There is an abundance of New York inspired eateries around Sydney now; pretty much everywhere you go you are sure to run into a nice, chunky reuben sandwich and a massive milkshake - it's a flooded market. But when an eatery comes along that reps the five boroughs so well, there really is no amount of overcrowding that can take away from the quality, and that's exactly the case with Bowery Lane. The Manhattan-inspired cafe recently opened at 1 O'Connell Street in Sydney's banking district area, offering a casual atmosphere, a sleek well-designed interior with nice lighting and intimate booths, and a communal long table set up to speak to the menu's mix of massive shared meat plates; generous, energising salads; and some seriously delicious burgers. Rather than focus on just stereotypical American fare, the venue has decided to incorporate the many different ethnic groups that make up New York's rich cultural landscape, so there's a variety here that's well worth repeat visits.
If you're feeling a bit indulgent, you should start your feast by browsing their milkshake offerings. I recommend the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup Milkshake ($7) but if you're after a heady buzz rather than a weighty, bloated feeling then go through the impressive wine list; it's not as comprehensive as surrounding venues but the focus here is on quality and consistency, so you're pretty much guaranteed to be pleased with whatever decision you make.
If you want the full experience, save your excitement over the shared meat platter options and opt for some starters. Grab a serving of Manchego Croquettes ($14) for something a bit out of the ordinary, with the fried balls hiding a blend of potato and manchego cheese that pairs up well with the smoked, mild chilli aoili that comes with.
While the croquettes aren't as heavy as you think, if you want something a bit lighter then dive into the House Smoked Hickory Salmon ($17) which comes with puffed wild rice and a bottarga salad. The pieces of salmon are shaped in a cylindrical fashion, balancing the nice crunchiness of the rice, and light salad with a very subtle smoky flavour which drives the dish. While it's enough to share between two, I suggest you keep this one to yourself since there is only three - albeit large - pieces of salmon.
If you want a preview of just how well they do their meats here, then go for an entree of Char Grilled Lamb Ribs ($14), served in a stack, coupled with spicy chimi churri sauce and topped with rocket. If you want to stick with seafood for the time being, then you can always skip this and grab some Yamba Prawn Sliders ($16) or go for some Sydney Rock Oysters ($21 for 6; $40 for 12) (they also have some Oysters Rockefeller ($23 for 6; $42 for 12).
The perfect salad that comes with their Jamon Serrano ($19) dish is something essential, giving the thin slabs of air-dried meat a very refreshing overall taste. Witlof, shaved pear, and rocket are great here, but the huge balls of buffalo mozzarella is what will really win you over. More impressive is the La Stella Buratta ($17/$26) - candied olive, petite radish, confit tomato, and torn ciabatta. The tomato is the star here, impossibly sweet and juicy with a very moreish taste to it, luckily you have an abundance on the plate. I'm a fairly unhealthy eater myself, but I'd gladly forego the more weighty options here to arrive at this masterpiece time and time again.
They do burgers very well at Bowery Lane, satisfying the trend of 'bigger is better' while also putting a well-placed focus on quality ingredients. Case in point is their straight-forward approach with their New York Cheeseburger ($18) (which you can get in a deal with a cold Brooklyn Lager for $25). Their meat here is unquestionable, so I'd be surprised if one was to get a cheeseburger where the wagyu wasn't cooked with precision; on this burger you'll also get bois bourdan, monterey jack tomato, cos caremelised onion, and fries. The fries at Bowery Lane are nice and thick, but nothing too special; though, I don't think you'll have much room left after the burger anyway. You can also get a Tempura Soft Shell Crab Burger ($22), a American Chicken Fillet ($17), a Byron Bay Pork ($16), and a Toasted Reuben Sandwich ($16) to satisfy your bread-with-filling needs.
While all the above speaks to the excellence of Bowery Lane, what will really keep you coming back is their shared plates (which I've already mentioned a few times above because I really am that smitten with them). Grab three or four friends and order up a few share plates, it works out quite reasonably and gives you a chance to see just how proficient they are with the slow cooked meats at Bowery Lane. The Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder ($55) and the 1KG Braised Wagyu Short Rib ($58) are my two picks of the four options here, both bursting with flavour, which is rich in every single bite. The flavourful horseradish cream that comes with the wagyu short rib inches out the lamb to make this the clear winner in the shared section of the menu, pairing up with the roasted garlic to add an extra layer to this ridiculously tender, gelatinous meat.
If you're after something a bit lighter - and a lot healthier - shift your attention to the Whole BBQ Organic Chicken ($48) with lentils, grains, and smoked yoghurt. Nothing should be left out though, so don't ignore the fourth option - Pork Collar & Scratching's ($46), which comes with an apple, parsley, and fennel salad with spiced pear chutney to add a hint of distinctiveness.
You have plenty of options here, with the addition of the mains section which has a very worthy option in the Duck Ragu ($26) pasta and the 300g Pasture Fed New York Strip ($34). It's going to be hard to get a feel for what Bowery Lane is truly capable of with just one visit, so there's more than enough here to coax you back at least 10 more times, but for those that want to experience a lot in just one visit I'd suggest asking about their Banquet Menu.
The lunch and dinner menus are similar here, but with the quality they put into every dish I wouldn't imagine that the breakfast menu would be anything you'd want to miss.
Bowery Lane:
Address: 1 O’Connell St, Sydney NSW 2000
Contact: (02) 9252 8017
Website: bowerylane.com.au