Most who went to primary school in Australia will vaguely remember their sixth grade trip down to the nation's capital; a trip that had the unintentional consequence of coating our perceptions of Canberra with a dull, dry colour, by focusing on the layers of Australian society which many kids just don't find engaging at such a young age. Hence, there has been a nation of kids growing up with an unfair stigma against Canberra, viewing it as some sort of a hub for Australian politics and nothing more. Those who peer a bit deeper have seen Canberra for what it is, an ever-evolving and fascinating city which not only stands as our cultural epicentre, but one which is home to some of the most exciting developments in Australia's progressive art and food scenes. Hence, my visit to the city I once wrongfully dismissed as 'boring.'
With Canberra's climate not-quite-Melbourne and not-quite-Sydney, the region is left in the unique position as one of the nation's go-to areas for fresh produce, hence the brilliant array of markets that pop up around Canberra throughout the week. The reason for my visit was the increasingly popular eight-week Truffle Festival that spreads all throughout the city, but what I discovered was much more than just a place to sit and eat truffles all day. In addition to rediscovering the beauty and significance of such cultural centres like the National Museum of Australia and Australian War Memorial, the city opened my eyes to just why publications like the New York Times have championed it's unique atmosphere.
There are certainly big, beautiful sky scenes as I enter the city centre - referred to by locals as 'Civic' - with buildings looking all neat and compact save for some structurally spectacular venues here and there. One of the most impressive sights remains one of the city's longest standing gems: the National Museum of Australia; our first stop off on what was a very varied media tour of this great city.
Stop 1: National Museum of Australia (NMA)
One of the best views of Lake Burley Griffin - Canberra's centerpiece - can be seen from NMA's Museum Cafe, where we enjoyed out first showcase of locally sourced produce and deliciously fresh dishes. If you can tear your eyes from the picture-perfect view, I'd suggest giving the cafe's menu some serious thought; Broadbean Catering have put together straight-forward, seasonal dishes, highlighting Canberra's high standards when it comes to fresh ingredients.
Image captured by John Gollings, National Museum of Australia
NMA illustrates the complexities of Australian history without shying away from the darker parts, symbolising important facets with imposing installations such as the Uluru Line - a gigantic, larger-than-life structural loop that towers over the museum - and the jaw-dropping Garden of Australian Dreams, in which we spent most of our time. The Garden is several maps layered onto one another, styled into one massive, complex map of which is set out like a sketch of Australia itself. The word 'Home' is repeated on the map in over 100 languages, speaking to the multicultural history of Australia and giving the country one of it's most awe-inspiring symbols.
With stops aplentym and our arrival in Canberra delayed - due to that massive power outage at Sydney Airport recently - we sadly didn't get to spend as much time as I hoped in NMA, rushing off for a 10 minute drive to our next stop, the first of many hotels we would visit on the weekend: Ibis Styles
http://www.nma.gov.au/
Stop 2: Ibis Styles, Narrabundah
Image supplied and used with permission
This award-winning, four star property is an impressive low-rise hotel with a warm, communal feel. Many people seem to stop here on their way to a ski trip, so the hotel rooms have ample space for equipment; they even have family rooms fitted out to sleep 5 people (or two couples).
Image supplied and used with permission
Our purpose was found inside the hotel's quaint restaurant where Graham Hudson, owner of locally famous Silo Bakery was waiting for us, with a whole heap of delicious gifts. The bakery - which he co-owns with Leanne Gray - has been described as "part Brooklyn, part wartime Parisian..." and while we weren't able to take a trip to see the hyped venue, we were shifted to the irresistible vibe of a quality bakery via exceptional pastries, world-class cheese, and some very warming moscato.
Hudson took us through the ins and outs of a day at Silo Bakery, calling pictures of early-morning hipsters tucking into some baked eggs with truffle or popping by to purchase delicate chocolate tarts for later consumption. Following our talk with Graham, which made us want to travel the five minutes from Ibis Styles to Silo immediately, we were off to what would be our hotel for the night Hotel Mercure.
http://www.ibisstylescanberra.com.au/
http://silobakery.com.au/
Stop 3: Hotel Mercure, Braddon
Image supplied and used with permission
Old world, colonial charm comes straight from this heritage listed building, which is centered around a picturesque courtyard - one which you would expect to have found at a prestigious English university in the 1800s. A bit past the lobby is a fireplace which faces antique furniture and beautiful timber walls. We were shown to our rooms after taking in the ambiance of the place, finally getting a chance to unpack in a very spacious room.
Image supplied and used with permission
The balcony opens up to face the gorgeous courtyard, the air conditioner is set at the perfect temperature, the mounted plasma screen is massive, and the huge king sized bed is soft and cushy; what more could you want? This was the 'superior room' and almost made me to just curl up with a book and call it a night; but alas, a special dinner was to be served.
We first had a chat with Hotel Manager Scott Grant by one of the fireplaces with glasses of mulled wine; the perfect cure for the winter chills; and then it was through the double doors and into a Ainslie Bar & Bistro.
Ainslie Bar & Bistro is the indoors dining concept at the Mercure, focusing on a clean, simple look and hearty, winter-ready meals. From rabbit meat served in earthy soup, to cookies and cream cheescake, our dinner spoke volumes for what's on offer here. Servings are generous and well-priced, using few ingredients and accenting strong flavours. Wine here is given serious thought, with some of the best in local wines available
http://www.mercurecanberra.com.au/
Stop 4: Capital Region Farmer's Markets
Located at the gateway, deep into the Exhibition Park in Canberra (known as EPIC) is the lively Capital Region Farmer's Markets. Every Saturday morning over 100 stalls showcasing the best in the region's produce are set up in rows under cover.
Those in the know come to shop here for all their weekly ingredients, navigating the rows while an all-male choir sings rock cover songs in the background. It's an addictive atmosphere, with locally famous stallholders shelling out samples of their fine products to a very varied crowd. Oysters, chai, pizzas, coffee, hand-crafted chocolates; there are so many options here and at fair prices as well. One of the most popular seems to be Dream Cuisine, a patisserie that seems ever-present at Canberra's many markets, with macaroons to die for (try to cherry chocolate, salted caramel, or truffle macaroons and just try disagree) and perhaps the best chocolate croissant I've found in Australia.
It was hard to leave here; produce this fresh and varied is hard to find in bigger cities, making a day-trip down to Canberra just for these markets entirely worth it.
http://www.capitalregionfarmersmarket.com.au/
Stop 5: French Black Truffles of Canberra
I realised I wasn't fully aware of the fuss around truffles until I stepped onto this beautiful farm, escaping the wind chill in a cosy little shed and listening to owner Sherry McArdle-English talk about the farm's humble beginnings. Sherry works is a psychologist who works with disabled people while her husband, Gavin, is a civil-engineer; not quite the couple you'd expect to start growing truffles.
A very delicate and labour-intensive process goes into growing these truffles, and a short season makes them all the more sought after. Canberra is placed in the league of New Zealand and Tasmania as one of the very few regions which can grow these delicacies. A specific combination of changing climate, season, soil, and hard work goes into the process by which the truffles mature and are ready to be uprooted; and digging these treasures up isn't an easy process either. They are impossible to locate for humans, which is why carefully trained dogs are used.
Image supplied and used with permission
One of Sherry's prized truffle dogs, Snuffle, is hyperactive once we get to the paddock, on which 2500 trees are planted in neat rows and columns. Snuffle runs around the paddock for awhile, rapidly sniffing the ground until she comes to a single tree and begins to signal to Sherry that she has found a truffle ready to be dug up. Sherry joins in the sniffing now, making sure that the truffle is mature and strong enough to uproot. After a few minutes of digging, out pops a truffle, looking like a rather unappetising clump of dirt at first.
Image supplied and used with permission
The truffle is washed, weighed, and stored in the fridge (of where it can only remain for a maximum of 12 days) back at the shed, to which we sadly farewell the refreshing farm atmosphere and trudge off to our next stop.
http://canberratruffles.com.au/
Stop 6: Australian Institute of Sport
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I didn't expect to be as wow'd as I was here, walking into the one-of-a-kind institution while sporting stars in thin matching jackets walked from room to room with a purpose. This very large, varied space is a hub for sport hopefuls to build on their skills, crafting their dreams with state-of-the-art facilities to help them along on their journey.
Soccer camps, swim schools, even dance championships; everything aimed at fostering future sporting stars is concentrated in the AIS. The venue's 65 hectares is made up of world-class training facilities, including one of the most technologically advanced swimming pools in the world, as well as scientific research facilities which are focused on improving methods of training and providing windows into the future of sport, and housing for sport hopefuls.
During our tour of the venue we stumbled across the National DanceSport Championships, witnessing a variety of styles like ballroom and jive. It is surreal watching what could have been a scene straight out of Strictly Ballroom, up close and personal, as colourful dancers with anxious looks paced the back hallways.
Over 100,000 visitors descend upon the AIS every year, not only eager to improve on their sporting skills, but also visiting the massive arena which has played host to the likes of Lady Gaga and Pink when in concert mode.
Perhaps most engaging for visitors is the interactive sport exhibit, referred to as 'Sportex'. This is an area that is both educational and incredibly fun, with wheelchair basketball, virtual downhill skiing, rock climbing, football penalty shootouts, and framed sports memorabilia all over. It's an essential stop-off included in every AIS tour.
http://www.ausport.gov.au/ais
Stop 7: Ibis Styles, Eagle Hawk
This one is a bit quirkier than the Ibis Styles in Narrabundah, set on beautiful, expansive landscape, where wildlife is easily spotted from inside the cosy lobby area.
Aside from the huge chess set in the middle of the lounge area, we didn't get to see much of this hotel, flowing into the cafe area to meet former My Kitchen Rules contestants Andrew Hinge and Emilia Vimalasiri - who have a food blog HERE. Both were excited to talk us through the burgeoning Canberra food scene, from street (like Burmese curry!) to fine dining.
The 151 room hotel feels cut-off from the rest of Canberra, until you realise that it's only 10 minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from the CBD. Therein lies one of the most attractive things about Canberra; everything is so close together and compacted, with the question "how far is it?" always being met with an answer of under 20 minutes.
http://www.ibis.com/gb/hotel-9271-ibis-styles-canberra-eagle-hawk/index....
Stop 8: Australian War Memorial
Image supplied and used with permission
Crucial to the preservation of our country's history, the Australian War Memorial is a long-standing tribute to the many wars Australia has been involved in, and the fallen soldiers who died protecting this country. We stopped by there just in time for the Last Post Ceremony which happens daily at 4:55pm.
At each ceremony the story behind one of the over 102,000 names on The Roll of Honour is told, with visitors laying wreaths and paying their respects before The Ode is recited.
http://www.awm.gov.au/
Stop 9: Mount Majura Vineyard
Image supplied and used with permission. Image captured by Belinda Pratten
There's no hiding this vineyard's barrels of wine, as a massive glass window allows you to peer into the distillery from the small cafe-like retail area.
This vineyard is a unique and necessary experience, reiterated by the truffle brie that was placed in front of us. Yeah, that's right, truffle brie - creamy and rich cheese with truffles in the middle. This was, of course, paired with a selection of some of their best wines, all of which are focused on strong, fruity notes.
The ancient limestone of the region makes it ideal for wines like their signature Tempranillo - widely acclaimed as one of Australia's best. The vineyard is only 10 minutes from Canberra city, offering breakfast degustations, wine tastings, regional food platters, and self-guided "Gumboot Tours."
For the duration of the 8-week Truffle Festival, guests can purchased a $150 package which includes a truffle hunt, truffle brie at Mount Majura Vineyard, and a three-course dinner at fine dining restaurant PodFood Pialligo (undoubtedly truffle focused).
http://www.mountmajura.com.au/
Stop 10: Novotel Canberra
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Spending the night here, in this very central location and 4.5 star hotel, was a nice little slice of luxury. The apartment-like rooms come with a small kitchen area, two plasma TV's, a very comfy couch, a spacious bathroom, and an enormous bed. The pillows here are much better than your average hotel, making waking up the next morning quite difficult.
Image supplied and used with permission
286 spacious and contemporary accommodation rooms fill up this building, along with a gym, spa, sauna, and heated indoor swimming pool. Though, my main interest was the bar and restaurant, elegantly designed and looking more like a fine dining destination than a typical hotel restaurant.
Yet another dip into the many delights of the Truffle Festival, our dinner was a special three-course meal, designed around the various ways chefs can use truffles to add a whole new dimension to a dish. From seared scallops with truffle on top, to chicken stuffed with truffle; by using high quality, locally grown truffles in fairly simple ways, the chef managed to create a sumptuous, superb dinner that further reiterated the value of truffles.
http://novotelcanberra.com.au/
Stop 11: Old Bus Depot Markets
Seeing as we couldn't get enough of the EPIC markets, we were all very much looking forward to our early morning visit to the Old Bus Depot Markets on our final day in Canberra. The fresh mountain air was out to deny us any sort of comfort, but luckily the markets are housed in a very warm, roomy space, sprawled across the massive split-level depot with a much more encompassing aesthetic than the EPIC markets.
Here, craft and design stalls are given their own area, able to animate a large section of the depot alongside a pop-up art gallery. Rows of designer fashion, cute crafts, and local art were on display, sporting reasonable price tags and dressing the markets up with a lively atmosphere. The lower level is dedicated to produce, again showcasing the focus on the freshness Canberra locals demand. Instantly eye-catching was the fresh pots of boiling warm apple cider and mulled wine which sat by freshly squeezed juice towards the back of the depot, just before the pop-up food court which had crepes, curries, and dumplings.
Stop 12: National Art Gallery of Australia
There's nothing like a classic art tour in one of the nation's finest galleries, even if you are strapped for time. Jackson Pollock's world famous, highly sought-after Number 11, 1952 AKA "Blue Poles" calls NGA home, sitting as one of the star attractions in the gallery's permanent collection. Impressionist paintings by the likes of Oscar-Claude Monet and Pablo Picasso are also part of the collection, making the NGA one of the premiere art galleries in Australia.
A special exhibition by the name of Atua: sacred gods from Polynesia is currently running at the gallery, documenting the migration, survival, and religion of one of the most mysterious cultures in the Southern Hemisphere. For more information click HERE.
http://nga.gov.au/Home/Default.cfm
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In 1911 the Australian government ran a competition to create the political heart and capital of this fine nation, necessary in response to the constant bickering between Sydney and Melbourne. American architects Walter Burley Griffin and Marion Mahony were the winners of that competition, designing Canberra to be a compact, hugely efficient city that paired well with it's surrounding natural beauty. It is quite clear that the layout of Canberra is a big part of it's rapidly rising reputation as one of the country's most essential destinations; one that is no longer just for those who want a didactic day out. With the influx of hipsters, designers, gastronomes, and wine enthusiasts, Canberra's profile is taking on new layers, one of which is driven by the growing awareness and desire of truffles.
The Truffle Festival continues into late August 2014. For more information and a full list of the many various events planned for the festival head to the official website HERE
Chris Singh traveled to Canberra courtesy of Accor Hotels, official accommodation partners for the Truffle Festival Canberra & Capital Region 2014
Headline image captured by George Serras, National Museum of Australia