Long boat ride, and Lounging in Luang Prabang - Luang Prabang, Laos
Luang Prabang, Laos
The slow boat 3 day Mekong River Cruise should not be advertised as a cruise. The trip turned into a memorable experience. The mini bus quite comfortable. We stopped in Chiang Rai see Wat Rong Khun. Strikingly different from the other Wat's we have visited over the past few months. Instead of gold, it was intricately decorated in silver filigree and other embellishments. The structure itself white, the sun dancing off the silver, the building looked like a sparkling cloud against the vivid blue sky. Various gold designs and structures could be seen out side of the main building. Then we headed to Chiang Krong to stay over night at the border. The hotel we got dropped off at looked full of neglect, while the edges of the building almost derelict. Later that night while searching for snacks to tide us over for the long boat ride the following day we heard the locals refer to it as the prison camp hotel. After a minuscule breakfast portion of a slice of bread, a cold half of one scrambled egg and sugary instant coffee we hoped onto the first minivan to the boarder crossing. The crossing fairly uneventful for us, with our pre issued visas we ended up splitting a beer Laos at 9:30 at a restaurant across form the Laos side of the boarder, while waiting for the rest of our tour group to shuffle through. Then we hop on a boat, across the river to the Laos boarder. Once we are all through we get Into another bus to a local restaurant area, we wait around again. We are asked to hand our passports over in mass, to get our tickets for the boat and our seat numbers. We were wary but caved into the peer pressure. We eventually get them back brought back by a random guy in a plastic bag. We then head to the boat. Assigned seats were a joke as they load people on. We end up in the engine room in the backed a different boat than the one we had on our ticket because the other was too full. Once the boat roared to life the sound from the engine is defending, the vibrations rattle through the ground up through the plastic chairs and through our bones, the exhaust wafting through the back engine cabin. Then with a wave over from the little boy at the very back of the boat the few of us left in the engine cabin, who didn't opt for sitting in the isle of the already stuffed front area, move to the back area. The back area the kitchen of the family that owns the boat. We lift our plastic chairs up the two stairs to the back and plop down. Less noisy than the engine room but still loud, the open air sides allow great views and lots of room to stretch our legs. A serious up grade from steerage cabin by the engine room, it felt a bit like Titanic with no Rose to show us the highlife of first class. However, the back area was I think one of the best seating options on the boat with lots of room to spread out, wind on your face and great views in three directions. We stop at a local village beside the, Mekong in Laos for our second night. The room better than our first. We pile into the back of a truck, with the other people signed up for the Mekong river cruise option B with accommodation and meals covered. We ride up the hill a short ways to our hostel for the night. With no wifi at the hotel we go to the restaurant across the way for dinner, the only place in the vicinity that has wifi. We order teas and dinner, I try coconut and chicken stir fry, Ann- Marie a chicken noodle soup. We sit with a couple we met on the boat Erin and Garret, chatting about our days experience at our corresponding seat accommodations on the boat. We then turn in early heading to the room to read. Early the next morning we order breakfast at the hotel, thinking it is included in our cruise fee as was outlined when we paid. Unfortunately, that was not the case. We paid for our reasonably good banana pancakes and teas before luging our bags down the hill to the boat a full hour and a half before instructed to ensure better seating options. We manage to get seats in the front with tallisa a friend we re connected with on the boat from cave lodge and Erin and Garret. The boat finally pushed off at 9:30am the start time of a longer day than the last on the river. The Mekong a chocolate brown colour swirling over jutting rocks along the way. Sheer cliffs, a marble of grey, red and white crop up around the rivers edge in places, other mountains can be seen into the distance. Stopping a few times to pick up locals and drop them off further down stream. When we ferried over to the side of the river swinging the back of the boat into the shore I expected another local stop of people getting on and off. Nope, we have arrived at Luang Prabang boat dock. The word dock is loosely used, as the exit onto shore was a two by eight plank of wood perched between the boat and the red dirt shore. Our bags in the last group to be taken off the boat we swung them on to our backs and shuffled up the dirt bank and further up some steep stairs. Getting a ticket for a tuk tuk into the main part of town, we pile in with others from the boat including a young couple and their 2 year old daughter. Impressive feat traveling in this part of the world with such a young family addition. We had next to no idea where we were when we get dropped off, we decide to look down a side street close by. Dumb luck does some times happen. We find our hostel less then a block down the side road, with Ann-Marie's name posted on a sign out front. We are greeted, "sabadee!" After removing our shoes on the steps we are led to our room up the stairs. After the mixed experience of Laos so far we were unsure of what to expect. The room turned out to be lovely. Dark wood panels for the doors. An inlayed roof design, with an artful mosquito net hanging over the bed. A glass sliding door into the bathroom. A separate room for the shower and toilet. Air-conditioning, and a fan. We wandered the streets for dinner, finding a local restaurant full of people after a few blocks. Getting delicious glass noodle, chicken Laos soup for dinner really hit the spot after a full day of travel. Our first day in Luang Prabang, We spearhead our day with the goal to just wander the streets. Discovering the city by passing many Wat's along the way, along with a booming population of monks. The atmosphere in Luang Prabang is quite relaxed. The streets quite clean, the people friendly. The roads even paved, often with red bricks lining the walkways or creating paths. After finding a place for breakfast we just meandered. Wandering through the market area, and finding the touristy more expensive strip. We inquired at a few places about doing an elephant mahout (elephant driver) trip. Then in the afternoon did some research online and made a plan for the next few weeks. Realizing that our Vietnam visa is not valid until the 3rd of December we sorted out what to do with so much time in Laos and not as much time as we realized in Vietnam. Eventually we came to the decision to travel down Loas and then stick to the southern portion of Vietnam to save us extensive travel time. Sad to not being going to Halong Bay or Hanoi, but you can't see and do everything when traveling. After feeling more prepared witha rough plan sorted out we ended up walking along the river, watching the sun go down. Stopping at a restaurant over looking the river for a beer and a good chat. After finding dinner in a cheaper part of town, we meandered through the night market. I purchased a ring made from the bombs embedded in the land during the Vietnam war. The locals have learnt how to diffuse them and make beautiful jewelry out of metal that was intended for destruction and death. Feeling the money crunch after reviewing what I still need to pay for in the next few months of travel I resisted the Urge to make any more purchases. Maybe, a few gifts will be bought for friends and family back home in the next few days once the feeling of tightening the purse strings lessens with time. We ended up eating at a street buffet just off a side street near the market, where you choose your veggies/noodles/ rice and then it gets dropped into a hot wok, heated and cooked in a broth and served to you back on your plate. Sitting at the low to the ground street tables with other tourists and locals alike, we enjoyed our dinner right in the hustle and bustle of the night scene in Luang Prabang. We decided to take our hotel owner up on the breakfast suggestion the next day at his uncles hotel just down the road. The menu had listed French toast with Maple syrup. A heavy French influence in the area, allowed me to believe the option of French toast, the maple syrup is an exciting addition. We order it. Sadly maple syrup is Laos code for honey. And French toast just means French bread deep fried. Delicious, and strikingly similar to a corn fritter in taste. We walk back to the elephant place we decided on, and book our two day trip. Then as the sun has finally burnt off some of the cloud cover of the morning we decide to hike up Mount Phousi. It is Luang Prabang’s Holy Mountain where you will find the 20 meter high Wat Chomsi stupa at the top after we climbed 328 steps, zigzagging up the mountain. The 360 degree views from the top were amazing. Over looking the entire town, the chocolate brown Mekong and the greens tinged water of the Nam a Khan river can be seen winding through the lush green jungle and the tile roofs out into the horizon. We went down the hill on the opposing side, wandering past the Buddha statues for each day of the week. Then lower down past the monks living quarters, coming back reasonably flat ground by dharma market. Relaxing in the afternoon we met up with a few girls from the slow boat trip for dinner. We went with them to another street buffet, this time not heated but tons of variety. Trying dill and chili noodles, bamboo, curried potatoes with papaya, morning glory, bok Choy, green beans, cooked kale, and a few noodles. We topped off our experience sharing a beer Lao between me and Ann-Marie. We then marched off in our little group to see a Laos fashion show hi lighting both traditional Laos clothing styles of the area, along with more modern clothing. The show was amazing. Following the fashion segment, some young men of the area came out, placing cardboard and tile onto the stage before showcasing their skills at breakdancing. Unlike the straight faced you back home trying to look serious and tough, the guys were all smiles, cheering one another on, and calling them out when they missed a move. We slept in, went to a place called Jorma bakery and cafe. It was like stepping back into a coffee shop back home. Concrete walls, paintings hung up around the place. Menu consisting of, things like Greek salad, or a sundried tomato bagel with cream cheese, and salmon, or cinnamon buns, London fogs, lattes, cappuccino's, and chai lattes. After eating a day old half price spinach pastry we ventured onto the street to barter for a tuk tuk. With a price bounced back and forth we finally settled and headed to Kuang Si waterfalls, and the bear conservation centre. The waterfalls were amazing. The sun burning through the morning clouds while we were in transport. The upper falls huge and spectacular, water spraying and sparkling in the sun, a rainbow arching over the bottom through try mist. A few monks lingering around the base of the falls for a little while. We then followed the falls down, over numerous ledges, revealing aquamarine pale blue pools before falling over the next ledge. Towards the bottom of the chain of smaller falls we found e swimming area. Surprisingly the luxurious view of the pool disturbed by only ten our so other swimmers. With many moments of hesitation I braved the rope swing off a tree on the waters edge, and after many more moments of uncertainty I jumped out into the open air swinging into the blue water. Initially brisk, once my body was slightly numbed it was a great swim and float around. While getting a few photographs, I realized the water had fish in it, as they darted into my legs. A bit surprising at first but harmless. After me and Ann-Marie dried off and changed we made our way with or little group to the bear conservation enclosures. The bears playful and happy in the warm sun falling between the jungle canopy high above. The enclosure had both Asiatic Black bears as well as Sun bears. Both are often hunted. And used for stomach bike for Chinese medicines and are worth a small fortune on the black market. Deng and Kayasin two of the bears are god friends, one a playful climber the other more of the boss of the enclosure, looking out for him. We then took our tuk tuk back into town and Got some soup for lunch then had a chill afternoon resting before meeting Tallisa, Erin and Garret for dinner by the market. After dinner we ended back at the fashion show, the tail end of the fashion segment just in time for the breakdancing part. This time with seats right up close to the stage. The best place to see the young guys big smiles. After a drink or two with our group meeting and chatting to some men from Russia playing guitar, and auzzie and a couple from the Neatherlands, we headed back to our room and packed for the next few day adventure with Elephants!