I’ll never forget my first day skiing at Whistler Blackcomb. Freshly laid-off from a seasonal job in northern British Columbia’s oil and gas industry, I headed south to Whistler with no goal other than to lose myself in the snow for the remainder of the winter. It was snowing the evening I arrived and the storm continued throughout the night, with an accumulation of 30 inches from the time the lifts quit spinning till the next day’s start-up.
It seemed like a personal gift from Ullr, the Norse God many consider to be the patron saint of skiing, to be treated to the deepest powder of my life on my first day at North America’s largest ski resort. Despite being unfamiliar with the area that I landed in, Blackcomb rather than Whistler Mountain, it was a fluke that I was able to nail a few prime powder-day objectives that diehard locals know firsthand:
On my first run, I stumbled upon the Crystal Ridge Triple Chair and lapped steep glades until mid-morning.
After my first trip up the Glacier Express Chair, I skied into Spanky’s Ladder just as patrol opened the area.
At the end of the day I found myself at the Longhorn Saloon for locals’ night.
That day, one of the best ever, had a lasting effect. Rather than skiing a single season, I stayed on for three more. There are other ski resorts on Canada’s West Coast, but the discussion always starts with Whistler Blackcomb.
Whistler Blackcomb
Photo: Mike Crane Tourism Whistler
Last season, I returned there for the first time since the Peak-to-Peak gondola was installed. While it’s both a major novelty and a super-efficient means of moving between the two mountains, I found it hadn’t changed either mountain’s atmosphere.
The truth here is that both mountains deliver the goods. Blackcomb is known for its long flowing runs like the adventurous Spanky’s Ladder which is long enough to leave the toughest quads burning. It’s also home to the experts’ only terrain park, which has served as a testing ground for dozens of local pro skiers.
Whistler Mountain seems to be equal parts beginner and expert terrain, almost making the intermediate skier the odd man out. The above tree-line skiing off the Symphony, Harmony, and Peak Express chairs, invites full throttle turns, especially on powder days when these lifts attract thousands of skiers. The lower mountain is mostly the domain of beginners, however anyone ready for a challenge can tackle Dave Murray’s Downhill, which was the trail chosen for the 2010 Winter Olympic races.
Photo: Mike Crane Tourism Whistler
Whistler Mountain has two base areas with Whistler Creekside being more of a locals’ stopping point. The real action is in Whistler Village where both Blackcomb and Whistler Mountains join. It has countless ski-in, ski-out hotels. The only thing that’s better than Whistler Blackcomb’s ski terrain is its nightlife. Parties rage at different venues nightly, so I advise befriending a local to get the inside scoop on what’s happening where.
Other Mountain Options
Photo: Theo Birkner
Mount Washington Alpine Resort, located 3 hours north of Victoria in Comox, British Columbia, is the only major ski area on Vancouver Island. It’s a good size and receives around 40 feet of annual snowfall.
Photo: Theo Birkner
On the mainland, Cypress, Seymour, and Grouse are all about a half hour drive from downtown Vancouver. Although all three are small compared to their neighbors, each has its own merits beyond being just close to the city. Cypress is the biggest of the three with its infrastructure the most recently updated. It was chosen as the venue for 2010 Winter Olympic mogul skiing and snowboard halfpipe. Grouse offers plenty of options, with Vancouver’s best terrain park, a mountaintop skating pond, and 10 km. of snowshoe trails. Families who favor outdoor activities other than skiing like Seymour, the smallest and least expensive of these three resorts.
www.whistlerblackcomb.com/
www.mountwashington.ca
grousemountain.com/
cypressmountain.com/
www.mountseymour.com
How to Put It All Together:
Whistler Blackcomb
Where to Stay:
Four Seasons Resort Whistler – Over the top luxury paired with the best location in Whistler Blackcomb. The lobby is steps from the lifts. 4591 Blackcomb Way, Whistler; 604-935-3400; www.fourseasons.com/whistler/
The Adara Hotel – Located smack dab in the center of the pedestrian village, it’s the only true boutique hotel in Whistler and is known for its rustic meets modern style. 4122 Village Green, Whistler; 604-905-4009; www.adarahotel.com
Where to Eat:
Roundhouse Lodge at Whistler Blackcomb – Skip breakfast at the hotel and opt for Whistler’s Fresh Tracks Mountain Top breakfast. The full service buffet is served at the Roundhouse Lodge, one hour before the mountain opens. After eating, duck outside and steal a few runs before anybody else arrives. 4545 Blackcomb Way, Whistler; 604-967-8950; www.whistlerblackcomb.com/the-mountain/on-mountain-dining/winter-mountain-top-dining.aspx
BrewHouse at Whistler Blackcomb – Serves up handcrafted beer, brewed on site in Whistler Village and standard pub grub. 4545 Blackcomb Way, Whistler; 604-905-2739; www.markjamesgroup.com/brewhouse.html
What to Do:
Whistler Sliding Centre – Although the 2010 Vancouver Olympics are in the past, it’s now possible for all visitors to experience their own Olympic moment with the Bobsleigh and Skeleton Experience which lets guests experience the thrill of these adrenalin pumping Olympic sports. 4910 Glacier Ln, Whistler; 604-964-0040; www.whistler.com/olympic_venues/
Mount Washington
Where to Stay:
Bear and Deer Lodge – Slopeside accommodations within walking distance of multiple chairlifts. The three bedroom units sleep up to nine people, so think about sharing the experience with friends or family. 1280 Alpine Way, Mt. Washington; 250-338-4383, www.mountwashington.ca/slopeside-accommodations.html
Where to Eat:
Ted’s Bar and Grill – West coast inspired entrees along with a lengthy list of domestic and craft beers. It’s also the go-to après ski spot and the only venue for live music at the resort. 1 Strathcona Parkway, Mt. Washington; 250-338-1386 www.mountwashington.ca/things-to-do/alpine-dining.html
Vancouver
Where to Stay:
The Fairmont Pacific Rim – This Fairmont property is not historical but brand spanking new and as luxurious as the best of them. Its location in Coal Harbour looking across the water is within walking distance of Gas Town, which is convenient for barhopping from one trendy venue to the other. 1038 Canada Place, Vancouver; 604-695-5300; www.fairmont.com/pacific-rim-vancouver/
The Burrard Hotel – A mix of retro-cool and modern design. Originally opened as the Burrard Motor Inn in 1956, it recently underwent massive restoration but hasn’t lost its old school vibe. Highlights include Brooklyn Cruiser bike rentals and a massive interior courtyard. 1100 Burrard St, Vancouver; 604-681-2331; www.theburrard.com/
Where to Eat:
Wildebeest- This is a meat-centric restaurant that continues to garner accolades, like Vancouver Magazine’s Best New Restaurant and Best New Design. 120 West Hastings St, Vancouver; 604-687-6880; wildebeest.ca/
Forage – This restaurant takes sustainable dining to heart. Its head chef, Chris Whittaker, grows his own vegetables, catches his own fish, and forages for everything in between. He brings his passion to the kitchen with a locally sourced menu. 1300 Robson Street, Vancouver; 1.604.661.1400; www.foragevancouver.com/
What to Do:
Granville Island – It’s overflowing with fresh foods, both at the public market and at the waterfront restaurants. A vibrant artistic community provides the entertainment, with art galleries, street performances, and theatre. granvilleisland.com
Commodore Ballroom – It’s been the center of Vancouver’s music scene for nearly a century and continues to draw the biggest names in town. 868 Granville St, Vancouver; 604-739-4550; www.commodoreballroom.ca