Passage Report No.127 Galapagos to Marqueses - Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia
Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia
Passage Report No. 128
Galapagos to Marqueses
Sunday, 24th April, 2016 - morning - calm, oily calm, Skipper goes ashore to complete internet. (enrolment with Tahiti Crew - agent in Polynesia). Sahula is finally ready to sail. A sea haze rolls in.
“Sprouie” (Spree in Gaelic) slowly sails out (solo sailor Shane - Ireland) bound for the Gambier Islands, some 3000 miles south.
Anchor up, Tanya on, Sahula moves to sea.
“…good luck, fine sailing…see you in the Marqueses…” yacht farewells.
Agent, James Hinkle, radios farewell, “…good to meet you, enjoyed our conversations, good sailing…”
Mainsail up, yankee, staysail unfurled, Tanya off. Sahula leans to a silent sea (3-5 knots), sailing the swells, south to the South East Trades at 2 -5 degrees latitude. Once gained she will head south west to the Marqueses, some 3000 nm (some 5800 km) passage. It is the longest crossing for Sahula after the Indian and Atlantic oceans.
Volcan Negra, Isabela Is, fades away into the sea fog.
A lone booby dives far from a familiar coast. A white Galapagos Albatross glides the sea into a waltz of “valleys and peaks.”
Wind increases to 12.5 knots, Sahula (5-6 knots) takes the “bit,” goes for home.
Yachts on the Pacific Net (8143 kHz) report fine sailing, 10-15kts in the Trades at 5 degrees south.
Sundowners through a hazy sky, dinner and commence watches at 2000.
Tanya takes Sahula through two hours of evening calm. At 2200, again sailing; a 10 knots SE, maybe, heralds the edge of the Trades.
Skipper has the satisfaction of a safe, low risk (late cyclone) Galapagos departure date, knowing that weather conditions are returning to “normal” Trades and doldrum zone moving north.
Radar breakdown, no signal. AIS assumes greater importance. Ship pass unseen in the sea haze.
Watches, 3hours, pass the night bathed by a full moon.
Fading winds, Trades are further south. Sahula enters the northern end of the “Bad Weather Box” (090 - 095 w, 03 - 08 s - yachts report, black, rain squall winds and calms (Jim Connell)) moving to 05 degrees south.
Sahula will then plot a direct course to Hiva Oa, Marqueses.
Night sailing on a moonless sea; playing “Russian Roulette) with fate - moving forward into pitch blackness.
At 2 degrees Latitude Sahula enters calms. Winds before rain, the only respite. Tanya on, Tanya off, one and half knot current ensures progress.
Dolphins play the swells. Large fish explode from the depths. Red golden clouds provide a curtain to the sunset theatre.
Sundowners (every evening) - juice (Sahula at sea is non-alcohol), chips and time to converse. a Boom U2 “music tube” playing iTunes from MacAir, provides a Sahulian “Son et Lumiere” - classical, jazz, pop…
Sahula ’s theme song becomes Louis Armstrong, “What a Wonderful World.”
Sahula previously silent, enjoys a musical bonanza.
“…liking the sea depends on ones attitude. If orientated to the sea, likes swimming, fishing, sailing then they are not confined by the sea but free amid a vast ocean, it is not a barrier, it is a pathway to travel, experience, beauty…”
Polynesian sailors described when breaching their island’s surf, sailing outrigger canoes to distant islands, using stars, sun, moon, currents, bird flight to colonise the disparate Pacific islands. (Polynesian Seafaring and Navigation:Travel to distant islands - Richard Feinberg, David Lewis “We the Navigators”).
Wednesday, 26th “…sunrise - gold on a calm sea - 8knots winds, increasing to 15 knots - two reefs, yankee and staysail - Valerie (Hydrovane self steering) doing a great job - wonderful sailing…” Diary.
Crew move into the “groove” - days pass, nights move on - reading, colour sketching, French lessons, harmonica, guitar lessons, blog writing, breakfast, lunch, dinner, watches, sailing, resting. Crew and Skipper alternate cooking dinner.
16 UTC, each day, (1000 am) Pacific Net (SSB - 8143 frequency) connects some 24 -30 yachts at sea, bound for the Marqueses or Gambier Islands. A list of Net Coordinators ensures various yachts share the task.
Yachts provide their location (Lat, Long), true course, speed and wind direction, sea conditions and request information or assistance. It provides at sea, security (rescue if needed) and social interaction. Reports show weather conditions allowing course changes.
Sahula, since Panama, is part of a large yacht community, a “family” fleet, met in various anchorages, sailing similar courses to common destinations.
Yachts with satellite phones only, cannot contribute to the Net. It requires Single Side Band (SSB) radio.
Some (Sahula included) can receive emails and weather reports (provided by NOAA, USA) using SSB radio, Pactor Modem and laptop software. Daily connection to Ham Winlink, or Seamail, shore stations depends on sun propagation. It is intermittent.
In the lulls, Tanya drives Sahula south, sailing, the course south west to Marqueses.
“…are you going to the Gambiers…?”
Esperanza: “…at present we are just following the wind…”
“…we are having banana bread, banana pancakes…our green bunch is ripening…”
The Trade Winds prove fickle. Calm, light, strong, squally, seas from the SE. A course west, requires constant sail change. Wear is a constant battle. Lines, sails must be set free. In low wind conditions, seas set sails to flap or falter.
Crew wonder how Shane, solo Irish sailor, on 27 foot, “Sproie” is going on passage to the Gambiers? He has no SSB radio.
Yachts are so close yet so far. A yacht at sea level has an horizon on some 5-10 nm depending on weather conditions, and swell height. Rarely are other yachts sighted.
A rain squall drenches Sahula. Crew, dry and out of wind, appreciate the cockpit bimini and plastic sides.
Bimini hoses can redirect rain water to buckets or the inboard tanks. Buckets can provide a daily wash.
Kristiane, (Austn yacht) reports on Net, imminent arrival in Hiva Oa, Marqueses. She is some two weeks ahead. Sahula is bringing up the fleet “rear.”
Sundowners: “…why did you join Sahula…” Skipper to Danish crew. Skipper first met Crew, backpacking, in Sucre, Bolivia. Widely travelled (India, China, South America) while at school. He is pre-university (“…I don’t know what I will do…”) - worked as a relief primary school teacher to finance travel.
“ ….since a small boy, sailing in Denmark…I have always had a dream of sailing the Pacific…you offered the chance…I was coming to the end of my South American travels…I was ready to do something different…”
“…did you consider what the yacht maybe like…?
“…I thought, you’d come this far…it must be ok… and you also…my parents understand…”
Skipper colours a large sketch “Galapagos Memories” featuring the volcanic islands and their wildlife.
“…it is for the grand children…future international citizens…”
Skipper reads “Dangerous Allies” (Malcolm Fraser, ex Austn PM), warning of the danger of “strategic dependency” in Austn foreign policy due to “great and powerful” USA with an “imperial” presidency, unrestrained by international principles guarding national sovereignty, negotiating peace not war. Insanity ashore, peace at sea.
Far out, a sea bird, so small, pure white, glides the seas infinity.
“…why are you there, so far from land, so far from others…”
So far from material madness, human hubris, ego and violence…
“…this is Esperanza…we report a large fishing boat, seems Japanese, (a per-seiner - dragging huge nets)…it has two helicopters (for fish spotting)…we are being overflown…it is well lit (yellow over white)…”
Sahula has a single fishing line astern. Two small fish (one aboard) have been caught. So few fish caught from from Sahula, indicates the “rape” of the oceans by large fishing boats taking in tonnes of fish in a single trawl.
“…keep flying little white bird…claim your domain…”
Sea is oily calm, Mollie (spinnaker) hangs limp, not a breath cools the tropical heat.
Tanya (engine) takes over. Distance denotes fuel. Sahula cannot motor the full distance.
“…we will go south when motoring, south west when sailing…”
Be day, calm, light winds; by night, squall clouds threaten, bringing periods of wind, calm between. Long low southern swells, born in some distant depression, lift and lower.
Sahula seeks the Trade Winds consistent 12-15 knots. They seem a chimera!
Pacific Net indicates varying conditions, no consistent wind flows. The fleet is decided into three groups, a small group there or in sight of, a large group around 09 s, 130’s w and those behind around 117 w.
Sahula is a third of the way. Less than two thousand nautical miles to go. Light conditions remind that food, water and fuel may need to extend far more than planned.
A heavy rain squall fills Sahula ’s buckets allowing laundry and freshwater bath.
Skipper bakes banana bread with fast ripening bananas. Two pawpaws, one ripe, remain. Plaintains and potatoes last well, kept in a dark cupboard. Two pineapples are next weeks fare.
Fresh food is lasting well but soon gone replaced by tins. Cabbage, eggs (turned every two days) provide last freshness.
Blocked toilet blights Skipper’s day. Locating the blockage is a messy, must do, challenge.
“…the catamaran had four toilets in ensuite cabins…”
“…never…”
Crew rigs Mollie (spinnaker). Sahula ghosts over low seas; mainsail snaps noisily in lifts and lowering, Mollie fills, balloons then collapses.
Crew reads, eats and passes time, hoping for wind. Course is 240 True (course over ground) to move south seeking the stronger Trades. Sahula must turn west at 10 degrees latitude to sail direct to Hiva Oa, Marqueses.
The Trade Wind lottery of wind, fuel, food and time, continues.
Skipper reads “Hawaiki, Ancestral Polynesia” (Kirsh, Green) on anthropology of Polynesia - bordering Somoa, Tonga, New Zealand and Tahiti. Fiji west and north is Melanesia and Micronesia.
Seemingly from no where it comes (09 S), a 12-15 knot South Easterly. Sea build, waves tumble, Sahula careers into her element at 6-7 knots under poled out Yankee. She is free, course west (265) to the Marqueses.
Below hand holds are critical to movement. Dishes, other loose items, need securing or packing.
Skipper notices a small squid on the deck. The lure is changed to a multi coloured plastic squid.
“…we have a fish…” A Wahoo specie is evening meal.
Crew turns Danish baker - two loaves and a banana bread.
Pacific Net reports light winds further west. Sahula relishes the Trades.
“…I don’t feel like we are so far from land…I only consider the horizon…” Crew secure on Sahula. Sahula is some 1000 nm from nearest land.
A small black bird flits in a dance across the waves…
“…I don’t think about how far we have to go…” Crew.
We can go no faster, There is some 14 days to go..
Being aboard a small yacht, without the accoutrements of shore material life promotes a mental cleansing - there is a finding of endless space, filled only by simpler things. The modern world of internet, instant connection to family and friends is a distant reality. Life is slow, wonderfully slow.
“…I am observing the stars - a canopy of infinite light, bathing the silver sparkling sea. How is it we sail in such a narrow, fragile, space between cloud and sea?…” Diary.
The Winlink SSB previously connected but no more….sun propagation is against a signal.
Pac Net is the only link to other humans in a community.
Skipper sketches the Galapagos Blue Booby in a feeding frenzy. Using photographs, the aerial acrobatics of birds intent diving on fish schools with penguins, seals, and pelicans. It is nature as it was, as it should be, highlighting the Galapagos uniqueness, highlighting their being the one place on earth where evolution has not been completely disrupted by humans. Skipper now has an excellent portfolio of Galapagos art.
At 09 degrees south Sahula finds the consistent Trade Winds - 13-15 knots from ESE to SE. Superb sailing under half poled Yankee and full main. The Pacific Net yacht locations report similar winds to the Marqueses.
Skipper notes the Net users confuse True course (over the ground) with Magnetic. Magnetic requires variation (earths magnetic field found on charts) and deviation (magnetic anomaly caused by the vessel’s character). True is the only useful course without extra information. Some yachts report a “course over the ground of Magnetic…” !
Also yachts are so focussed on arrival at Marqueses that they are only interested in weather locally rather then the critical information of wider pressure systems likely to deepen from a low to cyclone. Wider weather isn’t been given on the Net unless asked for. Weather history reports two late cyclones in eastern Polynesia in the 1980’s. However, it is now a declining El Nino with cooling seas. The ingredients for a deepening low are much less.
Skipper keeps a close eye on the Barometer. It has been steady at 970 mb. A sudden drop is a clear warning. Unlikely but…
Skipper asks “Beachouse” for a Grib File weather forecast (provided on web by NOAA, Washington USA on Winlink, Sailmail or Sat Phone).
“…you can expect 19-20 kms in a day or so…there are no low pressure systems in the vicinity…”
At 1200 hours, wind increases from 12 - 17-19 knots, sea builds
“…it is time for a two reef mainsail…” Tanya on, Crew turns Sahula into the steep sea, waves wash the foredeck. Skipper works at mast to lower the mainsail to second reef point.
Sail tears at a lower mast slide. It sends a message to Skipper - Is it time for a new mainsail? (2004 - 2016?).
Crew needs more engine power to turn to wind, wind howls, waves flood the deck.
It is done, Skipper moves to protective Doghouse to reef in the sail to outer boom. Sahula steadies, running, rolling west. Valerie takes control.
Crew returns to galley; bread is again on the way.
The mainsail made by Lex Pryor Sails, Townsville, Australia is superbly created. It has stood Sahula well, over 8 years of global cruising.
SSB radio contact is always dependent on the yachts radio set up, the radio voice of the user, and the receiving yachts quality of reception.
Often a womens higher pitch voice is more clearly heard than a low pitch male. When this is obvious yachts should us only the female voice. It happens rarely!??
Skipper is grateful however, for the decision of Net Controllers to continue the Net till the last boat registered is in port. The last boat will be Sahula by a week.
It is a wonderful side of cruising, the joy of sailing with a large fleet of adventurers.
Battery power drops to critical levels. Sahula has a wind generator and solar panels. Overcast and calm weather generates minimum power. Yachts use various means of electricity generation - wind generator, solar panels, turning propellor shaft, water impeller towed astern, diesel generator, running ships motor. The easiest are solar panels and wind generator. They are usually quiet and least wearing. However, as with the towed impeller, they are ineffective without wind and boat movement. An impeller restrains the boat, maybe minimally so.
Also the yachts location is critical. In the tropics solar panels are effective, in Europe and Atlantic less so. However, the receptivity of solar panels in low light conditions is amazing.
The other solution is to lessen the need for electricity generation. Modern yachts require large power sources due to increased gadgetry aboard. Some require such large sources that ideal generation conditions cannot ensure adequate supply. A diesel generator is their only solution.
There is no ideal way. Perhaps principles should rule the day. Keep it simple, keep sustainable, all lights LED, use only gadgets critical to navigation safety. Remember that every gadget is a maintenance issue. Cruising is called “…doing maintenance in beautiful places…” Doing less, enjoying beautiful places, is every yachts persons aspiration.
Sahula ’s year destination is New Zealand. A maintenance, overhaul, and replacement, real and possible, list daily grows longer (sails, hull, rig, stove, wind generator etc etc).
Sahula has an increasingly confident young crew. Now reacting instinctively, rather then being unsure and, perhaps, calling Skipper. The passage has yielded a variety of weather and sea conditions, ideal for sea learning.
“…sailors are always vulnerable in a sea capable of instant change. Sailing is freedom at a cost. Sailors should never drop their guard. Focus should be in arriving safely, crew safe, boat undamaged, enjoying the passage…” Diary.
Sahula is a “…capable capsule…” well designed she rides the sea, driving smoothly through all conditions. She engenders confidence.
“Beach House” (Scott, Nicky) “Grib File” reports expected strong winds.
Soon, Sahula is in 25 knots rain squalls, surfing west on steep waves then all is sunshine and clear skies for the remainder of the day. It is weather form, repeated daily.
Skipper colours a sketch for friends on yachts “Esperanza,” “Eliana” and “Kristiane” - “Galapagos Memories.”
Sundowners celebrates: “…less than 1000 nm (some 7 days) to go…!”
Skipper turn to cook the evening meal. “…we’d should use the eggs (two dozen, two weeks in storage), I’ll cook a Sahulian omelette…” Sahula is rolling before 15 -17 knots Trades. Skipper braces in the galley.
Only four yellow eggs break into a bowl, rest are rotten black. A rapid Sahula roll; bowl spills, egg floods the galley. Skipper, omelette frustrated, braces to clean the mess.
Option two, is cold vegetarian left overs (last night) in a bread wrap.
A fishing lure (squid), set astern, provides no meals. Fish meals, much looked forward to, but rare. Skipper changes the lure, different meals, different places!
A large white trawler tramps across Sahula path, reportedly a Japanese per-seiner setting long nets, sweeping the oceans fish. Sahula sees no yellow, net, buoys.
Crew: “…I have decided I need to go home sooner than NZ…I will fly back (to Denmark) in early August (not October)…”
It is a not unexpected decision. Crew must join his other life, family, friends, study, career. Skipper must find a “new” crew to passage to NZ.
At 02.30, running before a light SE’ly, calm sea, west, towards the the moon, Sahula is as a butterfly with silver, yellow wings (poled headsail, reefed mainsail) moving silently, over a golden, sea…
Skipper is reading “The Garden of Evening Mists” - Tan Twan Eng, set in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands, post WWII (then a British colony) during the Communist insurgency. Beautiful written, it evokes deep emotions of destroyed lives confronting an ancient Imperial culture, through the creation of a Japanese garden.
“…Pan Pacific Net this is “Tika”…our position…speed 9 knots…” Tika is a Australian, Outremis 55 (French) catamaran, flying, from a 70 foot mast, a 120 sq.m. “Code Zero” headsail. By far the fastest yacht reported on the Net.
Within two days, all yachts bar Sahula, will be at anchor in Hiva Oa, Marqueses. The Net Controller, generously, opts to continue the Net. However, yachts are scattering to various island anchorages. Skipper joins another Net: Polynesia Magellan Net (8173 mhm) to ensure registration till arrival and weather reports.
Nets are formed by a yachts person willing to take administration. They come and they go depending on need and willingness to continue. There basic role is to assist yachts in trouble by daily registering their position and providing technical assistance. It is also social, allowing yachts to know about another crew and interact.
Skipper observes however they can become “clubs,” more social than serious rescue, e.g. when registering yachts don’t give Lat and Long but an anchorage somewhere, they don’t give weather reports…etc.
They provide an excellent service when run on the standard process, providing full information and weather.
A pineapple and cabbage provide the last of fresh food. Meals will now be rice, pasta with tinned food and spices.
“…I will have a large steak with lots of salad…(on arrival) ”
Mollie (spinnaker) draws Sahula before a 10-12 knot Trade Wind. Sahula flies Mollie for two days and two cloudless, nights. Then all is calm (0230). Dark squall clouds indicate a change.
A Dolphin school plays in Sahula’s wake then surfacing alongside. They are the largest of their specie, yet seen.
A whale, fume spurning, wallows off to port. Sea birds spiral overhead.
Tanya (engine) is on till morning breaks. An increasing SE’ly lifts Crew’s spirits. Sahula runs before a 10 - 12 knot Trade.
A small fish finds the lure. Fresh fish displaces the dinner beans tin.
It is again fine Trade Wind sailing. Sahula, averaging 5 knots should anchor on Friday next. Four days to go. It is the 24th day at sea.
On the 25th, the idyll is beset. An hour to daybreak. Astern dark rain clouds cluster. Skipper prepares Sahula for squall conditions - a reefed, quarter headsail, bimini drain hoses inserted and into buckets, Bimini side plastics in place, wet weather jacket on while waiting at the wheel to assist Valerie (self steering). It rain augers winds, Sahula dips her gunwale, accelerates off steep, breaking seas, Skipper wields the wheel, 25 knots increasing, Sahula careers to Hiva Oa - 6, 7,8 knots…
Then only rain remains, wind drops to 17, 16, 15, to a steady Trade, 12 knots, Valerie takes over, life aboard returns to a balance between boat, wave and sea. Breakfast, pancakes, rest, reading and sunshine. Crew are grateful for any wind driving Sahula the 190 nm to Hiva Oa. Arrival estimated daybreak Saturday. One full day to go.
A black night squall disturbs the peace.
“…we have to drop her (spinnaker)…”
“…she won’t come down…” Crew lifts momentarily off the deck. Skipper rushes forward to assess and provide assistance.
“…we’ll have to drop her…” Skipper, slowly, releases the halyard to the top. Spinnaker billows out, wildly, a thrashing pennant, beyond grasp.
“…can you reach it…”
“…reach up, reach up…”
“…I am…”
Skipper rushes to the wheel to bring the bow to wind allowing Crew to reach it. The critical issue is that sail not go under the hull, wrapping around the propellor.
“…pull it in…pull it in… keep it out of the water…”
Skipper lowers the pole, disengages the sail end. Chaos is relieved, calm engaged, relief expressed.
“…I was sweating up there…” Crew
The long sea voyage takes its Sahulian toll, human and in material. The toilet hose pipe plastic loop fractures. Salt water no longer flows into the toilet. The SSB radio stops transmitting preventing contact on the Pacific Net, Winlink isn’t connecting to shore stations, radar stops transmitting a picture, AIS may not be registering shipping, Navtex does not give relevant weather reports, the mainsail tears, allowing only a two reefed mainsail, constant snapping damages the Yankee sun protection strip - unexpected breakdowns/maintenance requiring fixing at a major port, probably Papeete, Tahiti. Age, long use, take their toll. Till then crew make do. None are vital to Sahula’s safety or security. Life at sea requires self reliance.
Sahula has used one full fresh water tank (200 litres) with three (150 litres each) to go; part of 12 kg Gas cylinder, 40 litres of fuel. Fresh water is saved by using salt water in all but drinking, cooking and bathing. Rarely using the oven, conserving gas at the cooker plates, ensure two12 kg gas cylinders lasts for some 6 months or longer. Tanya uses 2-3 litres at 1800 rev’s. Motoring with sails drawing saves fuel.
“…I am find myself unsettled (with port reality beckoning)…after before having an organised day…” Crew go through various stages on a long voyage, from initially unsettled to organised to again unsettled…
Crew wonders whether during their isolation, if the world has changed. Some 27 days; a mere nothing in universal time.
Critical to a long sea passage is the relationship between crew. Skipper has been fortunate in engaging crew. Over 8 years cruising and some nine crew, only two have not worked out. Skipper finds, on long passages, young males of varying nationalities, inexperienced, keen, intelligent, educated, a successful combination. Usually Skipper meets them beforehand or they are known to friends or family. Sahula can accomodate 6 persons, however on long passages two persons i.e. one crew, ensure the optimum use of space.
Morning dawns, calm seas, low swell, a light, 10 knot SE’ly. Mollie is set. Wind drops, 3-4-5 knots speed.
“…we will sail…Tanya maybe on the last sector along the Island…”
At an average of 5 knots, Sahula’s ETA (estimated time of arrival) is Saturday morning - tomorrow. Expectation is rife, a blue mountainous horizon imagined.
A ruby, mauve sky - a golden red sunset - Sundowners before port is accompanied with Louis Armstrong’s, “What a Wonderful World.”
“…I’ll prepare dinner…pull in the fishing line…”
Shout from astern “…we have a fish…a large fish…” A meter long “Wahoo” is hauled aboard. The largest fish ever, caught from Sahula.
Dinner (and more to follow) includes succulent, white fish, cooked in Isabela Island, fresh, “Troya” farm, lemon juice.
Hiva Oa is 35 miles distant.
Tanya drives Sahula to port. Fine, sunny day, Sahula passes Monotani Island, houses dot the green cliffs and shore of Hiva Oa. Sahula enters Atuona port. There is ample room. Esperanza, Modessa, only remain of the Galapagos fleet. Thomas offers to buy fresh baguettes. Florian of Esperanza provides advice on life here.
Two Manta rays swim by Sahula the wide mouths fixed to vacuum the harbour. A remarkable sight.
High above, spectacular green cliffs, shrouded in cloud form an ancient volcanic rim
Florian invites crew on a jungle trek. Crew trek the jungle, finding fresh fruit, a cool creek swim, a petrograph of a bygone Polynesia.
A shower ashore freshens crew. An evening of music, local food on the wharf. A long, deep nights sleep.
“…you must attend church… for the singing…”
Crew and Skipper attend the service, full to brimming, the singing in Polynesian is superb. Women in colourful floral dresses and flower crowns, rich deep voices of the men combine for religious theatre.
Next Passage Report No.129 - French Polynesia - Marqueses.
Best
David
sv Sahula
French Polynesia
Sunday 22nd May 2016