2016-09-19

Brilliant lips, spiky lashes and glowing skin: the AW16 BEAUTY REPORT from backstage at LONDON FASHION WEEK



Roksanda Ilincic

1. THE RICH DARK LIP

It’s a big glamorous lips season, no question. From Roksanda to Mary Katrantzou, the beauty look was all about the lip colour. Burgundy and berry rule – think the glossiest maraschino cherry, or else a strong matte. Stock up on Mac Cherry Lip Pencil (used at Roksanda and Peter Jensen) and the sensational, super-longlasting Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolours. Shapes are sharper: a 1940s-style focus on the Cupid’s bow was prevalent. Keep the rest of your make-up minimal: all you need is glowing skin and spiky lashes.

2. BACKSTAGE MUST-BUY

MAC’s Studio QuikTrik Stick might sound like something out of Dr Seuss, but it’s seriously sophisticated: this double-ended multi-tasker was tried and tested at every show, with artists scrambling to get hold of them. “I use it to contour and highlight, for lips, eyes and sculpting the skin,” enthused Val Garland backstage at Vivienne Westwood. At Paul Smith, it made light bounce off models’ skin: “It lifts the skin and makes it look glossy and fresh,” says MAC Senior Artist Rachel O’Donnell. “It glides on for a flawless finish.”



Victoria Beckham

3. LIGHT UP YOUR SKIN

“It’s all about the gleam,” says MAC senior artist Lesley Keane. She recommends Mineralize foundation buffed into skin for shine. And MAC’s cult classic Strobe Cream is arriving in new shades in November, including peach. “I’m nearly out of Strobe liquid in silver,” Keane said backstage at Peter Pilotto. “It adds a cool iridescence to skin.” Almost every artist we met was using MAC Studio Waterweight Foundation. “It’s perfect for a clean, minimal, matte look,” said Irish make-up artist Niamh Quinn at Danielle Romeril. “MAC Next to Nothing Defining Powder removes shine, and I’m also using Cream Colour Base in Luna on highlighted areas: I never do make-up without it.”

4. SILVER LADY

Metallic is a big thing this season, whether it’s gold nails or silver eyeshadow (we loved the crackled effect at Holly Fulton). The reflective gold- and silver-dipped nails at Vivienne Westwood inspire us to go coolly metallic this season.



Holly Fulton

5. LAYERS OF LINER

Eyeliner’s getting interesting again: try AW16’s sharper looks, with darkly glittering shades ringing the entire eye, coming to a sharp point at either end. Try the artist’s trick of applying onto a closed eye to get the colour close to the lashline for an edgy finish.

6. GLOSS & GLASS

The “Perspex Effect” is everywhere, creating a clean and fresh high-shine look against dark winter clothes. Use the shiniest MAC Lipglass on eyelids to add dimension, as at shows like Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou, and on lips, preferably over a matte cherry lipstick. Several layers of clear top coat on nails completes the look.

7. COOL BEAUTY

The “wind-chilled, weathered” look at Teatum Jones was pretty and natural-looking, with soft plum tones consistent on lips and cheeks. At Mary Katrantzou, make-up artist Lynsey Alexander talked about a look that was “a bit cold” and used burgundy on lips and nails. Val Garland calls this “double-dipping”: a rich plum mascara echoes  soft burgundy lips (a mix of three MAC lipsticks: Rebel, Film Noir and Hangout).

Richard Malone

8. SPIKE IT UP

Focus on lashes, the spikier the better. From burgundy at Berardi to azure at Richard Malone, eyelashes were layered with texture and colour. For Malone, MAC experts blended HI-DEF CYAN Pencil with Mixing Medium for this startling sky-blue effect.

Image by Jason Lloyd Evans

Sarah Halliwell

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