Mt. Pulag: Climbing Luzon’s Highest Peak - Kabayan, Philippines
Kabayan, Philippines
Where I stayed
Camp 2
What I did
Mossy Forest
Grassland
Pine Forest
Mt. Pulag: Climbing Luzon's Highest Peak
Few months ago, Pamangkhenz mountaineering club, scheduled a climb to Luzon’s highest peak, Mt. Pulag. That time, I was still hesitant to join because first, I have asthma and second, I am not into mountaineering. But at the back of my mind, if I am going to climb a mountain for the first time, it is not my plan to scale as high as Mt. Pulag.
Days and months passed. One Sunday in the month of October this year, I, Agnes, and her brother Rommel went to Kuta Outdoor Shop in Paco, Manila owned by their cousin Albert. There they discussed the planned climb. As I listened, I came to think of joining this adventure- perhaps a once in a lifetime experience. After all, it was my wish before to climb Mt. Pulag. I would also like to test my endurance climbing a mountain for the first time. And it will be a great first because it will be the majestic Pulag.
Before that day ended, I decided to join. The next Saturday, I and Agnes went again to Paco. There we were joined by her cousins Kaye and Elai. Later that afternoon, Avileen and AJ arrived. They discussed again their plan including the things to bring. I was quite worried that evening because I was thinking of my budget given that I do not have a backpack yet and it’s expensive to buy one.
The scheduled climb is from November 1-4 which was later moved to November 2 because of the All Saints Day. It just happened that I am on leave on Nov. 1 and 2 and it will be my rest day the following two days. If this is not the case, probably I will not be able to join or worst, be absent and face the consequences once I return to work.
The departure time on 2 Nov was 10pm at the Victory Liner terminal in Pasay City. Assembly time was 9pm. Agnes, Avileen, AJ, and I arrived there early since we initially thought we will be leaving by 9pm. Earlier that night, the four of us prepared things to be used on our assigned chore- dinner the next day on Pulag’s camp 2 where we will spend our night.
Just before 10pm, the rest of the team arrived. They were Tito Onchie, Tita Vicky, Tita Leny (the most senior in our group), Elai, Kaye, Aaron, Aimee, Ronald (Aimee’s husband), Randel (Ronald’s brother), and Albert (our team leader). Randel probably was the most excited or just punctual because he arrived the earliest.
About five or ten minutes before ten, we started the six-hour trip to Baguio City, the nation’s summer capital. There we will ride a rented jeepney to the office of the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) in Ambangeg and to Pulag’s Ranger station via the Baguio-Ambuklao Road.
We arrived in Baguio at around 4am of 3 Nov. We immediately got our backpacks at the compartment of the bus and to our dismay, some of them were wet. It’s not because of water but fish sauce spilled from one of the baggage! What a welcome!
We stayed at Victory’s waiting area while we were waiting for our service. Instead of relaxing, resting, and feeling the cool weather, we were busy cleaning our backpacks. We sprayed cologne to our bags just to neutralize the smell. I even used my handkerchief and bath soap just to clean mine, somehow.
To reward myself, I bought a cup of strawberry taho (bean curd). Baguio and perhaps the surrounding towns are the only places in the country that sells this kind of taho because of the abundance of strawberries in the area. The nearby town of La Trinidad is where you could find the famous strawberry fields.
Ten minutes before 5am, our service arrived and we started our long, rugged, and bumpy ride to DENR office in Ambangeg. There, we will register and buy souvenirs. Our team leader Albert told us that our trip will take 4-6 hours. However, the trip did not take that long. It only took us just over three hours.
A long stretch of the road was already paved and the construction was still ongoing. Perhaps that was the reason why we reached Ambangeg faster than expected. While we were on our way, we noticed the stunning view of the Cordillera mountain range while enjoying the sunny but cool weather.
It was literally a long and winding road with fantastic views, pristine forest, and clean rivers. I also remember that we stopped over a spring where one of our guides filled his pet bottle for drinking.
The most stunning and majestic view of all while we were on our way to Ambangeg was the Ambuklao dam and Hydroelectric Plant. Built in 1956, it is one of two dams in that portion of the Cordilleras that plays an important role in the people and economy of its environs. The other is the Binga dam.
The dam is the first hydroelectric power plant in the Philippines and the primary source of water from the Agno River. It is found in the municipality of Bokod, Benguet which is 36 kilometers away from Baguio City. It is the biggest rock-filled dam in Asia of its time.
We were awed when we had our first glance of the dam from afar. As we near, we could hear the rumblings of the water cascading from the lake above to the river below. The road leading to Ambangeg directly crosses its top and when we reached it, we wasted no time. We took lots of pictures and simply had fun. The locals were also selling their morning catch- fresh tilapia!
Our driver and his men were already hungry at that time and were scheduled to eat their breakfast at a roadside restaurant cum bus stop also in Bokod. So we continued our journey in the winding but paved road leading to the DENR office. Some infrastructure works were still ongoing.
That restaurant is Jangjang. It’s nestled beside a road between a cliff and a river below. The ambience was simple yet cozy and the people were very welcoming. They even allowed us to use their hot water for our noodles. The place also has a clean and unique restroom.
About ten minutes from Jangjang, we saw a long hanging bridge connecting both sides of the wide river. We stopped over and again, took pictures.
DENR Station, Bokod, Benguet
We arrived at the DENR office pass 8 that morning. It was an office cum prayer house because we learned that a Christian group was using its conference hall for their activities. We registered and bought souvenir T-shirts. Pictures, identification cards, and certificates of previous climbers were on display at the office.
We watched a video on mountaineering do’s and don’ts inside the conference hall. After that, we were briefed by DENR-Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) Superintendent Amerita A. Tamiray about their rules and regulations.
Before Supt. Tamiray started the briefing, she explained first that the musical instruments inside the hall were being used by the Christian group allowed to use it for their services. Then, she said something that caught my attention. Leo Oracion, the first Filipino believed to climb Mt. Everest was there! I was excited and eager to see him.
With Leo Oracion
I was one of the last to exit the hall after the briefing. I saw Elai and AJ seating outside. To my left, I saw Supt. Tamiray talking to Leo and two more friends. I did not think twice. I told Elai and AJ, "Magpa-picture kaya tayo?" They nodded and said, “Oo nga no!”
I wasted no time and immediately approached Leo. With a handshake, I told him, “Thanks for giving honor to the country.”
“Thank you, thank you,” he replied.
“Pwede po bang magpa-picture?”
“Sure, sure,” he said, smiling.
Tita Vicky was behind me and said, “Kami din, Kami din.”
Some of us sat, some stood and with smiles and obvious happiness, photographs were taken. What a stroke of luck and a great opportunity for the group.
A controversy on who really was the first Filipino Everest summiteer
Leo Oracion, touted to be the first Filipino to reach the summit of Mount Everest, is officially listed on the Himalayan Database published by the American Alpine Club as the second Filipino Everest summiteer. He’s recognized as the 2,740th summiteer. A member of the First Philippine Mount Everest Expedition (FPMEE) team, he reached the top of the said mountain on 17 May 2006.
On the other hand, Dale Abenojar was listed by the Himalayan database as the first Filipino to reach the top of Mt. Everest as recognized by the veteran Himalayan expedition chronicler Elizabeth Hawley. He’s the 2,614th summiteer. He reached the peak on 15 May 2006, two days before Oracion. He was certified by China Tibet Mountaineering Association on 20 May 2006.
The two other Filipinos who made it were Erwin Emata and Romy Garduce. Emata, also from FPMEE reached the summit on 18 May 2006 while Garduce reached it the next day. Oracion, Emata, and Garduce used the South Nepal route while Abenojar used the North Col route.
Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man to summit Mt Everest congratulated Oracion, Emata, and Garduce for their success.
3 Nov 9 AM
We left the DENR office to the Ranger Station with high hopes. It was a rocky, bumpy road with steep ravines just inches from the side of the road. It’s a good thing that our driver was very experienced. To best describe it, it was like riding the Rialto in Enchanted Kingdom with you bumping each other and your heads often hitting the handle bar and the ceiling of the jeepney.
Our group arrived at the Ranger Station after two hours. We stayed at a quaint, medium-sized house provided for the mountaineers. We met our two guides there.
People who were assigned to prepare lunch did their assignment. Soon after, we ate our much-deserved lunch after a long and tiring trip. After that would be the start of our trek.
In the Know
There are at least three camps in Mt. Pulag. We spent our night in Camp 2 before our summit assault early the next day using the Ambangeg to Ambangeg route or the executive trail. The other trails to the summit are the Akiki trail which is much longer and more difficult, Tawangan, and Ambaguio from Nueva Ecija.
To those using the executive trail, Camp 1 is a just a stop off and resting point. There is a small hut there where climbers can sit, chat, and relax while having a short break en route to camp 2.
1 PM: Started trekking with our two guides
We walked through a one-way rough road that leads to a densely-forested area. From that point would be the start of an all-ascent trek to Camp 1.
While trekking, I could not deny the fact that the view and the general environment were really excellent. As a matter of fact, I could not count the times I uttered the word fantastic.
I have noted some observations:
Vegetable farms- the terrain on this part of the country is hilly and mountainous that is why farming is being done on the mountain sides. The design and form differs from that of the famous rice terraces.
Steep and deep ravines- a road etched on a mountain side means that you need to watch your steps especially on narrow parts.
Slippery, muddy trail- a recent downpour made the dirt road slippery so utmost care must be exercised to avoid slipping and getting soiled.
Narrow pathways- you have to watch your steps specially the rocks or stones you’re walking on are loose.
Slash-and-burn farming- traces of this illegal activity can be seen in the area. I asked one of our guides about this and he told me this is no longer being practiced today.
Logging- I saw a freshly-cut tree beside the dirt road. I asked our guide again and he told me that at some point, they were allowed to do this.
It took us two hours to reach Camp 1, arriving there at around 3PM. The camp has a small area with a hut used for resting. It was quite raining when we arrived there. One of our guides did not mind it and sat on the grass. I sat beside him to have a chat. I am always been interested with the culture and history of the people of the Cordilleras so I did not hesitate to start a conversation.
His name is Lino. According to him, he is a member of the Kalanguya tribe, a group found in the provinces of Benguet, Ifugao, Nueva Ecija, and some portions of Pangasinan. We talked about canao (ritual), tapuey (rice wine), mummies (me-king), and the rice terraces (pay-yo).
Camp 1 to Camp 2: Walking through the mossy forest
The first time I saw Mt. Pulag was on TV. It was featured on one of the episodes of the now defunct ABS-CBN show Magandang Gabi Bayan. It was also featured by the network’s other program Sports Unlimited.
I was intrigued and awed by the scenes of the misty and mossy forest as well as the different flora of the National Park. My dream of going there was started by those feelings as well as my curiosity and excitement of being to a place as beautiful as Mt. Pulag. At first, I thought it was impossible. Then this opportunity came. A dream come-true not only for me but also to the rest of the group.
The trek took us two hours to reach camp 2, arriving there at around 5PM. It was fun. The trail was a narrow strip surrounded by lush vegetation with the exception of wider paths at some points. I enjoyed seeing moss-covered trees, beautiful flora, hearing the sound of streams, of birds chirping, and feeling the blow of the cool wind.
Camp 2: Grassland
It was an abrupt change in the environment upon reaching Camp 2. It was like entering to a new place in split seconds. The grassland welcomed us as we exited the mossy forest. The view and the place itself were breath-taking and it was very windy.
We set up our tents there, ate lunch, and slept early to prepare for the summit assault at 3:30AM the next day.
A watershed can be found in the area for the water supply of the climbers but only our guides were allowed to go there to avoid contamination. Eco-friendly comfort rooms were few meters away from the camping area. Galvanized iron served as walls and surrounded by pines trees and different plant species.
As the sun set, I, Agnes, AJ, and Avileen prepared food for dinner. I cooked a vegetable dish which I thought awful and horrible. It has a mediocre taste and I myself, did not like it- a proof that I don’t really cook.
We slept after dinner. It was a cold and windy night. We used layers of clothes, jackets, and socks to no avail. It was a restless sleep. We woke up once in a while because we were shivering uncontrollably. I did not bring my gloves so I improvised one by using my spare socks.
There was a small hut in the area where our guides slept.
Day 3: Summit Assault
Our wake-up call was 3:30 PM, just in time to witness the sunrise on top of the mountain. Some of us were hesitant to continue because of the cold weather. But eventually, we all geared up and started our trek at 4 AM. We were accompanied by our guide Lino; the other remained to look for our things.
On a cold, rainy, and windy Pulag morning, we trekked slowly to the summit. The trek lasted for more than two hours, arriving at the summit at around 6:15 AM.
The hike was dangerous because of the strong winds accompanied by downpours that made the path slippery. Added to those were the deep ravines. One wrong move or step could mean disaster.
Because of the weather, we could no longer feel at times our hands. They turn numbed and the moist from our bonnets almost turned to ice crystals. Even so, we never failed to take photos on this extraordinary weather on this extraordinary climb.
As we reached Camp 3, we saw a hill nearby and thought it was already the summit. We actually passed many hills before we reached the peak.
Agnes and I were tag team partners most of the time. The team was incidentally separated to three to four members in a group as we hike along the narrow path.
After an hour and a half walk, Aimee appeared from a distance behind us. She was separated with her group and was walking alone for quite some time. She was relieved when she saw us.
We joined Albert’s group thereafter and moved for the final push on two steep slopes leading to the summit, arriving there pass 6AM. It was a happy, bitter-sweet moment.
We reached the summit cold and wet and our hands were numb. Strong winds still blowing. Agnes and I sat beside the dwarf bamboo while AJ and company started to heat water and cook a simple breakfast. The heat from the hot pan was no help to our numb hands. Even if we put our hands on it, still it could do nothing.
The last group to arrive was that of Tita Vicky and Tito Onchie. Many climbers were already there when we arrived. A female mountaineer from another group was sitting near us, shaking badly. If her situation worsened, she could suffer hypothermia. Her friends never stopped talking to her and always telling her not to sleep.
Before we started our descent, we sipped hot water, ate instant noodles, and took pictures. One guy from another group told us to leave the summit immediately due to the stormy weather. We previously planned to have our photos taken with the marker placed there by a mountaineering group. That marker was no longer there because another group destroyed it. Their reason for destroying it is the mountaineer’s credo, “Take nothing but pictures. Kill nothing but time. Leave nothing but footprints.”
The sky was overcast with the sun showing at times. The view of the mountains from the summit showed once and it lasted for a few seconds. We also did not see the sunrise because we arrived there late. And even if we arrived there on time, we won’t still see it because of the bad weather. We descended from the summit at around 7 AM.
Our guide said the temperature at that time could be 5 degrees Celsius.
In the Know
During the climb, we did not know that there was a typhoon hitting that part of the country. Typhoon Kabayan (international name Peipah) was actually lashing the Cordilleras and the province of Beguet was under storm signal number 3. That was the reason why the weather was stormy.
Day 3: 8 AM
The group arrived at Camp 2 from the summit at around 8 AM. We ate again upon arriving at the camp. After that, we dismantled our tents and prepared our things for our trek back to Camp 1 and to the Ranger Station. We left Camp 2 at around 11:30 AM, rested at Camp 1 for quite some time and proceeded to the Ranger Station. We ate our lunch there. Before leaving, some of us took a bath without thinking of the cold water they will be using. We left the Ranger Station amidst heavy fog and low clouds. The visibility was almost zero.
2:30 PM- To Kabayan, Benguet
We left for Kabayan with some Akiki trail guides. Our main purpose there was to visit the Kabayan Museum which houses an Ibaloi mummy and artifacts from the rich culture of the different tribes of the Cordilleras specially the Ibalois.
It was a two-hour bumpy ride on a paved and dirt road. It was a long and winding road. Site to behold along the way include at least a waterfall, vegetable farms, and rivers.
We arrived at the Kabayan Museum at around 4:30 PM. We registered and each gave a P15.00 donation. A mummy is displayed inside with a reconstruction of her head on how she looked when she was still alive.
It has always been a dream for me to visit this museum. The first time I saw it was on cable TV. The Discovery Channel featured it in a program entitled “Fire Mummies of the Philippines.” That show featured how the head of the mummy was reconstructed in the U. S. State of Wyoming. Kabayan and the mummies were also featured before on the National Geographic Channel’s “The Mummy Road Show.” In fact, the photos of the host were also on display inside the museum.
Aside from the mummy, other items displayed inside include artifacts that range from burial cloths of the rich and poor, primitive kitchen wares, body ornaments, weapons, and other Ibaloi tribal relics. Old photos of the tribesmen were also on display inside and on the walls outside in the porch area.
The view outside of the museum was great. A mountain served as a backdrop while the streams sang in chorus to serenade the visitors. As with other museums, taking photographs inside is prohibited.
The group stayed there for thirty minutes and left for the DENR station in Bokod where we would log out. Aside from that, Supt. Tamiray will be riding with us to Baguio. Again, it was a long, winding, and bumpy trip.
Bokod to Baguio
We arrive at the DENR station at around 6:30 PM. Supt. Tamiray boarded the jeepney immediately and we started our two-hour ride back to civilisation. We were in a hurry because we’re catching our 9:50 PM trip to Manila. We still had time when we arrived in Baguio so there was still time to eat dinner in SM and buy pasalubong. We went back to Victory Liner terminal just in time for our scheduled trip.
What an amazing adventure. Kudos to all!
Postscript
A funny experience to laugh about. Avileen was chased upon by a cow halfway through the Ranger Station on our way down from Camp 1. They played a short game of patintero. She eventually used her leg power to escape.
Mt. Pulag National Park
Mount Pulag, 9,586 ft above sea level, is the highest mountain in Luzon and the third highest in the Philippines next to Mt. Apo in Davao and Mt. Dulang-dulang in Bukidnon. It is found in the municipalities of Buguias and Kabayan in Benguet, Kiangan in Ifugao, and Kayapa in Nueva Vizcaya. A large portion of the Mountain was declared a National Park in 1987 through Proclamation No.75 which aims to preserve and protect the mountain from threats such as conversion to agricultural land, logging, wildlife hunting, and the booming tourism. The mountain covers 11,550 hectares. It is also under the Cordillera Biogeographic Zone and a National integrated Protected Areas Program (NIPAP) site. Its climate is tropical with rains occurring mostly the whole year. It is characterized by a pine forest below the mossy forest which is found on the lower elevations. Camps 2, 3, and the summit is covered with dwarf bamboo plants and grass.
The mountain is also rich in flora and fauna with 528 documented plant species including the endemic dwarf bamboo (Yushania niitakayamensis) and the Benguet Pine (Pinus insularis). There are also 33 native bird species and other animals such as the Luzon Pygmy Fruit Bat (Otopteropus cartilagonodus), giant bushy-tailed cloud rat (Crateromys schadenbergi), and the Philippine Brown Deer (Cervus mariannus). Some species are also considered to be near-threatened. Those are the whiskered pitta (pita kocri), Luzon-water redstart (rhyacomis bicolor), flame-breasted fruit-dove (ptinopus marchei), long-tailed bush warbler (bradypterus caudatus), white-browed jungle fly catcher (rhinomyias insignis), Luzon scops-owl (otus longicornis), chestnut-faced babbler (stachyris white headi), and wild boar.
Mt. Pulag is sacred to the indigenous people of Benguet.
It is also important to note the ff:
Rosy-cheeked kids- This is the effect of the highland weather- cool if not cold.
Galvanized iron homes- The reason could be economical, weather-related or could be anything else.
Tombs beside homes- Indicates close family ties even in death. Their mountainous geography and the far distances of houses may have played an important factor for them not to have a common cemetery. Perhaps, it is just their norm or custom. This practice is also being done in other parts of the Cordilleras.
Cloud-veiled mountains- The breath-taking view of the sea of clouds amazes everyone. It is a sight to behold for. (2007)
Pictures to follow once cellphone is fixed.