A typical scene along the Kapuas.
Betang Tematu – one of the oldest Dayak longhouses in western Kalimantan.
A woman paddling her boat along the Danau.
IT was one awesome week, embracing the oldest Dayak longhouse in the world, cruising along the longest river in Borneo, visiting the largest monolith (Bukit Kelam) in Asia and exploring the biggest lake of Indonesia in the heart of Borneo.
We finally stood astride the Equator or 0 degree latitude in Pontianak before turning north to Kuching and home to Sarawak.
None of us had ever sat in a covered or open speedboat, travelling across a great lake – all in 50 minutes – to reach the other side where the Danau Sentarum Nature Park is centred.
For a week, the Kapuas was never far from our eyes – or heart. We drank its water, washed in it and even brought back to Sarawak the water from River Mandai (one of its tributaries), considered holy by the Ibans.
The Kapuas – a vast swath of water, cutting 1,143km or 710 miles across the Borneo terrain – is by far the longest river in Borneo. The Rajang is a mere 563km or 370 miles by comparison.
The Kapuas is also the longest river in Indonesia. At certain parts, it’s up to 270 metres wide. And its big secret is the Danau Sentarum, the largest lake in the whole island of Borneo.
The Kapuas originates in the Müller mountain range at the centre of Borneo island and flows west into the South China Sea, creating an extended marshy delta, west-southwest of Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan province. We followed the Kapuas Valley from Putussibau (906km from the mouth), taking five days by road.
Pontianak is the only city in the world that lies on the Equator. A later trip there enabled me to explore the deltaic region in greater detail, sometimes on foot.
A trip in a cargo boat (with draft up to two metres) from Putussibau to Pontianak would take a month.
Tourists can book rooms on board this kind of cargo boat, enjoy the scenic riverview and drink from the Kapuas for a month of easy living amidst equatorial dreamscapes.
Our expedition was an eye-opener for both green horns and veterans alike. We were introduced to the oldest longhouse at the farthest point on the Kapuas and then slowly moved towards the modern Kalimantan and the delta of the river.
All our 24 4×4 vehicles moved together, led by two police vehicles, in what must seemed like VIP treatment.
We reached the Kapuas Valley from Sarawak through the gateway of Badau, a small town next door to Lubok Antu in the Second Division of the state.
From this point onwards, it was yellow dusty road through jungles and sometimes rubber plantations.
At many points, thick mud splattering from water-logged roads made the going rather sluggish. When a vehicle got stuck, often more than a tyre deep, everyone gave a helping hand.
We were fortunate a team member had brought along helicopter winching ropes when one of the vehicles got bogged down at one point of the journey. Such a friendly attitude created a deep sense of camaraderie.
A few longhouses dotted the route to Putussibau, our next major town destination, two days away.
Among them, the best known two are Tematu Longhouse and Embaloh Longhouse – the latter said to be the oldest in the world – more than 200 years old.
We spent our first night at Tematu Longhouse. The womenfolk, clad in ceremonial Iban costumes, were on hand to welcome us. Each would have taken at least one hour to get dressed this way, making sure every minute detail counted.
Usually, one or two other women would help in the make-up, especially setting the hair-piece properly.
Almost all the pua kumbu skirts are made by a loving mother for her pretty daughter(s) as an act of love and generational pride.
The next day, we visited Danau Sentarum National Park or the Lanjak National Park – the high point in the expedition for the photographers.
During the dry season, the riverwater is so low that fishermen and women paddle small boats to the shallows to catch fish with very small nets or their own hands.
Houses on the shores stand on stilts above the mud and away from the water.
During the rainy season, the lakes swell – much like the Tonle Sap – submerging indigenous houses until they can no longer be seen.
Treetops appear above the water like willowing weeds and birds fly across the skies, marking out where the fish gather. At some parts of the lakes, one could even feel an eerie presence.
Different-sized speedboats criss-cross the lakes, bringing tourists for day trips or overnight stays at the various hotels on the shores.
The 1,320 sq km Danau Sentarum National Park is a natural source of water for many tributaries of the Kapuas and the habitat to thousands of species of flora and fauna – some fairly rare.
It lies some 700km upstream of the delta and reportedly has 20 seasonal lakes in its ecosystem forming half of the National Park. The other half includes a freshwater swamp lake and a vast peat swamp forest.
The Park has a rich fish fauna with around 240 recorded species, including the Asian Arowana and Clown Loach Botia.
Two hundred and thirty seven (237) bird species have been documented, including the Storm’s Stork and the Great Argus.
Of the 143 mammal species, 23 are endemic to Borneo, including the Proboscis Monkey. There is a relatively large population of the endangered orang utans in the Park. The 26 reptile species include the False Gavial and Estuarine Crocodile, according to Wikipedia.
Crossing the lake, we saw traditional fishermen and women eking out a living in the vast waters. Mainly Muslim Malays, they live in the 20 villages scattered around the lake. This area supports a population of 20,000 people, some of whom are Dayaks and other ethnic groups.
Our next destination was Embaloh Longhouse (on stilts) in Sungei Utik, another small tributary of the Kapuas. From outside, it looked awesome and we could not take our eyes off the architectural marvel. The longhouse was already drawn or painted by Dutch artists in the 1930’s.
A major bridge across the Kapuas.
The staircase of Memoloh Longhouse must be the oldest still being used in the world at more than 200 years old.
Four or five Chinese generations have lived by the banks of the Kapuas, eking out a living as fishermen, plantation workers and odd job labourers.
Most of the stilts or support pillars are 200 years old.
It would really have been nice if we could spend more time here for photography.
I would have considered it far-fetched had anyone previously told me about this ancient longhouse and described it as a Hollywood movie set.
But when I actually set foot at the place and took my first step up the 200-year-old belian (original) notched staircase in the ancient building (from Dutch period), I was transported into another anthropological world … a micro world within my own cultural space. It was my AVATAR!
The third day, with almost no punctures and breakdowns, our team reached Putussibau, the district capital of Kapuas Hulu with about 23,000 inhabitants, comprising are primarily Dayaks, Malays and Chinese. It is also the Putusibau’s biggest city.
Putussibau derives its name from Sibau River which flows into the Kapuas, then continues in a meandering bow and eventually flows back into the Kapuas.
From a bird’s eyeview, it looks as though the Sibau has cut the Kapuas. The Indonesian word for cut is putus – hence Putussibau. Travellers often wonder if Sibu (in Sarawak) was named by Indonesians from Putussibau.
On the fourth day of our expedition, having turned south towards the Equator, we reached Sintang, another town along the Kapuas with a strong history of Catholicism.
According to a local Roman Catholic priest, “Christians can learn a lot by visiting Sintang which is rich in cultures. Foreign priests learn about multi-culturalism and learn how to manage diversity in culture among the congregation.”
The Dayak parishioners still live in Dayak traditional house (longhouse) called betang. And surprisingly, one has to learn about so many different Dayak tribes – not just one.
Kapuas Hulu district, for example, has 20 Dayak tribes with different languages, traditions and cultures such as traditional dances, musical instruments, literature, weaving, handicrafts, cakes and foods.
Logging is obvious along the road and rafts of timber logs can be seen floating downriver.
It’s incredible over 300 species of fish have been identified with 234 commanding high economical value.
We had already enjoyed eating good fish over the past few days. Lais, lajong, both dried and fresh were offered for lunch and dinner.
Driving again towards Pontianak, we stopped to visit the legendary Bukit Kelam, also known as Black Rock, which, according to a local teacher, is the largest rock in the world – even bigger than Uluru (Ayers Rock).
Folklores abound here. One tells of an ugly monster that wished to marry the lovely Princess Dara Juanti.
But the Princess’ protector cursed the monster and it fell over and died, turning into a huge rock! It’s a single rock in itself, standing some 900 metres tall. It takes a strong and healthy young man at least five hours to climb to the top.
A Catholic Retreat, also known as the Maria Caves, in the Kelam hills, has the Stations of the Cross. A must-visit for Catholic pilgrims.
Finally, we reached Pontianak at the delta of the Kapuas.
Many houses in this city of 300,000 are built over the waterline and connected with each other by wooden bridges or plank walks on small stilts. Just two or three planks are enough for single person to walk on.
Some sturdier plank walks allow motorbikers to ride through. Cars are parked by the roadsides. Many of these roads, built towards the banks of the Kapuas, are full of potholes and not well-maintained. The most popular mode of transport is the motorcycle which usually carries a whole family of four or five.
Small boats sail up and down the Kapuas, transporting people and goods from one place to another.
Watching some of these big Bandung family-sized commercial boats plying the river, one feels that time has stood still for the people of Kalimantan – reminescient of a scene right out of the 50’s.
The city is located on the Equator and almost all tourists will try to get to the Equator Monument on the northern part of the city.
The first monument was built in 1928 by a Dutch geographer but later, in 1938, architect Silaban built the present monument. In 1991, a grander and renovated monument was given a grand opening.
Little boys continue to jump happily into the Kapuas from the plank walks outside their wooden homes. Dogs sleep in the sun while mothers do their laundry on small platforms constructed just for that purpose.
Large barges laden with oil palm seeds sail down the river while fishing boats pass by quickly – to be home before the rain comes. Life takes many forms in the Kapuas which is still throbbing mightily as if to say it will face the 21st century with gusto!
It’s still carrying water from its source more than 1,000km away, pouring out its soul into the Java Sea, washing the lands coloured by different cultures, religions and social ideals.
A speedboat ferrying people going to the Danau.
A typical Bandung or boat shophouse on the Kapuas.
The Kapuas provides water for washing and cleaning.