parisiangentleman:
12 Ways Heavier Men Can Look Thinner and More Elegant | Parisian Gentleman
Changing how we dress takes real effort, and with so many other concerns in life, at times we feel too exhausted to think about a wardrobe overhaul. Add to this, all the advice which includes ‘dos, and don’ts’ on the subject of how to dress well, which can drain our energy just thinking about sorting through all the gobbledygook.
I’ve heard overweight men say they don’t want to spend time and money on clothes because when they lose weight, their clothes will be useless or will need to be altered. But a man doesn’t have to “wait to lose weight” when he can look great right now !
If a heavier man looks better in his clothes, then it’s possible that he will feel motivated to eat better and get outside and participate in life more, simply based on his decision to be his best “sartorial self”.
Once you decide to change how you dress, heed this caveat: During the first few years following your decision to dress well, sometimes you will feel bad when you make errors and will be tempted to give up because you feel embarrassed. But mistakes and errors are part of the beauty of the process in this growing world of those who place a priority on pursuing elegance.
People who judge you for making mistakes still need to work on their own search for elegance, because behavior always trumps outward appearance in this field.
You know already for the substantial man, dark colors shrink body size perception, busy patterns exaggerate body size, turtlenecks make you look bigger, vertical lines (are said to) stretch the silhouette and wearing oversized clothes make you look larger than you really are.
If you’re quite large, buying off-the-rack may not be possible for certain items you need. Quickly identify if trousers, shirts, or jackets must be custom-made for you or not. Then make an appointment with a tailor you can afford who has good references to get started on a few simple wardrobe pieces you need that are unavailable in your size in ready-to-wear.
Because this is our first article addressing the specific subject of the larger gentleman, we have included a lot of links to help expand and delve deeper into the topic.
Let’s get started with a dozen (hopefully inspiring) steps toward the pursuit of elegance:
1 – WEAR MAGNIFICENT SHOES
Big guys seem to look better when they’re dressed up. So embrace your space and celebrate your fortitude by dressing up more than you dress down. Think ship-shape instead of barge. A good pair of shoes can make everything look better.
Pay what you can for quality shoes since beautiful shoes are an easy way to up your elegance factor. Begin with shoes that cost a couple of hundred dollars and work your way up as you are inspired (See Parisian Gentleman Shoe Selection). If you begin to fall in love with shoes, you can play with wingtip designs to make your foot appear larger or smaller as described here.
2. EMBRACE THE BRACE
Quality braces, also known as suspenders or galluses, will not only keep trousers in place but can also make heavier men look distinguished and eliminate the need for a belt (which visually cuts the body in half).
Even with casual wear, braces with a good sports jacket can create a warm and wonderful vibe. Notice clip-ons are OK these days if you find buttoned braces to be uncomfortable. We especially love old-fashioned fish tail trousers with braces.
If you must use a belt instead of braces, make sure the belt is not noticeably thick and that the belt matches the color of your trousers, so as to blend and preserve the look of an elongated silhouette. Of course, never wear braces and a belt at the same time.
3. CHOOSE JACKETS AND SPORTS COATS THAT LOOK (AS IF THEY COULD BE) TAILORED
When choosing a jacket or suit coat for the heavier set gentleman, consider:
A. While not all of us can afford bespoke or custom-made clothing, we can learn from a Savile Row tailor in regard to how a suit coat or sports jacket should “hang” from the abdomen of a heavier person.
For the geeks out there, here’s a technical excerpt from Richard James of Savile Row on how the jacket should hang from the front:
“[Notice] an explanatorily named fish cut sketched on the pattern (above) and made in the canvas (below) of a nice two-piece navy twill suit. A good cutter will put a fish cut into the front, tummy region of a canvas (which helps structure and give overall definition to a suit) when he needs to create more shape and mould the cloth around the middle region of a portlier, more rotund gentleman. It works to ensure that the suit coat (jacket) really fits and doesn’t hang from the stomach like a skirt. One of the more advanced, rather tricky techniques of bespoke Savile Row tailoring.” (See text and illustrations here via Richard James).
The point is to pay attention to how your suit coat hangs beneath your abdomen. While ready-to-wear larger jackets aren’t held to the same standard as a handmade garment, the way the coat hangs from the mid-section can vary from brand to brand. Bottom line: you don’t want your sports jacket or suit coat to hang like a skirt beneath your belly, so a little attention to the matter can make the strong difference.
continue