Catching Air at Kicking Horse Mountain Ski Resort Photo by Jeff Bartlett
To celebrate another new year of skiing, I ventured down British Columbia’s Powder Highway for the first time to see if it truly was the skier’s ultimate pilgrimage. The numbers make a strong case: the circular route links 8 ski resorts in interior British Columbia that average 50 feet of annual snowfall apiece. As a devout skier, I had to experience it for myself before I could decree its status as a powder mecca.
Over eight days, I drove nearly 1200 miles and skied a full six days at three resorts. It snowed continuously throughout my trip.
The Powder Highway delivered; it just might be the ultimate powder skier’s dream road trip.
Deep Snow and Steep Terrain at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort Photo by Jeff Bartlett
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
My trip began just outside Golden, British Columbia, at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Its immense size – the 4th tallest vertical drop in North America – was immediately obvious. I loaded the Golden Eagle Express Gondola and climbed from the base area, up through the clouds, to the summit.
The view spread across the entire resort, revealing four steep bowls and few easy ways down. This place was built for extreme skiers; runs like CPR Ridge and Fuez bowl offered ski-movie quality descents, especially on day one with the 10 inches of fresh snow. It’s a 10 is the only beginner run from the top of the mountain and there are few intermediate options until about halfway down.
Kicking Horse is a relatively new resort. It opened in 2000, which means its infrastructure, including the bottom-to-top gondola, chairlifts, day lodges, and hotels are all modern.
Whitewater Ski Resort in Nelson British Columbia Photo by Jeff Bartlett
Whitewater Ski Resort
My second stop on the Powder Highway was at Whitewater Ski Resort, located near Nelson, British Columbia. It’s practically the antithesis of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, as the resort is forty years old and its chairlifts look it. Even the recently installed Glory Chair, which tripled the size of the ski area, is a castoff from Vail, Colorado.
But I didn’t consider its age a downfall, as Whitewater’s charm is in its pace. The chairs are slow, the terrain is gentle, the snow is deep, and everyone sounds like they’re having their best day ever. While the terrain is definitely weighted towards intermediate (40%) and advanced (40%) skiers, the snow is so forgiving that it’s an ideal place to learn to ski powder.
Skiing about the Kootenay Sea at Red Mountain Photo by Jeff Bartlett
Red Mountain Resort
After four straight powder days at two outstanding resorts, I expected Red Mountain Resort to disappoint. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Red is steep in history. Debatably, it’s the oldest ski area in Canada, dating back to the early 1900’s, and it had western Canada’s first chairlift installed in 1947. Today, its name is deceptive, as the ski area actually spans three mountains – Red, Granite, and Grey, the smallest of which is Red Mountain. The terrain, for the first time on the Powder Highway, seemed evenly mapped out for all level skiers; however, there is enough big mountain terrain that the resort hosts the annual North Face Canadian Open Freeskiing Championship.
Thick valley clouds, a regular phenomenon known locally as the Kootenay Sea, shrouded Red Mountain, but I found solace in the sunshine at higher elevations on both Granite and Grey Mountains.
Snowboarding through the Forest at Whitewater Ski Resort Photo by Jeff Bartlett
Other Resort Options
Revelstoke Mountain Resort is both the newest and largest ski resort on the Powder Highway. Opened in 2007, Revelstoke has gained a worldwide reputation for its combination of deep snow and ridiculously steep terrain. Beginners need not apply.
Tucked away in the very southeast corner of British Columbia, Fernie Alpine Resort has 140 ski runs spread across 5 alpine bowls. While there is ski-in, ski-out accommodation at the resort, the nearby town of Fernie was christened the Coolest Town in North America by Rolling Stone Magazine.
Panorama Mountain Village, Fairmont Hot Springs Ski Resort, and Kimberly Alpine Resort complete the Powder Highway, but while each of these resorts has individual highlights, they pale in comparison to the all-inclusive Powder Highway experience at the five major resorts mentioned previously.
Catching Air and Riding Trees at Whitewater Ski ResortPhoto by Jeff Bartlett
How to Pull it all Together
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
Where to Stay:
Glacier Mountaineer Lodge – This hotel takes ski-in, ski-out comfort to new levels. It’s literally 10 steps from the gondola to the elevator through the only boot and glove drier equipped ski storage room I’ve ever seen. 1549 Kicking Horse Trail; 250-439-1160; www.glaciermountaineer.com
Where to Eat:
Eagle’s Eye Restaurant – Located at the top of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, the Eagle’s Eye Restaurant exemplifies dinner with a view. Just make sure to make a reservation, as the dinner services book up fast. 866-SKI-KICK; www.kickinghorseresort.com
Whitewater Mountain Resort
Where to Stay:
Prestige Lakeside Resort, Nelson – Spectacular views across Kootenay Lake seem a world away from the snow slopes of the resort. 701 Lakeside Drive; 250-352-7222, www.prestigehotelsandresorts.com
Where to Eat:
Fresh Tracks Café – Located in the Whitewater Mountain Resort Day Lodge, this isn’t a standard ski area cafeteria. Head Chef Amanda Skidmore has created an eclectic menu that‘s garnered plenty of accolades and her cookbook is in high demand. 250-354-4944; www.skiwhitewater.com
Oso Negro Coffee – With 20 blends of house roasted coffee, this cafe is a caffeine fiend’s dream, but it’s also a great place to people watch, as the town of Nelson is home to a colorful community that tends to congregate here. 604 Ward Street; 250-352-7661; www.osonegrocoffee.com
What to Do:
Check Out Local Artwork – Although there isn’t a designated art walk, it’s worth venturing downtown to see local artwork on display at the Haceldean Gallery, Ourglass Studio, Craft Connection, and Gallery 378. www.hellobc.com
Red Mountain Resort
Where to Stay:
White Wolf Cabins – These private mountain chalets are fully loaded and come with an outdoor hot tub, fireplace, and enough space for both friends and family. They’re also within walking distance of the ski lifts. 4310 Red Mountain Road; 877-969-7669; www.redreservations.com/white-wolf
Where to Eat:
The Flying Steamshovel – The locals’ pub, located just minutes from Red Mountain Resort in nearby Rossland, B.C. It looks rough around the edges but the food is delicious and the atmosphere is lively. 2003 2nd Ave.; 250.362.7323; www.theflyingsteamshovel.com
What to Do:
Big Red Cats – If there’s no fresh snow at the resort, it’s a safe bet you can find plenty of powder at Big Red Cats, which uses snowcats, the machines typically used to groom a ski area, to provide access to backcountry ski terrain with a qualified guide. 4430 Red Mountain Rd; 250-362-2271; www.bigredcatskiing.com