Fashion seasons are difficult. I say that, as someone who has a knowledge of just how many collections a designer can be expected to churn out (hint: it’s not just Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter), but also as someone who relies quite heavily on stores that drop new collections on a weekly basis. I say this also as someone who lives in a city where the climate is less than predictable; often what is available in store, is not actually transferable to what is sartorially viable on a practical level. But, we all know about this debate: it isn’t new. Most of us don’t go and buy our winter cashmere in June, albeit, it is available to us should we want to.
I bring this up because the season – the one involving the weather, not the new Gucci loafers – certainly has turned. Despite the fact that we have been able to see the collections online since last February, it is only now that we are thinking about wearing them – and there is a world of choice. What’s changed this season is the move away from the basics. At every turn down the catwalk, colour, embellishment and detail reigned supreme, signalling a call to cast aside the clean lines and neutral palette that most of us have favoured until now. It’s an opportunity to lay the foundations, too, as the collections we’ve just seen for next spring hold equally strong values in terms of peacocking. Now, more than ever, is the time for a new wardrobe.
So who do you turn to to help navigate this change? Well, the buyers of course. They are the ones deciding just what is available to get your hands on – and this is a guide to their top picks for the season. Don’t shop without it.
Vikki Kavanagh, Head of Buying at Very Exclusive
“Autumn/Winter 2015 is a super strong season. We had a real job on our hands to edit down the number of key trends and looks we wanted to highlight to our audience – which is always a good sign.”
“In terms of trends my personal favourites were 70s, Punk and New Romantic, and there were a couple of brands who hit the nail on the head. Denim brand MiH nailed the 70s trend with their beautiful printed silk ‘Walt’ culottes, and their suede patchwork mini. 2nd Day’s patent pencil skirt, which gives the perfect pop of shiny mustard was another favourite and See By Chloe offered the ultimate denim dress and fringed boots, which I would wear with Won Hundred’s ‘Marion’ faux fur coat and a great burgundy hat from Reiss.”
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“I loved the punk trend for its vibrancy – the black, red, tartan colour palette is a natural fit for this time of year. Versus owned this look – my favourite pieces are the tartan kilt and their red biker – but the penultimate Marc by Marc collection had some of the best pieces yet. I loved the tartan insert dress and the velvet biker. Teamed with Alexander Wang’s studded clutch bag, it’s the perfect nod to a rebellious streak. Katie Rowland’s safety pin earrings and a pair of Kenzo’s zip detail boots in black styled with (this seasons key colour) burgundy suede bring everything together.”
“Finally, New Romantic is a perfect look for Christmas parties, given the lace, the sheer panelling and the frills. LK Bennett had a beautiful shoe with lace insert, but Sonia by Sonia Rykiel has the ultimate new romantics blouse. These will look best worn with a skinny leather trouser, or pencil skirt like this one from Karen Millen, and heels. Keepsake’s lace culottes are perfect for an evening look too, or can be dressed down with a slogan tee and flatforms. This look works great with a snake print or textured bag (I love those from See By Chloe and Karl Largerfeld) and Camilla Elphick’s silver disco boots (as worn by half of the VE office at the moment) are great with black lace and ruffles. Of course, flicked eye liner and a killer red lip are the ultimate accessory.”
Eve Thomas, Fashion Director at The Outnet
“The onset of autumn inevitably heralds that back-to-school feeling. The excitement of a sparkling pencil case and crisp notebook is now replaced by a far more expensive longing. Top of the list? A new coat. Nothing makes you feel more put together than a sharply tailored wool coat and it can’t be beaten in terms of cost per wear.”
“This season I have been hunting high and low for the perfect pea coat; a feat more difficult than one would imagine when trying to stay within a reasonable budget. Tom Ford’s leather-trimmed stretch-wool version is pretty close to perfect, but at almost £2,000 it is out of reach for most mere mortals. Sandro comes to the rescue with their gorgeous wool offering. Boasting a classic silhouette in heavyweight wool, it is given a modern twist with a chic ecru collar. The catch? It’s from their men’s collection. But don’t let that put you off. Some of my favorite pieces have been raided from my husband’s wardrobe and a classic pea coat is a great example of a unisex classic.”
“Menswear collections often offer up rich pickings. This season I am also lusting after the military shirt from Balmain collaboration with H&M. Whether or not I will be successful in getting one at this stage is another matter given the scrum. I’m not usually a Balmain girl by any means, but Olivier Rousteing’s tailoring is second to none and his take on the military trend for the menswear collaboration is spot on. The olive green officer’s coat is also worth checking out.”
“I’m a big fan of young Irish designer Simone Rocha. Her designs tread a fine balance between being both edgy and elegant. I loved her AW14 Elizabethan-inspired collection and have been hankering after her ruffle-trimmed neoprene pants ever since. I couldn’t believe my luck when we got them on THE OUTNET.COM but unfortunately they sold out in the blink of an eye. This ruffle-trim neoprene skirt will happily fill the void. I plan on wearing it with a plaid shirt and leopard flats.”
“No winter wish list would be complete without a pair of boots. This season I plan on updating my beloved Belstaff biker boots with a tougher style. The bold buckle detailing on the Proenza Schouler boots gives them a modern edge. They will work equally well with a knit dress and opaque tights as they will with skinny jeans and a peasant blouse. This is another key purchase that is sure to become the backbone of your winter wardrobe and won’t be beaten on cost per wear.”
I love And Daughter’s contemporary take on classic knitwear, and their signature stripe sleeve Aran knit is another dream purchase for fall. A girl can never have too many Breton tops in my opinion, and it doesn’t get more chic than this hybrid style. If you need further convincing, all of their knits are hand-finished in the UK, so you can always tell yourself that you are simply investing in order to support local handicraft.
Suzanne Pendlebury, Buying Manager at MATCHESFASHION.COM
“This AW15 I’m really excited about Marques’Almedia, AWAKE, Shrimps, No.21 and Bliss & Mischief, and there are a few pieces I’m in love with for the new season.”
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“Firstly, it’s our exclusive Shrimps coat. The jaguar-print, faux-fur Papa Puss style epitomises Shrimps’s fun take on outerwear. It’s ideal for wearing during autumn, and comes with two detachable faux-fur collars in blue and pink. Secondly, Bliss and Mischief’s indigo Song of the West jeans are a reclaimed vintage pair updated with artisanal embroidery. I’m enhancing the Americana vibe with one of the label’s elevated army jackets as well. Bella Freud’s black double-breasted tux jacket has all the makings of a new-season trophy piece, whilst Marques’Almeida’s frayed denim is a key part of their design DNA, as seen with their flared-leg cropped jeans. Finally, Joshua Sanders’s signature platform navy velvet trainers.”
“In terms of trends, I’m embracing crop flares, velvet accessories and over the knee boots. It is all about the over-the-knee boot this season – every designer had their take on the trend from sexy and skin tight at Edun to relaxed, slouchy and suede at Isabel Marant to lower block heels at Nicholas Kirkwood and Gianvito Rossi. Channel the 70’s boho vibe seen across the runway and wear with a midi skirt Stevie Nicks style or opt for a looser tunic dress.”
Rebecca Tinker, Junior Buyer International Collections at Harvey Nichols
“The brand our department is most excited about for AW15 is ADEAM. We’ve been following ADEAM since our NYC SS15 trip. The timing was right for AW15, with the collection becoming tightly edited and overall elevated in aesthetic.”
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“Easy-to-wear pieces with a clear hyper-luxe message are inspired by the designer’s hometowns of Tokyo and New York, with both art and wearability in mind. The sculpted grey bomber jacket, strapless geometric dress and reversible curly sheepskin waistcoat are all signatures of Hanako’s style with the play on fabrications being paramount to the brand.”
Tina Lamb, Accessories and Shoes Buying Manager at Harvey Nichols
“In the accessories department, Eddie Borgo is big news. Eddie is famous for his gorgeous jewellery and we’re excited that he’s launched his first handbag collection.”
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“He has modernised the construction of traditional attaché cases with silhouettes from the 50’s and 60’s. His understanding of metal craftsmanship has led him to design sleek, modern bags with a nod to the iconic sports cars of the era. These bags are absolutely beautiful and will be treasured by the customers that invest in them.”
Kate Johanson, Market Editor at Shopbop
“At the top of my shopping list for AW15 is undoubtedly a saddle bag. I’m obsessed with finding the the perfect one — I think it’s an awesome nod to the 70s trend without looking too kitchy. Next is a statement coat. In the colder months getting dressed can be such a drag so I’m all about having fun and breaking away from drab black puffers. I’m also big on DIY Pieces. I can’t stop adding patches and puffs to my bags for a little personal spin.”
“I’m a sucker for anything sweet and feminine, so I’ve fully embraced the influx of tie neck blouses this season too. I love that they feel chicer than a classic button-down, but equally as versatile. For a more sophisticated look, I’ll wear it with an A-line mini or dress it down with jeans and flats. Oversized denim is also a power player, be they retro Wide leg, cropped length or let-out hem. These Rachel Comey jeans are everything right now.”
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“Much to my pleasure, the 90’s are back and a slip dress is the hero piece to mastering its resurgence. We’ve seen so many iterations of it for Fall but I’m choosing to keep it simple. It’s the perfect layering piece – worn with a tee underneath, chunky sweater and boots for a cozier look or paired with heels for a night out. And finally, a trusty flat is crucial for the fall and what could be more convenient than a slip on mule. They’re both parts practical and chic.”
“There are plenty of designers I’m excited about for this season, but on my shortlist are Designers Remix, Self Portrait, See by Chloe, Frame, Ulla Johnson, Le Petit Jouers, Marissa Webb and 10 Crosby. In terms of key trends, The seventies are practically inescapable this season. Whether your style screams last days of disco or a more laid-back boho vibe, there’s something for everyone. For me, it’s about piling on the prints, maximizing silhouettes (think: billowy dresses and ultra-wide flares) and embracing textures like shearling and suedes.”
“Victoriana was a big one too: Intricate lace, voluminous sleeves and high necklines are not typically what comes to mind when asked about modernity. In monochromatic palettes, designers managed to send these old-fashioned details down the runway that felt both romantic and fresh. While this trend walks a fine line between wearable and costume-y, it is undeniably beautiful and one I have fully embraced. And finally, electric mod is one trend that’s made a real impact this season. In a world where the biggest trend is individualism, it’s all about offbeat, quirky details that make you stand out from the pack. Mixing unexpected combinations of colors and prints (while sticking to familiar and flattering 60s silhouettes), feels like the perfect way to have fun with fashion’s unpredictability.”