2013-12-22

Dawn on the Ganges - Varanasi, India

Varanasi, India

5am we awoke and soon after we were tuk-tucking to the great river Ganges, this time there was little traffic but even they could not resist the temptation to peep along incessantly. We had to reverse back up one lane as three cows were sleeping in the middle and they cannot be disturbed. The tuk-tuk cost 400 rupees for the half hour journey there and back, the hour and a half he waited for us was free, so about £4. The boat for one hour was £5. The hotel had offered to arrange it all for £35! The Ganges, as the sun took over from the night, was magical. Peaceful and soothing to the spirit, the mist clinging to the earth added to the sense of mysticism. Our 'captain' rowed us along its banks, explaining the original status of various Ghats which were at first palaces of Maharajahs or of their widows, with one exception. One was and is owned by the master of the cremation Ghat who, due to the constant supply of 'goods', was a very wealthy man. We were able to video our approach to this Ghat, which may give you a feel of its oppressive and mournful appearance. It was a very impressive and impactful journey, serene and gracious. You understood why so many Indians and foreigners believe they have found their spiritual home here. Tomorrow we catch a train about 9am to embark on a nine hour journey to Agra, the home of the Taj Majal.

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