France 2014 - Carcassonne, France
Carcassonne, France
Day 1 PDX to Honfleur, France.. The second longest day. The story is too long to blog, but suffice it to say that after a mad dash at SeaTac only to then wait an hour due to security concerns our great Delta flight landed at CDG 20 minutes early. Lovely weather, and an easy escape from CDG in our rental car. Took about 2+ hours to drive to Honfleur which is a completely charming coastal town spared from serious WWII damage. Very crowded this Saturday, but still a pleasure to stroll through. Had a wonderful lunch at a small bistro, great crepes from a small stand and excellent salads for dinner on the harbor. Very tired, of course -- no sleep on the flight, but caught a short nap between lunch and dinner at our simple but very adequate motel. A few pix below. Will try to add to this blog every few days..... Sept 28 Honfleur to Bayeux -- after breakfast in Honfleur and a challenging, steep walk up to a viewpoint overlooking the town, La Havre, and the English Channel, we took a slow drive down the coast to Bayeux. Two great stops en route. First was the memorial for the Pegasus Bridge. The capture of this bridge by British and Canadian forces, who arrived by parachute and glider, was crucial to the Allied invasion of "Fortress Europe". The memorial is very well done, and the replica of the bridge is interesting. But even better was the Memorial at Caen. It is a historian's delight, with loads of information on how the outcome of WWI essentially made WWII inevitable. Much information on the Eastern Front, an excellent short video on D-Day, the odious story of the Holocaust and the German "race purification" program, etc. by the end of our 3+ hour visit we were emotionally exhausted. We then drove to Bayeux and settled in to our very comfortable and quiet lodgings. Bayeux is a beautiful city, with a magnificent cathedral. Tomorrow we will spend considerable time at D-Day sites and then visit the Tapestry. Normandy is wonderful, and the weather has been most cooperative! Sept 29 Bayeux -- another long, very interesting day. After breakfast we drove to Arromanches, and learned about the construction of "Port Winston,". A harbor was needed in Normandy to provide logistical support for the invading allies. The Germans had massive protection at all the established ports so the clever Brits designed and built a new one!! A genius engineering and "construction" effort, completed an 11 days. We trudged up to a 360 surround flick on the first 100 days of the invasion...impressive but really LOUD. From Arromanches we drove west to the Amercan Cemetery and visitors center, our experience was emotionally moving....it is a truly beautiful sight. We did walk down to the beach, and tried to imagine what those GIs saw as they waded ashore. Heroic understates it all. We got back to Bayeux in time to visit the Tapestry. Gave me a chance to recite what I learned way back in 6th grade in Vancouver about 1066 and all that. Tonight we are footsore and pooped. 9/30 St. Malo -- our pleasant trip took a turn for the worse. While descending from a viewing platform at Pointe du Hoc, Diane turned her left ankle on a rock and took a tumble. The results -- swollen ankle, skinned hand, bruised elbow, and bruised lower back!, she is soldiering on and after finally getting some sleep last night is feeling a bit better. We have decided to stay a second night at our comfortable hotel inside the ramparts of St. Malo and take a leisure day. Our tour yesterday of the German War Memorial cemetery, Utah Beach, St. Mere Eglise, St-Come-du-Mont, Pointe du Hoc, and another small village important to the invasion was excellent. Danielle, our guide, was excellent -- many tidbits, historical corrections..... The drive to St. Malo was beautiful -- we did a drive by of Mont St. Michel, but we're too pooped and I sufficiently uninterested to consider a tour. Finding our hotel in St. Malo was a huge challenge....Via Michelin directions that were waaaay off. But with one stop at a bar for directions we found the ramparts and eventually our quiet abode. Walked to a nice restaurant for dinner and then came home and crashed! Today we will explore St. Malo and walk the ramparts. Tomorrow we will drive to a small village in the Loire Valley via Dinan. 10/1 -- St. Malo was quite a high point of the trip...so far! Yesterday we spent the morning on the ramparts, enjoying the homages to Jacque Cartier and other sailors from the area who explored North America. The ramparts are reminiscent of Dubrovnic, but feel more formidable. We meandered the cobblestone streets and despite our gimpiness took a very long walk to Alet, a quaint village across the harbor from St. Malo. Our hosts at the hotel were very nice and exceedingly helpful. We would recommend St. Malo and our lodging wholeheartedly. 10/2 -- We are now in Azay-Le-Rideau, a charming small village in the Loire Valley. About a 3.5 hour drive, mostly easy! Our hotel, the Biencourt truly IS as was claimed in our Rick Steves guide. On first impression, if we were to move to a small village in France, this one would sure be a candidate!! 10/3 -- Azay-Le-Rideau to Mortemart -- Another summary from sunny (84 degrees!) France. Yesterday we got Diane some pain med for her back and sadly left Azay. At the suggestion of Sue Porter, we visited the gardens at Chateau Villandry. Fabulous! Diane solved the maze, I stared at the carp, and we both were stunned by the detailed beauty of Villandry. On the way to Mortemart we experienced a spot of trouble. Just as we were exiting the interstate at Chivigny, a warning light came on with the message "Fluide Vidange!!!" Having no idea what that meant, and with the Renault manual entirely in French we lost an hour plus before we tracked down an auto shop, where we were told that the oil needs to be changed....sometime!! The next challenge was finding Mortemart, which is REALLY tiny and off the beaten path. With help from a TI in Bellac we got here and have enjoyed staying in a former convent. Just the spot for sin-free souls like us. Ray, our host, is a Brit with a hefty Cockney accent. He is one heck of a cook, and we enjoyed our best meal in France last evening (ham omelette, salmon fillet on jullianed veggies, both in a rich sauce, crispy potatoes, local cheeses, and a insomnia inducing chocolate orange granach)! Tomorrow we soldier on to Puy L'eveque to join the Balls and Viehls for the next several days. The great weather may be deteriorating a bit but we hope to canoe, take some gentle hikes....and drink! 10/4 Puy L'Eveque -- We began our day with a very sobering visit to Oradour-sur-Glane. On 6/10/44, the Waffen SS murdered everyone they found in the village, over 600 men, women and children, for reasons that are still unclear. DeGaulle insisted that the village be preserved in its post-war condition and even on a sunny October day it is a sobering place to be. Just so very sad and awful, what one human can do to another human. We then had a long drive south to Puy L'eveque where we connected in town with the Balls and Viehls. The house we rented is far from town, and really isolated. The place is large, old, musty, but with charm and a pleasant vista. Drew, a British neighbor stopped by while we were dining in, and gave us tips for day trips. Being here for five more nights might prove daunting! Stay tuned..... 10/5 Puy L'Eveque -- We drove north to Cazal to take in a market. Fun experience...bought roast chickens and spuds for a house dinner. Then on to Sarlat for a delicious Sunday "dinner", and on to Lauscaux II for our cave experience. Dined in but not on the chicken., after a long driving day we were content and still full from supper so we snacked and enjoyed French wine! It is so very lovely here, and the weather has been cooperative. While we are enjoying our time in the Dordogne/Lot regions with Balls and Viehls, we want to see more of France, as we are not likely to get back here.We will leave Puy on Wednesday morning toward Albi and Carcassonne. 10/6 Puy L'Eveque -- Yesterday we drove north to see the castle forts at Beynac and Castlenaud. Both were very impressive. It is hard to believe that in the era, without sophisticated engineering and equipment they constructed these amazing edifices way up on cliffs. We also took a relatively brief but interesting cruise on the Dordogne, on a replica of the wood boats that plied the rivers in the Middle Ages. We returned to Puy and had a grand chicken, taters, and veggie dinner -- with ample libations. 10/7 Puy L'Eveque -- Today we drove south and east, thru Cahors to St, Cirq Lapopie, a stunningly beautiful medieval village way up high with grand views of the Lot valley. After lunch in Caraberet, we went to the caves at Pech Mere. Di, Robb, and Julie took the tour of the cave art, which was conducted entirely in French. Jane, Larry and I rested. On the way back to Puy, "Francoise", Larry's GPS guide, got us totally lost in Cahors. Tense times, but now we can laugh! Dining in again....I need to stop typing and go drink with the gang!! 10/8 Albi -- this morning we bid adieu to the Balls and Viehls and headed south and east. Our first target was St. Antonio en Noble Val, where The 100 Foot Journey was filmed. It is a truly medieval city, and Diane found it charming. I was crushed because I saw none of the filming sites. (At the TI they said only Yanks and Aussies ask about the filming.). After lunch there we drove on to Albi through beautiful agricultural land, dotted with bast ides. (We have yet to actually GO to a Bastille, but.....), Just outside Noble Val we stopped at a viewpoint. A young man was doing a high wire crossing of a VERY deep chasm. Fortunately he had a safety harness, as he had some bobbles while we were watching! Before reaching Albi we stopped to see Cordes sur Ciel, another amazing medieval hill town. Took a trolley up to the top and strolled the streets. Many shops were closed, as the tourist season has passed. Lucky for us! We enjoyed a soft drink at the Panoramanique, which afforded incredible valley views. Albi is a wonderful good sized city. Our hotel was comfortable and quiet, and Diane was able to soak her still aching back in a big bath tub! We got an excellent, well earned rest! 10/9 Carcassonne -- tonight I am catching up the blog on the terrace of our room, looking across at the walls of Carcassonne...a spectacular view. We started the day in Albi. After a quick breakfast, we walked to the nearby heart of the old town, so Di could add minutes to her Orange SIM card. We happened upon Les Fines Gueules, a highly recommended deli, and made lunch reservation. We then hoofed it down to the Musee Toulouse Lautrec, and took a too hurried tour of same. We split up and were to meet for lunch at noon. I got very, very, lost but did find the restaurant eventually. After a fabulous lunch, we drove the slooooow route to Carcassonne. Finding our lodging was a challenge, but here we are on the terrace, dining on Trader Joe's cashews and tater chips --- too pooped to go out. Tomorrow the ramparts of Carcassonne will be breached! 10/10 Carcassonne -- exciting electrical storm last night complemented the beautifully lit walls of La Cite. Odd that there was tons of lightening flashes, but virtually no thunder. We slept fairly well, although I corked off so early I awoke before 4! After breakfast-- Coco Puffs! frosted Flakes! Some actual good stuff, we trudged up to La Cite and used Rick Steve's suggested walk. The walled city of Carcassonne is an amazing structure but a mixed blessing. On one hand is a good cathedral and big time chateau. On the other is all the kitsch -- even a torture museum and a haunted house!! We enjoyed our stroll and a nice lunch at Adelaide, recommended by both Steves and our hostess, but are looking forward to leaving the city and going to a small village in the Pyrennes tomorrow. Resting right, and likely will walk to the river soon, then back up to La Cite for drinks and people watching... 10/11 Galey -- we did finish off yesterday with a stroll down to the rather plain river, then trudged back up to the ramparts for a drink in the courtyard of the bar in Hotel La Cite. Lovely spot, pricey drinks. We returned to our lodging and decided to have a light dinner at the bistro next door....La Travaille. It was excellent! Wonderful starter salads for both of us. Each had two very delicate puff pastries backed with Camembert cheese filling. Yum! Diane had spaghetti with langoustines and I have sautéed veal with mushrooms, We both had a poor night of sleep. Got packed, loaded the car and went in for our coca puffs and frosted flake breakfast. Les Florentines is well located and the rooms are quite comfortable, but service was as poor as the breakfasts! We then had a beautiful drive to Saint Girons, in the foothills of the Pyrenees. We happened upon its huge market, which we loved strolling through. Several buskers, including a duo comprised of a Django guitarist and a juggler on a unicycle. After lunch by the river, we did a quick tour of St, Lizer --- where every single shop and site was closed. We then had a hunt for our current lodging -- L'Ancienne Bergerie, which is very remote and very fabulous! Two Brits, Becca and Kevin Banks have lovingly restored an old stone barn, which overlooks a great vista. Our room is spacious, cool, and most comfortable. Becca is cooking dinner for us and the other two guests. We are on the deck now, listening to sheep, goats, and cowbells, and below us are two tiny villages. (The inn is in Galey, should you choose to try to take a peek!)