Into Ladakh: "Take Care, Life Has No Spare" - Alchi, India
Alchi, India
Where I stayed
Alchi Resort, Alchi
Kargil, like Dras exuded a sombre and rather morbid atmosphere. And like Dras, it had suffered terribly from past bloody Indian - Pakistan wars.
We agreed that Kargil had a bad feel to it. Perhaps, like Dras it was because we were well aware of the wars of which Kargil, given its proximity to the Line of Control, was always in the immediate line of fire. Even the staff at our oddly coloured European styled hotel was distant and unfriendly. But it was interesting.
The most recent serious conflict was the Kargil War between India and Pakistan through May to July 1999 in Kargil and elsewhere along the Line of Control. The cause of the war was due to Pakistani infiltration of the Indian side of the border around Dras and Kargil. Pakistan initially blamed Kashmiri insurgents but later it was found that the Pakistan Government was well involved, backed by the then Pakistani Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif (and current Prime Minister) and masterminded by (the then) Army Chief and former commando General Pervez Musharraf, later to become President following a coup d'tat in 1999. The highly controversial and internationally condemned infiltration and subsequent war was a notoriously brutal affair with Pakistani soldiers hurling down bombs and missiles from the high peaks of the border areas. Eventually, after many lives lost on both sides, India finally succeeded in driving the Pakistani forces back over the border.
The Kargil War was one of the more recent examples of high altitude warfare in mountainous terrain which posed significant logistical problems for both sides. Frighteningly, to date the tensions have not really abated between two countries, both of whom have nuclear war capability.
As our hotel was on the other side of town, Rigzen suggested that we have a look at Kargil from the other bank of the Suru River. The view of the sprawling town however did not improve our image of the town.
We noted with interest just how ridiculously close Kargil is to Skardu where we had travelled to in northern Pakistan. Apparently, the Indian and Pakistan Governments are looking at re-opening the 130 km bus trip across the border between the two townships. It certainly would have made our trip easier than having to undertake the long and complex journey from Skardu to Islamabad to Lahore, then Delhi to Srinagar and then to Kargil! On the other hand, we would not have seen all these wonderful destinations on the way. And as Alan so rightly says, the two sides are likely to go to blow each other up at any time
We began our 174 km trip to Alchi winding through arid rocky mountains and following our friend, the mighty Indus River. The countryside was reminiscent of that we had witnessed in Pakistan, with the stark dryness of the jagged purple-orange mountains interspersed with oasis valleys farmed from irrigated channels. We were wondering what the contours were on the sides of many of the mountains. Sonam explained they were ancient water channels, no longer in use. They were of an ingenious but simple design, each contour channeling water into the next lower one, providing precious water to the fertile valleys below.
It was the first time that Sonam had actively participated in our discussions. He spoke excellent English and was a mine of local information. Apparently drivers in this region are (understandably) well paid and earn more than the guides. Sonam was working as a driver part time. His other time was devoted to helping his mother with her farm as his father was an army man based in Assam in far eastern India.
The Indian Government, as we were to find during our travels, was extremely road safety conscious in an effort to reduce the huge road tolls across the country. Not that it seemed to be working as we saw, and were almost part of, a number of bad car accidents. Curious signs with little homilies such as "Take Care, Life Has No Spare", "After Whiskey, Driving Risky", "Always Expect the Unexpected" were erected everywhere. It became quite fun trying to agree on the most humourous sign.
Lunch was at Mulbekh, a small village at an altitude of 3,304 m which is located 45 km from Kargil on the Kargil - Ley Road. Rigzen seemed to know everyone and his friend, owner of one of the three road house - hotels in Mulbekh, provided us with a good lunch overlooking the Mulbekh Monastry.
Dated around the 8th Century AD, this tiny monastery comprises two gompas, one Drukpa (new Buddhist school) and one Gelugpa (old Buddhist school) and is thought to be one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in Ladakh. It is situated high on a pyramidical crag and has wonderful views of gently terraced barley fields and the distant snowy peaks of the Zanskar Mountains. The monastery also houses an 8 m limestone relief of the Maitreya Buddha which is around 1,000 years old.
It was with some relief when we entered Ladakh. During our stay in Kashmir, neither Alan or I had talked about our lack of travel insurance. It was only later in our travels that we confessed to each other just how thankful we were to visit the beautiful Kashmir and not run into any trouble - and just how relieved we were to leave.
Spectacular Ladakh was once home to a large thriving Buddhist kingdom. Although Ladakh (meaning "many passes") is right next door to Jammu Kashmir you could well be travelling through another country. In fact it was just like being in Tibet with rugged arid mountain scenery, high altitude mountain passes, Buddhist temples, gompas and stupas, and the characteristic Tibetan style flat roofed, white washed local housing. Over half the population is Buddhist and most familiar to us from our past travels in Tibet were the ubiquitous colourful fluttering prayer flags.The air was powder dry and the fine dust whipped up by strong winds penetrated into everything - especially my eyes. And like Tibet we were amazed how local farmers in this challenging high altitude, arid region with such a short growing season could be self sufficient in fuel, dairy products and vegetables.
Our journey from Mulbekh to Alchi took us through more arid rugged, jagged mountain country. Curiously, some of the mountains were more rounded, folded and squashed, resembling obscene, obese naked buttocks. Further on we climbed the high passes of Fotala and Namikala. The views from both passes were spectacular with Namikala at an altitude of 3,700 m and Fotala at 4,147 m.
The countryside was extremely dry with tributaries of the Indus almost stopped in their flow. The monsoon was due in this region in two to three weeks, although compared with other parts of India, Ladakh has a relatively low monsoon rainfall. Sonam explained that the soil in this part of the country was very fragile and with very little vegetation heavy monsoonal rain can cause major problems with erosion and flooding.
Buddhist Lamayuru Monastery is located in a picturesque mountain setting 15 km from Fotala Pass on the main road from Kargil to Ley. Set into the surrounding buff mounds and hills, the monastery appeared to almost disappear into the mountainous backdrop.
Lamayuru is the oldest and one of the largest gompas (place of learning or Buddhist centre) in Ladakh, with a population of around 150 permanent monks resident. Behind glass in the main prayer hall is a tiny cave in which 11th Century mystic Naropa meditated. Before that, legend claims, the whole area surrounding Lamayuru was the bottom of a large, deep lake whose waters receded miraculously thanks to the powerful prayers of Buddhist saint Arahat Nimagung.
Like most Buddhist temples, the interior was decorated with elaborate, colourful murals. Large white washed stupas (a white washed mound structure containing Buddhist relics, ashes of the deceased, and used by Buddhists as a place of meditation) adorned the monastery which plays host to two major festivals in the second and fifth months of the Tibetan lunar calendar.
Back home in Australia, good friends Jenny and Jim Tait are always fascinated with our trips. Like us, they do a lot of travel - but unlike us they do it sensibly. They are always joking with us about the places we visit and especially the accommodation we stay in. And like Jim and Jenny, we very much prefer five star accommodation but our problem is that the places we tend to visit are so off the beaten track that we have to put up with whatever is the best available. There are always one or two of our destinations that the Tait's laugh about before we travel. This time it was staying in a guest house in Alchi and camping at Sarchu Heights later in our journey.
And so we were delighted when Rigzen told us that we were staying at "a resort" in Alchi. Our hearts fell though as on our way to Alchi we passed numerous entrances to so called "Eco Resorts" - all looking very run down and at the best downright shoddy.
We arrived at Alchi in the mid afternoon and were pleasantly surprised that our Alchi Resort was not as bad as we had imagined. Self contained, white washed and typically box-shaped Tibetan units were located amongst rather messy, flood irrigated flower gardens. The units however were basic but clean and thankfully we had our own bathroom and toilet. At the end of the outside walkway was a very pleasant pavilion, a good place to enjoy a quiet afternoon drink we thought. Which of course we did.
Our only real problem was, like Pakistan, electricity outages are the "norm" and we only had power from 7.00 pm to 11.00 pm that evening. Ladakh, Rigzen explained, has massive problems with power shortages, a problem we were surprised to encounter throughout our journeys in India, even in the capital city of Delhi. Like Tibet, locals tend to use dried yak dung as fuel for heating and cooking. Wood and kerosene are also used but are very expensive for the villagers.
Situated on the Indus River at an altitude of 3,100 meters, Alchi is located four km down a dead end lane off the main Kargil to Ley road. It has become quite a tourist attraction thanks largely to the Chhoskhor Temple Complex reached by a lane way lined by shops, guest houses and oddly enough a German Bakery.
Thankfully, we had a free afternoon and enjoyed wandering happily through the interesting, immaculately clean village and visiting the tree lined bazaar. Tibetan refugees were the main stall holders at the bazaar, selling everything from toys, wooden carvings and touristy items to an array of hand made jewellery. I adore the stone Lapis Lazuli and cannot resist buying this lovely brilliant blue stone whenever I see it. Alan found a lovely rustic cut Lapis hand made necklace. As mentioned in all my travelogues, I simply hate bargaining and especially this time with poor Tibetan refugees. And as usual I cowardly made myself scarce while Alan bargained and eventually bought the necklace for me. It is simple but beautiful and a lovely reminder of the very pleasant village of Alchi.
Drinks in the pavilion was a very enjoyable affair that evening. We had of course brought with us gin and scotch and despite our language problems were able to purchase some soda water from one of the local shops.
Our meal at the "resort" restaurant was good. We were intrigued by an unusual rissole like dish. Apparently, it was "Mongolian Vegetable", a mixture of cabbage, carrot, cauliflower and eggs fried and then placed in a spicy sauce. It was intriguing in its meat like texture but quite delicious. Rigzen joined us for dinner but the reserved Sonam obviously had another place to stay. We enjoyed a pleasant but early night - before the power went off.
As promised, our kind manager brought us hot water first thing in the morning. We did not have any electricity and so we went for any early walk before breakfast around Alchi village.
There was not a lot to see in Alchi, although it was interesting to look at the tiny stone walled local houses. One house had a lovely black yak grazing in the front. When we looked over the wall to say hello, we were fiercely berated by an elderly woman who made it more than clear that she wanted us to go away - fast. "Hmm, friendly locals" we thought. On the other hand the local shop owners had been very charming and friendly and the management of our "resort" was very helpful. We noted that the Alchi men tended to be a lot friendlier than the women.
We walked down along narrow channel lined lanes toward the nearby Indus River to see an enormous dam, presumably used for hydro electricity purposes. We were interested to see weeds - the same as those we have in Australia - such as Dock, Convolvulus, Mustard and Dandelions growing everywhere. Ripening barley crops looked in fine condition as did the
meandering donkeys, sheep and yaks.
It was school time and we were amused to see the local school bus was used for transporting goods as well as school children. Several men were busy loading up the roof with large sacks of dried yak dung. Interestingly, there was not a woman to be seen.
After breakfast Rigzen met us for a visit to the Alchi Monastery or Chhoksor Monastery Complex. The complex comprises four separate settlements in Alchi village. Of these the Alchi Monastery is said to be the oldest and most famous. Then again, every Buddhist temple we were to visit over the next few days was either the oldest, largest or most famous. According to local tradition, the complex was built by the great scholar and translator Guru Rinchen Zangpo between 958 and 1005 AD. It is now UNESCO Heritage Listed.
The monastery was tiny but attractive, with some lovely old murals adorning the interior. Apparently, these are some of the oldest surviving paintings in Ladakh. We were however not allowed to take any photos and the half asleep monk guarding the monastery was most unfriendly.
Already, we were beginning to tire of Buddhist temples - and we knew we had heaps more to visit over the next three days in Ley.