Reflections: Restless Lands of Pakistan and India - Crowdy Head , Australia
Crowdy Head , Australia
Where I stayed
Our Home at Crowdy
PEOPLES, LANDSCAPES, EVENTS AND HISTORIC SITES.....
What can we say? This was yet another fabulously interesting trip.
Amazingly colourful, fascinating and exciting, as usual we frequently found ourselves landed somehow in the most absurd and outrageous situations in some of the most politically sensitive, remote and less travelled destinations in the northern Indo-Pak sub-continent. These experiences will stay with us forever. We enjoyed also the more well trodden paths of the provinces of the Punjab (both Pakistan and India), and Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan (India) with their wonderful, robust historic forts, palaces and monuments; legacies of the mighty Mughal Empire. We often wonder just how more remarkable our trips can get?
Although we have visited Pakistan on three separate occasions over the last five years, we acknowledge that our experiences and understanding can only provide a snap shot of the nature of this much maligned country. Similarly, our travels in India were very much limited to the northern Himalayan provinces and again provided us with just a glimpse of this huge and diverse nation.
All destinations were special but some more special than others. Indeed a small few were memorable because our experiences were downright awful. In many instances our greatest pleasure was in meeting the friendly and welcoming people, together with the euphoric bliss of finding ourselves in the desert starkness of some of the highest mountains in the world.
Our travels in both Pakistan and India were wonderful but I know that my heart was in Pakistan. It always is. And it is the same for Alan. You may well ask why. In truth, we are unable fully explain our surprising fondness for this impoverished, politically, socially and economically, and even geographically fragile nation. It is a wonder that the country functions at all. Well in fact, it barely does. And sometimes, it just doesn't. It is however, the magnificent mountainous countryside and the gentler people we have met in our travels in the more northern districts of Pakistan that will always feel like home and family to us.
We found the wealthier India to be a freer, brasher but nevertheless very friendly and outgoing society. We loved Kashmir and Ladakh - the wildness and remoteness of the Himalayas and the simple but fascinating lifestyles of the local peoples. Perhaps we connected more closely with these regions than we did with those further south, because they reminded us of Pakistan and even Tibet which we visited some years ago. Perhaps it was because today, they are not popular tourist destinations.
Although the more southern region around the Golden Triangle of Agra, Jaipur and Delhi was much more tourist orientated, we thoroughly enjoyed the fabulous attractions of Agra and Jaipur and were extremely pleased that despite the searing summer temperatures we knew we were to going to encounter, we had decided to add this part of India to our travels. The breathtaking Taj Mahal was for us the highlight of our later travels in India.
These are our reflections on, and recollections of, the more memorable moments of our journeys through these restless, beautiful lands of the northern Indo-Pak sub-continent.
MORE MEMORABLE OCCASIONS....
* Flying low over the Karakoram Ranges from China into northern Pakistan and then following the famous Indus River south to Islamabad. Euphoric at the sight of the 7,790 m snow clad Mount Rakaposhi piercing proudly through the dense mountainous clouds.
* Dining on a hot and sultry evening with our Pakistani friends in the lively Monal Restaurant, some 1,000 meters up in the Margalla Hills and overlooking the city lights of Islamabad. Enjoying a fantastic meal.
* Being frustrated that each of the two return Pakistan International Airways flights we were booked on from Islamabad to Skardu were cancelled for no obvious reason, resulting in an additional 24 hour spine jarring car journey.
* Joining in the exhilarating night street festivities of the lively, frenetic local tourist township of Naran. Being thoroughly welcomed by the friendly local tourists in a mad Mardi Gras atmosphere.
* Being cold, miserable and bored in the darkness of our Rama PTDC Hotel with no power (read: no heating or even lighting, let alone television) while it poured all day with rain. Trying to convince three very defiant but charming goats who burst into our hotel room, that our bed was not made up for them for the night.
* Sitting with our friend and guide Sadruddin, North Pakistan Adventure and driver Khaja in the moist alpine grass of the remote and desolate Deosai National Park of north-eastern Pakistan watching Golden Marmots and enjoying a simple but delicious picnic of cold potatoes, chicken and mangoes. Gazing at the soaring snow covered Karakoram and Himalayan mountains from one of the highest alpine national parks in the world.
* Weaving through wandering hordes of nomadic gypsies and their horses, and enjoying the fabulous scenery of Babusar Pass in north-eastern Pakistan. Enjoying the Babusar Pass once more as we were forced to drive back from Skardu to Islamabad after our flight was cancelled. Wondering why we had to travel this journey again when the trip to Islamabad was only a four hour trip down the Karakoram Highway, yet the Babusar was another eleven hours! Due to political circumstances, plans can change dramatically in a very short space time in Pakistan. We know...
* Disconcerted at the sight of a lone sniper on a remote hill close to the jail at Chilas, a largely tribally administered and generally hostile area of the Indus Valley in northern Pakistan.
* Passing the chilling recent murder scene of burnt-out buses where 40 Shia passengers were hijacked and killed by a Sunni gang on the Karakoram Highway near Chilas.
* Dining on wonderful food with Sadruddin during a massive thunderstorm on the restaurant verandah of the historic old Shigar Fort in the far north-east of Pakistan.
* Being reluctant participants of a wild political rally and being interviewed by Pakistan National Television at the following polo match at Kaphlu near the Line of Control between far north-eastern Pakistan and India. Being grabbed by one of the politicians' policemen and raced at full speed to the visiting dignitaries' stand where they insisted we sit with them. Sitting RIGHT behind the politicians at the special festivities and polo, remembering Sadruddin's comments to us just beforehand: "Don't get too close to the politicians. If a BOOM BOOM goes off then you will too!" Thanks for the advice Sadruddin. Just a bit late....
* Feeling pleased that I had my make-up on as Alan kept reminding me that when an explosive device is detonated, the heads of the victims usually stay intact. I could hear my mother exclaiming in horror when she sighted the newspaper clipping "You'd think she would have put her face one..". She would say that too.
* Thoroughly entertained by the following Tug of War where funnily enough, the Department of Public Works Team was defeated by the Police Team. When they began to lose ground, the winning team just added more team members!
* Entranced by local men dancing as part of the festivities at Kaphlu. Link: http://youtu.be/oRKImeLEcks
* Remembering our Australian Government saying "When You are Overseas, Never, Ever be Part of a Political Rally"..... Links: http://youtu.be/APuuwPlfAVo Polo Match at Kaphlu and http://youtu.be/iTN_PSobwVQ Tug of War at Kaphlu
* Trying hard to ignore my anxiety as we sat on the side of a blind bend of a lonely road near Chilas while Khaja and Sadruddin were trying to fix our car problem in the dark. Trying hard not to think about the manic young bearded man, restrained by a friend, who was screaming and gesticulating wildly at us while Khaja and Sadruddin filled our car up with petrol just minutes before.
* Being exasperated with the soles of Alan's shoes coming apart in the searing summer heat of Lahore and trying endlessly to get them glued together at nearly every stop on our way through India. Trying to find a pair of size 13 shoes at the frenetic sweltering night markets of the not-so-safe city of Lahore. Wondering if the very tall members of Pakistan cricket teams had small feet.
* Enjoying with Sadruddin on a sweltering hot night the bizarre ambiance and fine food of Coocos' Restaurant, in the red light district of Heera Mandi, Lahore. Gazing the the lights of the Red Fort Citadel from one of the restaurant's many verandahs.
* Being flabbergasted when asked by a curious Customs Official at the Pakistan-India border whether Alan and I were part of a "Love Marriage"!
* Sweating through the wild and noisy festivities, pomp and ceremony of the Wagah Border Closing Ceremony in the 40+degrees C heat and wishing I was cheering with the people on the Pakistan side. And Alan wishing he was anywhere else... Links:http://youtu.be/v7Uh_qRxNII Women Dancing at Wagha and http://youtu.be/OKpL03jLg1g Guards Marching at Wagha
* Witnessing the unmentionable sight of Alan's burnt bum, seared and roasted from sitting on the red hot steps at Wagah. Giving him no sympathy at all after accusing him of ruining my afternoon at Wagah- which he did.
* Finding out at the last minute that Kashmir is still regarded by our Australian Government as a "No Go Zone" which of course meant that all our travel insurance was void for the time we were travelling in the region. Realising that someone thought this place was more unsafe than Pakistan.
* Floating on a Shikara through Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir. Hearing the gentle "lap, lap" of the oars as we glided across endless bed of water lilies. And wondering when we were going to be kidnapped...
* Enjoying the friendly hospitality, silver service and great food on Mr Gulam Butt's Clermont Houseboats on the enchanting Dal Lake.
* Watching helplessly as an Indian policeman viciously assaulted our driver Sonam in a Yatra pilgrimage traffic jam on our journey from Srinagar to Kargil.
* Sucking in my breath as our car lurched in sleet and ice, up the rail-less muddy track - otherwise known as National Highway 1D and one of the most dangerous roads in India - in a bumper to bumper car convoy over the 4,000 m Zozilla Pass on the Kashmir - Ladakh border. Looking down some 2,000 treeless meters from the naked edge of the road at the tens of thousands of Hindu Yatra pilgrims below.
* Dining amongst curious locals at a frenetic restaurant at Dras, the second coldest place in the world and where in 2005 temperatures plummeted to a staggering minus 60 degrees C.
* Witnessing the chilly sombre atmosphere of Kargil, an infamous town on the Indian - Pakistan border and site of where the bloodiest and highest altitude wars were more recently fought.
* Enjoying the refreshingly laid back atmosphere and Buddhist temples of Ley, Ladakh. Buying two wonderful Carpets-We-Certainly-Did-Not-need from a charming Kashmiri carpet seller and then wondering how on earth we would get them home.
* Impulsively buying a gorgeous but very expensive handwoven pashmina that We-Just-Couldn't-Live-Without-But-Didn' t-Need.
* Buying gorgeous lapis lazuli jewellery from a friendly stall holder at a Tibetan Refugee camp market in the strange small alpine village of Alchi, Ladakh.
* Having a wonderful outdoor breakfast at Pang, a tiny nomad "village" in the Himalayas of Ladakh. Marvelling at the awesomely stark and arid mountain scenery. This was so much "us".
* Camping at Sarchu Heights, on the border of Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh in the Himalayas of northern India, at altitude of around 4,300m. Witnessing Alan suffering from severe altitude sickness, vomiting and diarrhoea, then accidentally knocking over our makeshift "toilet"! Oh dear... This was so much "not us".
* Enjoying the company of the lovely Dutch couple Jose and Marcel who were also camping at Sarchu for the night and who visited us at our home in December 2012. Links: http://youtu.be/ptP0K3e9DKM and http://youtu.be/iodoofk0ms8 for some pretty ordinary videos of our "Sarchu Luxury Camping Grounds".
* Wondering "What the frigg'n hell does Alan think he is doing lying to Indian police? We will all end up in jail....." while Alan was ************* his way through a police interrogation at a traffic jam at Rohtang on the icy and highly dangerous road from Sarchu to Manali. How he got himself - or us - out of this predicament I will never know. I still shiver when I think about it.
* Relaxing in the laid back pretty mountainous town of Manali. Happily wandering through the markets and chatting with our lovely guide Moti about his life in India.
* Enjoying the laid back ambiance of The Mall and the wonderful history of the Vice Regal Lodge at Shimla.
* Being delighted with the naughty but entertaining monkeys and their antics in stealing alcohol from our Shimla Oberoi Cecil Hotel room. Being high amused when the monkey family began engaging in group sex on our hotel verandah!
* Thoroughly enjoying the wonderful Oberoi Cecil Hotel but feeling more than a bit disturbed when another Oberoi Hotel at Shimla started to slide down the mountain.
* Being horrified when Indian passengers threw all their rubbish out of the windows on the Toy Train trip from Shimla to Kalka. Disliking every uncomfortable minute of the journey.
* Being totally spellbound by the awesome beauty of the Taj Mahal during a pastel sunrise in Agra.
* Being thoroughly absorbed in the Mughal history and beauty of the Red and Amber Forts at Agra and Jaipur.
* Floating on a searing hot day in the warm pool of the wonderful Samode Haveli Hotel, Jaipur listening the haunting call of the Azan from a nearby mosque.
* Thoroughly enjoying our stay at the Sofitel Hyland Shanghai Hotel and our very relaxing stay in Shanghai.
* Enjoying a continued friendship and contact with some of the wonderful guides and travel agents we made great friendship with on our travels, and whose information and care made our trip so much more special.
* Receiving a lovely, positive email from author Christopher Kremmer at the eventual completion of this travelogue.
What more could we have asked for?
And yes, Christopher, thank you - we DID have the Times of Our Lives!
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