April 9, 2015
By Contributor
Photos Courtesy of Portugal Fashion
Porto, Portugal – Portugal Fashion organized the 36th edition of its catwalk shows under the banner of “REFLECTOR”. It took place between March 25 and 28 and simultaneously marked Portugal Fashion’s 20th year anniversary. And after an intense international campaign in Madrid, London and Paris, the ANJE project – National Association of Young Entrepreneurs – was once again successful in Portugal with interactive stopovers in Lisbon and Porto and different catwalks and scenarios, based on big international fashion weeks.
The purpose of this 36th edition of PORTUGAL FASHION, “REFLECTOR”, was to reflect over the past 20 years through the creativity of Portuguese designers and reveal creativity, shapes, textures and colours. This edition of Portugal Fashion, divided into eight different catwalks, six different buildings and four days, was the scenario for introducing a variety of trends for the following winter, launching different fashion creations and involving all those with an important role in the world of fashion.
STORYTAILORS
Portugal Fashion opened in Lisbon on 25th March. STORYTAILORS opened the programme in the sumptuous and impressive “PALACIO FOZ” with a collection inspired on folk tales with exaggerated and mannerist styles. The programme started with voluminous items in dark shades with mysterious hoods, finishing off with an explosion of reds, fuchsias and yellows, in a mixture of wool, cotton, tulle, neoprene and fibre.
Over the four days of the event, collections by six young designers (Carla Pontes, Mafalda Fonseca, João Melo Costa, Pedro Neto, Eduardo Amorim and Teresa Abrunhosa) and four brands by new designers (HIBU, KLAR, Align With Kay and Atelier Ctrl) were unveiled.
The former “SÃO LÁZARO CARPENTRY” was the setting for the creations of young “Bloom” designers (HIBU and CARLA PONTES) and for the designer duo, ALVES and GONÇALVES, with feminine traits that contrasted large volumes with tight silhouettes, in a shady, romantic and introspective environment, where black, grey, indigo and blood red predominated amongst tweeds and houndstooth.
On 26th March, Portugal Fashion was transferred to its major scenario, Porto. The gym at “RODRIGUES DE FREITAS SCHOOL” was the unusual setting for the 25th anniversary of LUÍS BUCHINHO‘s fashion collection, which he named “COMIC” in memory of his début in the world of graphic design and illustration and his passion for comic books, showing black and white blocks, geometric structures and multiple stripes. His clothing shows a combination of structured lines with shades of blue, red and caramel on different wools, mohair, leather, silk, cotton and jacquards.
The impressive “PALÁCIO DOS CTT” in Porto was the ideal environment for 7 new fashion shows: DANIELA BARROS launched her women’s collection “NKA_002″, with unstructured and oversized lines, and masculine elements in wool, silk, fish leather and tech fabrics in neutral colours punctuated with black and sandy shades and illuminated with white.
HUGO COSTA showed his “NOMAD COAT” collection for men and women, inspired by garments worn by Tibetan nomads. Overcoats and garments with exaggerated geometric structures and volumes, in neutral colours like beige, black and grey, combining matte fabrics with metal effects. “Re-Evolution” was the title of KATTY XIOMARA‘s women’s collection, with emphasis on femininity based on the masculinity of military uniforms and contrasting natural, rural and urban environments. Pure, clean-cut, free-flowing forms with texture. Melton wools, tweeds and spongy knits with the lightness of cotton and silk lace and voiles. Different shades of green, blue, sand, stone, grey, brown and black gave colour to a slightly military-inspired collection.
JÚLIO TORCATO showed his “Two (2) Collection” for men, inspired on duality and duplicity, with differences and apparently opposing concepts: light/dark, tradition/modernity, classical/street. Contemporary and very urban silhouettes, with synthetic leather, velvet, leather, 100% wool, stripes and tartans with emphasis on black, navy, Bordeaux and grey. The designer, PEDRO PEDRO, who returned to Portugal Fashion after his absence since 2007, presented a very subtle and feminine women’s collection, with free-flowing silhouettes inspired on dancing, made of natural fabrics (felted wool, double-sided wool, bouclé fabrics, jerseys) with faded colours in shades of grey, brown, khaki, pink and bright mustard and black. The “Palácio dos CTT” was also the setting for “Bloom” designers MAFALDA FONSECA and JOÃO MELO COSTA.
JULIO TORCATO
Nine fashion shows took place at the “PALÁCIO DA BOLSA” in Porto on 27th March, the third day of the event.
MEAM BY RICARDO PRETO showed his men and women’s collection “Danza Preparata”, inspired on the piece created by Rui Horta to commemorate the centenary of the birth of the musician John Cage. Stylized silhouettes contrasting with XL sizes and a winter colour palette where blue, black and Bordeaux clash with bright shades such as orange, green, yellow and orchid. “RECLAIM” was the title given to SUSANA BETTENCOURT‘s women’s collection, contrasting nature and architecture with excellent knitted garments and an abundance of jacquards, and printed fabrics with different textures in shades of sand, tan, black and grey with some splashes of white.
ESTELITA MENDONÇA‘s contemporary men’s clothing once again made an impact; the collection was based on sober work wear and work uniforms, with Bermuda shorts, trousers, jackets and coats in simple lines with simple shades of dark grey and black. ANABELA BALDAQUE presented her “La Hora del té” collection of winter clothing for women including capes, long, big, thick coats, and scarves made of wool with brocade, silk, lurex, jerseys, on printed design and single-coloured fabrics. Colours: yellow, orange, black, multiple shades of blue, beige and ecru.
The CARLOS GIL collection, called “All In” and based on a game, showed an elegant city woman in a combination of styles and silhouettes with a bold and balanced, casual smart and audacious figure.
Reds, browns, blues and black for attractive long coats and blazers with waistbands, combinations of fabrics and leathers, shiny leather, dresses with flounced skirts, puff sleeves and seductive straight-legged bell-bottom trousers. Another marvellous collection for women was “Paris Nº1″, by the fashion designer DIOGO MIRANDA, based on a couture silhouette with a certain subversive tone. A pure but stylized look with rocketing shoulder pads, clearly-defined waists and exaggerated hips, angular volumes and very feminine, opulent and elegant silhouettes. Shantung, silks, Mikado, brocades, Devoré velvet, wool or silk crepe in shades of Bordeaux, black, white, navy and surprising creations in Riviera blue combined with a rust shade.
DIOGO MIRANDA
The programme at the “Palácio da Bolsa” ended with a simple and very elegant collection for men and women created by the famous designer MIGUEL VIEIRA. Classical and stylized lines interpreted in a very up-to-date and appealing manner. Tight-fit jacket suits, long straight silk dresses with gold zips or Evasee skirts in quilted fabrics. All white and a lot of black. The impressive “ARAB ROOM” of “Palácio da Bolsa” in Porto was the magnificent setting for the modern collections of emerging “Bloom” designers KLAR and PEDRO NETO.
PEDRO NETO
The last day of Portugal Fashion, 28th March, took place at the event’s usual venue in Porto, the emblematic “ALFÂNDEGA DO PORTO” (former Porto Customs office). The programme commenced with the influential world of Portuguese footwear and fashion industry, which is of vital importance for the sector’s economy and its exports. On show were footwear brands from collections by DKODE, FLY LONDON, GOLDMUD e ALEKSANDRA MOURA, J. REINALDO, NOBRAND and SILVIA REBATTO. Also present were Portuguese fashion brands such as BALLENTINA, CONCRETO BY HELDER BAPTISTA, CHEYENNE, MAD DRAGON SEEKER BY ALEKSANDRINE CALDIHE & DANIEL SIMÕES.
“Bloom” designers ALIGN WITH KAY, EDUARDO AMORIM, ATELIER CTRL and TERESA ABRUNHOSA also showed their collections. The men’s clothing collection, VICRI, included elegant and simple garments for men, from casual and sporty to gala suits, all inspired on the film “Quadrophenia”. LION OF PORCHES was true to its brand with garments for men, women and children inspired on the British aesthetic traditions. With heraldic and elegant features, the “Lion” line was greatly inspired on elements from the equestrian world, with colours like green, yellow, beige, navy and red. The more sophisticated and modern “City” line was inspired on natural colours of wool like beige and ecru. The designer NUNO BALTAZAR offered a women’s collection with marvellous, wearable but sophisticated garments with stylized lines and very marked waists, knitted, in wool and Glen plaid in shades of grey, beige, black and white; the collection ended with metal fabric looks in a tan shade and short white dresses decorated with stones. The women’s collection presented by TM COLLECTION BY TERESA MARTINS kept the designer’s ethnic identity, shown in its austere military coats with embroidered highlights and touches of colour. Embroidered with silk on collars, cuffs and pockets. Velvets in shades of green and ochre with touches of blood red, in contrasting colours and fabrics.
The men’s fashion collection DIELMAR, which celebrated its 50th anniversary, was inspired on “The Tweed Run”. This emblematic bicycle tour through the centre of London is accompanied by tradition and style, an encounter of cyclists dressed in tweed, leather and wool. A vintage image, with no problem in mixing patterns. Tweed jackets and suits, waistcoats, bow ties and ties with different motifs, combined with Cotelé velvet trousers or complemented with a pair of sneakers or flannel trousers, for a vintage and contemporary look.
DIELMAR
With her “Black Rainbow” collection, FÁTIMA LOPES closed the 36th edition of Portugal Fashion at “Alfândega do Porto” with appealing models of architectural and deconstructed, asymmetrical and curved silhouettes. Shades of deep purple, matt green, organic blue, all dominated by black. Criss-crossed strings in necklines, transparencies and details in leather in a matching shade completed the look of a seductive woman.
FATIMA LOPES
And the footwear and bag designer LUÍS ONOFRE offered a wide range of models, from flat boots to high stilettos, spectacular platform sandals, above-the-knee boots and ballroom dancing shoes along with bags of all sizes. The main colour, black, contrasted with varnished reds, oranges, gold, cobalt blue and progressive vignettes of nude darkened to marsala. Metal leathers, very bright varnishes, oxidised varnishes, painted leather and applications in black nickel and pink gold.
The fourth edition of the “BRAND UP” showroom took place at the same time as the fashion shows at “Alfândega do Porto”, and offered designers and brands the opportunity to display and promote their products on a commercial and informative platform for the substantial number of international visitors. Around a hundred foreign guests, mainly specialised journalists and purchasing agents, attended the 2015 edition of Portugal Fashion.
These international initiatives to promote Portuguese fashion and more specifically publicise 2015/16 Autumn/Winter collections include activities that started in February 2015 in Madrid, where Portugal Fashion participated with Portugal in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid as a guest country. This international campaign proceeded with activities in London Fashion Week, between 20th and 24th February, and the Prêt-à-Porter Week in Paris, in March.
The chairman of ANJE, João Rafael Koehler, said that “the 36th edition of Portugal Fashion demonstrates the force and resistance of the Portuguese fashion sector. Despite the still difficult economic situation, Portugal Fashion maintains a high level of quality according to international standards and a very varied fashion show programme, which enables the event to cover different niches of the fashion sector. In addition to famous designers, emerging designers and clothing and footwear brands, the event continues to give young designers the opportunity to show their work, which obviously helps to renew the Portuguese fashion scene.”
Portugal Fashion is a project for which ANJE (National Association of Young Entrepreneurs) is responsible, in collaboration with ATP (Portugal’s Textile and Clothing Association), and is currently financed by QREN under the Compete Programme – Operational Competitiveness Programme.
Since its creation in 1995, Portugal Fashion has, over the past two decades, gained a culture of creativity focused on fashion. Over these last 20 years, this project has enabled great Portuguese designers and brands to consolidate their position in the fashion world, developing new technical skills, creating new professional opportunities, linking design to industry and opening up new possibilities of internationalisation and promotion in the fashion industry.
TERESA MARTINS
DIOGO MIRANDA
LUIS BUCHINHO
ESTELITA MENDONCA
KATTY XIOMARA
FATIMA LOPES
LION OF PORCHES
CARLOS GIL