In several ways, September serves as a month that serves as a trailer to the blockbuster festivities that follow in the last three months of the year. With Navratri, Durga Puja, Dussehra, Diwali and Christmas lining up from October onwards September is reserved for two major regional festivals. Ganesh Chaturthi, which is celebrated primarily in Maharashtra but also in other pockets of the country, will start on September 5. A week later, on September 14, just as Maharashtra is set to bid its favorite god goodbye, Kerala’s Onam celebrations will reach their peak. Besides these two, there are several other festivals being celebrated across the length and breadth of the country. If these don’t inspire you to explore your own backyard, we don’t know what will. So, are you ready for a sneak peek into India’s varied and colorful culture?
1. Athachamayam
Where: Thripunithura, near Kochi
When: September 4
Athachamayam is a cultural gala that marks the beginning of Onam celebrations. Held in the historical town of Thripunithura near Kochi, Athachamayam is a bright and colorful procession that showcases various folk art forms. The procession has caparisoned elephants and floats that showcase the varied sub-cultures of Kerala. Athachamayam’s history can be traced back to the time when the king of Kochi would lead a victory march from Tripunithura to the Vamanamoorthy Temple in Thrikkakara. (ALSO READ Tripunithura: Steeped in history, lost to time) The temple is believed to have been constructed at the very spot that Mahabali was dismissed into the netherworlds. Another of Athachamayam’s highlights is the pookalam (floral rangoli) competition that sees some of the best pookalam artists putting their best foot forward.
ALSO READ Best places to visit in Kochi
2. Ganesh Chaturthi
When: September 5-15
Where: Mumbai and Pune
Falling on the fourth day of the Hindu month of Bhadrapada, Ganesh Chaturthi is one of Maharashtra’s biggest and longest festivals. It is also one of those festivals that aren’t just celebrated on the streets but also in people’s homes. The history of Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations is an interesting one. Public festivities began during the era of Shivaji in Pune. The celebrations continued during the era of the Peshwas whose family deity Ganesha was. As the Maratha Empire flourished and expanded, the celebrations became bigger and grander. But as with everything that goes up, the empire began to crumble and with its downfall the Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations also became less opulent. By the time the British began to have a say in the politics of the country, the festival was largely celebrated privately with families bringing home clay idols of Ganesha and worshipping it for one-and-a-half, five, seven or eleven days. It was only in 1894, at the peak of the British rule in India that the celebrations became public again, under the most fascinating circumstances. The Maharashtrian freedom fighter and social reformer Lokmanya Tilak praised the public festivities of Ganesh Chaturthi and urged people to celebrate it in a manner that it used to be celebrated. To set an example, he started the practice himself by installing a public idol in Kesari Wada, his home and office of Kesari newspaper.
It was Tilak who made Ganesha accessible to the masses, a privilege that was once reserved only for the high caste Brahmins. Through the public festivities, Tilak hoped to bridge the gap between the Brahmins and the non-Brahmins and rally support for the ongoing struggle for freedom. The initial festivities involved poetry recitals, play performances, music and folk dance concerts and intellectual discourses and they served as a common platform for people from various communities to meet and exchange ideas. Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations also served as a front for anti-Empire activities with freedom fighters meeting in secret under the pretext of praying to the elephant-headed god. The celebrations have evolved a lot since then.
Even though the celebrations take place in different parts of the country, the most spectacular ones happen in Mumbai and, of course, Pune. Which of the two cities throws a bigger party is a question that is hotly debated. While Pune has a far richer and longer history of celebrating the festival (it did start during Shivaji’s time here), Mumbai has some spectacular mandals too.
ALSO READ Ganesh Chaturthi: Should you be in Mumbai or Pune?
Think Ganesh Chaturthi and the first name that comes to mind will most likely be of the 82-year-old Lalbaugcha Raja. The idol, largest in the city, attracts some 1.5 million devotees each year with devotees queuing up for as many as four to five hours just to catch a glimpse of the idol. At the same time, how can you disregard the grand celebrations of Pune’s Kasba Ganpati or the splendor of the Dagdusheth Ganpati?
While the debate rages on, you can make up your mind by visiting Ganpati mandals in Pune or those in Mumbai yourself!
Want to know more about Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations? Here is everything you need to know about it!
ALSO READ Best places to see Ganesh Visarjan in Mumbai
3. Onam
Photograph: Shutterstock
When: September 14
Where: Kerala
The harvest festival of Kerala is also the state’s biggest and the grandest. No festival, not even Diwali, is celebrated on the scale of Onam in Kerala. And why shouldn’t it be? Besides being a harvest festival, Onam also celebrates the return of Mahabali, the beloved mythological king of Kerala who sacrificed his life to save that of his people. The main day of Onam is called Thiru Onam. It falls on September 14 this year but the festivities around it begin as many as 10 days earlier.
Onam celebrations are so big that this year Pinarayi Vijayan, the chief minister of Kerala had to officially forbid civil servants from hosting Onam celebrations during office hours.
The legend behind the origin of Onam celebrations is a fascinating one. It begins with Mahabali, the Asura king who was as powerful as he was loved by his people. As he began extending the boundaries of his kingdom, he conquered the netherworld and also the heavens. The gods grew wary of his growing powers and so requested Aditi, the mother of the Devas to petition before Vishnu to contain the king. Vishnu agreed to help. But rather than taking on Mahabali in open battle, Vishnu decided to be smart about defeating his adversary. He disguised himself as a Brahmin dwarf Vamana — who is recognized as the fifth incarnation of Vishnu — and approached Mahabali during a yagna or fire sacrifice. He impressed the king with his knowledge and in return Mahabali granted him a wish. Without paying heed to the warnings of his guru Shukracharya, who recognized Vamana’s true colors instanty, Mahabali declared that he would consider it no greater sin than going back on one’s word. Vamana merely asked for just three paces of land and Mahabali felt vindicated. He agreed to grant Vamana the three paces of land but was horrified when the dwarf revealed his true identity. Right before Mahabali’s eyes, the legends say, Vamana grew in stature. He took his first step and covered the sky. His second step covered the netherworld. But just as Vamana was about to take his final step and destroy earth, Mahabali offered his own head. Vamana stepped over it and banished him to the underworld but not before granting him a boon. Since Mahabali was so attached to his people, Vishnu granted him a boon that he would be allowed to visit his people once every year. Onam is the day that marks the return of Mahabali to earth. Kerala pulls all stops in paying tribute to the king who sacrificed himself for his people.
There is another version of the legend too. It paints Mahabali as an ardent devotee of Vishnu and a just ruler. But as with humans, Mahabali had a flaw: his ego. So as to rid his favorite devotee of his one single flaw, Vishnu incarnated himself as Vamana and asked Mahabali for three paces of land. The rest of the story remains unchanged as Mahabali is banished to the netherworld and freed from the recurring cycle of birth and death. This also makes a celebration of the beginning of a new life of truth, piety and humility.
NOW READ Everything you wanted to know about Onam but didn’t know who to ask!
4. Ramnagar Ramlila
Photograph courtesy: Anita Satyajit/Creative Commons
When: September 15-October 16
Where: Ramnagar, Varanasi
The oldest Ramleela in the world is staged at Ramnagar across the river Ganga from Varanasi. Ramleela performances in Ramnagar began around 1830 when Udit Narayan Singh, the Kashi Naresh or the king of Kashi (another name for Varanasi) commissioned a performance. As years passed by the popularity of the Ramleela performances only increased and it continued to receive patronage from the royal family. What makes the Ramnagar Ramlila (or Ramleela) set apart is the fact that uses the entire city as its stage, is participatory and lasts 31 days as against the traditional 10-day performances popular around the country. The number of audiences for the performances varies from day to day. It can be as little as a few hundred people and can go as high as 100,000. While the origins of the Ramnagar Ramleela are a little sketchy, according to some estimates, the first such performance was staged at Chota Mirzapur, a village near Varanasi after the one in the city was disrupted due to floods in the Ganga. It is from here that the present-day Ramnagar Ramlila (or Ramleela) evolved. This performance of the Ramleela is considered to be the most tradition rendition of the Ramayana.
Ramnagar Ramlila is known for its lavish sets and uses various parts of the town to perform different segments. The performances are so integral to the town’s culture that there are several permanent structures built exclusively for Ramleela performances. More temporary structures are added for the duration of the performance. In essence, the entire city of Ramnagar gets transformed into a giant open-air set and the audience moves from one venue to another with each episode and change of scene.
Preparations for the Ramnagar Ramlila begin weeks before the actual performance. The local king attends these auditions and the characters are chosen from among the local actors. Some central roles are inherited by few families. For instance, Ravana was played by sons of the same family between 183 and 1990. Similarly the characters of Hanuman, Janaka and Jatayu are played by one particular Vyasa family.
Another highlight of the Ramnagar Ramlila is the spectacular pageant that announces the inauguration of the festival. It is led by Kashi Naresh or the king of Varanasi as he welcomes hundreds of ascetics, devotees and tourists. The faithful even carry a copy of the Ramacharit Manas, the poem in Awadhi dialect that narrates the story of Ramayana, and follow the performance stanza-wise. The performance comes to an end with the return of Rama and this is where the Kashi Naresh plays a part and welcomes him home. Needless to say, the high point of the Ramngar Ramlila is the burning of the Ravana effigy.
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5. Aranmula Snake Boat Race
Photograph: Shutterstock
Where: Aranmula, Kerala
When: September 17, 2016
Snake boat races form an important part of Onam festivities. And the Aranmula Snake Boat Race is second only to the more popular Nehru Boat Race. What sets Aranmula Snake Boat Race apart is that it is also the oldest in the state and stresses on doing things the traditional way. The history of the Aranmula Snake Boat Race can be tracved back to the time when an unnamed Brahmin promised to offer the requirements for the thiruvonasadya (the feast that is held on the day of Thiruvonam) at the Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple. Once, while transporting these offerings on a boat, he was attacked and the boat looted. So, as to protect the offerings, locals began accompanying it on their own snake boats. This practice eventually metamorphosed into a race that is held every year to this very day.
ALSO READ 15 photos that prove Kerala is the best family destination
6. Naropa
When: September 16-22
Where: Hemis Monastery, Ladakh
Naropa claims to be the Kumbh Mela of the Himalayas. Held once every 12 years, the festival is celebrated in the honor of the eponymous scholar saint who is believed to have shaped the identity and culture of Buddhism. Naropa’s life is held as an example of endurance, perseverance and determination and his teachings (Six Yogas of Naropa) form the fundamental pillars of Vajrayana Buddhist tradition. Quite like Buddha, Naropa too was born to nobility but embraced spirituality when he was still very young. He belonged to the Drukpa Order of Himalayan Buddhism.
This festival features performances by local artistes as well as well-known celebrities. This is also the time when Saint Naropa’s holy Six Bone Ornaments are put out on public display and an elaborate ceremony follows.
ALSO READ Best places to visit in Ladakh
7. Puli Kali
Photograph: Shutterstock
When: September 17
Where: Thrissur, Kerala
Puli Kali (or Tiger Play) is one of the most curious rituals of Kerala. A day after Chatayamm, the final day of Onam a procession featuring bare-bodied men sets out in Thrissur pretending to be tigers. This procession is called Puli Kali and is one of the many celebrations associated with Onam. Local men get their bodies and faces painted as lions and tigers and dance as part of a procession. The performance is a game of hide-and-seek in which they must protect themselves from a mock hunter who is chasing them with his gun. The dance moves of the men depict thus a tiger being chased by a hunter.
Origins of Puli Kali can go back to the reign of Rama Varma Sakthan Thampuran the king of Kochi. He introduced the folk art form in the hope that the dance would reflect the wild and macho spirit of the force. As time passed, participants included Muslim soldiers of the British Army who were at the time stationed in Thrissur too. The participants have to sit through a long process of getting themselves painted. They first have to shave their body hair, get a first coat of paint and wait for it to dry. Then a second coat is painted and the result is something quite spectacular. The art form dates back to the 18th century.
ALSO READ Best places to visit in Thrissur
8. Ladakh Festival
Photograph: Shutterstock
When: September 18-25
Where: Leh and neighboring villages
The good folks at Jammu and Kashmir Tourism are responsible for organizing Ladakh Festival in September every year. Ladakh festival is an initiative by the state government to engage with and promote local communities. The annual carnival doesn’t just attract people from neighboring districts but also travelers from outside of the state and even foreigners. Ladakh Festival’s primary objective is to highlight the lifestyle and culture of the people of Ladakh.
Held primarily in Leh town and the neighboring villages, the festival begins with a grand inaugural ceremony. The highlight of the ceremony is a grand procession that sees active participation from various cultural troupes. As the procession moves from Leh market and comes to an end at the polo grounds, it showcases various sub-cultures of the region as well as their art, music and dances.
The seven-day Ladakh Festival also features polo matches, archery competitions, masked and costume dances and musical performances. On display (and on sale) are the colorful handicrafts of the region. Ladakh Festival is also the best place to sample a wide variety of local Ladakhi cuisine that may not necessarily be available under one roof.
ALSO SEE Ladakh travel guide
9. Ziro Festival of Music
When: September 22-25
Where: Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh
In its fifth edition, Ziro Festival of Music 2016 calls itself the greatest outdoor music festival in the country. Sure it features some stellar acts but its setting — right in the arms of the lush Ziro Valley of Arunachal Pradesh — is what makes Ziro Festival truly stand out. Over the years, Ziro Festival of Music or ZFM has featured some spectacular performances by the likes of Lee Ranaldo and Steve Shelley, Ganesh Talkies, The Supersonics, The Vinyl Records, Shaa’ir n Func, menwhopause, Peter Cat Recording Co, Whirling Kalapas, Digital Suicide, Sulk Station, Indus Creed, Tetseo Sisters, Imphal Talkies, Ska Vengers, Sky Rabbit, Street Stories, Yesterdrive, Guru Rewben Mashangva, Omak Komut Collective and of course Lou Majaw among others.
ALSO READ How to reach Ziro
Ziro valley is one of Arunachal Pradesh’s best-known gems. Home to the Apatanis, a non-nomadic, agrarian tribe, Ziro has lush green paddy fields and azure blue skies. Farmers of Ziro rear fish, have Indian bisons for company and eat Mithuns for meals. The older Apatani women are known for their intricate facial tattoos and are usually open to being photographed if asked politely. Ziro is also known to have the largest number of schools in Arunachal Pradesh and boasts of an average literacy rate of 66 per cent, much higher than the national average of 59.5 per cent.
ALSO READ Everything you wanted to know about Ziro Festival of Music
Still need a reason to visit Arunachal Pradesh? Here is your 10-day itinerary to Arunachal Pradesh
10. Neelamperoor Padayani
Photograph courtesy: Wikimedia Commons
When: September 29
Where: Palli Bhagavathi temple, Alappuzha, Kerala.
The festival of Kerala’s Palli Bhagavathi temple is one that blends elements of Hindu as well as Buddhist cultures. Certain rituals are similar to ceremonies held in Sreemoolavarom, a former Buddhist center in Kerala as well as those reported by the Chinese traveler Fahiyan in ancient Patna. Neelamperoor Padayani features a spectacular display of elaborately decorated effigies of several mythological figures as well as of animals such as elephants and birds such as swans. The festival is a victory march of sorts and celebrates the defeat of Darika at the hands of Kali. Neelamperoor Padayani lasts 16 nights and draws to an end with a procession of effigies of mythological characters and swans that devotees offer to the goddess in the hope of getting their wishes fulfilled.
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