Sail Croatia - One of the best weeks of our lives! - Split, Croatia
Split, Croatia
Where I stayed
On a boat
Sail Croatia
One of the bucket list things to do for any antipodean living in London is to get on a sail boat and cruise around Croatia drinking their beer, eating their seafood and soaking up their amazing sun. We booked this baby way back in December 2012 knowing full well that these tours are popular and for the month of August they are generally sold out. It is unbelievably cheap. About 700 pounds got Shell and I 7 nights accommodation on the boat, 2 meals a day, some of the best sunsets and as many chances to jump off the boat as we like... Amazing value really and you can see why the whole concept is popular for the Australian and New Zealanders of London who have been so sun deprived.
Day 1
Our 6am flight from Lisbon to Split went smoothly and soon enough we were wondering around the streets in 30 degree heat trying to find our hostel for the night. Sure enough we weren't actually staying in a hostel of sorts but someone’s actual apartment! It was good for a change to have a big TV and a decent bathroom but a little bit weird as it was somebody’s home. We got a traditional Croatian meal for dinner (some kind of meat in some bread with some spices) and a gelati.
All you could hear was the sound of Australians and Kiwis either excited for the sailing trip to leave the next day or the drained tired voices of the ones who were on their final night of the tour. Big props to the crew on these boats who hardly get time off over the Summer. One tour gets off the boat at 9am after a week of sailing and the next tour jumps right on afterwards for another week.
Day 2
After boarding our 'A' category cruiser at Split harbour we have our lunch on board, we cruise in the tranquil waters of the Adriatic. We depart for Hvar, but not before we anchor for a swimming stop and your rst chance to jump off the boat! Hvar is Croatia’s premier island, which is known as the sunniest island in the Adriatic – receiving on average 2,724 hours of sunshine a year; it is famous for its lavender, sage, rosemary and wine. It is also well known for its beaches, nightlife and celebrity draw – thanks to Prince Harry’s antics at one of the famous outdoor clubs; and more recently was named one of the top destinations in 2012. After an orientation walk, sample some fresh cuisine at any number of restaurants, and then get ready to party with the elite as we hit the local bars and clubs...
Its always a bit weird the morning of a tour. You are hoping you get some decent people to talk to on the boat. These are the people you are stuck with for the next 7 days in such a confined space and you want some interesting people with good chat and can sink a lot of ****. We headed to a local cafe where we would meet our group. We got there a bit early and immediately met a group of cool aussies and one of their girlfriends who was from Sweden who we knew we would get along with. There was about 13 of us in total. We knew we weren’t the only ones going on the boat. Then all of a sudden a group of 20 New Zealanders rocked up and all i could hear was "Fush and Chups". This group of New Zealanders would stick together the whole trip. We would try to mingle into their group but they wouldn’t have a bar of it. At the time we thought it was going to ruin our tour. But it turned out for the best as now we would only get to know the 11 others and not worry about the NZ's
We jumped on the boat at around noon and set sail. Already someone was running late so they had to turn the boat around after 5 minutes and pick up another NZ girl. Anyways we got stuck into the beers and we were out in the open sea soon enough. The ship was great. Our rooms were tiny, which didn’t matter as it turned out because we were only going to be getting a few hours sleep there. It had a bar, massive speakers for tunes and sunbeds all over the deck. The captain was a big fella who lived on the boat with his missus and son. There was also a chef and his missus, a bar tender and a couple of other young fellas to help on the boat. The captain said his speech which was very intimidating and included the rules
1. No alcohol to be bought on the ship
2. No strangers sleeping on the ship (if you know what I mean)
3. No jumping off the back of the boat
And he also warned us to be careful at night as it can get pretty dodgy around the area. The boat then stopped and we had an opportunity to jump off the boat for the first time. Anyone who knows me will know that I love jumping off ****. This was awesome! I lost count how many times I did it over the week but it must of nearly been 100.
We docked up at Hvar and the amount of yachts and cruise liners there was incredible. This is where the money is! That night I had the most amazing fish cooked in a paper bag with vegetables. Not cheap but *******n it was good. After this we got absolutely hammered in the clubs of Hvar and returned to our boat at about 3am which was leaving only a couple of hours later. The boats ar docked up like this | | | | | so sometimes you could actually have to walk across 3 or 4 boats just to get to your own. Jumping across from one to another one of the Aussie girls misjumped and nearly fell through. Luckily her shin saved her. ******* it looked like it hurt!
Day 2
Make sure you are back on board after a big night in Hvar, as we set sail early this morning headed for Mljet, an island covered by forests and dotted by fields, vineyards and small villages. Time Magazine placed Mljet among the ten most beautiful islands in the world, and according to legend, this is where Odysseus got trapped for seven years with his lover Calypso – though locals believe it is the natural beauty of Mljet that charmed him. One third of the island was declared a National Park in 1960 and you have the afternoon to visit the salt lakes here, swim, kayak, cycle or scoot around the enchanting island.
Not a great first night sleep on the boat. It was hot and rocky and we found out the majority of the people sleept on deck on the sunbeds as it was just to uncomfortable in their small rooms. It was a relaxing day today and we opted not to go into the island. The boat docked up next to the island in some of the most crystal clear blue water you will ever see. All of the New Zealanders went to the island so it was good just jumping off the boat, swimming around, fishing and sinking bulk frothys. Ash a big fella from Sydney managed to snag a few fish but they were about the size of tadpoles.
That night was the pirate party. We we got dressed up in pirate gear and drank cocktails with a massive mixed grill while the sunset. A great night. A lot of people managed to bring alcohol with them on the boat (a big no no) so could easily get smashed. We on the other hand didn’t so had to buy all of our drinks. Which weren’t cheap mind you. And as the boat was anchored in the middle of no where, there was no supermarket in sight to go get a cheap bottle of vodka. So it was a little hard to get into but still had a cracking night and ended up in bed at 1.
Day 3
This morning we are headed for 'pearl of the Adriatic’ – Dubrovnik! Much of the history of Dubrovnik can be characterised by its intact city walls, which run uninterrupted for 1940 meters encircling the city. This complex structure is one of the most beautiful and strongest fortified systems in Europe; it is the main attraction to the city’s visitors. We arrive in the early afternoon, and after lunch our tour leader takes us into the old town for an orientation walk. The afternoon is yours free to explore; walk the city walls, wander through the marble streets, soak up some rays on the beach and maybe enjoy an ice cold beer taking in the view of the glistening Adriatic. In the evening we can indulge in some fresh seafood, before seeing what the Dubrovnik nightlife has in store – party in a 13th Century fortress anyone?
Another day in paradise. Another 30 degree day. And another day where we wouldn’t see a single cloud. **** when down the night before after we went to bed we found out between our group and the New Zealanders. There were a few words said between some of the girls and the divide between the group was even bigger. So Kiz (our tour leader and absolute legend) decided we had to do speed dating so everyone could mingle and get to know each other. It wasn’t that bad of an idea and worked really well.
We stayed a bit south of Dubrovnik so had to catch a bus into town. The city is just stunning. We ended up at a bar which you have to walk through a hole in the old town wall. You can jump off the cliffs and that there. A very cool spot. We then had an amazing tour with a lady who had lived through the war that went on there and she had lost family members and friends in it. You forget that that **** went on in our lifetimes. It was only 20 years ago that the breakup of Yugoslavia happened. Its a shame they don’t teach you more about it in history in Australia because it is all very interesting. Ill try and explain some bits about it in my next blog about Bosnia.
We then had free time in which Shell and I headed up on the cable car to get a view of Dubrovnik. Absoluteltly stunning views and you could see tiny islands dotted in the ocean for miles. It was then time to head back to the boat and get our drink on. That night we headed out to the famous bucket bar where you drink cocktails out of sand buckets. Then moved onto a nightclub in the actual old wall which was very cool. Another very boozy night and for some reason we decided to walk back to the boat which took a good 2 hours.
Day 4
Today we sail to Korcula town, the birthplace of Marco Polo. Korcula is graced with indented coves, rolling hills and a walled old town that resembles a miniature Dubrovnik. After an orientation walk you can wander the streets checking out the markets and many hand-made jewellery shops, visit the spot where Marco Polo lived, or grab a cocktail in a bar located at the top of the old city tower for some phenomenal views.
Another day.. Another day of jumping off the boat and boozing. That night we visited a cool cocktail bar in an old tower than witnessed another amazing sunset (probably the best I have seen) while we ate dinner and listened to some acoustic covers from a band. A good chilled night off the sherberts.
Day 5
Makarska is a popular resort town on the mainland, and has the Biokovo mountain range as a stunning backdrop. After a brief orientation walk you have the afternoon to lie on the beach, get involved in some water sports – like parasailing, jet skiing, or just enjoy some of the many cafes, bars and restauarants that line the 1500m long beach. At night get ready to go ‘Deep’ as we head out to party in a cave!
This was probably our favourite town on the tour. Just really laid back and good fun. The mountains in the backdrop to the city look so fake and when you are doing the watersports there it is one of those moments where you have to pinch yourself and let yourself know how lucky you are to be doing these things. First we got on the tubes, then Shell had a ride on a flying fish with some other girls then it was my choice. A big inflatable wipeout thing with trampolines, swings and a slingshot sort of thing. The best fun and so cheap for an hour. Deb and Gordy if you are reading this. We need to invest in one for the front of the shack!
That night we had pizza and fish on the beach and yep.. you guessed it watched an amazing sunset. This time we would get stuck into the predrinks. Learn some amazing drinking games. Shell would have tequila which we all know from the Vegas blog does not end well. And I would end up on top of the boat at 5.30am with the sun rising with absolutely no recollection about what happened in the previous 12 hours. ******* i wish i remember the nightclub in a cave. It sounded amazing!
Day 6
Today, we depart for swimming at different bays along the Dalmatian coast before arriving in the island of Brac. This island is a spectacular panoramic landscape – it is the largest, driest and also contains the most astonishing mountains of all Croatian islands. It is also where the famous beach Zlatni Rat is, the shape of this beach visibly shifts with the changes in tide, currents and wind, veering out into sea 634m long.
The beach here is pretty cool. But you really need to see photographs from above to see how cool it really is. I sort of wish we went parasailing here so I could put a photo up but you couldn’t even do that there. Anyways we relaxed on the beach for most of the day then I went wine tasting to kick the drinking side of things off later in the day. I still don’t get wine. I can taste a really **** cheap one (goon) but anything out of a bottle I cant tell if it is an expensive or cheap one. Maybe one day...
That night was a trash bag party where the girls did a brilliant job of looking amazing with black and blue trash bags. There was also a talent show which I was a part of the winning team building a 4 man high pyramid with the NZ boys.
Day 7
Another fantastic day is awaiting us. This morning we cruise along the coast and rest for another swimming and lunch break at one of the amazing coastal beaches. After soaking up the sun, enjoying the relaxing atmosphere and finishing the final pages of your novel, we arrive in Split. In the 4th Century the Roman Emperor Diocletian built a palace here as a retirement home; today you will find many restaurants and shops housed within its remains. A free afternoon and evening gives you a chance to explore this buzzing city, pick up some final souvenirs from the markets, watch the world go by with a coffee in one of the numerous cafes along the promenade and your last chance to top up that tan on the beach.
Today we had the option to go white water rafting and canyoning.. We knew we would regret it if we didnt. So we forked out the 45 Euro and headed off on a drive for a few hours. It was a really cool day the rapids werent that exciting but we got to climb through caves of amazingly fresh water (It was about 6 degrees celcius and the plums are still thawing out as I write this blog) we also got to jump off cliffs and the scenery was pretty special as you can see by the photos. Our guide was brilliant too..
At one stage the river come to a Y.. so you could go left or right.. we were vearing off to the left and our guide started screaming at the other boat "Help Help" and the other guide said.. "Dont go that way it is way to dangerous" and then started yelling at each other in Croatian.. Our guide screamed at us "Paddle RIGHT RIGHT RIGHT" we started panicking and Shell yelled at me "YOUR PADDLING THE WRONG WAY ALEX!!!" and everyone set off in a panic when we eventualy drifted to the left... The guide then started ******* himself laughing at us. Talk about winding us up! A brilliant trick!
The 6 full on days of drinking had an effect on me and I couldn’t stomach another beer that night so we chilled and played a few games on the boat. We also paid our tab for the week which came to about $550 and included 60 beers. Around 10 a day for those of you playing at home.
Day 8
We said goodbye to our amazing new friends one of which decided to jump on a 9.30am bus and come to Mostar in Bosnia with us..
It didn’t matter that that group of NZ’s come in the end. The tour is what you make it. And we probably wouldn’t have gotten so close to the other Aussies with we had to get to know all 30 people on the boat. It was one of the best weeks of my life and I hope one day I can get a crew from OZ over so we can do it together!