I had a flying visit to Canberra in late October for my aunt’s 90th birthday celebrations. While I there I managed a very quick trip to Addicted to Fabric. Wow, what a wonderful fabric shop! Large, light, bright and friendly. And in addition to many beautiful fabrics, they had a number of sample garments hanging up on display. Many of these were the Tessuti Eva dress, made in printed cotton sateens. I have made the Eva twice before, but always thought of it made from fabrics like linen. But after I saw these samples I was convinced – I needed one in cotton sateen!
As with my previous versions, I used size Medium. I have wondered a few times if I should downsize to the Small, but I know that in wearing – in contrast to when standing for photos – I prefer my garments to have more ease rather than less. I just find it more comfortable. I also shortened the skirt by taking a significant fold out of the pattern piece of the lower skirt.
In the sateen the lantern shape of the skirt is emphasised. It doesn’t collapse, but rather it becomes more sculptural. I really love this effect! I also copied Addicted to Fabric by using bias bindings around the edges rather than using bias binding as facings turned to the inside, as per the instructions. This makes the armholes and neckline a little smaller, and it makes them a little more defined and sculptural like the skirt shape. I also bound the hemline.
When binding necklines, armholes and hems like this it is much simpler and neater to apply the binding to the WRONG side of the garment, then turn it to the outside of the garment and topstitch in place, enclosing the seam allowances and covering the seamline. This way you will make sure that the binding is secure and the stitching will be straight and even on the outside. It won’t matter if it wavers a fraction on the inside. This is the opposite to the instructions for the binding on the Tessuti Ruby top, where you are directed to attach the bindings to the outside, turn to the inside enclosing the seam allowances, then stitch in the ditch to secure. It is SO difficult to do that stitching in the ditch neatly on the outside while ensuring that you catch all of the folded edge on the inside. Unless you prefer to hand-stitch your bindings in place on the inside, try doing things the opposite way as I just detailed. I’ve recently made a Ruby top and followed their binding instructions rather than doing it my own way, much to my chagrin!
The fabric was a gift from Anna, and it’s just perfect for me! Thank you so much! I really, really like this dress, and will definitely be using this pattern again. It fits right into my lifestyle – and my Funkis clogs and Elk jewellery work really well with it too.