Snow, sleet and heavy wind hit New York City during its Fall/Winter 2014 shows, but the phrase “the show must go on” had never been more apt. The weather condition didn’t stop the editors, buyers, bloggers and celebrities from their appointed rounds. Obviously, nobody wanted to miss out on their favourite fashion designers!
NYFW may have just wrapped, but there is still plenty to talk about. Below are my top 8 collections, which will certainly be on my mind this week and beyond.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Menswear-inspired pieces and boxy silhouettes were out in full force at the 3.1 Phillip Lim show and yet, the collection still felt feminine. Oversized sweaters, leather jackets, sleek trousers, and double-breasted window pane suits in shades of plum, khaki, midnight blue, ochre and black gave the fashion-forward show an edge; while the lilac fur lapels, midi-satin skirts, chunky knits with cascades of ruffles and graffiti-inspired motifs gave it a soft and pretty vibe. Sure, the colour palette was something unusual, but Phillip Lim proved that he can literally do whatever he wants with colour and somehow, still make it work naturally.
ALEXANDER WANG
Inspired by National Geographic, the great outdoors, competitive sports and the urban landscape, Alexander Wang translated his ideas into sporty silhouettes with interesting details for his first runway show set in Brooklyn. High notes included tailored tunics layered with sharp shirts, neon jerseys, knotted leather-and-tulle sweaters, and short jackets with utility pockets over them. Wang is many things, but his forte is being one of the most innovative designers to show at New York Fashion Week. This season was no different. In the same spirit as his Spring 2013 glow-in-the-dark finale, he closed his show with thermal-activated leather clothes that changed colours from black to blues, yellows and purples. A-m-a-z-i-n-g!
HELMUT LANG
When given a solid colour palette, it’s always nice to see designers play around with textures, and Nicole and Michael Colovos did exactly that for Helmut Lang this season. Titled Rough Terrain, the collection was inspired by satellite photos of Mars. Models appeared on the catwalk wearing trans-seasonal pieces like fluffy fur sweaters, tunic dresses, tailored sweaters, angora knits, fur laser-cut sweatshirts, cocoon-shaped shearling jackets and stovepipe pants in white, black, taupe and fiery red. Hints of ’60s style were mixed with futuristic silhouettes in the collection too, with flared sleeves, flirty hemlines and turtlenecks (style book no-no’s?) – fret not; Helmut Lang’s airy turtlenecks will have you throwing your guidebooks out the window.
HUGO BOSS
Corporate dressing doesn’t have to be boring. Case in point: Hugo Boss Fall 2014. I personally think Jason Wu did a good job for his first collection for Hugo Boss. The German brand and the newly appointed artistic director have diametrically opposite aesthetics, but they successfully found a common ground in this collection. It was centered on structured designs with a cool and slightly feminine twist for women working in the business world. Think military-inspired coat dresses, mid-length dresses and suits in black, charcoal, camel, white and blush print with patchwork techniques. The variations gave off a slight swagger reminiscent of old Hollywood dandies. I can’t wait to see the other changes he has planned for Boss Womenswear!
MICHAEL KORS
Michael Kors’ collection was simply effortless. His cozy and slouchy knits remind us that we can be equally comfortable and stylish as the temperature drops. He mixed in a little Big Sur with the Big City, and redefined the meaning of luxe by combining tailored coats with charmeuse slip dresses, and chunky knits with suede fringe skirts. My favourite look? Definitely the ombré Aran pullover with a swingy chocolate brown fringe skirt!
PRABAL GURUNG
Prabal Gurung was one of the designers who showed a lot of versatility this season. The collection was seriously strong, and was all about the unity of tribalism and urban chic. Gurung took inspiration from Nepal, his homeland, and produced unique pieces in deep burgundy, marmalade orange, scarlet red and grey shades in luxurious textiles such as Mongolian lamb, fox and mink. Recalling a bundled-up Sherpa, he even combined a turtleneck, a suit vest and a draped sarong-like silk skirt – without looking like a tacky artistic experiment. Casual chic layering at its finest!
PROENZA SCHOULER
When donning the ‘Volume’ trend in separates, take a cue from the Proenza Schouler Fall 2014 collection. Garments tipped the scale with exaggerated fullness, and the prints and graphic detailing made ordinary cold weather go-to’s zesty trend staples. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough were able to push the boundaries with their jackets and coats with wide sleeves, round shoulders and cinched hourglass waists. The fashion show made me want to snuggle up with something voluminous this Fall – it is unfortunate that I live in a tropical country!
REED KRAKOFF
Reed Krakoff’s collection was definitely a winner for me. Luxurious fabrics? Check! Sharp cuts? Check! Great attention to detail? Check! Sleeveless cashmere coats, snakeskin wrap skirts, touches of pony hair on a vest and a shearling coat, dresses in dotted gold pattern and some other patchwork details were among the things that stood out. I’m just really glad that the designer does ready-to-wear now!
+++
Image credit: NYTimes