Cooktown & the Great Green Way - Cooktown, Australia
Cooktown, Australia
The drive from Cairns to the Daintree is one of those great drives. It's impressively scenic, creates an infectious holiday mood and almost demands to be driven in a convertible. We settled for wide open windows, groovy music and fresh sea air as we drove alongside rainforest clad mountains and the Coral Sea. Nearing Port Douglas the stunning views gave way to cane fields and fertile farming land, where an abundance of tropical fruits grow wild. Deciding to stop into Port Douglas on our return, we continued onto nearby Wonga Beach, packed some tenting necessities and stored the van. The weather has started to turn, is overcast and the air is full, with the imminence of rain. These changing weather conditions have cast a different and more rugged light on the pristine beaches and waterways, robbing us of that postcard perfect turquoise ocean view we have been anticipating. Wonga Beach was fringed by coconut and palm trees which swayed in the blustery winds, white caps gave the ocean an uninviting opaqueness and the sand, a mixture of pumice and glittery coarse granules resembled gold. Wishful thinking!
Setting off early we headed for the pocket sized Daintree Village, skipping it's main attraction, a crocodile spotting cruise down the Daintree River. With little to see we boarded the nearby car ferry and made the short crossing into the Daintree National Park. The Daintree is an ecologically unique rainforest containing the most extensive range of rare or threatened plants and animals on earth. At 1200 square kilometers the tropical rainforest serves as a living museum of ancient flora and fauna. It is known for its exceptional scenery, where forests, valleys, gorges, ranges and rivers exist undisturbed, where the tropical rainforest meets the pristine coastline, where fringing coral reefs lay offshore. The process of information gathering and blogging about the different areas we've had the good fortune to have visited has resulted in a general feeling of amazement, stupefaction at the almighty, immense and diverse size of this giant country with its animals, beaches, forests, gorges, lakes, mountain ranges and eye shattering landscapes. Surely there could be no other place on earth that rivals Australia's diversity.
A few minutes into the rainforest drive and we pulled into the Alexandra Range lookout where the views, albeit hindered by grey skies were spectacular. We looked over the rainforest and Mount Alexandra ranges towards the coast, making out sights such as Snapper Island, the mouth of the Daintree River and Shipwreck Bay. After another short drive we pulled into the first of three recommended boardwalks, the Jindalba Boardwalk. The easy walk took us through damp lowland tropical rainforest, dominated by king ferns and cycads. Continuing on we were surprised at the multitude of businesses, tours, shops, cafés and homes dotted along the lush tree lined roads. Stopping at the Daintree ice-creamery we sampled some of their homegrown fruit flavoured ice creams and strolled around the orchard investigating exotic fruit trees such as Sapote, Carambola, Sapodilla and Posh Te. The second boardwalk Dubuji displayed another section of the rainforest, a fascinating lattice like tree, mangroves and unusual swamp insects. Windy roads, dense rain forests and glorious beach coves made for a spectacular days drive. However grey skies continued to threaten so we pulled into the Cape Tribulation campsite, preparing to set up camp for the night. However time was against us and the rain arrived, making its presence felt. It bucketed down, turning the camp ground into a swamp. We waited it out, wondering if we'd just welcomed in the wet season, passing the time with a night of wine, cheese and pizza! Hours later we dashed out into the easing rain, taking up Min and Graeme's offer to sleep in the campers spare room, falling asleep, snug as proverbial bugs, in the deluge. Having last heard rain six months ago it was quite a novelty. We were however, glad of the mornings' blue skies and headed to the last boardwalk where we looked over beautiful Cape Tribulation. Rangers advised us to take care on the 4WD track as heavy rain can make the water crossings treacherous. Heading their advice we left the sealed road behind, embarking on the Bloomfield Track which connects the Daintree to Cooktown. This road was the subject of a passionate blockade and protesters lost their battle to preserve this untouched wilderness but brought international attention to their cause, resulting in the area being declared a world heritage site. The track makes two creek and one river crossing, passes a number of communities and joins the inland sealed route to Cooktown. The first crossing was ankle deep, the second Woobadda, was a bit slutchy but we passed without incident. Travelling through the Donovan and Cowie Ranges required some sharp climbs and sheer descents, some reached over 25%. Stopping on top of the final rise we peered down into the wide river and spotted a huge 5m salt water crocodile basking on the banks. It was exciting to finally spot one in the wild but terrifying to realise it was in the river we were yet to cross. It was also a bit of a reality check, as seeing it makes the crocodiles presence indubitable. Bloomfield River is the largest water crossing on the track and whilst workers are in the early stages of building a bridge, the traditional causeway crossing is the only option. Arriving at the river we were equally alarmed at the speed of the water and the unclear depth markers. Water was pounding down the 100m wide causeway, creating a mini waterfall effect. The road workers decided to become our support crew and lined up to watch us crossing. Gulping down some nerves we took off, trying not to think about getting swept down the crocodile infested river. Seconds later water was lapping the bottom of the windscreen but we plowed through, finally taking a breath on the other side. The workers told us they had machinery on what had been a dry crossing that morning, but last nights deluge caused the river to rise over 800mm in a few hours. Scary stuff! It however made the nearby Bloomfiled Falls the most spectacular we've seen to date.
Another hours drive and we arrived at the Lions Den Hotel, a fair dinkum historic Aussie outback pub, which offers bush camping on the grassy banks of the Annan River. It was the perfect spot to camp and we sat under the stars watching a few Bandicoots darting amongst the long grass before we hit the hay. Shortly after leaving the Lions Den we joined the main sealed road into Cooktown and realised the Bloomfield track had been relatively easy going, bar the hair raising river crossing! Cooktown is a small historic coastal town, famously known as the place where Captain Cook beached his ship 'Endeavour' for repairs in 1770. Wandering around the less than impressive Botanical Gardens we decided to head to the wharf for lunch and a spot of fishing. A picnic table was conveniently located under the shade of a mango tree, which happened to drop fruit every minute or so. Lunch was followed by a smorgasbord of fresh tasty and free mangos, heaven! The nearby wharf seemed to be the local fishing hotspot and we watched one guy pull in a huge Queenie and Min followed with a smaller catch. Sadly they were the only success stories, but we still managed to eat fresh fish for dinner. A professional fishing boat docked and was loaded with fresh mouth watering coral trout, ready to be shipped to China. We bought a huge coral trout for 'mates rates' and added a couple of kilos of prawns to our loot! Deciding to camp at Archers Point we travelled about 20km, before arriving at a slice of remote paradise. Camping meters from the beach we explored the tracks, fished, relaxed, made multiple attempts at knocking coconuts off the trees, found chunks of pumice on the beach and gave our feet some well deserved heel treatment. The views from the disused Archer Point Lighthouse were spectacular and we spotted schools of fish and turtles as they swum by. This place is a sublime camp spot, one we were reluctant to leave.
Heading back to Cooktown we stumbled on the local markets and gorged ourselves on freshly made divine Thai food, bought star apples and home made cordial, chatted to the friendly locals, visited Grassy Hill lookout and some local beaches before heading 'home'. Cooktown punches well above its small size as a friendly, tropical fishing and holidaying hotspot. Its natural beauty, location and welcoming feel give it a magnetic appeal that's hard to leave.
The return inland route was tedious, only broken by the striking drive through Mt Molloy, where green country gave way to undulating mountain ranges and we glimpsed stunning panoramic ocean views as we headed back to the coast. Port Douglas beckoned and we obliged. We were struck by its luxurious resorts, it's colourful tropical exterior, manicured gardens and relaxed holiday vibe. The town square oozes elegance with its upmarket shops and restaurants. A jazz player belted out some funky tunes which drifted across the square, adding to the overall ambience. Port Douglas is a place where you could splash some cash! We checked out the local markets, fell in love with a huge mirror made from recycled rail sleepers and Kenny ogled at the row of Harley's parked outside. If your looking for a resort holiday destination Port Douglas ticks all the boxes.
Our next stop, Lake Tinaroo, is located in the heart of the Atherton Tablelands. Established in the 1950s to supply water to local farmers the dam doubles as a fishing, camping, water sports and recreational hotspot. We've planned to stay a few days and try to land one of the huge Barramundi this lake is renowned for. Exploring Tinaroo and nearby Lakes Eacham and Barrine is also on our agenda. The lake is notorious for being a ski boat paradise, so our well timed Sunday arrival will mean a week of tranquil camping. Selecting one of the many camping areas dotted around the lakes edge, we'd no sooner set up and Kenny was off fishing. However a day of unsuccessful fishing later and Kenny decided to take his frustrations out to the Atherton Mountain Bike Park where he had a blast. The riding opportunities in the more remote regions of Australia have been woeful so Kenny is trying to make up for lost time and fitness. A post ride cool down was in order and we headed to Lake Eacham, one of two volcanically formed local lakes. Eacham is a small, beautiful fresh water lake, perfect for swimming, canoeing and a local favourite. After a quick, refreshing splash we moved onto Lake Barrine which is twice the size but half as inviting. It is perfectly suited to the sedate cruises and Devonshire tea afternoons it offers. Heading back to camp along the pine tree lined dirt tracks we welcomed a slight chill in the night air and whiled away an evening in front of the camp fire. Inquisitive long nosed bandicoots provided the evenings entertainment, as they crept closer to our dinner scraps making squeaking noises and jumping like rabbits when startled. Very cute little critters!As the Barramundi continued to dodge our hooks a tactical decision was made. We needed a boat and found a tinnie for hire nearby. Loading up on soft plastics and all manner of fishing paraphernalia we chugged off, trawling, casting, winding and flicking. We cruised around for hours, trying everything but conceded defeat and returned without a bite. Min and I set opera house traps, trying our luck for a red claw or two yet each day the traps lay empty. Maybe we can blame the rapidly diminishing water levels, as the dam continues to lower its reserves in preparation for the onslaught of rain.
Giving up on the fishing we decided to take a final tour of the area and pulled in at the gigantic Cathedral and Curtain Fig Trees. The trees are a 'strangler fig' and grow when a seed is deposited on the branch of a host tree. This seed germinates, eventually growing long roots which strangle the host tree. The Curtain Figs' host tree toppled over, allowing the strangler vines to grow along the oblique angle of the leaning tree and dangle 15 meters to the ground, creating a spectacular curtain effect. The Cathedral Fig's roots have grown into a mythical labyrinth like formation conjuring up thoughts of a concealed door that leads to a fantasy world! These trees are as magnificent as they are fascinating and well worth a visit.
Heading south marks the beginning of the end, the final stages of our wonderful and epiphanic trip, the completion of our loop. Our last leg will follow the coast, winding our way through beachside towns, plantations, gem fields, rolling hills, small towns, cities and towns where farming, mining and tourism reign. Ten regions await exploration, beginning at North Queensland's Tropical Coast which stretches from Cairns to Townsville and is aptly known as the Great Green Way. Second is an area that speaks for itself, the Whitsunday's which is followed by Mackay, the sugar capital of Australia. Aptly named because of its locale on the Tropic of Capricorn, the Capricorn Coast incorporates Rockhampton, the Central Highlands gem fields and stunning Carnarvon Gorge. The fifth region, Gladstone is a hub of major industry and the stepping off point for the Great Barrier Reef. The Coral Coast is centered around the Bundaberg region and includes the town of Seventeen Seventy. The final four are more familiar areas, The Fraser Coast, Sunshine Coast, Brisbane and the infamous Gold Coast.
With a lot to see we set off down the Cane Cutter Way, via Innisfail. Renowned for its sugar and banana industries it is also one of the wettest places in Australia. Noticing the cyclone shelter we learned of Innisfail's destruction, when Cyclone Larry passed over in 2006. Larry wiped out over 80% of the banana plantations causing an Australia wide banana shortage and price hikes of up to 500%. After a brief lunch stopover along the banks of the Johnson River we moved on as Innisfail seemed to be more of a practical pit stop and gateway to the 42 km scenic Cane Cutter Way. The picturesque drive took us past endless cane, pawpaw and tea fields, skirted lush rain forests and mountain ranges, drove through charismatic old towns and filled the car with fresh country air. Every scene was a beautiful place to rest our eyes upon.
Arriving at laid Back Mission Beach we were disappointed the weather was not on our side. Mission Beach is a sleepy sea side village, perfect for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. With windy and overcast conditions we settled for exploring the nearby beaches including Kurramine Beach where we stumbled on a tropical fruit winery. There are no grapes in sight and all the wines are produced from exotic fruits such as Lychee, Black Sapote and Jaboticaba. Perhaps more of an acquired taste we left empty handed and drove to Tully. Located at the base of the beautiful misty mountains Tully is a major agricultural area with its banana and sugar cane industries. Unfortunately the local sugar mills processing plant turned Tully into a malodorous town, pumping out fumes that were reminiscent of 'sick'. We photographed Tully's huge golden gumboot, which stands at 7.9m tall and marks the record rainfall the town received in 1950. Back at camp we enjoyed perusing the local market before deciding that these sleepy towns are the perfect place to visit for a fish, relax and short getaway.
Continuing south we passed through the towns of Cardwell and Ingham, debating whether to make the trip to Hichinbrook Island. Renowned for being the largest island national park it offers stunning scenery, a pristine and untouched natural beauty and a 32 km, three day hiking trail. The island resort was destroyed in Yasi, which has affected tourism. Whilst it may have been worthwhile if doing the three day hike, today's exorbitant boat and ferry costs ruled out a day trip.
Jourama Falls just out of Ingham was the perfect choice for a few days of camping and exploring. One of the most picturesque national parks we've stayed in, it gave us an ideal base to tackle the mighty Wallaman Falls and explore the remainder of the Paluma Range National Park. Located in the Girringun National Park, Wallaman Falls is the largest sheer drop waterfall in Australia. We've seen the widest, many claiming to be the prettiest and become saturated with waterfalls. This however demanded a look. Climbing a seemingly endless mountain range we arrived at the waterfall lookout, admiring the sheer drop this fall made as it plummeted 305 m into the Herbert River Gorge below. Whilst flowing the falls we're not pumping and a visit during the wet season would increase their spectacularity. Deciding to make the few kilometer trek to the base of the falls we set off, reaching the bottom in no time. Equally impressive from the bottom we took plenty of photos before starting the steep, heart racing, breath stealing climb to the top. After a well deserved cool off under the perfectly located tap we headed back to camp, weary and worked out!
A day trip to the Paluma Range National Park followed the hand built Mt Spec Road. The drive wound through beautiful lush rain forests, passing over the masonry arch bridge at Little Crystal Creek where we stopped for lunch and tried, unsuccessfully to photograph the beautiful iridescent electric blue Ulysses butterfly. Continuing we arrived at the historic village of Paluma and did a couple of short forest walks ever hopeful we'd spot a Cassowary. The cooler climate village was home to a few holiday makers, craft shops and tea houses, but no Cassowaries!
A refreshing morning walk to the trickling Jourama Falls was a perfect start to the day and one of the many luxuries of this trip. Soon after stretching our legs we were back on the road and headed for Townsville and the start of another chapter!