Side-trip 3: On My Way To Mauritania - Tan-Tan, Morocco
Tan-Tan, Morocco
Here is a trip deep into the South Desert (which actually took place 3 years previously). Actually, I was just passing through the area on my way to Mauritania and back.
January 1, 10, 2009
The plan was to head off on a magnificent 3 week overland African adventure on December 25... I had my visa to Mauritania...my bags packed... And then ended up in a nasty little tussle with a previous landlord that pretty much put my life on hold for a week...
When that finally cleared up, it seemed like there was no sensible way that I could think of going all the way across the Sahara and back in time--but I knew I had to go SOMEWHERE... so I grabbed my bag and headed out the door...
As I wait for the city bus to the intercity bus terminal, it suddenly strikes me that I HAVE to make that trip down to Black Africa--even if it means just going down and turning around and coming back... I've been looking forward to parkbenching a whole new Mega-region for so long that I know if I don't do it, I will start this year off with a bitter taste in my mouth...
...the bus to Tan Tan, the "gateway to the Sahara" leaves at 5 PM... I arrive at the bus station at 4:58... And I’m off...
...Marrakech... Agadir... Tiznit... on into the night... Then somewhere past Goulmime, the sun rises on the vast emptiness--with freckles of green... apparently, even the desert has gotten extra rain this year...
As we approach Tan Tan (0246, 8 hrs, 7.1 kms), I immediately know where I have to take my clip--in front of the two camel statues that are guarding the entrance to Tan Tan. So when the bus gets stopped by the Gendarme police, I get off to backtrack to the camels. They are a bit curious as to why a guy is wandering off towards the empty desert with a guitar slung over his shoulder, but when I explain my mission, they quickly understand. Gotta have clip with the camels...
Back into town, through a rather sleepy industrial area and Main Street. I head off the explore the back street where locals stare at me with puzzled looks. Seems to be a mix of Berber and Saharawi culture. I continue on through town, down to an almost dry river bed where I play my set under the shade of a tree. Moroccan coastal towns are typically painted blue--and desert towns are painted a pinkish brown... Tan Tan has a bit of both.
Off to the east, I find a much more lively neighborhood with a market and a long, street lined with shops of every sort... At the very end of it was the transport terminal with buses, grand taxis and creaky old Land Rovers (It's like a 'second bus' one of the drivers boasts) heading north, the civilization and south and east, deep into the Sahara. All around are cheap little hotels for weary folks needing a rest. I am undecided as to whether I will take the grand taxi or cram into the cheaper Land Rover... I figure I'd go with whichever fills up first... Taxi it was...
I liked Tan Tan... a dreamy sort of "in between worlds" sort of vibe...
It's the first time I've traveled this stretch in the day time--not a whole lot to see except wasteland and one or two sea inlet that we cross... Finally, in the late afternoon, we reach El Ayoun (0247, 8 hrs, 6.9 kms). Back in April of 1997 I came down to El Ayoun from Agadir with a friend who knew some people down there. After a year discovering Arab and Berber Morocco, this was a fascinating opportunity to discover Saharawi Morocco with it’s very clear cultural distinctions. I still have fond memories of sitting on the floor in people's homes--or in tents they set up on their roofs--from morning until night, chugging on glass of supersweetened tea after another like some sort of hopelessly addicted teaholics... But no, that's just a normal day in Saharawi culture... I remember the LONG greeting ritual they would go through whenever they ran into a friend on the street (both would spout out a long stream of greeting phrases—simultaneously, neither listening to the other!) and learning about the complexities of their wedding rituals and traditions—an amazing time
Saharawis are extremely hospitable--among themselves... A Saharawi crossing the desert can just "drop by" into a stranger's tent and be treated like royalty. They are, however, a bit chilly towards outsiders. That made that experience back in 97 particularly special... Haven't had that same experience in the Sahara since...
Today will just be a relaxing walk down memory lane... Past the UN Moroccan Sahara mission headquarters (what the hell do those guys DO all day?)... up to the big central plaza... out to where you get a great view of the neighborhoods to the west and the sand dunes beyond...
Pass the Supratours station and figure I should go ahead and book my ticket to Dakhla... only to find that the tickets are sold out... I hurry off to the other stations with a sinking feeling... No luck... Now I've got a dilemma... I'm already way behind schedule, and if I lose another day... Damn... I just don't know that I can do it--especially with the concern that there might be the same ticket shortage on the way up... I'll have to cut my trip ANOTHER day short just to play it safe...
After that thrill of my last minute escape to Subsaharan Africa, I've now hit a brick wall.
Anyways, I've still got El Ayoun to parkbench. So I find a cheerful park plaza and play my songs as the sun sets behind me... then I continue on, get myself a good meal of grilled chicken...
There is one sliver of hope... There might be, just MIGHT be an overnight grand taxi to Dakhla... even though I've never heard of an overnight taxi before... I slowly wander through town, making my way towards the grand taxi station...
The taxi station was looking dark and quite empty... I crossed my fingers and... "Kayn shee taxi ghadee Dakhla?"
"Kain"
That was the best "Kain" I've heard in a long time...