Mapless in Mumbai... - Mumbai (Bombay), India
Mumbai (Bombay), India
Mumbai is an intense assault on the senses. First impression? The filthiest, noisiest city I have ever been in...There is constant traffic and a very ineffective anti-honking campaign with signs all around the city. The rats are in control! That said, as we wandered around the streets with the poorest excuse for a map ever (my two year old niece could have drawn me something better), I saw some of the most stunning architecture ever, much of which was in total disrepair or turned into a xerox centre or other mundane establishments... Nothing really makes sense there. There are signs containing many words that actually don't say anything at all. There is complete chaos everywhere yet extreme order when getting served in a bar or being told where to sit or stand. People don't queue in queues, however we witnessed a random line of people in the middle of the street, patiently waiting for taxis. Mumbai is really not very touristy. At many times we appeared to be the only Western tourists around and were constantly asked to be in pictures with families, babies and other random Indian folks. No one seems to know where anything is either. There are xerox and lamination shops everywhere and three people doing the job of one person. Digging pointless holes also seems to be a popular occupation and/or pastime. Everyone has a story and everyone wants to sell you something you don't want. However, we encountered the most honest and generous people. On Xmas eve, a group of family and friends invited us to celebrate with them, filling our glasses with champagne and wanting no money in return. They made our night and tried to teach us to dance (unsuccessfully). The food is amazing. We became paneer connoisseurs and couldn't get enough of curries. Nothing is cheap by India standards there, but you could have quite a feast on six pounds. Mumbai is a city lost in time (often somewhere around the mid seventies). On Xmas day, we took a boat ride to Elephanta Island, which was well worth the chaotic trip there (people all push onto the boat at once and you often have to climb across three boats to get to yours). On the journey back, during an incredible sunset, we could see the Gateway of India through the thick smog and it made us think of a Bombay long past, with ships filled with spices and treasures for the bazaars around town. It also made me appreciate the city and its dirty chaos and want to explore so much more of India...