile: Light and airy, voile is one of my favorite 20s/30s fabrics. It breaths in warm weather, drapes nicely, and is surprisingly durable for its delicate feel. Voile came in plain colors and some small prints. Flocked with dots and flowers in white provided some texture to otherwise smooth fabric.   Lawn is a similar fabric made of linen or cotton. What’s the difference?

Dotted Swiss is also similar except the dots are woven instead of printed.  It was not always just dots. Small flowers and fruit were also popular. Because of its sheerness an under layer of cotton backed the swiss.

Flock Dot and Sheer Voile 1937

Swiss Dot

Swiss Dot and Lawn 1937

1930s Winter Fabrics: Warm and modest textiles

Wool: Wool was the ideal fabric for winter weight clothing, coats, and menswear.  Like cotton, it could be turned into a number of different styles of fabrics.  It was thick, warm and often scratchy. It was always a solid color in a flat or textured weave.  Wool was often blended with cotton or rayon to make it cheaper, thinner, softer and shrink resistant.

Wool Fabrics

Chambray: Prior to heavy blue denim being used in women’s fashion in the early 1940s. Sportswear, workwear, children’s clothes and suits used Chambray, a lighter version of denim. Solids, narrow stripes and wide stripes of multiple colors were all offered. Most colors were light since the weave on white made dark colors speckledand faded instead of solid.  Stripes were usually placed in a vertical orientation.

1937 Chambray Stripe and Solid Fabrics

Striped Chambray from a summer playsuit

Corduroy: Corduroy in the 1930s came in fine grooves of solid colors, although patterns were increasingly popular as well. As a medium to heavy fabric it was used for suiting, winter sportswear, children’s clothing and accessories like handmade hats and purses.

1934 Corduroy

1938 Corduroy

Flannel: Brushed cotton made flannel an excellent fabric for winter sleepwear, young children’s clothes, and blankets. Plaids, checks, stripes and solids were popular in flannel. Flat flannel in solid colors was also used in men’s and women’s suiting.

1930 fleece flannel

Tweed: The tweed weave was an especially popular wool or wool blend winter material used in suiting, outerwear, and sportswear. It was woven into textures such as chevron, checks and waffle. It could also be printed on although the designs were small and muddled in appearance.

Tweed and Corduroy

1930 printed tweed

1930s Evening Fabrics: A taste of luxury

Frugality was set aside when it came to evening fabrics. Anything shiny was in, including sparkling paste jewelry. Satin reflected light, taffeta glimmered and even velvet reflected some shine. Evening colors were heavy in gold, peach, emerald green, black, brown, red and copen blue.

Silk: Although quite expensive silk was still used in evening dresses and gloves. Blends of silk such as silk-satin or silk-taffeta created a thicker, shinier fabric that the ’30s embraced.

1930 silk solids

1934 Silk

Sateen: Satin and sateen were the most popular evening fabrics for bias cut gowns. They draped beautifully, wrinkled little, clung to the body and were not as delicate as pure silk.  Plain color satin were preferred in eveningwear.  It was equally popular as a lingerie fabric.

1930s Sateen Fabrics

1930s satin bias cut gown

Taffeta: While I don’t personally like taffeta it was a good, affordable fabric for evening gowns that needed some body without layering. It was light yet stiff making it ideal for folds and ballgowns. The shine made it shimmer in dim lights.  Taffeta could be made from silk, cotton or rayon.

Yellow taffeta from a simple evening gown

Net: For ballgowns and dresses with the most body a net layered dress (over taffeta) kept a dress light and full. Net was often bedazzled with sequins or ribbon work.

Net over taffeta with sequin ribbon detail

Sheer net evening gowns

Velvet: Year-round, but especially in cooler months, velvet was a luxurious evening gown material.  It ruched well (see below) and draped with a shine. It was heavier than other fabrics but buttery soft and oh so divine! Can you tell I LOVE vintage velvet. Modern velvet is heavy, stiff, nasty stuff.

Velvet

1935 Velvet and fur trim bias gown

Lace – After an almost 10 year hiatus from fashion in the 1920s, lace returned with vigor in the 1930s. Lace was used for collars and dress trims but if you could afford it an entire lace gown made a statement of your wealth.  Below I am wearing a beautiful peach lace evening gown that was worn by a wealthy woman in the 1930s to elegant house parties.

1930s Peach Lace Evening Dress

Lace in Peach (VERY popular ’30s color)

1930s Fashion Prints and Patterns

Late 30’s floral dresses

Prints were a big deal in the 1930s and not just for house dresses as they had been in the 1920s. Improvements in textile printing meant designs could be printed on almost any kind of fashion fabric available. 1930s prints favored flowers above all else. Small floral in simple, painterly designs resemble arts and crafts styles. Florals became slightly larger as the decade ages but hardly ever grew beyond 3 inch flowers. Although Art Deco was in full swing there was little Deco design in fashion prints. There were some repeating geometrics such as diamonds and squares and of course polka dots.

Slightly larger florals were designed with a tropical flair. Prints of the 1930s remained small and dainty. You can use almost any small printed floral fabric to create 1930s clothing.

1930s Floral Prints

1937 florals- small prints

Floral galore!

1934 Floral Prints

Polka Dots – Dots never go out of style. The 1930s loved them as much as the 1920s, 1940s and 1950s did however they did not take center stage over florals. Small white dots on a colored background or colored dots on a white background were the choices.  Polka dots were mostly found on accessories such as scarves and gloves.

1937 polka dot dress

Plaid- Plaid in the form of Tartan plaid, gingham check and windowpane never go out of fashion.  1930s plaids patterns were small prints with 3 colors max. Checks and windowpane were simple two colors with white being one of them. They were mostly used for house dresses and casual frocks and were not especially popular compared to the 40s and 50s.

1930 Gingham Fabric

1937 day dresses: dots, checks, tweed and plaid.

Paisley– When I think of paisley I think of ’70s men’s shirts in wild swirls of clashing colors. Little did I realize that the 1930s also loved wild paisley patterns. Large paisley was especially popular with dress suits, afternoon frocks, and some casual blouses. Color combinations had no limits.

Paisley

1930s paisley fabrics on Etsy

Buying 1930s Fashion Fabrics

You can still find some vintage 1930s on etsy or ebay however the quantity is usually less than one yard. Consider these instead:

http://www.rickrack.com/ – Original fabrics from the 1930s- mostly cotton prints.

http://www.antiquefabric.com/ – Large collection of original fabrics

http://www.donnaflower.com/ (UK) – Charming collection of 1930s fabrics

Spoonflower.com- has a selection of reproduction and inspired 30’s prints you can custom order on cotton or silk.

Fabric.com – Another source for new classic vintage inspired prints.

1930s notions for sale:

http://www.thebuttonbower.com/ – Buttons, buttons, buttons!

http://www.accessoriesofold.com/  – Beads, buttons, trim, and more

http://www.vintagebuttons.net/ –  Buttons, jewelry and more

1934 buttons

Shop 1930s Sewing Patterns and Fabrics

1930S DAY DRESS

Vintage Cotton Dimity Fabric 1930s Sewing Quilting Half Yard 36 inch Antique

$14.50

Vintage Fabric / 1920s Fabric 1930s Fabric / Dress Fabric / Silk Fabric Paisley Fabric Sample Set / Art Deco Fabric

1 yard 1930s art deco Vintage cotton voile 34 wide flower grid floral fabric semi sheer material sewing quilt dress wiggle chiffon green

Butterick Patterns B6433 A5 Misses Banded Jacket Jodphurs and Breeches by Making History Size 6-8-10-12-14

$13.94

Butterick B6397 Making History Misses Hats in Four Styles (Beret Pillbox Fascinator) 6397 One Size Millinery Pattern

$12.99

1930s Reproduction Alice Brooks 5299 Vintage Crochet Pattern Misses Hat and Purse Head Size 22 in

$5.00

1930s Felbrigg Bag - PDF pattern INSTANT DOWNLOAD

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1930s Dress Tunic Skirt Any Size- Plus Size Included- Depew E-1828 Draft at Home Pattern -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

$8.50

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1930s Dress With Capelet Sleeve in Any Size Depew A-1045- Plus Size- Draft at Home Pattern -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

$8.50

1930s Ladies Wrap Around Dress - Reproduction Sewing Pattern #T0337

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1930s Blouse in Any Size Depew 1068a Draft at Home Pattern - PLUS Size Included -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

$7.50

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1930s Dress in Any Size Depew 1042 Draft at Home Pattern - PLUS Size Included -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

$8.50

Vintage Sewing Pattern 1930s Dress in Any Size Depew 1040 Draft at Home Pattern - PLUS Size Included -INSTANT DOWNLOAD-

$8.50

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