Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens
Stradun Street, Dubrovnik; photo by Natasha Bidgood
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens
The Gates of Pila, Dubrovnik; photo by Natasha Bidgood
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel
The southern Dalmatian coast; photo by Natasha Bidgood
CHEAT SHEET
WHERE
Croatia stretches some thousand miles along the Adriatic Sea, jutting inland in the north toward Serbia and Hungary. It’s anchored by two major cities, the interior capital of Zagreb in the north and coastal Dubrovnik in the south.
WHY GO
Spectacular beaches, layer upon layer of ancient history and architecture, and a renewed energy as the country puts its war-rattled past behind it.
HOW
Zagreb and Dubrovnik are well connected to the rest of Europe by air, served primarily by Lufthansa and Croatia Air.
TABLET TIP
There’s practically no end to the quaint seaside towns and stylish resort areas along the coast, and they’re popular for good reason, but it’s also worth making a short (and inexpensive) detour to visit Zagreb, the picturesque and atmospheric capital.
OUR HOTELS
Esplanade Zagreb
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Dubrovnik Sun Gardens
Hotel Bellevue
Check rates →
Croatia, July, 2013
For many travelers, Croatia is essentially one long coastline, a set of quaint seaside villages and increasingly glamorous resort towns strung along the Adriatic. Indeed, it would be a mistake to come to the country and never set eyes on the water. But even if you’ve only got time for two stops, taking time for both stylish Dubrovnik, on the coast, and the ancient city of Zagreb, in the interior, will convey some sense of how many layers the country contains. In a short trip you’ll take in everything from medieval squares and striking neo-Brutalist architecture to rowdy festivals and some of Europe’s finest beaches.
Start your trip at the Esplanade Zagreb, a 1920s Art Deco hotel that got its start during the heyday of the Orient Express. If it’s lost any of its old-fashioned glamour in the ensuing years, it certainly doesn’t show; the grand European hotel’s old-fashioned good looks endure.
For another taste of classic Zagreb, head to the northwest section of the city and make your way to K & K, an homage to all things coffee and literature just off Trg Bana Jelačića Square. From there, amble through Dolac farmer’s market, whether to hunt for a snack or just to take in the sights and smells. It’s as much a cultural experience as a culinary one, with farmers coming from the surrounding countryside to sell their produce and local shoppers making their rounds of the stands.
Next it’s off to the quirky Museum of Broken Relationships, the brainchild of ex-sweethearts Olinka Vištica and Dražen Grubišić. Surely it says something about the brooding character of the city that this is Zagreb’s most visited museum, though anyone should be able to appreciate it, heartbroken or not. The museum is a delight, and the trip there, via the shortest cable car in the world, only adds to the charm.
After ruminating on all that failed love, it might be time for a nice, leisurely lunch to reset the mood. The terraces at Pod Gričkim Topom make for fine outdoor dining when the weather is good, especially with their specialty, a plate of baked octopus. While away the afternoon at one of the cafés or bars along nearby Tkalčićeva Street. Watching people stroll by from an outdoor table, it’s easy to linger there into the evening before hitting the drippingly atmospheric cocktail lounge back at the Esplanade.
Though it feels a world away, Dubrovnik is just an hour’s flight from Zagreb. During summer, the city’s Old Town is positively swarming with humanity, which is why the Radison Blu, set on a rocky stretch of coast on the outskirts of town, feels like such a reprieve. Nor is it merely some little guest house to use as a base; it’s a self-contained oasis of a resort, with no fewer than thirteen restaurants and bars, the region’s largest spa, three pools and a beach.
When you’re ready to do some exploring, taking a water taxi to the Old Town makes for a scenic trip into the city. Dubrovnik is famously picturesque, the coastal topography and the buildings crowded along the hills conspiring to create photo ops at every turn. While the temperatures are still cool and the crowds relatively small, head to the city walls, the ancient fortifications that line the coast.
Those walls are one of many reminders that this is a place with a tumultuous history — some of which, of course, is quite recent. The War Photo Ltd. gallery, dedicated entirely to war photography, is a sobering experience, moving beyond words. A short walk away, the Rector’s and Sponza palaces, former Franciscan and Dominican monasteries, offer some space for reflection.
Practically everywhere you look, there’s evidence of how far the city has come since the war-rattled ’80s and ’90s. Today it feels more like a magnet for stylish European travelers than some kind of gem in the rough, with boutique shops to match. One of the best is Maria Boutique, which draws local and visiting shoppers alike. Those just looking to pick up a souvenir should head to Dubrovačka kuća, the best gift shop in town.
An early evening cable car trip up Srd Hill, Dubrovnik’s highest vantage point, offers another sort of perspective on the city. It’s a view that’s not to be missed, the perfect end to a day out before returning to one of those thirteen bars and restaurants at the hotel. All this and you haven’t even been to the beach yet.
Dave Waddell
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CHEAT SHEET
WHERE
Croatia stretches some thousand miles along the Adriatic Sea, jutting inland in the north toward Serbia and Hungary. It’s anchored by two major cities, the interior capital of Zagreb in the north and coastal Dubrovnik in the south.
WHY GO
Spectacular beaches, layer upon layer of ancient history and architecture, and a renewed energy as the country puts its war-rattled past behind it.
HOW
Zagreb and Dubrovnik are well connected to the rest of Europe by air, served primarily by Lufthansa and Croatia Air.
TABLET TIP
There’s practically no end to the quaint seaside towns and stylish resort areas along the coast, and they’re popular for good reason, but it’s also worth making a short (and inexpensive) detour to visit Zagreb, the picturesque and atmospheric capital.
OUR HOTELS
Esplanade Zagreb
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Dubrovnik Sun Gardens
Hotel Bellevue
Check rates →