Hong Kong - Tseung Kwan O, Hong Kong
Tseung Kwan O, Hong Kong
Where I stayed
Grand Hyatt
Thursday 25th February 2016. Fletcher's 3rd birthday
A limousine picked us up at 6am and took us to the airport for our Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong. Business Class was very comfortable and the food was delicious and plentiful. Upon landing HK we caught the train into the city. It was extremely fast and took 25 minutes. The Grand Hyatt is a luxurious hotel and our room is fabulous. We stayed in that night and went to bed at 8pm - 11pm Sydney time.
Friday 26th February 2016 - Hong Kong
Bruce and I walked a few blocks to the Ozo Wesley Hotel where Fran and Nev were staying. We found them in the dining room having breakfast so we joined them. We walked to the Peak Tram station and met Paul our intrepid tour guide. We rode the tram to the Peak and walked the 5 km track circling the peak. Down we came and then took the Star Ferry across to Kowloon. Bruce saw the Peninsular Hotel he remembered from 1970. In 1970 it was on the waterfront but now it's 2 blocks inland. There were many Rolls Royces parked out the front. It is a very grand hotel. From there we went to the Intercontinental for a very expensive drink. My soda water was $20!!
We took a cab to Ozo Wesley Hotel to pick up Fran and Nev to go to Chris and Kev's apartment, where Jen and Paul are staying, for drinks before dinner. Their apartment is fabulous and near Mid-level. We walked to the Metropolitan restaurant for dinner. It is a French restaurant and I had the best lemon soul ever. Bruce shared a pork knuckle with Paul which was also delicious. Back to Chris's apartment for more champagne before heading back to our hotel.
Saturday 27th February 2016. Hong Kong - Shenzhen
The meeting place for the trip to Shenzhen was Hung Hom Train Station in Kowloon at 9.30. We then caught the train to Shenzhen which took about 45 minutes. We went through immigration and got our visas and then walked to the Shangri La Hotel to drop off our bags. Then we hit the shops. What an amazing astonishing experience. The mall is about 1 km long and 5 floors. The shops are all tiny and crammed with merchandise. Handbags, sunglasses, shoes, dinner suits, jackets, coats, dresses, T-shirts etc. You name it they've got it. And everything is negotiable. If they ask 600 Yuan you could most likely get it for 200 Yuan or 150 Yuan. We experienced "shop till you drop". Lynda bought 2 sets of golf clubs, 2 golf bags, 2 golf shoes all for $600. What an excellent deal. And the clubs were Taylor Made, well at least that's how they are labeled. They look great.
The Shangri La offered us an up grade for $50. That included free drinks from 5.30 - 7.30pm.
So we scurried from the shopping mall to take advantage of "Happy Hour". Yummy food was also provided so going out for dinner was not necessary. Instead we all turned in early and rested our weary feet and full tummies.
Sunday 28th February 2016. Shenzhen - Hong Kong
After breakfast a pre-arranged driver, Frankie, picked us up in a people mover and drove us to an area that sold furniture, china and art. The shopping is out of this world. But Bruce, Lynda and me got Frankie to drive us back to the mall where Bruce wanted to have prescription sunglasses and a sports jacket made. I wanted to buy Carolyn Scott a Michael Kors handbag (knockoff of course) and Lynda wanted to buy luggage. Oh yes, and I wanted to buy Loubetin shoes. Alas there wasn't a shoe there that fit me however Lynda bought a very smart black patent leather pair. They're gorgeous and I LOVE the red soul.
Then we went to the "Secret Room" next door to our hotel where Ling Ling sold REAL designer handbags. Totally illegal of course. Lynda and I bought REAL Prada handbags for $300 each. Nice. Not sure how the supply chain works but it was a very secure room. If found by the police they would end up in jail so it is "invitation" only.
We caught the train back to Hong Kong and went to Chris and Kev's for drinks before walking to a local restaurant for dinner.
We said our goodbyes to Jenny and Paul, Chris and Kevin and Lynda.
Monday 29th February 2016. Hong Kong - Colombo
After spending a leisurely morning catching up with things we tried to contact Fran & Nev to join us on our trip to Stanley. No success there. So we caught a bus to Stanley, found a beach side restaurant for brunch and then wandered through the market of absolute rubbish. We caught the bus back to the city and once more tried to get in touch with Fran and Nev but to no avail so we took the Big Bus (hop on/hop off) to tour Hong Kong. It was very interesting and we saw several areas for the first time.
Then to the airport. We got a cab from the Grand Hyatt to the Hong Kong train station where we booked our luggage through to Colombo and then jumped on the train and 24 minutes later we were at the airport. Talk about efficient.
We managed to connect with Fran and Nev for a quick farewell drink before boarding our flight to Colombo.
It was a 5-1/2 hour flight and Sri Lanka is 2-1/2 hours behind Hong Kong so we landed at 11.30 Sri Lankan time but 2 am Hong Kong time. We were met by Abercrombie & Kent men and met Ruky our driver/guide and it was 45 minutes to our Uga Residence which is spectacular. Exhausted we tumbled into bed at 4am (our time).
Tuesday 1st March 2016 - Colombo - Uga Residence
We didn't sleep in as long as we thought we would. We signed into Uga at 9am as we hadn't done that the previous night and had breakfast at 10am. Ruky picked us up at noon for a tour of Colombo. We drove around and he identified many of the buildings and their stories. Our first stop was the Wolfendhal Church built in 1749 by the Dutch. It was damaged by lightning in 1756 and so part of the roof was rebuilt. There are many graves in the floor which demonstrates the sad history of the settlers. Many died in their 30s and 40s, either by accident or disease. Many babies' graves too. The church is built like a cross and has stained glass windows.
Our next stop was the Kailasanathar Swamy Devasthanam Temple (Hindu). It was interesting but needed a lot of restoration.
We drove past Galle Face Green, Victoria Park, the Colombo White House and the bustling bazaar district of Pettah. Finally we stopped at the Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple and saw many antiques, lots of ivory carvings and elephant tusks. And of course dozens of Buddhas. That temple is quite close to our beautiful hotel so when Ruky brought us back we went swimming in the magnificent pool. That really cooled us off although the water temp was probably about 30 degrees.
Now we are going for dinner here at Uga Residence with Jennifer's friend and colleague Mala.
We thoroughly enjoyed Mala's company, she recommended Sri Lankan food, she recommended places to go and see and she wanted to drive us around Colombo at night but we were way too tired.
Wednesday 2nd March 2016 - Colombo - Dumbulla - Thirapanne
Ruky picked us up at 8.30 for the drive to Dumbulla - a mere 146kms - it took 5-1/2 hours! Road construction was the main problem but traffic was a factor too.
We visited the extraordinary Buddhist cave temples. Some date back to 300BC. There were 5 caves we went into and they had many Buddhas and fresco art on the rock ceilings.
It was hot and walking up the steps to the caves was quite a feat. We really got sweaty. From the caves we went to the Kandalama Hotel (recommended by Mary and my friend Arlene).
It was gorgeous and an architectural marvel. Mala recommended a drink of lime juice which was perfect. One hour later we arrived at the Ulagalla Resort. Wow. It's in the middle of no where. The facilities are mind boggling. There is a huge pool, gym, spa, horse riding, bush walks, kayaking etc. Each "chalet" is separate with bedroom, sitting room, huge bathroom, spa pool. We are not far from the main reception/dining area but there are bicycles to ride, or you can walk or call for a ride in a golf cart. We are here for 3 days. Woo hoo!
We showered and dressed for dinner. The dining room is upstairs with railings replacing walls and huge white ceiling fans. Bruce and I walked into the lobby searching for stairs leading to the dining room. SPLASH!!!!! That's when I walked straight into the pool which is situated in the middle of the lobby. As quickly as I could I passed my handbag to an out-of-control laughing Bruce and was hauled out by two men. I stood up - my dress was soaked but I still had my sandals on. Fortunately I wasn't hurt, or so I thought at the time! It was so funny - we laughed and laughed. Back to the chalet to change clothes before dining.
Thursday 3rd March 2016 - Ulagalla resort - Thirapanne
This morning we visited the world heritage site of Polonnaruwa which was built in the 11th and 12th centuries. We saw the ruins of the royal palace, the audience hall, the lotus bath, statues and temples. The Indians invaded Polonnaruwa and destroyed all that they could. We were impressed by the enormous dam (lake) built by King Parakramabahu in the 11th century in order to supply the city with water for drinking, bathing and irrigation. The sewerage systems rivals that of the Romans.
There was an option to visit Eco Park to see elephants, leopards (unlikely), deer and boar but we opted for a Sri Lankan massage instead. Where the massage took place there were elephants bathing in the river and we saw another one walking along the road so we saw elephants after all.
My ankle was extremely painful today, must have twisted falling into the Lobby pool, and I struggled walking around the ruins, climbing steps etc so Ruky recommended a massage and foot treatment. The massage was so relaxing and we had herbal steam baths as well but the piece de resistance was hot oil dripping on our foreheads and the head massage. We came out looking like grease balls but feeling amazing. Then the "Doctor" applied black goo to my foot and said leave it on over night. It worked! Next day my ankle was almost 100% better.
Friday 4th March 2016 - Ulagalla Resort - Thirapanne
Today we chose to relax and enjoy this resort. Bruce rose early to go on a 2km walk to see the birdlife. He saw many many different species of bird including peacocks. It is mating season so they are at their height of magnificence. He also saw giant squirrels. YES! They are about the same size as a brush tail possum.
We cycled to breakfast and then cycled around the resort checking out the lake where there is kayaking, we saw the stables with the horses, the archery arena and the organic vegetable garden which we visited and the gardener showed us the many varieties of herbs and veggies grown there. The monkeys raid the garden which is a major problem.
Today was a good opportunity to update this blog and enjoy our private plunge pool and relax. Down loading the photos is a real chore, there must be an easier way!
While I was relaxing by the pool reading my book I heard rustling in the trees. There scampering along the branches were 3 giant squirrels.
Saturday 5th March 2016 - Thirapanne - Sigiriya - Kandy
It was sad to leave the fabulous Ulagalla resort on one hand but exciting to move on to other places and experiences. After about 1-1/2 hour drive we reach the cliff top citadel of Sigiriya.
Sigiriya is an ancient fortress complex set 300m up on an enormous rocky outcrop. It dates back to the 5th century. I was determined to climb it and I hoped my ankle would co-operate. After many steps (about 1200) and much climbing we reach the foot of the rock.There was a platform area where we rested before attempting the climb. Bruce started out but couldn't cope with vertigo and so decided to stay and sit in the shade. Ruky and I soldiered on. The stairs are metal, narrow and very steep however I MADE IT! The ruins and pools made the harrowing climb worthwhile and the view from the top was spectacular. Sigiriya is one of the main tourist attractions of Sri Lanka.
On the way to Kandy we stopped at a spice garden. There are only 2 indigenous spices here in Sri Lanka - cinnamon and pepper. All the other spices that Sri Lanka is renowned for have been introduced. We saw cocoa plants, vanilla, cloves, cardamom and so on. We had a lecture of potions they make combining the spices which will treat anything from diabetes to arthritis. It was so tempting to buy them all!
We arrived at The Stone House - a 1940s colonial mansion. I decided I needed a massage and foot treatment after that mammoth climb so while that was going on Ruky and Bruce had a beer at a nearby restaurant.
Sunday 6th March 2016 - Kandy - The Stone House
This morning we visited the Royal Botanical Gardens. We were shown around by Mr. Palipana who was very knowledgable indeed. He has written several books and presented us with one he'd written about the Royal Botanical Gardens. There was a tree from northern Qld. We loved the Gardens and in particular the Orchid Glasshouse. The orchids were gorgeous and we learned a lot about how to grow them.
Then on to Embekke Devalama Temple which Mala recommended we visit. It was totally fascinating to see the carved wooden pillars which date back to the 12th century. There are no walls and so the pillars are only protected by the roof. The wood used was from the Iron Tree and it has lasted all these centuries. The carvings were of mythical animals, a lion eating the brain of an elephant he'd just killed and wrestlers (Sri Lankans wrestle with only one arm!). There was some sort of Buddhist ceremony going on for 15 minutes whilst we were there. Afterwards we were invited into the rear rooms of the temple and a monk (priest?) did a chant for us behind a curtain.
From the Embekke Temple we went to a Tea Factory and were shown how tea is processed from being picked. Just 2 leaves and the bud are picked. Black tea is made from the 2 leaves and the bud makes white tea (red bud) or green tea. It was very interesting to follow the different stages, the drying, colour grading, getting rid of the stems from the leaves (the stems are then used for compost). Finally we were offered a cup of tea (Orange Pekoe) and then I decided to buy the best quality tea available there but changed my mind when I found out it would cost over $30 for a small tin. So I settled on a small box of Orange Pekoe.
On to the gem factory. Firstly we saw a film how they mine sapphires, rubies, tourmalines, aquamarines etc. I had decided not to purchase anything so happily went from the showing of the film to the showroom. The bottom line is I was seduced by 2 gorgeous aquamarines and I'm having earrings made. The price was good and the stones were over 5 carets together. They are making them now and we shall pick them up tomorrow on the way to the train station.
Ruky picked us up and we drove to the Temple of the Tooth. Three times every day there is a gift ceremony. At 6.30 in the morning the gifts are food and then again at 9am. At 6.30 pm the gifts are liquid. It's quite a racket - the drums beat and the monks take the gifts into a chamber. We queued for 1/2 an hour to get a glimpse through a window of the casket that holds the tooth relic, the most sacred treasure to all Buddhas. Further into the temple is the story of Buddha. He was born in India 400BC in May, he became "enlightened" sitting under a Bo tree in May and died in May. The tooth was rescued from his ashes after cremation. The tooth relic has had many homes. The British held the tooth but gave it back to the Sri Lankan Buddhists in 1853 and it's been in Kandy ever since. It was a relief to leave the hullabaloo of the Temple of the Tooth and drive to a restaurant perched on a hill which was open to a pleasant balmy breeze with fabulous views over the lake and Kandy's lights.
Monday 7th March 2016 - Kandy - Hatton - Dickoya - Governor's Mansion
Ruky picked us up at 10.30 to take us to the train via the Gem Shop Opanima to pick up my aquamarine earrings. There they were - simply gorgeous. But suddenly a tray of rings appeared. I did not intend to purchase anything else but a good deal was offered and so I obtained a beautiful aquamarine ring.
There was time to spare so Ruky drove us to the university - the first university in Sri Lanka. The campus was beautiful.
We arrived at the train station a 1/2 hour before the train was due to leave. But it was delayed another 15 minutes.
This train trip was reputed to be one of the most spectacular train journeys in the world. It was disgusting! We had tickets for the "observation car". When we got to our seat there was a huge aluminium panel with slivers of window each side. I asked to be moved but the attendant said the carriage was fully booked and moving was not possible. We got underway and realized we were in for a rough ride - rickety, rock and roll! It was over 2 hours of hell. Lunch was served - luke warm curry and rice. Yuk. Bruce's seat didn't even have a tray table. By twisting my neck I got a glimpse of the view which wasn't anything really and by craning my neck forward you got a glimpse of the outside world. There was really nothing to see as we went through lots of poor villages, a pine forest and mountains. It wasn't until we reached the tea plantations that the viewing was worthwhile but then we were really handicapped. What irritated me the most was that the Chinese seemed to get the best seats with large windows and they spent the whole journey sleeping.
Ruky was at Hatton train station and transported us to the Governor's Mansion. A glorious old colonial building built in 1800. Members of the Royal family used to stay here including Princess Elizabeth before she became queen. We are in the Queen's Suite which is very nice and outfitted with colonial style furniture including a 4 poster bed. The gardens are magnificent - it seems that everything can grow in this climate.
Tuesday 8th March 2016 - Nuwara Eliya - The Governor's Mansion
After breakfast we were given a very brief demonstration of tea plucking and a quick spiel about the process of making tea. And that was it! So much for our "Tea Experience" morning outlined in our itinerary.
I was extremely disgruntled and disappointed. I phoned Ruky and explained that no more was happening for us today and asked if he could drive us to Nuwara Eliya to see the Hill Club. He arrived to pick us up at noon and we drove nearly 2 hours to Nuwara Eliya and went to the Hill Club - a very old colonial hotel which would have been extremely grand in it's day. Next to it was an exclusive private 18 hole golf course.
Then Ruky took us to a Tea Factory and we had the best guided tour. We saw the women come in with their sacks (18kg) of plucked tea, the tea was weighed and then sent to the withering room where hot air blows on it to dry it a little so the leaves are still flexible. Then the rolling room where the tea leaves are put into huge machine to be rolled. The cutting is next and then the grading. It was all explained in an understandable way and we were shown all the different processes.
Because this trip to Nuwara Eliya is classified as an optional extra it cost us $43.50!
in
Nevertheless the Tea Factory experience in Nuwara Eliya certainly made up for our earlier frustration.
The traffic here is something else. There are dozens of trishaws (tuk tuks) weaving in and out of the vehicles. There are dozens of buses and being in the mountains the roads are narrow and windy. Driving must be an acquired skill and not for the feint hearted.
Wednesday 9th March 2016 - Tangalle - Amanwella Resort
It was a long drive today from Dickoya to Tangalle but the first part of the journey was amazing. The road was rough and windy but went through hundreds of acres of tea plantations. We saw many many tea pluckers and it put together the picture of tea plantation life for us. From the tea plantations we hit jungle - it was gorgeous - ferns, palms, vines, huge trees etc. and any view was mountainous with cloud. Then magically we were back into tea plantations. And then rice paddies. It changed so quickly as did the temperature. We went from 16 degrees C to 33 degrees C in about 10 minutes.
Finally we hit the southern coast at Tangalle and arrived at our destination Amanwella. This is where we bid farewell to Ruky our guide/driver for the past 9 days. What a fabulous resort Amanwella is. It is right on the coast with each suite having sea views and a short walk to the gorgeous crescent shaped beach. Each suite has a plunge pool, a huge king size bedroom, a large bath tub, twin hand basins all separated from the shower and toilet. And a terrace each side. Totally luxurious.
Since we arrived here about 2 in the afternoon after a 5 hour drive, Bruce and I decided to take a walk around the resort. There is a coconut grove and a beachside restaurant. A library, huge bar, a 47 metre swimming pool (where are my goggles?!) and restaurant. For those who do yoga there are classes on the beach each morning.
Bruce and I decided to walk into town to buy some beer. We thought it wasn't far. About 8kms later we finally found a peculiar "wine store" in the hubbub market area and were able to buy COLD beer. It was hot walking but very interesting. However we decided to take a tuk tuk back to Amanwella and take a dip in a plunge pool - me with a G & T and Bruce with his well earned beer.
Thursday and Friday 10th and 11th March 2016 - Tangalle - Amanwella Resort
We went down to the beach for a BBQ dinner the first night - the ribs were very good.
Our two days of leisure at Amanwella have been fabulous. We enjoyed breakfast overlooking the pool and beach. The fruit plate was huge with every tropical fruit imaginable - passion fruit, pineapple, paw paw, pomegranate, mango, banana and watermelon. Sri Lankan and western dishes were also on the menu.
The rest of our days we spent at the beach and the pool before retiring to our suite to read, relax and cool off in our plunge pool. We enjoyed watching the geckos and birds.
Saturday 12 March 2016 - Tangalle - Galle - Amangalla Resort
After breakfast we had a quick swim at the beach and pool before getting ready for our drive to Galle, only about 40 km away but a two hour drive. As usual the traffic was heavy and driving very hectic. Our first stop was at a Batik Factory where hand made dresses, table clothes and other items where made from cotton or silk. Every piece was laboriously waxed, painted and dyed then washed and the process started again to make the different coloured designs. The peacock piece taking weeks just to paint. One tablecloth took three and a half months to make. Absolutely beautiful and very expensive.
Next we drove by stilt fishermen perched on timber posts driven into the seabed. Lots of fishing, didn't see any catching. Th sight was totally fascinating and so Sri Lankan.
Our last stop on the way was a Turtle Hatchery. After the turtle emerges from the sea and lays her eggs on the beach, the eggs are harvested and buried in sand about 45 cm deep in an enclosed area in the hatchery. When the eggs hatch in about 60 days the baby turtles are carefully returned to the sea at night fall. It's done at night to protect them from birds and other land predators. There are 5 different species of turtle in Sri Lanka. Green, Loggerhead, Olive Ridley, Leather Back and Hawks Beak. There were several injured turtles that were rescued from fishing nets. If the flippers are injured they do not repair and so the turtles are unable to go under water and just float but damaged shells regenerates.
Finally we reached our destination - Galle and the magnificent Amangalla Resort which sits within the ramparts of the 17th century Galle Fort built by the Dutch. The hotel has been immaculately restored to colonial style with antique furniture and is surrounded by 200 year old gardens.
This afternoon we took a guided tour through the atmospheric streets of the old fort and strolled along the ramparts. We saw the old Dutch hospital where Mala recommended a restaurant - Sugar Bistro. And that's where we had dinner - the Crab Koothu which she also recommended.
Sunday13th March 2016 - Galle - Amangalla Resort
Today is basically our last day in Sri Lanka. We had breakfast out by the pool and then went to the Maritime Museum which was excellent. It explained so much of the history of Sri Lanka and particularly Galle as there were many many ship wrecks here which have been explored and so much information gathered. The Portugese first settled in Galle in 1505. It wasn't until 1640 when the Dutch decided they too wanted Sri Lanka that a bloody battle was fought and the Portugese were forced to leave. Then approximately 160 years later in 1796 the British landed and the Dutch peacefully handed "Ceylon" over to the British. The British ruled for approximately 150 years when Ceylon became independent on 4th February 1948 but was still a part of the Commonwealth. More about that later.
Oh yes, our butler Charish told us A&K included a shave for Bruce and a facial for me in our package so Bruce had a shave. It took half an hour. Hot towels, cut throat razor, facial and head massage and nose hair clipping. My facial is later on this afternoon.
After the museum we went to a shop recommended by Mala to buy some gifts. Success. Tea for the GGs and T-shirts for the little boys.
Then we found the Tuk Tuk Bar which was recommended by Mala also. It was upstairs in the Old Dutch Hospital - the same building as the Sugar Bistro. We were given a cool breezy table in the corner with ocean and harbour views. At eye level there was a 400 year old breadfruit tree which was the first one planted in Sri Lanka. We ordered what Mala had suggested and were totally delighted and satisfied with the "nibbles". A famous Buddha had just died so there was no alcohol served in any restaurant.
Back to our hotel where we spent an hour or so at the pool. Rainey's facial - deluxe.
Soon we'll have dinner on the lawn under the palms and by the pool. What a lovely way to end our amazing Sri Lankan adventure.
Some History
"The Troubles" began in 1954 when Queen Elizabeth visited Ceylon. Her speech was translated into only Sinhala causing unrest amongst the Tamils. And then in 1956 the Prime Minister declared Sinhala as the one official language.
The Tamil Tigers formed and fought the Government military killing 11 soldiers. In retaliation the Sinhalese burnt and plundered Tamil businesses and homes, murdering Tamils as they went. The war began in May 1983 and 80 to 100,000 people were killed, some say more. After 26 years of fighting peace was declared in July 2009. The Tamils were fighting to form an independent Tamil state in the north and east of the island.
The Tamils have been in northern Sri Lanka from the mist of time. However the British imported Indian Tamils from 1840 - 1860 as indentured labour for the tea plantations These Tamils remained in the hills district and didn't mix or intermarry with the original Tamils or the Sinhalese.
The tsunami in 2004 killed 50,000 Sri Lankans and although Galle Fort was protected due to the ramparts, the village of Galle was badly flooded and damaged with the loss of many lives.
Smells of Sri Lanka - frangipani and burning rubbish
Sounds of Sri Lanka - birds twittering and sweeping
The beaches here are gorgeous and as good as Australian beaches but the tides are minute - 0.7 metres. One can hardly notice the difference.
100 rupee = $1
Many women wear the tradiional saris and the men wear sarongs.
The people are very friendly and smiley.
The population of Sri Lanka is 22 million and Colombo has 2 million residents. 70% of Sri Lankans are Buddhist with the remainder being Hindu, Muslim and Christian.
Monday 14th March 2016 - Galle - Colombo - Wallawwa Hotel
Our Sri Lankan Odyssey has come to an end. We left the lovely Amangalla Resort at 11am and made the 2-1/2 journey to this magnificent Wallawwa Hotel. It is an old Dutch colonial house dating back to the mid-17th century. The original house is the reception, library, sitting room with the 17 guest rooms an addition when it became a hotel 8 years ago. As so often we found these resorts to be secluded with access via narrow gravel road.