Completing the Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop – The Dodson Trail
Awoken by nature in the Chihuahuan Desert
I awoke thirsty in the Chihuahuan Desert in Big Bend National Park to grunting and footsteps outside my tent. I did not hang my food because there was nowhere to hang it. I was in the middle of a desert. My food and pack were right outside my tent. I poked my head outside to see three mule deer grazing nearby. At the appearance of my head they took off over the ridge. I am sure when my tent opened they were hit with an offensive smell.
Homer Wilson Ranch and water was the goal
I had four miles to hike to Homer Wilson Ranch to get my gallon of water I had stashed. I got up and packed quickly as I did not want to waste any of the cool morning temperatures. I forced a pop tart down my dry mouth even though I was not hungry and continued the adventure.
The scene I awoke to in Big Bend’s Chihuahuan Desert
Read part I of the hike – Big Bend Chisos Mountain Hike
Read part II of the hike – Big Bend Juniper Canyon hike
Easiest section of the Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop
Fortunately, this stretch of the trail was much easier than the first part of the Dodson Trail that killed me the day before. A lot of this part of the trail followed a flat dry arroyo. While hiking in the dry riverbed I fantasized that it had clear cool flowing water up to my ankles, and I was able to dip my cup and quench my parched throat.
Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop levels off on the Dodson Trail
My fear was that I would accidentally walk off the trail as desert trails are sometimes not the easiest to follow. Even getting lost for 15 minutes would not be good as it would be that much time without my life source water cache. Fortunately, the park does a great job of marking the trail with cairns, so I never strayed off the trail.
Not a cairn in the world about losing the trail thanks to these piles of rocks showing me the way
A couple hours later, A familiar butte came into view. I also saw signs of old fences, so I figured I was in the vicinity of the old Homer Wilson Ranch and most importantly, my extra water. I came around the bend in front of the rock face and the ranch came into view. I also saw something I had not seen in two days – people.
Happy to see this butte as I was close to my precious
The beautiful butte in front of the Homer Wilson Ranch
Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop – I sure was glad to see this
A reunion with my precious
I put my pack down at the ranch and walked over to retrieve my precious. There was also extra water left by good hiking Samaritans as well as some oatmeal bars and a bag of pot. I thought I was hallucinating for a second, but it was definitely cannabis. The last thing I needed in my mouth was hot smoke, so I left it for the next hiker. All I wanted was my precious water.
My precious water
Free water, oatmeal, and a bag of pot
I met a very nice couple, and I was so tempted to ask them for a ride back to my car and forgo the last 10 miles of this trip. Even though I had only walked 4 miles this day, I was pretty tired out from the lack of water and the heat. I found out later that the high this day was 98, and I think the day before was hotter. I could not live with myself if I wimped out, and I really wanted to complete the challenge. It would have been a cop out to quit now. Although I was hot and thirsty, I knew I could make it. I was just a little dehydrated and not near any danger zone. Plus, I had my beautiful water.
Grueling hike back up to the Chisos Mountains
The good news – I had plenty of water, the bad news – my backpack was pretty heavy again, and the worst news – I had to hike up to the top of the Chisos Mountains again. I had about 3 miles more of level hiking through more dry gulches until the trail started going up, up, and up.
Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop – Blue Creek Trail
Once I began gaining altitude again, I hiked in 15 minute increments before throwing off my pack, gulping water, and slumping onto my pack. Two people in horses came down the trail. I asked them where my horse was. They laughed, but they stopped laughing when one horse refused to walk past me. The rider had to dismount and lead his horse past me even though I had backed off the trail. After three days hiking in the hot desert, I am sure I smelled pretty bad. They said the horses are not used to the shape of people with backpacks.
“It is a beautiful world out there.”
The last thing the horseman said to me was “it is a beautiful world out there,” as he stretched his hands out pointing to the view in front of us. Despite my worn out condition, as I limped up the Chisos Mountains, I could not agree more with his words of wisdom. The golden desert spread out below us, and I could see where I had come from. It was magnificent.
View of the Chihuahuan Desert as I climb back up into the Chisos
I continued onward in the same slow fashion. Finally, I saw a sign, and I realized I had reached the Chisos Mountains plateau. I had to hike less than a mile over the plateau to the Laguna Meadows Trail that went straight down to the Chisos Basin and back to my car. It was about 3.5 miles down to the basin. I was so glad to have the hard part of the hike over. Usually, I hike a good 2-3 mile per hour clip, but today I had barely averaged over 1-1.5. It would be close to 6 p.m. before I got in.
Roadrunner on top of a rock
Downward to the Chisos Basin and a completion of the Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop
As I got close to the Chisos Basin parking lot, a turkey buzzard was in a tree next to the trail. He was probably waiting to see if any Outer Mountain Loop hikers were ready to collapse. I know I felt close, but not today Mr. Turkey Vulture.
Turkey vulture keeping an eye on me as I approach the end of the Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop hike
I could see buildings and a road close by, and the end of the Outer Mountain Loop was near. Just as I was about ready to hit the home stretch, a road runner emerged from the brush and practically walked over my feet. He stopped and preened himself, while I took photographs. He was the second I had seen today. I saw another one atop a rock while in the desert.
Roadrunner in the thickets at the end of the Big Bend Outer Mountain Loop hike
I then limped into the parking lot, threw off my backpack, and bought two powerades and a chocolate milk. I was even too dehydrated for my traditional end of hike beer. It was a tremendous feeling to finally be done. The Outer Mountain Loop was an incredible challenge. Despite the difficulties, it was worth it to see the amazing backcountry scenery and experience 3 days of complete solitude. The best part of it was the feeling of accomplishment at the end.
TT
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