The K1 Challenge - Hiking in Sri Lanka - Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka
Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka
Living in a beautiful island called Sri Lanka we seldom explore the scenic beauty that captures our hearts and souls. However, once you start the journey you are hooked for life. I started 2015 with the intention of doing something different, taking a journey that would bring out my passion for travel and thirst for adventure. Hence, my new year resolution to conquer the highest peaks accessible in Sri Lanka was conceived based on a spur of the moment decision to go on a hike.
The journey I undertook was to climb Kirigal Potta, the 2nd highest mountain and accessible peak in Sri Lanka. It stands 2,388 meters or 7,835 feet above sea level. The trip is over 7 km one way and accessible from Horton Plains National Park situated in Nuwaraeliya. The popular notion is that one in every eight people who try to access the peak fails to do so.
Come the early morning hours of the first Saturday in 2015, the 3rd of January I am grumpy and sleepy when picked up along with 11 other participants at two thirty in the morning. And so begins a journey to reach the mountain side of Sri Lanka. I can't remember much of the ride in the coach we traveled but I couldn't sleep well as the driver and his assistant kept chatting throughout the journey. Not that I'm complaining, I'd rather bear the constant chatter than falling down a precipice or meeting a lamp post head on while taking the curvaceous route that leads to Nuwaraeliya.
It's seven in the morning and a slight hunger is nagging in my stomach. I need my early morning cup of tea to feel human and approachable again. However, it's another half hour before we reach the B&B rest that will provide us with a hearty breakfast of toast, plain bread and sunny side up eggs with butter, coconut sambol and a hot cup of tea. Until then I gaze out the window and enjoy the view of the mountainside where the sun is awakening the mountains with a bright glare.
After breakfast it's another thirty minute ride to the Horton Plains National Park. I'm feeling heavy and tired after a hearty breakfast and keep my eyes closed with the intention of resting. But I don't fall asleep as there is a constant chatter from my fellow hikers who are excited about the long and maybe perilous journey we are about to undertake.
One final check to make sure my shoe laces and tied and tucked in, adjust the 3 layers of clothes I'm wearing and check and secure my backpack. I feel bulky in a thick t-shirt, a long sleeved shirt on top of it and finally my jacket. I step out of the coach and a chilly wind greets me. I'm glad i'm wearing the three layers of clothing and zip up my jacket. For anyone who has not traveled to Nuwaraeliya it's the coldest geographical location in this island. The temperature is at 11 degrees Celsius on the morning of our hike. However, the sun is out and it shines on my hands and face where my skin is exposed warming me up slightly.
We begin our journey to trek the mountain at eleven in the morning. We take a group photo at the starting point after picking up our gloves and hiking sticks. Our guides check our shoes and based on how well suited the shoes we wear are to grip the tough terrain we will tread we are placed in a single row. Once the initial few meters are trekked we are reshuffled again and guess who gets to be in front? Our tour team leader leads the way and I'm scampering to keep pace as I'm still a bit groggy after being sleep deprived. However, my excitement and the adrenalin it produces slowly energizes me. The chilly wind blowing in my face quickens the process.
The journey is long so we go from the beginning at a brisk pace. I can keep up but the terrain slows me down as the footing is never sure as thick brush covers the ground. I stumble along avoiding the hidden pits and stones that jut out. Moreover, the ground is slippery due to the rain that has fallen over the past few weeks. So I need to avoid the mud and make sure I don't go ankle deep in the bog. The bog is black sludge and just mud but it seeps through your shoes and freezes your feet and toes. After an hour be prepared not to feel your toes. But don't worry, they survive the journey. This is when I realize how badly I need to invest in a pair of good water proof hiking boots.
While still on flat ground the trail carved out for us to travel is full of thorny shrubs. So prepare to feel a bit of pain when they prick you if you are not wearing thick cargo pants or appropriate trousers. My pants are thick so I avoid a lot of scratches but the thorns prick at my legs knee down and its not a pleasant experience. After a kilometer or so my body starts to warm up and I take off my jacket. The 2 t-shirts are enough to protect my body and I'm moving fast that my heart is pounding and the blood circulation is in full swing.
One hour into the journey the ground starts to elevate and we enter a more dense forest area. The plantation grows just above six feet and both fresh and dry branches stick out into the narrow path I travel. We are told to raise our arms and avoid getting hit in the face and eyes by these obstacles. Furthermore, we need to keep a safety distance between each other to avoid the backlash of the branches pushed by the person in front whipping back to hit us in the face if we are following behind.
The first rest stop after over one and a half kilometers into the journey is near a small stream. Fresh water spouts out from a group of rocks and the plains spread out around us. The trees in the distance are lush and green but the long and thick grass that grows on the flat ground stays thick and brown. The sun that shines makes it look golden when reflecting back. I'm glad I have my shades and a cap on. Clear skies, warm sunshine and cool pure water. I sit on a rock and take it all in. Nature at its best and the beauty is astounding. The air I breath is chilly and fresh that it burns.
After a brief respite we continue on our journey. Walking a narrow path on uneven ground with slippery stones and large tree roots jutting out makes me extra cautious. Mainly because I have almost tripped a couple of times. The roots and stones jutting out are well hidden under the thick brush hence a hiking stick is a must for this journey. The gloves help to hold on to the thin trunks of the small plants that grow on either side of the narrow path we take. It's amazing how nature has ensured a safety hold at the right strategic points for us to grasp and get a sure footing.
The pure cool air and warm sunlight only add to the joy of witnessing the beauty of nature that surrounds us. The many shades of green soothes the eyes and the sound of life reminds me of the dependence of many living creatures on the terrain we tread. From wast open spaces we move on to dark forest areas that engulf the single traveler, surrounding me with tall trees that are covered by thick veins and a heavy underbrush. It's dark and a bit gloomy as the sunlight is prevented from entering into the forest by the green veins that cover the trees like a netted ceiling.
The final few kilometers of the journey are the worst. The bog gets thicker and spreads out a long distance. The effort to avoid falling knee deep into the thick dark mud can get tedious. The mud is so thick you can sink in within seconds if you keep your foot on it for too long. The thick mud seeps inside your shoes and after a while the cooling sensation is not so pleasant as your feet are frozen. I just keep moving fast hoping the blood circulation will not stop my toes from functioning. Thoughts of cutting off my poor toes make me move faster even though my legs and quads are tired and starting to fatigue.
The final stretch is very slippery and the path is much steeper. We continue either up hill or down hill and neither is easy. Going up hill is an effort and I make sure I get a firm grip on rocks or plant trunks to hoist my self up a steep path. Going down hill means the chance of slipping is high due to the muddy terrain we tread upon hence you hold on to the growth of thick shrubs on either side and try to make sure you don't end up on your bottom. We come across another small stream and take a few minutes to respite as the last five hundred meters looms steeply ahead of us.
It's all up hill now and you are looking at a ridge of pure grey rock that you need to conquer to make it to the top. We abandon our walking sticks and before long some of the team are crawling on both hands and feet. I keep climbing up and using my body to balance. The rock is steep and extremely narrow and when you look down its an over thousand meters dead drop. A few of our members have vertigo and are afraid of heights. This is the slowest we have trekked on this journey. Slowly and gradually we make our way and climb one of the narrowest rocks I have ever trekked. And suddenly we are in open space.
We have made it to the top. I just take off my back pack and collapse on to a rock at the edge. I take in the fact that I am now seated at the second highest peak in Sri Lanka and over 2000 meters above sea level. I watch my other team mates slowly make it to the top. They take a couple of seconds to recover but look equally as awed as I am. Wherever you look you see distant mountain tops meeting a clear blue sky. The view is breathtaking. The breeze is a bit strong on top and extremely chilly. I am suddenly chilled to the bone. I put on my jacket and start having my lunch. Not that I'm hungry but I know that my body will need the energy to do the trek back.
I am deliriously happy. I have trekked over seven kilometers of difficult terrain. I feel I have achieved something only a few people on this planet can claim to have done. I am proud of my fitness level and the strength of my mind that kept me going and finish the journey I started four and a half hours back. Yes, the time is three thirty in the afternoon now.
Just over one year back I was over weight, completely unfit and was suffering from a really bad lower back pain. It took a lot of time and effort to get my fitness and health back and as much as I was determined to get back on track I never imagined that I would complete such a tedious hike and climb one of the toughest mountains in Sri Lanka.
We enjoy our camaraderie on top taking photographs and enjoying the scenic view we are feeling very privileged to witness. After a final few group shots its time for us to leave. It's nearly five in the evening and the sun is setting. The warmth of the sun is slowly receding and it has become extremely cold mainly because of the chilly breeze that engulfs us from all directions. I am chilled to the bone and impatient to start the journey back. I need to move and get the blood circulating in my body and keep myself warm.
As we set out on the journey back down the mountain we witness a pair of eagles freely floating and playing against a stunning sunset. It's truly amazing how carefree wildlife is when there is no human interference. This is nature at its natural best, uninhibited and pure. As much as we are aware that daylight is fading we cannot resist a moment to witness this sight and take a few last minute photos.
The trek down the mountain is faster than the pace we set for the climb. There is an urgency to make it back to the Horton Plains before the sun sets and we are engulfed in complete darkness. Suddenly I find that I am pushing myself and the others to walk fast as the darkness starts to creep in gradually. At the same time I don't feel afraid as our trusted team leader guides us through the same terrain we walked earlier.
There is a confidence that we will make it back and the path back seems much easier. Maybe it's because we are going downhill most of the time as there are only a few steep areas we need to climb back or maybe it's because I grit my teeth and just keep moving on. My legs are aching and both toes feel very painful with each step I take. All I can do is ignore the pain and keep stumbling through the rough path filled with rocks, tree roots that jut out or jump over fallen branches. Through the trees and through the bog, through the brush and through the mud I just keep moving on.
Much of the journey back is a blur. The focus was to make it back before the darkness set hence I hardly stopped to enjoy the sights and sounds that greeted me earlier. Now we just want to make it back to the Plains before its dark. After all we are in a National Park and as much as nature is delightful it can turn dangerous at any given time. There is lightning in the distance over the dark storm clouds we saw while on top.
When we reach the plains it's completely dark but the moonlight guides us. We are trekking on an alien land one night before a full moon is due. The silver light is not bright but just pale enough to show us the path that we take. I look up at the sky and suddenly I'm awed. It's amazing how the stars seem brighter when you look up from a wast empty space. So many stars and constellations. I spot a few familiar constellations like Orion with Sirius shining bright a few miles away and the Question mark or Bow and Arrow. If you have studied the night sky and identified constellations and planets as a child you can spot a few familiar planets like Venus and Mars.
There is a moment when fear creeps in as our tour guide admits he's lost. He says it quietly to a few of us who are right in front. I keep my faith in him and follow him on the path he leads us. Everywhere I look its bare and open land. there are hardly any landmarks to spot apart from a few distant trees. I realize how badly we are off track when the terrain I walk on is treacherous as its retreaded and the stumbling gets worse. There are holes on the ground that you can't see mainly because of the brush that covers it. So I end up stepping on steep holes and uneven rocks that jut out and stumble badly. Luckily I don't fall and land on my bottom. That would have caused more embarrassment than physical pain.
We keep walking till we find the right path. A few minutes and meters of uncertainty and finally I feel familiar terrain. This is because of the thorny underbrush that pricks my legs. For once it's very welcome and the pain i feel is a relief. Since we continue to travel at a faster pace there is no time to push the thorny shrubs away or avoid their path by walking sideways. I guess my legs are numb from the exhaustion and cold.
It's closer to seven in the night when we sight the official building that houses the park rangers at Horton plains. The white walls are visible against the pale moonlight. There are no lights on or maybe I just can't spot them. I'm so tired and on automatic mode just taking it one step at a time. I can't remember much but suddenly we are at the spot where we took our first group photo and then a few meters later I spot our coach.
We take off our muddy shoes and slip on our flip flops. Return the gloves and hiking sticks. Even though my shoes and socks are baked in mud my feet are surprisingly clean. I expected them to be brown and stained in mud but they look pale and continue to feel the bitter cold. It has become very cold with the night setting in and the breeze growing stronger. It envelopes you and I realize that I'm shivering so I quickly rush in to the bus and sit. I'm tired and exhausted but can't sleep even though I keep my eyes closed throughout the journey back to our rest stop.
Once at the B&B I quickly shower. The hot water has stopped working but I don't care. I need to shower and feel clean or I'll feel uncomfortable throughout the journey back home. I bath in the freezing cold water that it burns me. I'm shivering but it feels so good to wash away the fatigue and mud off me. I quickly change into new warm clothes and go to the dining area for dinner. I feel thirsty but not too hungry but I eat as I know I need the energy for my body to recover and heal after the long and tedious journey I have taken. Over 15 kilometers of pushing my body to its limits that it had not experienced before.
Once we get on the bus there is hardly much chatter. Everyone is too fatigued. I close my eyes and try to sleep. I think I drift in and out of sleep but can't remember the time pass or whether I slept at all. The next thing I know I'm at home by four in the morning. Another warm shower and I fall asleep.
Climbing Kirigal Potta was a memorable experience. I enjoyed the hike that I will make it an ongoing journey. I want to climb all the peaks in Sri Lanka that are over 2,000 meters. There are 13 such peaks and I'm looking forward to it. This is a journey I will undertake for my personal growth as this experience gave me both happiness and the ability to understand the limits I can push both my body and mind. I love to travel and combine it with adventure. Conquering the highest peaks in Sri Lanka will help me fulfill this passion. Hence, a new resolution is made for 2015 and I will continue to pen my journey for those who wish to experience it with me.
Link to video on expedition:
http://youtu.be/Uipfmf5Aayg
Credits:
This hike was organized by Little Adventures. For more details check out their FB page on
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Little-a dventures/183236188383766
or contact Ashan Seneviratne on +94722266688
Video & Photo credits:
Ashan Seneviratne
Pasindu Tillekeratne
My own