Blown Away by Barcelona - Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona, Spain
This trip has been like a travelling smorgesboard – a taste of Italy, a bit of Turkey, a morsel of Greece, a bit more of Italy and today a mouthful of Spain (– with a nibble of Portugal and Madeira to come finishing off with a range of Brazilian deserts next week!) We spent 6 hours in Barcelona Spain today and metaphorically "stuffed our mouths (as well as our minds, eyes and ears), full", as in the true style of gourmet eating Barcelona was a “gastronomical feast of the senses!” Rome was magnificent and majestic, Istanbul exotic and exciting, Athens was tired, Mykonos stunning and Genoa charming but Barcelona, Barcelona was flamboyant, frivolous, bold and whimsical all at the same time. I think if cities had a gender, Barcelona would definitely be all woman – curved lines bedecked with intricate wrought iron lace-work, mysterious with hidden surprises around each corner. We had chosen to do a tour, billed as Gaudis experience and were met at our bus with the Spanish speakers that we were grouped with today, by our tour guide – he told us the Spanish speaking guide was called Maria Jose, the bus driver Paola Jose and he was simply known as Jose, so we could just call all of them Jose (Pronounced Hosay). Antoni Gaudi is an architect whose creative work has contributed significantly to the artistic avant-gardes of architecture in the 20th century, with the bulk of his creative work taking place in Barcelona, and this tour was to focus primarily on the architectural and artistic legacy he has left in Barcelona. Driving through the streets , I was struck by firstly the number of smokers and secondly the cyclists that were everywhere – all shapes and sizes, no helmets, dressed in an array of outfits against the cold – bright fuschia tights against black and white hounds-tooth skirt, black hair flying – even the people seem to have taken on the flamboyance of their city! Our first drive by was past 2 houses that Gaudi was commissioned to do by wealthy inhabitants of the city in the late 1800/early 1900's - Casa Batllo and Casa Mila. Casa Batllo has sinuous and sensual lines and both buildings have intricate and whimsical carvings and curves in both concrete, sandstone and wrought iron. There are flowers and magical trees, dragons and other mythical creatures entwined around pillars and in places decorated with mosaics, in bold colours of blues and greens and bright orange. The little book I bought about Gaudi describes the Casa Battlo as “an explosion of happiness” and that is exactly what it is. Those of you who know me well, know I love the kids show “ In the Night Garden” with its delightful characters Iggle Piggle, Maca Paca, the Tumbleeboos, Upsey Daisy and not forgetting the Teeney Tiny Pontipines, who live in a magical forest and ride around in a fantastical train called the Ninky Nonk. I think Gaudi would have approved, as his buildings and lampposts would fit right in and would be a childrens delight. I think he must have loved children, as our guide told us later when we went to the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia, that he built a small building as a school, on site for the children of the people who were working on the Basilicas construction. Our first destination was to the Park Guell. The park was originally commissioned by Gaudis patron Eusebi Guell in 1900 as a project to design and develop a residential complex for 60 families as a utopian retreat which interacted with nature, away from the hustle and bustle of the city on the Pelada mountainside. Unfortunately due to the outbreak of WW 1, it never took off and it was eventually acquired by the Barcelona city Council and turned into a public park in 1922. There were street vendors everywhere, but they seemed to be part of an illusion show as I would see them with their spread wares – mosaic lizards and bright beaded bangles, displayed on a square 1x1meter of cream muslin, turn around to draw Marion or Keiths attention to something that had caught my eye, turn back and puff they were no where to be seen – no doubt the vendors spiriting their wares – and themselves to another corner, before being sent on their way by park attendees or the law. There was much to be seen in the park - bridges that looked like giant dinosaur fossils with stalactites and stalacmites hanging beneath them, buildings with turrets and odd shaped windows, gates shaped like butterflies or a field of spikey thistles. Everywhere the multicoloured mosaics or bricks covered with sand to look like raw textured earth. For brevity sake, and yes I am very mindful of how verbose I can be, I will simply describe the bench – a 110meter long bench that snakes in an winding arch and overlooks the park and the city of Barcelona. In the distance we culd see the ocean and the sail like building commissioned by the city, and designed by an American Architect, that we had passed on our way from the dock. In true Gaudi attention to detail style, the bench is functional and designed for comfort, with each curve a kaleidescope of mosaiced tiles. Apparently Gaudi hated straight lines and this is evident in all of the works we saw.
The piece de resistance was kept to last, the Basilica of the Sagrada family. Apparently many tours only do an outside visit but fortunately MSC had arranged for an inside tour as well. Josep Maria Bocabella founder of a religious group called the Devotees to Saint Joseph decided in the late 1800s to fund and erect a temple, known now as the Basilica of the Sagrada family, for the people of Barcelona. The first stone of the Sagrada was laid in 1882 with the purpose expressed in the "Notarial Deed of Ceremony" as follows: “Awake from tepidness those drowsy hearts. May faith exult. Be charitable. Contribute so the Lord takes pity on the country”. I love the first line of that - Awake from tepidness those drowsy hearts – food for thought even in this day and age, where mediocrity is so often the norm! Gaudi was interestingly not the original architect, but became so when the first architect fell out with the management in 1883 and resigned. On first impression, the temple looks like one of those “dribble castles” we used to make on the beach as kids – same colour too- however when one looks closer there is sculpture upon sculpture embedded in the walls and turrets – each of them incredibly detailed, each carefully thought out and part of the overall story. There are 3 facades. The first is completed and was completed by Gaudi. It depicts the Nativity story. The second façade was completed by another architect and in contrast to Gaudis rounded lines is angular and harsh, fitting in some ways as it depicts the Passion or crucifiction – it is not yet complete. The third is yet to be built and involves the demolition of 3 blocks of apartments, built illegally on land designated for the completion of the church by developers, whose thinking at the time was that that the church would never be completed – it will depict the “Glory” or resurrection. Every detail of this extraordinary building has been meticulously thought out by Gaudi, with specific instructions left for its construction. Each façade has 4 parapets or bell towers– 12 in all representing the 12 apostles. Each carries the name and sculpture of the apostle it represents. There are also 4 pinnacles 25 m high. In the centre, the tower which will be the tallest is yet to be built. It will represent Jesus and be taller than anything else in Barcelona. Each bell tower has a different tone and they rung as we were leaving, seeing us on our way. No words can do justice to the detail and symbolism of this place. Looking at it from the outside, left me with a gaping mouth. Inside, was one of those profound and moving "once in a lifetime" experiences. I am almost reluctant to put photographs up or to attempt to describe it as NOTHING can do justice to the real life experience. On board the ship is a sign that says “Life is measured not in minutes but in moments” and going inside the Sagrada Familia was just such a moment. We have seen many unbelieveably beautiful and stirring things on this trip – we gazed in awe at the roof of the Sistine chapel, gasped at the magnificence of the Trevi Fountain, have been blown away by the beauty in the cathedrals, mosques and palaces, been humbled by the scale and brilliance of Ephesus and the Acropolis, but standing inside this place, took my breath away and genuinely moved me to tears! Each time I opened my mouth to say something to Keith, I found I choked up and could not speak. Being inside was like going into “Middle Earth” or the Holy of Holies. It is a place of such ingenuity, brilliance, spirituality, beauty, thoughtfulness and creativity – designed in four dimensions – he must have conceptualized it from the inside out and the outside in. Bottom to top and top to bottom – like a hologram. Every detail of the Bible is captured in the design – if the Bible was a building – this would be it! Around the alter, 4 stained glass lamps – the 4 gospels – Mathew, Mark , Luke and John. Magnificent stained glass windows – designed to catch the light – warm tones of red and yellow on the side the sun rises and cool ones where it sets. Each segment of glass and each pane symbolic and planned in minute detail. Each entrance door contains 8000 bronze characters which narrates the gospel in 36 languages. When closed they function like the pages of a giant New Testament. The main door has only ever been used when the pope visited. I will stop there – and simply say that it was fitting when I was in the gym later and listening to a song by Darlene Zschech from Hillsong church singing 'I Believe the promises that God has made……the presence of God is in this place!!!”, because the presence of God is truely in the Sagrada. A tangible and magnificent presence. If you havent been there, move Sagrada Familia to the top of your bucket list! Gaudi dadly died in 1926 when he was run over by a tram. Apparently he was dressed like a pauper and was taken to the poor peoples hospital. He refused to be moved when it was discovered who he was, and died there 4 days later. The hope is to complete the church by 2026, 100 years after his death!
On a lighter note, we were then driven back to the ship vai parts of the Olympic village past many buildings with neo gothic design. It was formal night again and we all scrubbed up well. Giva and Dizzy looked the perfect couple. Bill of course couldn’t help himself and asked to see Giva, commenting in his strong Scottish broque when he saw him in his black waistcoat and tie that those were ‘good hanging clothes’! Giva fortunately is getting used to his black humor and took it in his stride. I however told him in mental health we have labels for people like him – probably have them for people who travel with monkeys too, but never mind that! Bill is actually delightful and we are enjoying he and Nettas company at dinner – they have travelled to many interesting places and both have a good sense of humor, thank goodness!
Addendum: Im having difficulty uploading photos again tonight - I suggest you google the Sagrada to get an idea of the magnificence of this place in the meantime, and I will try again once close to land with better internet reception.