Plus size. That contentious term that has reached a level of ubiquity thanks, in part, to an ongoing debate about what constitutes an acceptable representation of women and body image in ad campaigns and editorials. Each fashion week brings new initiatives for healthy eating, promises to move away from a size zero sample and, let’s face it, little follow through when it comes to actual diversity of size. Sure, some of the big guns have snapped up plus-size models and the expected headlines follow – but then, so does the inevitable return to the norm.
There’s no universal definition of what “plus-size” means. In fashion terms it’s been used to describe models who are not “straight size”, in other words, anything above the normal 4-6 sample size. But a quick Google search yields a whole host of varying definitions and shapes that, on the most part, seem to jar against what us mere mortals would regard as “plus”.
I have to be completely honest here. When I approached Iskra Lawrence to appear in this beauty feature, my motivation (read: tirade) was largely to make a point about the need for a greater representation of plus size models in the industry. But along with the likes of Ashley Graham and Candice Huffine, it would be wrong to place Iskra simply in a “plus size” box. What becomes instantly apparent the moment we meet is that it is neither her body nor her size that’s responsible for her success.
Actually, that’s not entirely true. Thanks to things like social media, Iskra is part of a whole new generation of models helping to transform young girl’s visions of beauty and what it means to be a model. Granted, we all know Cara Delevigne, Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner but there’s a whole host of successful curvy models working just as hard and making just as a much of an impact.
Iskra was the perfect interview subject because she’s the epitome of what we think when a Lifestyle Edit woman is. A finalist in an Elle Girl search for the next top model when at 13, she was quickly slammed by the industry and dropped by her agency for being “too big” the moment her body began to change. But instead of conforming, she took stock, repositioned herself as a curvy model, and made it her mission to be the change in the industry she wanted to see.
Ten years on, you’ll see her face in countless magazines and campaigns but it’s her work with American Eagle’s underwear line Aerie, that she’s most proud of. Launched in 2014, the award-winning campaign sees Iskra appear without an ounce of retouching. Part of her work now, then, is encouraging other brands to follow suit.
When we meet, she’s in London for a week of castings, before flying back to New York. Here she talks body image, keeping healthy and motivated and why she doesn’t compromise when it comes to keep her skin and body in tip-top knick. Prepare to be inspired.
BODY IMAGE
My mission all began when I created an unretouched calendar for cervical cancer with my friends. It looked so good, I was worried that people wouldn’t realise the images were not retouched so I felt like there needed to be some sort of logo that could people could look for as a stamp of approval. I pitched it to the biggest eating disorder charity in the world called Neda. They loved it so we created Neda Inspires. It’s forward thinking and is all about rewarding companies who try to do something positive. I think that should be the focus rather than simply slating companies who always use skinny models. For me, it’s always about doing something good and promoting a positive message. Eventually, we want to be the ultimate seal of approval. I want to see it in magazines but more than that, I want companies to really start embracing using models from different backgrounds, with different shapes, sizes and ages. Fashion should be relatable for everyone. Exclusivity is over. Today is about the social media movement. Consumers now have a voice and they want to see themselves – they want to be able to look in a magazine or at a campaign and see people who represent them.
I definitely feel a big responsibility. I receive so many direct messages from young girls saying how much I’ve helped them accept themselves. I’ve even had some say I’ve saved their lives! There’s such a big correlation between the media and how we feel about ourselves so I just feel honoured to be part of a more positive movement. It all stems from my experiences of being told that I’m too far and big for the industry and then being told that I’m too small for plus size. I always felt like I didn’t fit but rather than getting upset about it, I just thought, how can I make this work for me as I am. It’s all about being the change you want to see so I thought, if I want to see more girls like me bring represented, you know what, I’ll be that girl!
Models 1 have been amazing and my agency in New York, Jag are changing the modelling industry forever. Jag doesn’t put labels on models anymore. They represent all kinds of models. They’re making a stand to stop models from being categorised – why should women be made to feel like they’re being put in a box down to their size? And besides, the fact that if you’re over a size 4 or 8, you’re deemed plus size is crazy to me. That’s completely normal! “Plus size” is an outdated term. It doesn’t mean anything anymore. I don’t mind being called it, because to a large extent, it’s my job and I’ll happily work for a plus size brand but I jus don’t feel like it’s a label we need to have. We definitely don’t need secluded “plus size” sections of shops either. Why should we be made to feel bad about going into a tiny section of a shop that has clothes that fit us? I spoke to the editor of Cosmo in the UK and she said that she really wants to shoot a more diverse range of girls but all the samples she gets are a size 6 or 8 and plus size samples are in a 16 and 18 so it’s difficult to shoot girls who are in-between. It pretty much boils down to the designers. We need to keep showing that this is the way forward and that curvy women can look good in different fashions. Don’t be scared to dress us!
FITNESS
I treat myself as an athlete – when I go to the gym, the trainers always ask me what sport I do. I used to be a professional swimmer but over the past four years I’ve really invested in figuring out what works for my body. I’ve literally tried everything. I’ve had personal trainers and done just about every class you can imagine. It’s about learning what’s right for you and your body. I always want to give girls advice but everyone’s body is different. You really need to get allergy tests done and see how your body responds to different kinds of food. I struggle because I know my body doesn’t like diary – most people’s bodies don’t – but I love milkshake, cheese and ice cream. The key thing is moderation. If I could tell anyone anything, it would be to eat things in moderation and just be consistent with exercise.
Sometimes people look at me and ask how I got my abs but I always say that these abs started four years ago. It’s all about maintenance. You have to work on your diet as much as your fitness. You can’t just do 100 sit-ups and expect to have great abs. I tend not to do classes anymore because now, my workout is so tailored around what works for more body. I do thinks like box jumps, walking lunges, bench work, squats, single leg dead lifts and hardcore weights. It takes me at least an hour and half every gym session but it’s worth it. Keeping up my exercise when I’m travelling for jobs is hard but there is no excuse. All you need is space. Now, there are so many great YouTube videos and cool girls on Instagram doing at-home tutorials, there’s really no reason why any of us can’t work out on the go.
ROLE MODELS
I really admire Ashley [Graham]. Her confidence and journey is so inspiring. People don’t realise how long she’s been doing this. She’s so hard working, positive and driven and success like hers doesn’t come overnight s I really respect everything she’s done. I love Candice [Huffine] too. The editorials she does are insane. They’re the type of shoots straight girls could only dream off too. She’s just an amazing model. What I’m trying to do is talk to a younger girl. Those big plus size models are slightly older. I feel like we need to get younger, cool girls on to the scene. I go out, I party at the same places at Gigi and all of those girls. I can wear what they wear. I don’t care that I’ve got more thigh than they do. It’s all about changing the cultural idea that you have to bee skinny to be cool.
SKINCARE
I’m big on cleansing. I cleanse every morning and each night and would never go to bed with make-up on. Even if I get home at 4 or 5am, I always take my make-up off. Product-wise, I’m obsessed with Bioderma. I think every make-up artist in the world uses it because it’s just that good. I use it to take off my make-up with cotton wool and then I’ll go for an oil cleanser in winter when my skin is a bit dry, or I’ll opt for a pore cleanser like the one from La Roche-Posay in summer – it’s chemical free and doesn’t sting your skin. At the moment I’m using a hyaluronic acid serum before bed and on top of that, I use an organic rosehip oil. I’m obsessed with the smell. Otherwise, in the morning I put on Kiehl’s colour correcting serum. It helps with blemishes but is also great for me because I suffer redness and rosacea and when I’m working a lot, I get red blotches too.
I’ve always been consistent with my skincare routine. My mum always told me to moisturise my neck and hands too. My daily moisturiser is from an incredible French brand called Embryolisse and if I’m looking for something with a high SPF, I wear a daily moisturiser from from Space NK. It’s SPF50, which is great for me because I’m fair and freckly and also because the sun in New York is so hot.
To give my skin a bit of love, I have an incredible facialist in New York and I’m a big fan of masks too. I love Peter Thomas Roche masks from Sephora. He does a black Irish mud mask, which is really great. I also love acid peel masks, which sound really scary but are actually really good. My favourite is from Dr Sebagh – it basically burns off the top layer of skin to help with regeneration. I really should apply it once a week because it’s honestly that good but I always forget to. You can put it on for just three minutes and instantly see results.
MAKE-UP
I’ve fallen in love with the Giorgio Armani CC cream. The Giorgio Armani foundation is brilliant too – so may make-up artists recommended it to me – but day to day I use the CC cream, just because when I’m not working, the last thing I want is to have something heavy on my skin. The CC cream is so light and easy. I love the Tom Ford highlighter and contour because I’m not a fan of powder. I only take powder with me in my bag in case I get shiny on a night out or in castings.
I usually just brush my eyebrows but mascara is really important. I normally use the Lancôme Grandiose mascara. I love lip liner. I found the perfect one from Make Up For Ever at Sephora. They’re extra long pencils. I use number 23 because a make-up artist used it on me once and said that it’s great because it has blue tones, which makes it look really natural on your lip. My look for evening is quite similar, I just put on some eyeliner. I swear by the Scandaleyes Waterproof Eyeliner from Rimmel. You can’t go wrong.
HAIR
I usually Kerastase but I have just been gifted some hair products from an Australian brand called Mr Smith. It’s PETA certified, is parabens and nasties free so I’m really excited to try it because I love natural products. My hair is naturally blonde but has highlights so I go and get them done, every four to give weeks just because I need to keep them fresh in photos. Otherwise, I would probably get it done every two months because I don’t mind the roots look but clients don’t like it.
I’m obsessed with pure coconut oil. I got into it thanks to an Australian friend of mine. She uses it as her SPF, body lotion and for oil pulling too. I tend to use it for my body and always for my hair. I love sleeping in it. When you wash it out, your hair feels amazing.
Photography by David Nyanzi exclusively for The Lifestyle Edit with art direction from Naomi Mdudu. None of these images have been retouched.