India #5: City of Shiva and Under the Bodhi Tree - Varanasi, India
Varanasi, India
Varanasi, Sarnath, & Bodhgaya "Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." - Mark Twain on Varanasi And it's only gotten older since then. It's one of the dirtiest cities I've ever seen. And not just in India. I would call it a **** hole, but since it's a religious city, we'll just say it's very filthy. The streets are narrow and crowded, there is **** and trash everywhere, and with the lack of airflow, an over abundance of flies to add to the ambiance. Now, that's just an opening lead in from the above quote, so now to the normal time-driven narrative... India Travel Tip #8: If you're white, they don't check to see if you have a ticket for the shorter train rides. From Khajuraho to Varanasi I booked a train ticket at the station, being the self-assured, experienced, India hand I am. I bought a nice AC sleeper class (first class), which is more expensive, but for 14 hours, I was done riding "economy." We'll, I headed to the tracks in the evening, amazed at how cheap Indian trains are, to realize that between the language barrier and the scrum I was yelling through to the agent across the booking "slit" in the plexi glass window over the crowd of Indians, I booked a 3rd class "sleeping ticket." Not optimal, to say the least. A third class Indian sleeper isn't really a sleeper, they just cram more people on. Riding third class overnight is fine once, and for short rides, not a problem. After almost two months in India, however, lets just say I would rather not. But here I was. So, embracing the culture, I was able to fight for a luggage rack above the seats (only pushing a woman or two, not including the men, out of my way). So at least I had a whole rack for my bag and myself only! Let me tell you, that's a pretty lucky grab. Though it did take a little work to keep when I needed to go to the bathroom. You definitely need to time that so the train is not pulling into or leaving a station. In the end, this ride has made the top 3 most uncomfortable rides of my life. After arriving in Varanasi, I started by trying to find a guesthouse. The price at the first place I checked wasn't bad, until I saw the rooms. I told the guy I would be willing to pay half of what they were asking, he started trying to barter, so I walked out. The next place was very basic, but clean, and only $2.50, for a shared bathroom, hot(ish) water (for about 1 hour a day), "free" wi-if, and a cheap (but clean) restaurant. Which proved to be gastronomically disappointing. In my opinion, Varanasi was the worst place for touts during my time in India (though I did skip a lot of the normal tourist destinations). I don't think it was necessarily because of the quantity, but it was the persistence and the closed quarters of the city. And of course the Old City of Varanasi had a cornucopia of false guides, nice people who just want to show you something out of the kindness of their hearts (there's no sarcasm font on this app, so use your imagination). The Old Town is pretty much a maze, not as bad as the medinas of Morocco, but the streets are filthier. And, as Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in India, there are also a lot of Indian tourists and religious pilgrims. And they walk in large groups, VERY slowly. On the plus side, half the touts are bothering the Indians, and it gives you plenty of people to use as "picks" (a la basketball) when the persistent leeches are chasing after you. Varanasi doesn't have a lot of tourist sights per say, there are some temples, but they're off limits to foreigners. So, it's mostly about experiencing and observing daily life. The activity happens down at the ghats, some are more popular and some quieter. Pilgrims come to bathe in the river and give offerings. There are Hindu holy men there to give blessings, and tourists (Indian and foreign) snapping away their cameras. And, of course, all the boatmen trying to get you to take their boat. There are also several burning ghats, where families cremate the bodies of the deceased (if you die in Varanasi you're supposed to achieve / enter enlightenment). As a foreigner, you can discretely and politely watch the ceremony, but absolutely NO photography unless you want to get attacked by an angry mob the deceased's family. And, of course, once again, there are scam artists here. I ran I to three "types" (aka sorties), all trying to get money for the "wood." The first is a "family member" asking for a donation, as the family is poor and used all their savings. The family is to busy dealing with the funeral, so why is this guy hanging out back by the road with all the tourists? The second is the guy who "works" for an NGO that donates wood to the poor, and could you please give a donation? And lastly is the random guy with some other random story, generally either involving children somehow or a "viewing fee." At least they target Indians and foreigners equally. And of course, as in most of India, is the ubiquitous request for Backsheesh. For my train from Varanasi to Gaya, I went through my guesthouse. They charge a slight fee, but it's convenient and hassle free for me, as I don't need to 1) pay to get to and from the train station (which is more than the service fee anyways) and deal with the crowds and miscommunication. Though part of the art of travel, sometimes you need a break. So, me and the guesthouse owner even had a whole discussion about how I was using his service due to these above reasons, but after getting the ticket he still asked for a tip because he had to go to the train station. I asked what the service fee was for then, and he gets the normal semi-embarrassed 3rd world smile and averted eyes as he asks for a tip again. Now, I'm a tipper, even traveling I have no problem leaving a little something. But I've learned that in someways I will always be an American, and asking for it always puts me off. I did a short trip to Sarnath, near Varanasi. It's the location where Buddha gave his first sermon. And I got to deal with the constant issue of no one ever wanting to give you change (it's your responsibility to always have small bills and the exact price, of course why wouldn't it be?). I'm going to pay the guy to enter the ruins and hand him my bill and he asks if I have a smaller note. I say no. He sighs, takes it, and then says its "too old." And so the stare down begins. I say I have nothing smaller, and I also know he has the change because I watched the four people ahead if me pay. After a slight back and forth, I just walk in and finally he caves in. I also ran out of deodorant. And for those who don't know, evidently it's impossible to find western style deodorant in India. There was plenty of spray on smelly stuff, which doesn't work as an antiperspirant, and I had, lets say, a "local" smell about me for the duration. I headed back to Varanasi and had an early morning train to Gaya. I informed the guy at the guesthouse who assured me it was no problem to leave early (they lock the gates to the doors at night, again, not 5-starring it here). So, I set my alarm for the 2nd time in several months and go to sleep. The next morning I get up, head to the door, and of course the gates lock. I find someone to wake up who unlocks it, and as m getting him a little tip, he of course sticks his hand out and says "backsheesh?" You just blew it buddy... Well, I get to the train station and can't find my train number on the board, so I check the individual platforms, but nope, not there. It briefly crosses my mind that perhaps I should have gave the guy a tip, maybe he was holding something back. So I go to the information counter, fight my way towards the front, and shove my reservation at the guy. My train is delayed "2 hours." It's not on the boards, but he says to just listen to the announcement. If you haven't been in an Indian train station, the PA system is not exactly "new" and they might be speaking English, but we are not speaking the same language. So as it gets closer to "2 hours," I head back towards the information desk. As the only westerner around, I'm pretty noticeable, so before I need to start fighting my way through the line (fighting your way to the front and through people IS forming a line in India), the guy notices me and holds up both hands and shouts "ten thirty!" Another 2 hours to kill. As it gets closer, still not hearing or anything about my train, I decide to walk up and down the tracks and notice a sign with a train number on the train (my train number) different than the sign posted on the platform. I ask the people if this is for Varanasi (literally just asking "Varanasi?"), they nod and say yes (not the enigmatic Indian bobble head nod, but an affirmative up and down), so I get on about 60 seconds before the train pulls out of the station. Bodhgaya is the place where the Buddha achieved enlightenment and is a big Buddhist pilgrimage location. Unlike most of the religious centers in India, however, this one is much more low key. It does not have the plethora of new age travelers (gone native backpackers or middle aged mid-life crisis) like McLeod Ganj and Rishikesh, non of the "capitalist" spiritual exploitation of Rishikesh, nor the overbearing crowds of Haridwar and Varanasi. There are crowds, to be sure, but they're legitimate pilgrims. And spiritual seekers, but it's a quiet and personal crowd. And touts, but not as bad as the above mentioned places. That's not to say the town itself isn't noisy or chaotic, it is India, but it's remained small and relatively uncommercialized. Other than guesthouses, restaurants, and the occasional curio shop, the town is largely based around the Mahabodhi Temple (the main Buddhist temple and key locations regarding the Buddhas enlightenment) and monasteries from various countries. The Mahabodhi Temple has to be the most serene major religious site I've ever been too. It still has crowds, photography, and noise (mostly chanting and religious services), but almost non of the normal ambient noise of tourist crowds. The closest would probably be the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican, but only applies to one part of the complex, unlike the Mahabodhi Temple complex (it contains the main temple, the Bodhi tree where Buddha attained enlightened, a pond, meditation garden, and several other locations of religious importance). But, like every other major religious sights, it has its con artists. This location consists of young "monks" who either a) approach tourists directly and ask for donations for their monasteries (generally to non-western tourists) or b) targeting westerners who they assume have less understanding of the social dynamics, ask to talk, want to meditate with you to help their karma, and yours, and then go into the spiel about needing money for food for the Monastery or books for their studies. When I was approached, interesting,y enough, when I said I didn't have money (which was true, I had enough for breakfast and my entrance fee), I said I would be happy to come by the Monastery later and talk to the monks about their programs in the area and then make a donation (also true, I always leave a donation with a charity or community service group in each country I visit). Suddenly, his Monastery that was close by was very far away...sadly I attract these people when I travel. Experienced as I am, I still look like a young, naive, school boy. In certain aspects of my social life it's great, but not when being targeted by scam artists. I went to the Mahabodhi Temple complex 2-3 times per day during my stay (it's free if you don't bring a camera). It's a constantly different experience during different times of day. You have monks and pilgrims from various schools of Buddhism and countries, who all have different forms of dress and practice, so it runs into a see of color and culture. One day, while meditating under the Bodhi tree, birds ******* on me twice. The Monks didn't know if that was a good or bad omen. Personally, I think if you sit under a tree with a lot of birds in it, you're gonna get ******* on. There's no deeper meaning than that. Huh, look at that wisdom. Maybe this meditation is paying off. I did collect 3 leaves from the Bodhi tree that fell near me while sitting there. This is apparently a big deal as most pilgrims don't get any, and no, the ones the touts sell outside aren't the real ones. In the end, I successfully made it two months budget backpacking in India without getting Delhi belly, hepatitis, or the plague, and only one case of food poisoning. I think this is one of the most amazing accomplishments of my life. From India, it's off too Thailand to visit the Fretwells, and hang out on the beach while I study for the GRE! A lot of talk about grad school the last 6 months but I'm running out of time.