For some people, enjoying coastal Oregon is a bit of a challenge. Even for Oregonians it’s sometimes frustrating, because it’s not “the beach” as you know it in T.V. and movies. It’s rarely warm, with an average high in the dog days of summer barely reaching 70 degrees, the ocean is freezing year round and it rains a lot. Needless to say, anyone looking to slip on a cute bikini and splash in the surf will be sorely disappointed.
Oregon Coast. Photo: Robert Balkovich
However, someone who’s open to a different kind of beach experience will find more than enough to love. While tourists are better off visiting in the summer months when there is more in the way of outdoor activities, true Oregonians enjoy the coast year round. And there is definitely an enchanting magic about visiting in winter.
Whatever time of year you brave it, here are some things — from south to north — you shouldn’t miss.
Florence
Located in the central region, the town of Florence is about an hour’s drive from the inland city of Eugene. A large city by coastal standards (about 8,000 people), it’s a perfect entry point for a trip up the coast, with plenty to see and do.
Sand Dunes. Photo: David Tansey, flickr
A must visit for nature lovers is the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. Part of the Siuslaw National Forest, it features miles of towering dunes that are the result of millions of years of wind and erosion, giving it a surreal look. It’s the largest expanse of coastal dunes in the U.S., and an ideal spot for off-road vehicle enthusiasts.
In town, the place to eat is Mo’s Restaurant, which has a few locations up and down the coast. This one, situated right on a bay, has the best view. Mo’s is an Oregon Coast institution, and it would be criminal to visit without having a bowl of their famous clam chowder. If you’re feeling lucky after lunch, you can hit up the Three Rivers Casino, owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua, and Siuslaw Indians.
If you can tear yourself away from the video poker, you’ll want to continue driving north up the Oregon Coast Highway, a stretch of the famous U.S. Route 101 running the entire length of the Pacific coast.
Sea Lion Caves and Heceta Head Lighthouse
North of Florence the highway runs 300 feet above the ocean, providing spectacular views no matter the weather. Just outside of town you’ll find the Sea Lion Caves. $14 gets you admission to an enormous sea grotto full of Steller sea lions. A big draw is that this not a zoo or aquarium. You are observing the sea lions in their natural habitat, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Sea Lion Caves. Photo: Sam Churchill, flickr
Once you’ve had your fill of the sea lions, you’ll want to continue north to the Heceta Head Lighthouse, the most famous of the many lighthouses on the Oregon Coast. The residence of the lighthouse keeper is allegedly haunted by the ghost of a woman, and legend has it if you look up at the attic window, you may be able to see her looking back at you. Despite the haunting, the lighthouse grounds could not be more scenic, located on a headland with a spectacular view. After undergoing extensive renovations, the lighthouse and the keeper’s house are open to the public for tours. There’s also a bed and breakfast if you’re interested in spending the night and aren’t afraid of ghosts.
Heceta Head Lighthouse. Photo: Robert Balkovich
Yachats
The town of Yachats is small in size, but big in character, and has been recognized as one of the best beach towns in the U.S. Besides the stunning scenic beauty, Yachats is home to a number of events year round, such as the Yachats Village Mushroom Festival, the Yachats Celtic Music Festival, and Whale Watching Weeks throughout winter and spring at the nearby Cape Perpetua Scenic Area.
Beach new Yachats. Photo: Robert Balkovich
There is a lot to see and do in and around Yachats, and if you plan on staying in the area, the Adobe Resort is the place to hunker down. Situated literally steps from the water, the Adobe features an award winning restaurant with stunning ocean views. If you’re just passing through town, it’s worth a stop for a Dungeness crab salad or grilled Yaquina Bay oysters.
Newport
If you continue up 101 you’ll hit the town of Newport, one of the jewels of the Oregon Coast. Newport is best known for the Oregon Coast Aquarium, which was ranked one of the top 10 aquariums in the U.S. by Coastal Living. It’s an ideal stop for families, with an array of sea life on display, including an underwater glass tunnel and tidal pool creatures you can touch.
Newport historic bayfront. Photo: Robert Balkovich
Beyond the aquarium, the historic bayfront features plenty of gift shops, authentic dining (including the original Mo’s!), beautiful murals offering a glimpse into Newport’s history as a port town, and a ton of family friendly attractions including a Ripley’s Believe it or Not, the Wax Works, and the Undersea Gardens. If tourist attractions aren’t your thing you can just walk the piers and docks, taking in the ocean air and watching for sea lions in the bay.
If you want to stay the night in Newport, there’s no better place than the Embarcadero. It’s located within walking distance of the historic bayfront, features a private crabbing and fishing dock, and has outdoor hot tubs, which may sound strange for a place with chilly, rainy weather but on a cold, misty winter night the experience is heavenly.
Depoe Bay and Lincoln City
The small town of Depoe Bay boasts the world’s smallest harbor, but the real attraction is the main drag of antique, gift and wine shops, located on a rocky cliff looking out over the ocean. The not-so-pacific Pacific Ocean is known to splash up hard against the rocks of the cliff in Depoe Bay, creating awe inspiring displays of waterworks right next to the sidewalk. It’s definitely worth stopping and enjoying the view while sipping a hot chocolate.
Ocean at Depoe Bay. Photo: Robert Balkovich
Once you’ve finished enjoying the sights and sounds of the turbulent sea, continue north to Lincoln City, which is home to the Chinook Winds Casino and Resort, owned and operated by the Confederated Tribe of Siletz, one of the largest in the state. If mega casinos aren’t your thing, you can check out the D River, which until recently held the Guinness Book record as the smallest river in the world.
Tillamook
One of the Oregon Coast’s biggest claims to fame is world famous Tillamook Cheese, and if you’ve ever enjoyed a brick of their award winning medium cheddar, it would be regrettable to not visit the Tillamook Cheese Factory, located right off of 101. They offer factory tours daily and best of all, every tour ends with a cheese tasting, so hopefully you haven’t had too much clam chowder. Make sure to try the Tillamook cheese curds, lovingly known as “squeaky cheese.” They are delicious and fun, and exclusively sold at the Tillamook Cheese Factory.
Tillamook Cheese Factory. Photo: Michelle Kinsey Bruns
If you somehow didn’t get your fill of cheese during the factory tour, make sure to head over to the Blue Heron French Cheese Company, a coastal institution. In addition to a fantastic selection of French cheeses, the shop also has an array of local wines, smoked meats, and gifts. You’ll want to make sure to get some to take home with you. Pacific Northwest smoked salmon has to be eaten to be believed.
If you need a break before another winding leg of the road trip up 101, you can head over to the Tillamook Air Museum, which features one of the top five privately owned aircraft collections in the world. The collection of decommissioned military planes dating back to World War II is housed in a giant hangar over 15 stories tall and as large as six football fields. In fact, it’s the largest free-standing wooden structure in the world.
Tillamook Air Museum. Photo: Karyn Christner, flickr
Garibaldi, Rockaway Beach, Wheeler, Nehalem, Manzanita, and Oswald West State Park
Continuing further north up 101 you’ll pass through several small towns where you can get a true taste of Oregon Coast culture. Make sure to keep an eye out for the big hillside “G” while driving through Garibaldi, the Nehalem Antique Mall, and detour off the highway into Manzanita, where you’ll find one of the best beaches.
Manzanita Beach with Neahkahnie Mountain. Photo: Robert Balkovich
North of Manzanita is Oswald West State Park. After a short hike through a lush pine forest you’ll find yourself at a crossroads: do you hike up the mysterious Neahkahnie Mountain (rumor has it there is a buried treasure left by early Spanish explorers somewhere on the mountain) or continue down to a breathtaking cove sheltered by steep, tree covered cliffs jutting out hundreds of feet? Save yourself the trouble and do both.
Seaside
Seaside has a well-earned reputation for being the family fun capital of the coast and anyone looking for the more typical beach experience will find it here. There’s an ocean front promenade, an annual amateur beach volleyball tournament (the largest in the country), and the Seaside Family Fun Center. The Seaside Civic and Convention Center also houses exciting events year round, including Iron Chef Competitions and the Miss Oregon pageant.
Seaside family fun. Photo: Jason Lander, flickr
For older kids there are Saturday Art Walks and Wine Walks, in case you haven’t had enough great Oregon wine yet (hint: you’ll never have enough).
Fort Clatsop and Astoria
The drive north up the coast ends with the oldest European settlements in the state, Fort Clatsop and the city of Astoria.
Astoria Column. Photo: Robert Balkovich
Fort Clatsop was erected by Lewis and Clark when they reached the Pacific Coast in 1805. A replica of the fort was built and is maintained by the National Park Service. It’s open daily for tours and is really a must see for history buffs.
Just across Youngs Bay from Fort Clatsop is the city of Astoria, Oregon. Founded in 1811 as a fur trading post, it’s the oldest European settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. The city is known for its beautiful homes, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley, the Columbia River Maritime Museum and the Oregon Film Museum: you might recognize Astoria from the films The Goonies, Free Willie, Into the Wild and others.
View from Astoria Column. Photo: Robert Balkovich
The perfect way to end any trip up the Oregon Coast is at the Astoria Column. Erected in 1926, the column stands 125 feet tall and is painted with a mural depicting important events in Oregon’s history. After a climb to the top (don’t rush, it’s a long way up!), you’ll be treated to an astonishing view of the mouth of the Columbia River as it runs into the Pacific Ocean. I think you’ll find the view alone is worth the trip.
The area codes for coastal Oregon are 503 and 541.
Where to Stay:
Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B — If you aren’t afraid of ghosts the Heceta Head Lighthouse’s B&B is a unique and beautiful experience. It’s located in the old lighthouse keeper’s residence, and although it’s a drive to the nearest town, you probably won’t regret waking up to the breathtaking ocean views right out your window. Mile marker #178 & ¼, Highway 101; 866-547-3696; www.hecetalighthouse.com
The Adobe — The Adobe is one of the best hotels on the coast. The views alone are worth the price of a room, which are already very reasonably priced. Treat yourself and upgrade to an apartment or a Jacuzzi suite. 1555 U.S. 101, Yachats; 541-547-3141; www.adoberesort.com
The Embarcadero — Of all the hotels on the coast, this is my personal favorite. It’s located in Newport within walking distance of the historic bayfront. They have unique suites featuring everything from full kitchen to patios, and even complementary Rogue Brewery beer when you arrive. 1000 S.E. Bay Blvd., Newport; 541-265-8521; www.embarcadero-resort.com
Rent a house! — If you’re going to be staying awhile on the coast, you might as well consider renting a house. It’s the best way to immerse yourself in the coastal vibe. Head to www.oregoncoastvacationhomes.com for great rental listings up and down the coast.
Where to Eat:
Mo’s Restaurants — For Oregonians Mo’s is synonymous with the coast, and it would be insane to not have at least one bowl of their famous clam chowder before leaving the area. They have locations in Florence (1436 Bay Street, 541-997-2185), Newport (622 SW Bay Blvd. Newport OR, 541-265-2979), Otter Rock (122 1st Street Otter Rock OR, 541-765-2442), Lincoln City (860 SW 51st Street Lincoln City OR, 541-996-2535), and Cannon Beach (195 Warren Way Tolovana Park OR, 503-436-1111). www.moschowder.com
Blue Heron French Cheese Company — The deli counter is perfect for grabbing a delicious gourmet sandwich and there are tons of other delicacies to try. Make sure to bring home some local treats to share with friends. 2001 Blue Heron Rd, Tillamook; 503-842-8281; www.blueheronoregon.com
What to See and Do:
Go to the beach — Even in the dead of winter the beaches along the Oregon Coast are some of the most pristine, well preserved and beautiful beaches in the world. Click on the following link for a great list of beaches and what activities they are best for: www.visittheoregoncoast.com/activities/beach-activities/
Hit the slots — If the rain is a little too much for you, check out one of the casinos owned and operated by a local Oregon tribal confederation. The atmosphere is much more pleasant than what you’ll find in Vegas or Atlantic City. The two big casinos on the coast are the Three Rivers Casino (5647 Hwy 126, Florence; 541-997-7529; www.threeriverscasino.com) and the Chinook Winds (1777 NW 44th St, Lincoln City; 541-996-5825; www.chinookwindscasino.com).
The Oregon Coast Aquarium — Best known for being the one time home of Keiko, the killer whale who played Willie in the Free Willie movies, the Oregon Coast Aquarium is a treat for any nature enthusiast. The jellyfish room, tidal pools, and seabird aviary are must-sees. 2820 SE Ferry Slip Rd., Newport; 541-867-3474; www.aquarium.org
Antiquing — The coast is known for its plethora of antique shops and you can find some amazing things. A unique and ubiquitous find in antique shops on the coast are Japanese glass floats that wash up on the beaches in Oregon from time-to-time. www.visittheoregoncoast.com/activities/antiques/
The Tillamook Cheese Factory — Whether you’re a lover of Tillamook Cheese or have never heard of it, you won’t want to miss the Tillamook Cheese Factory tour. It’s worth it for the cheese tasting alone. 4175 Highway 101 North, Tillamook; 503-815-1300; www.tillamook.com/cheesefactory/
Fort Clatsop — Lewis and Clark were the first Europeans to really explore the Oregon Territory, and the re-creation of their home base, Fort Clatsop, is a history lover’s dream. 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd, Astoria; 503-861-2471; www.nps.gov/lewi/planyourvisit/fortclatsop.htm