2016-04-28

Guide to the Restaurants and Bars of Wan Chai

Home to Hong Kong’s most famous nightlife, Wan Chai also boasts some of its best culinary finds. Whether you are in the mood for a casual drink after work, a sit down lunch or a delicious dinner, Wan Chai offers something for every occasion. We’ve narrowed down a list of some of our favourite restaurants and bars for you to check out! This is by no means an exhaustive list, merely a selection of the best of the bunch.

New to the neighbourhood is The Deligator on Johnston Road. The people behind Djibouti and Ted’s Lookout (more on them later) have delivered another hangout soon to be mentioned in conversation at the office on Monday. This time Cuban-inspired drinks come together with hefty, hot sandwiches at this cosy deli by day and bar by night – some of those nights feature live Cuban music for an added, authentic touch.

Johnston Road is also home to the first Le Pain Quotidien outlet in Asia, housed in The Avenue. People have been very excited about the Belgian chain’s arrival in Hong Kong (check out Instagram) and we don’t blame them. They’re big on bread, and judging by their name, you know it’s going to be good. They’re well known for tartines (Belgian open-faced sandwiches) that are fresh and filling and covered in wonderful ingredients like black olive tapenade, buffalo mozzarella and aged prosciutto, but their extensive menu also contains hot dishes, salads and an entire section devoted to eggs. Oh and then there’s the bakery, boasting to-die-for continental pastries – you have to try the Belgian speculoos biscuit if you’ve never had one.

Of course, a wander around the watering holes of Wan Chai would not be complete without a visit to Johnston Road stalwart The Pawn. Whether you just want a drink in a comfy leather chair, or are looking for a belt-busting meal, then the Pawn has it all.

Just next door is the Michelin star-winning Bo Innovation, home to celeb chef Alvin Leung and his extreme Chinese cuisine. The food is exquisite, unusual and visually stunning. It’s a must try particularly for a special occasion.

A street known for several of Hong Kong’s historical landmarks, Stone Nullah Lane is also home to some of our favourite local hot spots.

The great Stone Nullah Tavern, with its vintage country farm inspired decor and wooden paneling, brings re-imagined American classics using only the freshest local ingredients. This means that chef Vinny Lauria gets to tweak and change the menu depending on which produce is available seasonally.

Stone Nullah Tavern sells itself at first glance with the romantic style of the opening French doors and the warm lighting during an evening visit. Completely different to its sister restaurants, Posto Pubblico and Linguini Fini, the American-style food on offer is well seasoned and – contrary to popular belief – does not come in the epic portions associated with a typical American meal. Stone Nullah Tavern also has possibly one of the best happy hour deals in Hong Kong, from 5:00pm – 7:00pm daily. Standard drinks including wine, beer, and spirits are priced at an unbelievable HK$1 from 5pm, doubling each 20 minutes thereafter until 7:00pm.

No longer a newcomer to the Wan Chai bar scene, Tai Lung Fung is still a local stand out. A throwback to Hong Kong’s cultural heritage, it mixes a laid-back local atmosphere and an interior reminiscent of Hong Kong in the 60s with good food and a cocktail menu to boot. Tai Lung Fung manages to stick to theme perfectly, with old newspapers for menus and deliberately aged chairs placed outside for those who would prefer the fresh air. Food comes in the form of classic western food with a Tai Lung Fung twist. You can order from a set menu (for lunch or dinner) or order a la carte. Expect to pay only $45 for cocktails during happy hour.

With a menu that is built around Chinese-style noodles, Maureen’s is one of the few places that has managed to perfect the noodle to broth ratio. Situated just beside Tai Lung Fung on Hing Wan Street, Maureen’s acts as a place of quiet refuge during the day. With seasoned chef and owner Maureen Loh at the helm, the carefully crafted menu is much like the restaurant itself – sophisticated with an adventurous twist. Expect to find custom-made noodles that are a mix of a thinner style Guangzhou and the heavy-yet-popular Sichuan dan dan noodle. The unique touch, along with the quality and range of food offer, puts Maureen’s well above any ordinary noodle bar and will leave you wanting to come back again and again.

Ship Street has been made famous by the tapas restaurant 22 Ships, which features some of Hong Kong’s most innovative and delicious tapas. From the same stable of restaurants (that also includes 208 Duecento Otto and Duddell’s), is Ham and Sherry.  With celebrity chef Jason Atherton at the helm, Ham and Sherry, as its name suggests, serves 50 delicious sherries, classic tapas with a twist and aged hams from around Spain.

Through Wan Chai’s evolution from The World of Suzie Wong era has come the delightfully charming Star Street Precinct, an area famed for its eclectic restaurants and burgeoning bar life. A notable mention here is St.Francis.St, an innovative lifestyle gallery which showcases the talents of new artists and musicians and is also home to the baking prowess of local baker Aimex Kwong. Her passion for the simplicity within baking has created the perfect accompaniment for a cup of their exclusive coffee, taking roasts from UK brands Climpson & Sons and Nude Espresso. Fresh talent and fresher pastries will see you returning for more.

Also on the Star Street Precinct, you will find Oolaa and Wagyu Cafe. Both from the same team behind Oolaa on Bridges Street in Central, the restaurants offer very well-priced weekday set lunches, or why not just pop in for a coffee and cake pick-me-up? In a similar vein, Chez Patrick Cafe and Classified consistently hit the spot for those looking for a spot to grab a bite to eat breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Away from Wagyu Cafe, Slim’s is the perfect place to have a relaxing evening with a selection of microbrews and ales. Tucked neatly into a narrow building beside the popular salon, NailMe, the New York diner-style setting creates an intimate atmosphere and allows you to watch as the chef prepares your food. It boasts some of Wan Chai’s best pub grub and the widest selection of beers in Hong Kong.

Beef and Liberty boasts burgers created with grass-fed, hormone-free beef from Tasmania. In addition to the beautiful burgers, they offer craft beers and house cocktails, which make this place the ultimate burger joint.

With the popularity of the Star Street Precinct on the rise, it is no surprise that more and more restaurants are found hidden away in the most discreet places, particularly in the lesser known Moon Street.

The first of these tucked away treats is the Italian wine bar, Ciacoe. It features an impressive list of rare wines and free appetizers during happy hour and is a great destination for an after work drink or for a lazy Sunday afternoon relaxing with friends.

On a corner of Moon Street sits Ted’s Lookout, with its old cinema seats in front inviting you to have a sit down with what they do best – tacos and cocktails. Averaging $100 a pop, they have a long list of fruity and strong concoctions to go with their fish, grilled tiger prawn, Mexican chorizo and, our favourite, beef carnitas tacos. Inside, the industrial decor of concrete and metal provides a laid-back ambience for nibbling on mini platters of macaroni and cheese, buffalo wings and typical American-style bar eats. Things can get dangerous when it comes to their burgers, though, as building one is placed in your capable hands by choosing from a long list of ingredients – fried egg, avocado, pineapple, cajun onion, a variety of cheeses, truffle mayo and more. We didn’t bring a ruler with us, but we reckon that sucker was higher than most stiletto heels you see in LKF on a Friday night.

For those whose hearts yearn for Spanish tapas and a taste of Madrid, Plaza Mayor serves up bite-sized savouries and full bodied vintages. A twist on an open-style kitchen, it is encased in glass, leaving customers watching the flare of the chefs preparing delicious paella. The interior provides an authentic Spanish experience, with black and white tiled flooring and an open courtyard in the back. Pick up some cheeses or Iberico ham to take away or any one of the good selection of wines.

We know there’s going to be some opposition to this opinion, as those who like their patties LIKE their patties, but The Butchers Club Burger serves probably the best burger in Hong Kong. We knew this within the first few bites. You will have to clamour for a seat during busy times at the small eatery on Landale Street, but it’s worth it: the meat patties are made fresh throughout the day, minced to order right there in front of you, which is evident when you taste how fresh and juicy the burger is. Even the chips alone stand out, fried to a perfect crisp in duck fat. Cans of Dr Pepper, A&W root beer and Orange Crush to wash it all down are an added treat, or skip the fizz and go for a naughty shot of bourbon.

On the same street you’ll find Djibouti, a much-buzzed about bar when it first opened in late 2014. It’s still hopping, judging by the elbows we had to knock into to make our way to the bar for one of their vibrant cocktails. The drinks really are some of the best we’ve sampled – maybe it’s the eclectic glasses they’re served in, but it’s probably down to the fact they use Moroccan teas infused with premium booze and homemade syrups. Their “Deer Hunter” is like a dessert in a glass (vodka, Jägermeister, Aztec chocolate bitters, vanilla essence, sweet orgeat syrup) but still leaves you with a happy buzz. They also specialise in cocktails made with fresh fruit and veg, somehow making beetroot juice, jalapeño and cayenne pepper syrup, pomegranate vinegar and rhubarb bitters taste good (maybe it’s the tequila thrown in that does the trick). Djibouti also does lovely flatbreads, kebabs and dips with a Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flair, perfect for accompanying a round of drinks when you don’t want to go for an all-out meal.

Amoy Street is a hidden gem lined with several great takeaway places, restaurants and bars. We were led there when we heard some of the best French-style rotisserie chicken this side of France is made at La Rotisserie. It is superb – succulent, moist and dripping with juices that trickle down to potatoes roasting in a pan below, making for some of the best roasted spuds we’ve ever tasted.  They also have other side dishes that change on a daily basis and French wine, mais oui, bien sûr, to go with your chicken which comes in quarter, half and whole portions. It’s a good takeaway option (sadly there is no seating) for nights when you don’t feel like cooking for yourself, or an entire family.

Neighbours Tallore serves up artisan broths that are a far cry from your average tomato soup. Bringing a taste of Belgium to Hong Kong (tallore means “soup bowl” in Flemish), their rotating menu of soups of the day range from the familiar clam chowder to the more exotic “African chicken and peanut stew”. The soups come in three sizes and will fill you up with added extras to go on top like croutons, grated cheese and meatballs. Strictly a takeaway place, but a great lunchtime option for those who work in the area.

New to the block is The Roundhouse Chicken and Beer, capitalising on the Korean fried chicken and beer craze that is still going strong in Hong Kong. But the chicken here is fried US southern-style, marinated in sweet tea and bathed in buttermilk before getting its crispy coating after a good deep-fry.  Corn on the cob and collard greens on the side add to the southern feel, and they have a decent selection of craft beer to help soak up the calories. With the loud music and laid-back vibe inside, this is definitely one for those nights when you want to kick back and forget the diet.

On the completely opposite end of the spectrum is the chic Mizunara: The Library. It’s not your typical Lockhart Road bar, that’s for sure, and they take their drinking seriously. From the moment you walk in you get the sense that you need a private membership to belong; you don’t, but they do require a $400 minimum spend per person and there is a smart dress code in place. Bartender/owner Masahiko Endo sets the classy mood with his impeccable white jacket and bow tie, serving up serious cocktails from a vast range of spirits on hand. Whisky aficionados can indulge in the 150 Japanese varieties from Endo’s homeland.

Pirata on Hennessy Road caters to those wanting good, old-fashioned Italian cuisine. Nothing too fancy here, but all the pasta is made fresh and the dishes hit the spot. Chef Stefano Rossi serves up dishes he learned in his native Italy, including notable plates like “agnolatti ‘Grandma Paolina’ with beef ragu” and the “purple potato gnocchi”. Brunch at $298 per person (add $180 for free flow) offers an array of his other culinary talents, like “M.M.M. (My Mamma’s Meatballs)”, filling enough to be a dish on their own.

Last but not least, Queen’s Road East has always been a popular strip for foodies, housing bakeries, coffee shops and eateries for all palates. Japanese favourite Jan Jan Kushikatsu, with 12 locations across Tokyo and Osaka, recently popped up in Hong Kong. Get your fix of meat, vegetable and fish skewers and other light bites in a casual setting. The deep-fried goodness pairs nicely with their Japanese beer selection, or sake if you fancy.

Those with a hankering for seafood will be delighted to dine at Fishsteria Seafood Place, which goes beyond the standard fish and chips (although you can still get that there). If guzzling down oysters and caviar while listening to live jazz sounds like a nice evening out, then do pop by. If you’ve never tried sea urchin, now’s your chance, presented on a bed of linguine.

There’ll surely be dozens more to add to this list in the coming months, as is the case with a buzzing and changing city as Hong Kong, so we’ll keep you posted. And when you’ve had a chance to put down the fork and knife, let us know of any we should add to the list.

None of the content in this article was sponsored.

Nancy Matos is a lifestyle and culture writer from Vancouver, Canada currently based in Hong Kong and London.

Wan Chai image by Bevis Chin on Flickr

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