Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp - Pokhara, Nepal
Pokhara, Nepal
By far one of the most amazing, challenging, inspiring adventures. Night 1: Phedi to Dhampus It was a quick night in Pokhara before we realized the election would leave us stranded another day. So we decided to quickly get our trecking permits, pack up and leave. We started the trip with a cab to Phedi and it was dark by the time we started the ascent to our first guesthouse. Halfway up we stopped to watch the full moon rise up over the mountains. The man was there, smiling at us, sending us on our way. We almost didn't need our headlamps as we passed through the rice fields. Then it was up, up, more stairs. Day 1: Dhampus to Himalpani We walked 7 hours along the Modi Khola, over unsteady bridges, through jungle and by waterfalls. Goats, chicken, cow and ox all roaming free. Children play on the side of the dirt roads and always run up asking for chocolate and sweets. They walk along for a bit with me, and then run away. We passed our original target of Landruk, and stopped at a guest house in Himalpani, along the river. We washed our clothes, and I did handstands on the grass. For dinner I had milk tea, and a potato egg dish with yak cheese. The next day will take us by hot springs. Day 2: Himalpani to Chhomrong We got up at sunrise for breakfast of dal baht and left straight away. Dal baht is a traditional Nepali dish of rice, curried vegetables and spicy pickle. They always give you second helpings so it makes a great breakfast. We hiked past New Bridge, up, up, then down to cross the river again. We stopped at the hot springs for a break. There were monkeys on the rocks a little ways down. I crossed the wood bridge to watch the rapids and wait for the sun to warm the rocks. After it was up, up, up an afternoon of stairs to Chhomrong. We sat and talked with other Trekkers there, over milk tea, dal baht and eggs. After I drank some rice wine and watched the moon rise over the mountains. Day 3: Chhomrong to Dobhan We woke up early for stretching and dal baht. From Chhomrong in the morning light, we could see why Machhapuchhare is called Fishtail. The peak splits on top, like the tail of a fish. The first part of the day was down towards the river, past little villages and running into the occasional traffic jam of cows. Past another long suspension bridge, then up, up, up, never ending stairs. The trail flattened out a bit through the jungle and I saw a group of monkeys playing in the trees. It was cold and foggy when we got to Dhoban. I got one of the last single rooms right off the kitchen. The room rate stays the same along the trail but the cost of food increases. I read a bit in the dining area after dinner and listened to conversations in all different languages, people playing cards and eating their warm meals. Tomorrow will be a long way up to MBC. Day 4: Dobhan to Machhapuchhare Base Camp The morning was cold and it was a long day of walking up, up, up. Usually I'm an inspired walker but today my pace was slower. I was on pace with a couple porters who always smiled when they saw me along the along the way. We walked part of the way together. Bestati, bestati, they say. Slowly, slowly. The path flattened out into a beautiful valley along the river, the snow capped mountains ahead and fog rolling into the valley. It was so peaceful, there was no one ahead and no one behind me. It got much colder as I ascended into the fog. From there I was hiking in a cloud, I don't know for how long. When I reached MBC, we had ginger tea with cookies, and I stretched until dinner. Tomorrow we will hike to ABC for sunrise. Day 5: MBC to ABC to Bamboo We woke up at 4 to hike to ABC for sunrise. The mountains in the darkness of the early morning was one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen. The stars were so bright and created a magnificent backdrop for the glow of the Himalayas. I continued to ABC alone, where I met a Nepali along the way. He was from banepa and knew the farm I stayed at. On our way in the dark, there was a point where the path seemed to go in different directions. i stopped, thinking about which way to go. Binod said, just make your own path. so i walked right through and we continued on. We arrived to ABC as the light was breaking on the top of Annapurna III. The mountains were growing out of a massive cliff, it was one of the most vast, beautiful, humbling places I have ever seen. I walked away from the crowd and sat at the edge of the cliff, looking at the mountains. It was cold, emotional and beautiful. I could feel Dad's presence in that moment and I wanted him to know I was there. He has been my guide through every step. There was a lot to explore so we walked further up and found a spot to sit until sunrise. I laid on the ground, looking up at machhapuchhare. The sun was glowing behind it, then it rose up over the mountains and shone on my face. We bathed in the sun for a while, laying in Annapurna's lap. We climbed a boulder in the middle of the landscape. It was noon, most everybody from the morning was gone, and the next group of people who would stay for the night had not yet arrived. The first part down from MBC was beautiful. The cloud I was in the day before was clear and the path that was so beautiful the day before became an unfamiliar cloudy descent. We moved down quickly, and hiked from Dobhan to bamboo in the dark. We shared some rum to celebrate. Day 6: Bamboo to Chhomrong It was a cool day and the trail rose and dipped. In Chhomrong we waited for some mules to move up the stairs. We had lunch at fishtail and I sat there the rest of the day, binod continued on to pokhara and it was my first time alone on the trek. But as I've come tto find you are never truly alone. A familiar face came to the lodge and a group of us sat talking and drinking rice wine. Tomorrow will take me to Tadapani. Day 7: Chhomrong to Tadapani I packed up around 7 and stretched outside. Fishtail has become my favorite place to stay. I had a late morning chatting. I was sent across the fields as a short cut to meet pup with the trail so I did some offroading from the path. I met a few guides who were leading a goat to Tadapani to have for dinner, so I accompanied them part way in the journey. Later on, the goat escaped and I watched them chase him all the way down to the river. I let the goat run right by me, an accomplice in the Great Goat Escape. They eventually caught him, and I assume that there was a big group eating goat that night. RIP little guy. A dog guided me part of the way, and I passed three little boys, who I gave some sf trinkets to. I passed through the playground of a school, and thn it was up for 2 hours through jungle. I sang songs out loud and in my head. At the guest house I met an older polish group living in Vancouver. I hiked with them the next day to Ghorepani. Day 8: Tadapani to Ghorepani It was a nice day of walking mostly through jungle and some amazing views along the way. When we arrived I met a few Americans and a German who had finished the circuit, hiking for over two weeks. Day 9: Poon Hill to Pokhara We left at 5am for an hour of stairs to watch the sunrise at Poon Hill. Back down for breakfast then hiked all the way down to Nayapul. it was over 12 hours of walking. We arrived at 6pm then took a local bus back to pokhara. I was dirty, exhausted, smelly and it was one of the most amazing feelings. I spent all the next day, Thanksgiving, lying on the mattresses of my favorite freedom cafe, drinking tea and staring at the lake. I'll spend the next few days exploring pokhara with all the amazing people I meet here.