Lazing Around - Negombo, Sri Lanka
Negombo, Sri Lanka
Where I stayed
Summer Side Residence
Anuradhapura
-Galle – Koggala – Negombo 16th - 26th
October
This will be a short blog as we have had a lazy time over the last few days.
We travelled from Anuradhapura to Colombo by 1st Class train and had a good journey. As they say online, (the only place you can book the First Class), that you are only allowed 10 kilos of luggage, we had emailed and asked what we could do about our bags. We received an almost immediate reply saying there would not be a problem as the guard would look after them. We retained the reply on my iPad to show anyone who objected but it worked very well as promised.
So it came as a shock when we had to change to a Second Class, non-reservable train for the journey down from Colombo to Galle. Unfortunately it was a Buddhist long weekend holiday and the whole of Sri Lanka seemed to be travelling on our train. It would have been a relief to be packed like sardines, they are lined up in an orderly fashion with equal space for each sardine.
The worst was trying to get aboard. I put my bag up and tried to climb the step when a woman behind pushed her 10 or 12 year old daughter up on my back to climb over me and grab a seat. I was not amused as she was heavy!
Anyway, we managed to get on and find a space to stand and hold tight. I soon learnt how to defend my minuscule territory with elbows, knees and backside. Jim was holding the bags onto a rail and seemed suspended from the wall somehow. But apart from the first woman/daughter incident it was all good natured with lots if smiles.
When we stopped at stations it became unbearably hot, thankfully, the open windows and doors created a pleasant breeze when moving. Throughout the journey, traders squeezed their way through the mass of people, selling food, books, drinks etc. At one point I was jammed in the aisle by a large man and there was not an inch of space between us but it did not stop a couple of people pushing and prodding their way past but then their friend, a very fat woman (I know that is not a polite description but it is accurate as she must have been at least 20 stones), tried to follow them. I honestly thought I would end up with broken ribs as other people heaved, pressed and squashed her, without mercy, through the non existent gap. I don't know how but they managed it and miraculously no-one seemed to suffer any permanent damage. This is definitely not a place for anyone who values, (or needs any) personal space!
After two and a half hours we arrived in Galle which was buzzing with people celebrating the holiday. Our hotel was right by the ramparts and had a lovely view out to sea from the roof bar/restaurant although it was small and basic but very friendly. We are going back for a few days when we return from India as we enjoyed it so much and want to visit the museum which was closed for the holiday.
Galle Fort was built by the Portuguese in the mid 1500s, it was added to by the Dutch in the 1600s and the British took the Fort in 1796. Outside the Fort the town became a major port but eventually lost trade to Colombo. It is the largest lived in fort in the world.
We loved the colonial buildings, walking the fort walls, watching cricket being played on any green space and peeking into the houses as we wandered through the narrow streets. Like many of the towns we have fallen in love with on our travels it is well covered with mould. The Mediterranean style of white washed walls does not fare well in a tropical humid climate. However there is a huge amount of renovation work being carried out in the Fort so it can only get better. I don't think it is all because Prince Charles is coming to visit, in November, which was the reason we heard given numerous times. The area suffered badly from the 2004 Tsunami, and many people died but the Fort itself fared reasonably well because of its robust structure and provided some protection.
I spotted a snake on the grass at the front of our hotel. It disappeared into a concrete box but a young man from the hotel helped me lift the lid to take a photograph. Jim, probably sensibly, preferred to keep his distance.
From Galle we moved along the coast to the East to a small place called Koggala to enjoy the beach and a relaxing hotel with pool for a few days. We did take a boat trip on the lake and stopped off on a small island where cinnamon is grown. The elderly couple showed us how the
bark is stripped of the twig and then the next layer is cut and peeled off. After drying in the shade for a week this is then a cinnamon curl or it can be ground down to powder. Oil is extracted from the leaves and is meant to be a good headache cure.
The guests at the hotel were mainly Russian and German but we did meet a few English people and enjoyed chatting with them. It was good to hear English as we realised it has been a while since we have had conversations with native English speakers.
Now we have travelled back to Negombo to be near the airport ready for our flight to Kochi in India. As we will only have a couple of weeks there we have booked a Birding trip with a Driver/Guide for 6 days so I hope it lives up to expectations. Will let you know in the next blog.