Buying for a wine lover this Christmas? Steer clear of THE OBVIOUS BOTTLES and go off-piste instead, writes MARY DOWEY
Hunting out a present for a dedicated wine lover? My advice is to go off-piste. Bordeaux, port, champagne and the other mainstream classics that are shunted to the front of drinks displays every Christmas may seem a little dull to the recipient of your largesse. He or she probably has favourites that you don’t know about or else feels lukewarm about over-familiar styles. So if you’re hell-bent on a bottle it should be irresistibly intriguing.
As for wine paraphernalia, for all but novice drinkers this may be over-trodden territory too. Unless specific hints are dropped, it’s safe to assume that most wine buffs have more corkscrews, foil cutters, drip-stops, decanters and posh glasses in all sizes than even the most committed imbiber could need.
Avoid the obvious, in other words. Here are a few ideas for goodies that most wine fans should whip out of their wrappings with glee:
1. FAB ENGLISH FIZZ
Partly thanks to global warming, England now produces sparkling wines to rival champagne for finesse. The best are made from the traditional champagne grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, grown on the same band of chalk that runs through the Champagne region and across the South Downs. One of the most scintillating is Wiston Estate Blanc de Blancs NV, a wonderfully poised and sensuous sparkler made in West Sussex, the heartland of English wine, by Corkman Dermot Sugrue. From www.lecaveau.ie; Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Green Man, Dublin 6; Bradleys, Cork; World Wide, Waterford, €57-€60.
2. NEW BOTTLES – FOR MONTHS
For anybody who wants to expand their wine horizons, the Wine Explorers Club organised by mail order specialists Wines Direct is a brilliant idea. For a monthly subscription of €69, €89 or €109 (depending on how fancy you’d like the wines to be), members receive six different bottles – white, red or mixed, according to preference – together with tasting notes and vineyard details. Typically the wines will come from small, worthwhile estates, because Wines Direct makes a genuine effort to ferret out exciting family producers; and they will include the latest additions to the portfolio. Membership conditions are flexible, so if a year’s gift subscription seems over-lavish you can sign up for just a few months. Full details on www.winesdirect.ie.
3. EVENINGS AT ELY
Some of the most tempting wine appreciation courses on offer are run by Ely Bar & Brasserie in their wine vaults at the CHQ Building in the IFSC. Taught by award-winning sommelier Ian Brosnan, sessions are held once a week for four weeks (next start dates are January 17 and February 28) and include supper as well as two hours of tasting for €220. Ely also hosts an array of individual tastings and masterclasses which can be given as a gift. Imminent themes include Bordeaux Left Bank (January 12, €60), Pinot Noir (January 20, €55), New World Icons (February 3, €60) and Champagne & Sparkling Wines (February 9, €50). Talk about new year cheer! Details at www.elywinebar.ie.
4. INTOXICATING HUMOUR
We live in such po-faced, PC times that people over the age of 30 hardly dare admit that the appeal of wines, beers and spirits is linked more than tentatively to inebriation. This is one reason why Highballs For Breakfast – The very best of PG Wodehouse on the joys of a good stiff drink is such a welcome little book: an unabashed admission that pleasure may (occasionally) be had from getting squiffy, pickled, pie-eyed or polluted. The other reason, of course, is Wodehouse’s fluent wit. I’d forgotten just how entertaining he can be until Highballs hit my desk. Any enthusiastic drinker will enjoy dipping into it for encouragement – or solace. (Hutchinson, €14.60)
5. GENEROUS TASTING GLASSES
Because their shape is specially designed to enhance aromas and flavours, wine tasting glasses should be in the kitchen of every wine fan. The trouble is that the standard, tulip-shaped ISO jobs look basic and decidedly mean. I’ve ditched my own recently in favour of Authentis tasting glasses by Spiegelau, a company owned by Austrian wine glass wizards Riedel. They’re robust enough for everyday use (and the dishwasher) but look elegant enough for a dinner party. From www.riedel.co.uk.
6. WINE ESTATE OLIVE OIL
Olive oil from a smart wine estate may please a picky wine buff far more than a bottle of vino – particularly if he or she is an enthusiastic cook. Like exceptional perfumes, luxury oils are relatively expensive, so they’re not the kind of thing that people necessarily buy for themselves. And like the best perfumes, they tend to come in handsome looking bottles – another factor that pushes them high up the gift ratings. Terroirs of Donnybrook, an Aladdin’s cave of gorgeous wine-related gifts, has top-ranking Tuscan estate oils like Isole e Olena (500ml, €19.50), Coltibuono (500ml, €19.50), Capezzana (750ml, €35) as well as super-swish Ornellaia (500ml, €29.50) and Frescobaldi Laudemio (250ml, €24.50, 500ml €34.50). See www.terroirs.ie
7. DREAM WINE & CHEESE DUO
Port and Stilton? No thanks. Heavy as lead at the end of a meal, these two overhyped old partners don’t even taste all that great together, especially given the quality of some of the Stilton shoved on to the market for Christmas. Instead, pick up half a round of our own Cashel Blue and offer it in a thermal bag along with a well chilled half bottle of Hermits Hill Botrytis Semillon, Riverina 2011. Made by De Bortoli, deft producers of the legendary Australian sweet wine Noble One, this light-footed beauty with orange and pineapple notes turns Ireland’s favourite blue into a stellar treat. From Marks & Spencer, 375ml, €12.80.
8. A JURA JEWEL
Wedged between Burgundy and Switzerland, Jura in eastern France is attracting attention these days because its highly traditional wines are so individualistic in style. And so utterly fantastic, I can tell you, having made my first visit there this summer. More details of this revelatory trip soon but in the meantime I bet adventurous drinkers would love to try Domaine Rolet Naturé du Jura 2013. Made from Savagnin, Jura’s white speciality grape, it’s fruity but also nutty with a refreshing, almost salty finish. Magnificent with roast chicken or that other Jura speciality, Comté cheese. From Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Drink Store, Dublin 7; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; La Touche, Greystones, Co Wicklow, about €25.
9. SOPHISTICATED STORAGE
With bright lights and temperature fluctuations, the kitchen is the worst possible place to store wine. Damage can be done even in a matter of weeks unless a temperature-controlled wine cooler is there to save the day. A godsend in homes with limited space, the Haier WS25GA is a handsome 25-bottle unit with a Class A energy rating, anti-vibration system and anti-UV glass door. Wines will be kept in peak condition, ready to serve at the ideal temperature. What a gift! From www.kal.ie, €359. You can see it in the flesh at KAL, in Citywest, Dublin 24.
Mary Dowey @MaryDowey
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