2012-07-28



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Initially I had my hopes set on Jasper and the Icefields Parkway.  Friday afternoon there was a sizable mudslide just West of Banff, and warnings on the news advised that the 1A was also considered unstable.  Considering the number of major mudslides we have had in the past few weeks in the mountains as a result of heavy rainfall and runoff from snow melt I decided that perhaps a prairie run was called for.

The weather was beautiful.  A nice warm summer day in the low 70s, blue skies sprinkled with picturesque white clouds.  A perfect picture of a prairie summer day.

Sunday morning I headed out of town and took smaller side highways out to Drumheller.  For the most part these roads cut across bald prairie and the scenery consisted of field after field after field.  Bright yellow fields of Canola.  Greens and browns of wheat and other crops.



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Occasionally gentle hills provided a few photo opportunities.  This small slew at the side of the road provided showy contrast with the yellow canola and green fields just beyond it.  Definitely needed to stop to capture the image for posterity.  While I was shooting a few adventurous wasps discovered the oh-so-tasty road kill that decorated my bike.  Insect life was alive and well - although after I went through the numbers of insects alive and well were marginally decreased.  Closing my helmet and gearing up I cautiously approached the bike and the unwanted fan club.  I hopped on and rode off eventually losing my yellow and black striped entourage.



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It is sometimes surprising just how quickly landscapes change.  Dropping into Drumheller always surprises me - one minute I am running through a prairie landscape as far as the eye can see, a few hills appear and then the road slopes down right into the badlands.  The warning of the drop comes in the form of road signs advising trucks of the upcoming grade and the need to test their brakes.

As you start to drop down towards Drumheller the road curves around, and it seems you are transported to a different time.  Even the quality of the light seems different as the cliffs and hills rising around you modify the character of the sunlight.

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The rock formations of the Badlands are striated, dark black stripes of coal, and many layers of sedimentary rock collected over time.  The area has a lot of interest for the tourist - badlands rock formations, Hoodoos, suspension bridges, coal mines, ghost towns, the Royal Tyrrell Museum... the list goes on.

A section of the Red Deer River was perfectly calm and reflected the surrounding rock formations and sky like a piece of glass.

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I headed down to Wayne, Alberta.  A very well known ghost town, population 27.  (At one time this bustling metropolis boasted a population of 3,000 hardy souls.  Even though it has a population 2973 ghosts qualify it for this status).  The short ride of 6 km is an interesting one crossing 11 wood decked single lane bridges.  Traffic stops at each bridge to yield to oncoming.  The road follows the curve of the rock formations past ancient mining equipment, broken down shacks, crisscrossing the river often.  There are many good places to the police to hang out, so moderation of speed is key.

Usually I crank it up a wee bit as I come into corners.  As I was coming into a corner marked 35kph I slowed.  This was a little odd for me - this is one of the best corners in the area.  Something told me to ease off, and I listened.  Very good thing because as I came around the curve I caught sight of a herd of black cruisers parked along the side of the road, spectators for the single bike laying in the dirt on its side.  A cruiser rider had a few issues navigating the corner and slowed down the rest of his entourage.

I slowed to check that everybody was OK.  The female rider I talked to indicated that the passenger from the back of the bike had injured her leg, but didn`t want an ambulance.  This woman had been following the ambitious off roader but opted not to try his offroading trick herself.  Apparently he was claiming that the road was washboard and bucked him right off - but that pavement seemed very smooth and in excellent condition to me.

Just ahead of the group of bikes a white truck was also pulled off to the side offering assistance.  Since I couldn`t contribute anything I left my first aid supplies in my trunk, and pulled back onto the road, bumping over the railroad tracks and crossing the next bridge.  It is always a little sobering to see the aftermath of any two wheeled incident, and my speed to the Rosewood hotel reflected this.

When I reached the hotel I did a U-Turn and headed back out towards Drumheller.

Video: Bridges of Wayne

Heading back out to the highway I decided to head over to check out the Hoodoos.  These are interesting rock formations that almost look as if they are wearing a jaunty hat.  They are sandstone pillars perched on a shale base with a flat rock on top protecting the thin pillar form further erosion.  Many locations to see them in the area.  I pulled off and took a few pictures of the Hoodoos and surrounding rock formations.

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Finishing with the Hoodoos, I headed out past Atlas Coal Mine, then back towards Drumheller.  It was time to top up the tank - both for the bike and myself.  I stopped for a cold pop and then it was time to hop back on the bike and head out to do the North Dinosaur Trail loop.

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The road headed out past the Royal Tyrell museum, another small abandoned coal mine, a tiny chapel that seats six people, a golf course, go cart track and campground.  After running along through the Badlands it curved around and uphill, rising above the rock formations and returning me immediately to the prairie.  I rode past green and yellow fields, and a few oil derricks pumping away, then dropped back down to the Red Deer River where the road ends at the water.  For some reason a bridge was never installed at this location, but it didn`t take long for the Bleriot ferry to return to shore.

This ferry fascinates me.  It is a cable ferry, really just a large barge with a ramp on either side.  It slowly traverses the river which is very narrow at this point.  When the ferry is docked the opposite side of the ferry is halfway across the river.  If two ferrys were parked end to end there would be no need for the service as they would form a perfect bridge.

It`s always an odd feeling to ride a bike onto a ferry.  The metal ramp is usually slick with moisture, and, in this case, mud. Picked up a liberal coating on the tires.  Always feels a little unstable to ride onto a boat.  Bridges don`t bother me, but ferrys still give me pause.  There is always the thought in the back of my mind that the ferry could start moving in a way that a bridge or road does not.

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Leaving the ferry I gave the truck proceeding me a brief head start since I didn`t especially want to stop on the steep 40 degree road sloping up away from the river valley.

Back on the highway I traveled past more badlands rock formations, and some prairie as well.  A tall white grain elevator in the distance seemed a relic of the past - at one time they were prevalent enough to be a visual symbol of the prairies, but they are slowly disappearing.

Video: Transition from prairie to badlands and some sections of the North Dinosaur Trail loop:

Passing back through Drumheller I struck out once again across the prairies towards home.

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